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Found 17 results

  1. Hi There all, Can anyone advise on the removal of the water pump on a 1925 Buick Standard? I think this problem would be the same for all models with the delco starter/generator and distributor at the rear, which is driven by a single shaft from the timing/crank gears at the front. I have read the work shop manual and it does not provide much clear direction. After following it to the letter, I cannot slide the shaft forward enough to get it clear of the distributor. I think I might have to get the front timing cover off move the shaft far enough forward to pull it clear of the distributor??? Then out through the back once it is clear of the dissy?? Does anyone have any recollection or a better quality workshop manual? Thanks very much Ben
  2. I have been searching for the brass bowl to fit my 1925 Master Marvel Carburetor. a 1925 Standard Marvel carburetor was recently up for sale on e-bay, and after comparing photos, I could see the brass bowl casting number 65-10 was common to both Master and Standards. This is not obvious in the Buick parts book because it only lists the complete Bowl Assembly 65-524 Standard, & 65-525 Master. The only Master/Standard difference in the 65- bowl components listed is the High Speed Jet 49-, and the Air vent 111-. So I made the gamble and purchased the e-bay Standard carb, and after it arrived, disassembled the brass bowl. I measured the pin hole at the tip of the High Speed jet by finding a pin that would just fit into the hole, and that was a .040 dia drill bit. It stands to reason the High Speed Jet should be a larger diameter for the Master, and my guess is a simple math ratio of the Master/Standard area of the carb intake should equal the Master/Standard area of the high speed jet. Measure the Carb intake diameter of the Master & Standard, calculate ratio for area of the openings, and it should be pretty close to the actual. Then drill the pin hole out to the larger calculated diameter. The 111- Air valve appears to have been a small spring and a leather flexible seal, both are missing, but should be easy to make. There should be a needle valve that fits into the hole on the top surface of the bowl, but is missing. this is my theory for the ratios of air intake and high speed jets should be related: I just forgot to measure the intake openings, so didn't include them. this is the now near complete 1925 master carb-heat riser assembly the parts book page Kevin BCA # 47712
  3. My T has been fully restored, including new tires and upholstery, but has been sitting in my parent's garage undriven for about 14 years. I just got an offer for $30,000. Is this a good offer? If I were to publicly offer it for sale is there a good chance I could get more? Thanks for your insights. Len
  4. I am looking for a good Gas Tank for my 11A . André
  5. [b]*** CAR HAS BEEN SOLD *** For Sale: 1925 Dodge Brothers Touring car. This is a project car with an older partial restoration. The engine was tuned and was running nicely in 1987 and again in 2007 but has not run since then. I inherited this car from my father who bought it out of a junk yard in 1975. I planned to finish it but finally realize it requires more time than I have available. As far as I know it is a complete car; if there are any missing parts they are minor ones. Please see the photos for details; they do not show all of the parts but hopefully give you an idea of the car’s condition. There are many new parts (door handles, hub caps, step plates, front and rear floor boards, horn motor, running boards, battery box, window glass, and instrument gauge faces), some of which were bought from Romar and some of which were made by my father. Also included are many extra parts: one front and one rear leaf spring, one starter/generator, one radiator and shell, one engine hood, one front door, one speedometer, three original hub caps, about 10 extra wheel nuts, the original front window glass, a gas tank, a transmission shifter assembly and a few other random parts. There is also a hardcover Dodge Brothers Master Parts List reprint from 1927 that has several photos to help identify parts. Major things left to be done on the car include: restore upholstery and top, paint and attach front fenders, paint and assemble doors, re-paint body and dashboard, restore engine hood, re-plate wheel nuts, re-paint and attach gas tank, paint and assemble spare wheel. $2700 for everything. Car is located in a NW suburb of Minneapolis, MN. Post questions to this ad or call my cell: 763-568-8836. Additional photos available. </SPAN>
  6. Hi, I want to renew my disc clutch but I don't know the thickness of the material. Is there anyone who can help me. It's for a Hupmobile type R 1925 Thanks, Rob
  7. A few years ago I found this hood ornament in a junk yard. I was hoping someone could tell me more about it. The date of manufacture on the bottom says 1925. As I don't have a Packard, I might be willing to sell it if someone is interested along with a few other hood ornaments in my collection. If you have any information or have an interest in this item, please respond to this thread, or give me a call at (410) 635-6019 and ask for Howard. Thanks.
