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Found 378 results

  1. Hey I new to the Buick Forum. I have a 1964 Buick Rivera with a 425 nailhead and want to upgrade my alternator, im almost done with my rebuild! My questions is what brand and amp settings do you recommend for an alternator? I plan on putting in a nice sound system with subs later. Would 120-140 amps be enough or go higher? Also any places you might recommend to order some upgraded battery cables thicker gauge? thank you, Gustavo 1964 Buick Riviera 425 Nailhead
  2. *Misspelled "regulations"... We are currently fixing up a 1973 Buick. Interior all orginal and like new. Carpet is a bit faded between driver and passenger in the front and the bench seat has a rip where the driver sits. Other than that, looks like it did in 1973. Even the AM radio still works...The exterior is a whole new story. Quarters need replaced and a few other things. Anyway...It has "3-point" seat belts that are two separate belts in the front seats. The shoulder harness latches to the lap belt buckle. I know alot of classic cars feature a plain lap belt. (Sorry, not sure what this belt system is called exactly) Is it legal to take the shoulder harness off? It only took one bolt to take off from the inner roof of the car. Any opinions are welcomed! Also, I plan on being a active member here. I may be young, but I looove classic cars!
  3. Hi I am new to this club and I am looking for old dealership information. I've been looking for someone who has or knows where to find any dealership license plates from the late 80s that were used to display cars on their lot. Have you ever heard of Kutner Buick located in Castor Ave and Cottman Ave in Phila, Pa? Here's something I saved when my grandpa bought the car new at the now CLOSED dealership. This might give you a better perspective of what the place was.
  4. Historically, Buick was GM's "discreet Cadillac"--a high-end car without the high-end ostentation. For many years, Buicks were known as "doctors' cars" for just that reason. Ownership indicated you had money, but weren't looking to flaunt it. Over the years, Buick produced some of the most stylistically daring and physically impressive machines ever to come out of Detroit--or anywhere else. Of those notable machines, is the Estate wagon or Electra Estate wagon. These wagons served families across America from 1980-1990. Well it's time to pack up the kids and head out on a road trip! You and your family can relive those childhood memories while at the same time, providing your children with memories of their own. And what better way to do it, than in this 1990 Buick Estate Wagon. This 1990 Buick Estate Wagon was the last of its kind. The body style that had been popular for so many years was discontinued. Now these wagons have reached collector car status as many people look for these models once again. This particular car was ordered with ALL the bells and whistles. It has been well-maintained over the past 22 years. This is an ultra low mile original car in a model year some say is the last of the great Buicks. Here is the list of specification: - 1990 Buick Estate Wagon - 39,000 original miles - 307ci V8 - 4 speed automatic transmission - Dark Sapphire Blue - Woodgrain panels - Plush tan leather seats - Power steering - Power brakes - Power windows - Power locks - Power antenna - Power driver seat with manual recliner - Power passenger seat with power recliner - Power rear window - Power mirrors - Tilt steering wheel - AM/FM Stereo with cassette player - Electronic Touch Climate Control Heat/Air Conditioning - Twilight Sentinel - Lamp monitors - Cornering lamps - Two-way tailgate - Front seat reading lamps - Rear window defroster - Cruise control - Third seat - Luggage rack - Aluminum wheels with Buick center caps - Original owner's manual All the glass is nice and clear. Rides on a nice set of Uniroyal Tiger Paw tires. No exhaust leaks of any kind. The car is completely original down to the floor mats. The wood paneling is in great condition. Not faded like so many wagons of this era. The paint has a brilliant shine. The interior is free of tears. The headliner is not sagging. And the carpet shows very little wear. The 307ci V8 starts and runs well. The transmission shifts smooth. I can find no leaks from either. All of the options are in good working order. The car is truly a time capsule. Whether you are someone looking for a great, low-mileage driver or a collector looking for the last of a great model, I think you will find this car will easily meet your needs. Please email with any questions you may have. I plan on taking many more detailed photos today. To view larger versions of the photos, click on the link below. 1990 Buick Estate wagon - a set on Flickr When it opens, click on the photos. When the photo opens, click on the magnifying glass with the (+) sign in the top right corner. This will allow you to view the larger versions of the photos. The price is negotiable. Don't be afraid to make an offer. Not interested in any trades.
  5. HI all, This is the ongoing restoration of my 58 Buick Century Riviera in Sri Lanka. It is the only such car known to be in Sri Lanka. If this car was in USA, it would be considered a scrap car. Not even a parts car. However, we are not allowed to import any vehicle over 2 years old into Sri Lanka, so importing a classic is not possible. All we can do, is restore the cars already existing in Sri Lanka, no matter how bad they are and what it costs. Hope you folks find the restoration interesting. Looking forward to comments.
