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About KEK

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  1. Hi Larry - I searched for vacuum tank rebuilding and found all kinds of information and procedures. I feel I can try and restore my tank rather than send it off. It’s not in that bad of condition. Needs a good cleaning and a few missing parts from what I can tell at this time. Bob makes a good point to be extra careful with the die cast metal pressed in pivot pins. I dont plan to remove them. Getting all the valves to work is probably going to be my greatest challenge. I am pretty sure I figured out why my carburetor was seeing pressure from my electric fuel pump th
  2. Hi Larry - I looked through my parts and I think I might have a nearly complete vacuum canister. I attached some pics. The canister has been repaired on the bottom but otherwise looks acceptable. The float mechanism moves up and down. Comparing the top assembly to the diagram you posted it appears to be missing the ‘Vacuum check valve” and the ‘gas strainer assembly‘. I have the vent tube. Also shown is an “atmospheric check valve’. Looking at the pics can you see anything that is obviously missing? I think I may be better off trying to get this vacuum canister working than f
  3. Hi Larry - Your engine is looking good! What clued me into finding holes in my riser pipe was the low manifold vacuum. You had to prime the car to get it started but it didn’t run smooth. Partly due to the carburetor but mostly because of the holes. After the car was warmed up if you shut it off it wouldn’t start unless primed. I had a spare Master carburetor with the heat housing that I examined and just by chance I could feel very fine corrosion when I stuck my finger inside the exhaust port of the housing and could feel the back side of the riser. With a mirror I could see tiny
  4. Hugh - I installed the round blanking disk inside the end of the small S curved pipe. Your slide shows that you installed the disk inside the housing. The inside diameter of the housing is slightly larger than the inside diameter of the S pipe. That explains why your disk is a little larger diameter than mine. I used high heat JB Weld good for 450 deg and you used extreme high heat good for I think 2500 deg. I should have followed your procedure exactly but I have a drill bit that fit the S pipe and not one that fit the housing. Lesson Learned - always follow Hugh’s directions e
  5. Hugh - I replaced the vertical intake tubing inside the heat riser last year and have good manifold vacuum. The leak I saw was between the carburetor gasket and blanking plate. I could actually see small bubbles so that is why I removed that blanking plate. I am thinking a new gasket might help. I looked at Olsen’s website but they didnt list any gaskets for the standard and I haven’t called them yet to see if they have any. Did you assemble your gasket and blanking plates dry or did you apply a sealer on them? I found the reason I lost my idle. I accidentally ben
  6. It’s in good shape. 1-1/2” long with the correct bulge in the center.
  7. Hi Hugh - You mention in your carburetor rebuild slides that you set the tail clearance between the venturi and air valve less than the recommended specification. The calibration chart from Marvel’s carburetor booklet 87 gives a range from 0.009”- 0.017.” Do you remember what you set your tail clearance at? The reason I am asking is because I recently installed copper blanking gaskets in the heat riser on my standard. When I put it back together the gasket between the carburetor and the heat riser was leaking so I removed that copper blanking gasket. I still have blan
  8. Hugh - The UNI filter sock looks like an easy solution. I am going to order one today. Thanks for the information and the dimensions for the adaptor. What is the hole in the adaptor at the 5 o’clock position for? Is this for the screw to secure it on the carburetor and the hose clamp used just to secure the filter on the adaptor? Mark - Thanks for the spark plug chart - very useful. I see that the Blue Crown 75-com plugs you are using is the equivalent heat range as the AC 77L plugs I am using and they are at the upper end of the heat range as Larry mentioned. I don’t see tha
  9. Larry - It is really neat to see this old advertising. Thanks for sharing. Did you see the H14 spark plug with the primer valve advertised on the last page of the Salt Lake Hardware flier? I have never seen anything like this before but apparently you could add fuel directly to the combustion chamber with this fancy spark plug! I also see that they were selling aftermarket air cleaners for the Buicks. That brings up a question I have been wanting to ask. My engine doesn’t have any air cleaner. It’s a new rebuild engine and I don’t want to damage it by
  10. Larry - My vintage dwell meter has a red clip I attached to the terminal on the distributor and a black clip I connected to ground. No other inputs. I checked the meter as Bloo suggested and found when the points are open the meter reads 27 (should read 0) and when the points are closed it reads 60. So if I normalize the 27 reading to zero then there are 1.8 degrees per meter unit reading (60-27 = 33 and 60/33 = 1.8). The meter reading I got when connected to the distributor and with the engine running was 42. This equates to a dwell of 27 degrees (42-27 = 15 and 15x1
  11. Hi Hugh - Thanks for the measurements on the standard air valve. I will look for a standard valve with those dimensions. I could try to carefully drill out the center of my valve and increase the depth by the 0.23” which would leave about 0.16” of brass at the end - not a lot. The engine does seem to run okay with the home made air valve sticking past the adjuster spring by about 0.23” so a replacement standard air valve will only return it to original condition and make it easier for someone else to set it in accordance with the shop manual. I have had it out a couple times for a
  12. Hi Bloo - Thanks for the tip on how to check to see if my dwell meter is operating correctly. I never thought of that; to open the points and see if it is reading 0 and close the points to check that it is reading 60. Great idea. It seems to run well with the high dwell of 40 degs so at this time I don’t think I want to mess with the point gap as difficult as it is to set unless I have to. If the coil charges when the points are closed will too high of a dwell overheat the coil or somehow damage the coil? Ken
  13. Hi everyone - Finally got a dwell reading. I had to return the Cen-Tech meter to HF as it didn’t work. Then borrowed meters from 2 friends and those didn’t work either. Finally sourced a vintage KAL dwell-tach meter model 2020. Geez I guess it was worth it as I finally have a working meter. Here is what I found out; Dwell - 42 degs. Point gap - 0.019” The meter indicated points resistance 1/2 of full scale. Not sure what this means? Timing half way between the 7 deg and the 1-6 line. AC spark plugs C77L (not sure if these are the correct hea
  14. Hugh - Thanks for your explanation and recommendations. That pretty much takes care of my concerns. I am going to leave the oil level in the differential 1-inch below the opening. I saw a small drip out of the drain tube after the car was sitting all night but no oil on the brakes yet. I am going to monitor that wheel for oil leaks but not going to worry about it any more. Ken
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