  8. Rebuilding my transmission and I am looking for either a whole transmission or gears. I have 1 gear that is worn pretty bad where it meshes Thanks Dean Fink
  9. Hello. I'm new on this forum, and figured it would be a good place to ask for any hints or tips on selling my 1925 Ahrens-Fox pumper. As of right now I have put an ad out on Craigslist, but I don't know if that'll be enough and was wondering if there's any place else that I should list it. This NS-4 was originally made for the Nashua, NH fire dept. and had a unique color scheme for that time period. I have had the thing completely restored to factory condition. It was even used as a template for die cast models because of its accuracy and attention to detail. All of the wear items are new and the crank shaft and rod bearings are set to the factory tolerances. For those interested in pictures or seeing the ad, I'll post the link below. Ahrens-Fox NS-4 Reg. 1633
  10. 1924 Ford Model-T, these were known as "doctor's coupes", black with grey upholstery, 3000 miles on original rebuilt engine, hydraulic brakes added to rear, so the brakes perform like today's cars. This T has a original engine that was rebuilt to modern standards with a heavy crank shaft, it has an original B/W overdrive from the 20's that was used on many old cars, and disk brakes were added on the rear instead of the inside the transmission band that was stock. The T-Model has been converted to 12 volts with electronic ignition inside the distributor. (If someone wanted to go back to the old wiring methods, I have several coils that I can include with the car.) This 1924 Model T doctors coupe is in great shape and has been touring three tours a year for the past ten years without a breakdown. It has a Model A crank and balanced engine. It is a very dependable car to drive. $10,900. 336-765-8312. email: wwhitfield@triad.rr.com This Model-T is located in Okeechobee, Florida, delivery assistance available world wide.
  11. Hello all, I found this website by chance doing a Google search. I am trying to identify my great grandmother's electric car from a family picture dated 1925 (perhaps earlier). I have no idea how old the car was at the time. My great grandmother, Hester L. Coontz (nee Hanrahan) was born about 1893 and we believe this was taken on 145th Street in Toledo, Ohio. I've just purchased an all electric Nissan LEAF a few weeks ago, so I guess electrics run in my family! I wanted to post an introduction post to the www.mynissanleaf.com forum with the attached pic, but I wanted to be able to identify the make/model/year of the car first. I would be much obliged for any information you could offer! Cheers and Happy New Year, Jamie San Diego, CA
  12. This car has been completely restored. Price is $14,500. For complete details and additional photos, go to www.oldcars.fotki.com Worldwide delivery is available.
  13. This car has been completely restored. Worldwide delivery is available.
  14. Does anyone have a windshield wiper vacuum switch that mounts on the dash to the lower left of the steering column? Is this part interchangeable with other GM makes? I can't find a part number or description in factory parts books or other literature. I just know there is an empty hole on the dash! It had to be pot metal, so no surprise this is a tough one to find. TX for any assist. Steve Snell egawai@aol.com AACA 822695 BCA 20766
  15. Wanted: 1925 Virginia License Plates. Restorable - Single or pair. I am not a reseller - I need these for my Model T Touring. Please email photos & price. Thank you. Jeff Hipp jeff@newcityexperience.com Christiansburg, VA USA
  16. Hello, I am looking for a picture/explanation of the folding seat assembly in a 7-passenger 1925 Stutz Touring or similar vehicle. If anyone has a picture, knows about it, or knows where to find any information, any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks - Stefan