  6. Hi There all, Can anyone advise on the removal of the water pump on a 1925 Buick Standard? I think this problem would be the same for all models with the delco starter/generator and distributor at the rear, which is driven by a single shaft from the timing/crank gears at the front. I have read the work shop manual and it does not provide much clear direction. After following it to the letter, I cannot slide the shaft forward enough to get it clear of the distributor. I think I might have to get the front timing cover off move the shaft far enough forward to pull it clear of the distributor??? Then out through the back once it is clear of the dissy?? Does anyone have any recollection or a better quality workshop manual? Thanks very much Ben
  7. Y'all probably remember this one from the buy & sell forum. I said it would take a while, but it's finally arrived, after a roll-back, an 18-wheeler, and another roll-back. Now safely tucked away inside my garage. Roy's description was accurate but for one thing - while it was up on the transporter I looked underneath, and it looked even better than I expected. Darned phone was re-booting at that moment, so no photos. A couple of hornet's nests were found (and I don't mean just a figure of speech - real hornets). For now, my kids have named this one "Mater" for the patina. My daughter even asked, where's the tow hook? It's going to be a while before I can really get into this, but the parking brake works (more or less), and I think the movements on/off the transports loosened up the wheels some, because my wife and I pushed it into the garage pretty easily (for a 3680-pounder). Just to see what happens, I've got it on a 6v trickle charger right now, though I don't expect much. The interstate trucker got it to about here or maybe a little lower, got inside, popped it loose, let it roll back, stuck the parking brake, and it stopped in a parking spot, just like I asked. I didn't know how long it would need to be there, so I wanted it "casually" hanging out in a real parking spot. I'm not really even sure how he popped it loose - maybe set the parking brake, released the last chain, and released the brake? Anyway, he judged the stopping power of the brake pretty much right on. This guy was telling me about a '57 Buick wagon he used to own. He knew pretty well what he was carrying here. Valve cover cap is gone in this photo, but I found it later down the right side of the engine. Yes, that radiator hose is funky. Looking at photos of other cars, this isn't an original radiator - maybe not even Buick. Oh, and the engine is all black, so that might not be original either. Where's the engine number?
  8. Hello! I am needing a good quality right side gravel guard for a 1957 Buick Special. Im pretty sure it's called the gravel guard, but just incase im wrong, it's the chrome piece that goes directly in front of the rear bumper end. I mainly need the passanger side, but if you have both, please do not hesitate to let me know! thank you, Brandon.
  9. I bought a 47 Super Eight and the VIN on the registration and insurance paperwork going back almost 20 years does not match the plate on the passenger side under the hood over the body type plate. I can't find any other VIN on the car. I don't want to return this to the seller... Love the car, but worry about the legality. Any idea exactly where the other VIN's may be hiding?
  10. I have a lot of Buick 8-57 parts here's a list of what I have price is negotiable and I can ship globally! 2 Front fenders 3 Rear fenders Bell Housing Gas and Brake Pedal I will upload pictures ASAP
  11. Hello, Is this a 1927 or 1928 buick? Master Six or what type? 95% sure that is a 1928 New Brunswick license plate. The bumper has 3 sections, which I think is a big key to what year or type it is? Thank you for any help! Photo below:
  12. (Hey, the new Forum! Looks good – thank you!) Well, I mentioned that I liked exterior paint color and interior color information. Allow me to bore you…. Buick records indicate that seven 1988 Reattas left Lansing with order code 14 Black Metallic paint (GM paint code WA8767).
  13. ATTACH=CONFIG]306778[/ATTACH]Currently working on restoring a 1928 Buick in my high school auto maintenance class. We recently realized we were missing our front wheel bearing cone. We are having lots of trouble finding this part locally, so any help would be greatly appreciated.
  14. Currently working on restoring a 1928 Buick model 115 in my high school auto maintenance class. We recently realized we were missing our front inner wheel bearing cone. We are having lots of trouble finding this part locally, so any help would be greatly appreciated. On another thread, we have been told that a 1928 Oakland 6 & 212 used the same bearing. Luckily this widens the search a bit, and once again, any help would be greatly appreciated! Attached is an image of the one cone we currently have.
  15. Hello, I am in the process of rebuilding my Dynaflow transmission off my 1957 Buick Special. I have bought a complete rebuild kit, (with all clutches and plates, etc), but I have run into some other complications and am in need of some other parts that a rebuild kit does not come with. I know that a lot, (if not all), of these parts can be found on various websites, but I wanted to post an ad here just in case anybody has any spare parts laying around. Here is my list of needed parts: 1. Hi-low Brake Drum (part # 1388730) 2. Reverse Drum and Ring Gear (Part # 1354974 ???) 3. Front Band 4. Reverse Band 5. Parking Pawl (JUST the pawl if possible) (the actual piece the gear sits into) The bands I have are worn, so is my Hi-Low Brake Drum, and the reverse ring gear is worn with the teeth all messed up. The Parking Pawl must have been out of adjustment for so long, because the slot where the gear sits into is all rounded off. I may be able to fix it, but I thought I should ask anyway. Even if you have just one of these parts, please do not hesitate to let me know. I appreciate your time and I'm hoping someone has these parts! They do not necessarily need to be brand-new... but in good, working shape. Thank you, Brandon T. Missouri.
