KEK

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  1. That was my concern as well so I thought I would ask the question. The clutch plates are nearby and it would not be good to sling grease all over the place. But it probably wouldn’t hurt to add a little as Hugh suggests with a toothbrush. I don’t know why my starter assembly gear failed so adding a ‘very little’ amount of grease wouldn’t hurt once I find a replacement. My other thought is perhaps the assembly wasn’t adjusted properly. Does anyone know if these sliding gear assemblies need to be adjusted and if so how do you adjust it.
  2. Hugh - Yes the shaft has the hole and I can grease the zerk and add oil to the cup to lubricate the shaft but should I also apply grease directly on the teeth on the two starter gears? I never received your PM but have a lead on the part. Not sure yet. Ken
  3. Yes I typed zerk but that darn spell check changed it. Same with ‘tease” above when I asked if I should grease my starting gears. LOL.
  4. Does anyone know if I should tease my two starting gears on the sliding assembly? The shop manual under the lubrication. Section says there is a zero fitting. See attached scan. It also says to add about 5 ounces of soft cup oil every 500 miles. The design drawing (see scan drawing) from the manual only shows the oiler which I assume is where the cup oil goes. The drawing doesn’t show a zero fitting so don’t I just apply some grease directly to the starting gears? Ken
  5. Does anyone know if I should tease my two starting gears on the sliding assembly? The shop manual under the lubrication. Section says there is a zero fitting. See attached scan. It also says to add about 5 ounces of soft cup oil every 500 miles. The design drawing (see scan drawing) from the manual only shows the oiler which I assume is where the cup oil goes. The drawing doesn’t show a zero fitting so don’t I just apply some grease directly to the starting gears? Ken
  6. Hi Hugh = The starter generator gears look good and the little bit of the flywheel gears I could see looked fine. I need to do a more careful inspection of the flywheel gears but so far nothing of concern. The fork may have some wear on it but I haven’t removed it to inspect it closely yet. I will place a parts wanted ad in the BCA and look on eBay for a replacement starter sliding gear assembly. Do you have any other ideas where I should look? Thanks Ken
  7. Hi everyone and thanks for all your help, I found the problem. See attached photo. The washer I was calling brass is actually steel and not a washer at all as Hugh mentioned. It was machined as part of the shaft as Kevin points out above and shown with the red arrow. My larger gear is also worn similar to the large gear in the photo above. The sliding shaft was very easy to remove. I just removed the special lock both at the back side and gently tapped it out from the front side. I first tapped it to the back with a small drift. I has to angle it up because there was not a lot of room due to the MG casing. I then put a small socket on the shaft and pried in to the back a little more. Once it was sticking out the back of the housing I was able to just pull it out. I didn’t have to remove the MG or anything else. Looks like I need another clutch. Is that the correct term for this part? Hugh - thank you so much for checking with your friend to see if they have one. Ken
  8. I don’t see any shaft that is aluminum or 3 feet long. Attached is a photo of the cross shaft that is bolted to the bell housing with 5 bolts. It’s about 7 inches long. Used a magnet to test for aluminum but looks like it is all cast
  9. We pulled the cover and found a brass washer on the back side of the fork that is loose preventing the gears from meshing. There is also brass filings in the case. It looks like the purpose of the brass washer is to center the fork on the shaft. Here is a pic.Any ideas on what to do next?
  10. Yes when I switch on the ignition I can hear a clicking sound. So my motor is turning slowly as per No. 1 above. It sounds like it is turning slower and is less noisy than the sound clip in the youtube video you attached above. Then when I push the pedal down the motor quickly spins up. It sounds like a modern starter problem when the Bendix/solenoid is not working properly. The MG just spins very fast but no gears are being meshed.. I have some help this afternoon and we are going to take the plate off and look at the gears. I never mentioned in my earlier post but the started did work for a while and turned the engine just fine. Then all of a sudden it stopped working. On accession when I stepped on the starter pedal the gears would grind a bit. I thought I read somewhere in the Buick Shop manual that if this happens then you need to step on the pedal a little faster which I started to do. Hope I haven’t stripped any flywheel or starter gears. Should find out this afternoon and will let everyone know. Thanks again for you help. Ken
  11. Hi Hugh - Thanks for the photos! Like they say a photo is worth a thousand words. I’ll get someone to help me and take a look at the gears. Hope this can be fixed without taking the MG off. Here is a photo of my car. Not the best but its been sitting for a while. I got the car after my dad passed away and trying to get it running again. Thanks for you suggestion, Ken
  12. Good morning everyone - I have a 1925 Buick standard. When I push the starter pedal it sounds like the starter motor is spinning up but it won’t turn over the engine. I can’t hear any noise that would suggest it is engaging the flywheel. I have the 1925 Buick Shop Manual and it shows a diagram of the motor generator. The back side of the MG shows a one way clutch and some starting gears. Does anyone have any suggestions where I should start my diagnosis? The Shop Manual provides no help. I would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks - Ken
  13. My no1 cylinder is 60 lbs and all the others are 65 lbs. Has only a few hours on it.
  14. Hi everyone - Does anyone khow what the compression should be for a newly rebuilt 1925 Buick standard 6 cylinder engine? Thanks Ken