  16. Hi everyone, I have just purchased a 1926 Buick 2 door and I need all tires and probably tubes. I believe they are 31x5.25 but I haven't gotten the car yet so they may be different. These are the type where the rim comes off of the wooden wheel. Any help or sources would be appreciated. Thanks Bob
  17. Greetings, I am primarily a hot rodder, but I found this and other brass era carburetors and parts in a lot I purchased recently. I like to see things like this make their way to people who are enthusiastic about them, so I have created an account here on AACA to do so. What I have appears to be a complete Schebler Model O Carburetor. As far as I have been able to tell, these were used on 1913 Buick model 30 and 31 Roadsters and Touring cars. It may have also been used earlier. I have seen some indications they were used on models 24 & 25 with the model 165 4cyl. engine as well. EDIT: my asking price is $175.00 Or Best Offer. http://www.ebay.com/itm/261822335074
  18. I have recently got my 1923-4-39 running and on the road (see previous posts and video) and have come across an issue that i'd like the clubs advice on. my Buick has been running well for the past few months, I run her every weekend with many smiles and thumbs up as I drive down PCH. Yesterday, when I fired her up she ran well for about 2 minutes, then sputtered down to running on 3 cylindres. I let her sit for a few minutes, fired her up again, and the same thing happened. I continued this cycle all day- hoping that she would somehow "fix herself". Well she hasn't. It is my #2 cylinder each time- runs smooth, craps out after about 2 minutes, let her sit fires up smooth- craps out to 3 cylinders. I am by no means a mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, a tinkerer at best. Changed the #2 plug, changed the #2 wires. What do you think it is, and where should I start? I'll keep the forum updated.
  19. 1st set contains Eight (8), AC spark plugs. (R46TSX) Will sell all for $25, plus shipping. 2nd set contains Eight (8), AC 44S spark plugs (5612386) Will sell all for $25, plus shipping. 3rd set contains three boxes with Eight (8) plugs each, AC 44 spark plugs (1559492). Will sell each box for $25, plus shipping. If you want all three boxes you can make an offer. Contact Info: pibrew@outlook.com - PayPal Only
  20. Im turning 14 in a few days and my dad is getting me a free 79 Buick I want to put a cool spoiler on it. Can anyone help?
  21. As the restoration project drags along, I just want to say that trying to bolt the flywheel and the bellhousing to the engine after the crankshaft is already in the block is nearly impossible. Although I prevailed with a thin long box wrench and a bit of acrobatics to tighten the bellhousing bolts behind the flywheel a 1/16 of a turn at a time, I hope no one has ever had to feel their patience wear thin like I did. End of rant.
  22. Anyone have any luck finding plugs for the drivers side power window master switch? Any models that are interchangeable? Any help would be appreciated. My plug is hot glued together and some of the wire connectors are broken. I'm not sure I can salvage it.
  23. Hello, Im not in a huge hurry for these parts, but I wanted to put an ad out anyway. I am needing the wiper button and lever that goes into the wiper bezel for a 1957 Buick. Thank you for your time! -Brandon.
  24. Hello! Ive been posting a couple pages already for things im looking for on my Buick. Sorry if it seems like Im spamming! However, im looking for a few parts, id greatly appreciate it if anyone has them. 1. Wiper Bezel and switch 2. Outside door handles (its a 4 door HT) 3. Front passanger window glass/ frame 4. Inner taillight bezels 5. Rear bumper (ends or center) I am also looking for a parts manual Thank you again! Brandon
  25. I have been searching for the brass bowl to fit my 1925 Master Marvel Carburetor. a 1925 Standard Marvel carburetor was recently up for sale on e-bay, and after comparing photos, I could see the brass bowl casting number 65-10 was common to both Master and Standards. This is not obvious in the Buick parts book because it only lists the complete Bowl Assembly 65-524 Standard, & 65-525 Master. The only Master/Standard difference in the 65- bowl components listed is the High Speed Jet 49-, and the Air vent 111-. So I made the gamble and purchased the e-bay Standard carb, and after it arrived, disassembled the brass bowl. I measured the pin hole at the tip of the High Speed jet by finding a pin that would just fit into the hole, and that was a .040 dia drill bit. It stands to reason the High Speed Jet should be a larger diameter for the Master, and my guess is a simple math ratio of the Master/Standard area of the carb intake should equal the Master/Standard area of the high speed jet. Measure the Carb intake diameter of the Master & Standard, calculate ratio for area of the openings, and it should be pretty close to the actual. Then drill the pin hole out to the larger calculated diameter. The 111- Air valve appears to have been a small spring and a leather flexible seal, both are missing, but should be easy to make. There should be a needle valve that fits into the hole on the top surface of the bowl, but is missing. this is my theory for the ratios of air intake and high speed jets should be related: I just forgot to measure the intake openings, so didn't include them. this is the now near complete 1925 master carb-heat riser assembly the parts book page Kevin BCA # 47712