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KEK

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  1. I need the special spring for the air valve. Ken
  2. Thanks Jon - My misinformation. Still looking for the special spring for the Stromberg on the 1910 Reo. Do you have a spring or carb kit? Thanks, Ken
  3. Hello everyone - I am helping a friend get his 1910 Rio running and it has a Stromberg Model B carburetor. It looks like a very simple carb and has an air valve technology like my 1925 Marvel. However, it is missing the special spring for the air valve. My understanding is that some of the early Buicks also used this Stromberg carburetor so I am hoping I can get a lead on where to find the special spring or at least some photos and dimensions so I can match one as close as possible. Attached are a few photos of the carburetor. I also found a reference to this carburetor in a Chanslor & Lyon Motor Supply Catalog. It has a paragraph on how to adjust the carburetor so all I need is the spring. I have a PDF of this old catalog so let me know if you would like a copy and I can post it. Thanks Ken
  4. KEK

    1910 REO

    Hello everyone - i am helping a fried get his 1910 REO running and we need help with adjusting the Stromberg updraft carburetor. Does anyone have any technical literature on this carb? Any advice would be a big help. Thanks, Ken
  5. Roadmaster - I actually followed Hugh’s directions when I did my motoring and starter tests. My description of the process was to simplified and not clear. I am going to put everything back together and repeat the tests using a 12V battery. If I don’t get it it motor then I will do the voltage testing as you suggested. I think the consensus is my coil is good so looking for a ground issue is probably the best place to start. Thanks everyone, Ken
  6. Roadmaster - I don’t have a spare 6V battery so I have been bench testing with short touches of the positive end of a 12V battery using jumper cables. I hate to leave a 12v source on the positive lug to do the tests you recommend. Do you think if I hooked up a 6V battery charger on the positive lug it would be enough power to do the ground checks? - Ken
  7. Not a silly question Roadmaster. I am testing the SG on the bench and not in the car so the procedure is different. To test the motoring on the bench you insert a wooden dowel in the opening where the pointed operating rod goes then lift the brushes off the armature and apply voltage. It should motor. Mine does not. To test the starter you remove the wooden dowel and this simulates when you step on the starter pedal then apply voltage and the starter should run. Mine does not. Ground appears to be good, my armature tests okay, and there is continuity between the brushes and armature. The only thing missing is power... Doesn’t this seem to indicate a problem with the field coil?. Ken
  8. Hi Hugh - i didn’t paint the areas that you indicated not to paint in your procedure. I tested the SG on the bench and verified I have ground. When I first tested it to see if it motors, when I touched the positive battery to the terminal, it sparked a little bit. I tried it a few other times but it didn't ever spark again. I don’t think I shorted out anything because I didn’t hold the positive battery on the terminal but for a brief second. I cleaned the brushes and made sure they contact the armature. There is continuity with the brushes and armature. I tested the armature with my growler and its good. The only component I didn’t tested was the field coil. But from what Oldtech is saying it sounds like my field coil is good. Do you know what the ohms reading are on your 25 standard field coils? Thanks, Ken
  9. I have a new sealed bearing on the armature and it turns easy by hand. My field coil doesn’t measure 21k ohms. It measures 1.1 and 4 ohms.
  10. No it doesn’t motor. Everything checks out. The armature is good. Brushes are used but conform to the curve on the armature. New wires. Morgan got 21000 ohms and my coils measured 1.1 ohms. Something is not right...
  11. We are talking about the coil in the starter generator. There are 2 field wires.An upper and and a lower. I measured 4 ohms across these wires with nothing else connected to them. The coil also has two brass connectors. One of these brass connectors is where the large lug that the positive wire from the battery connects. I measured 1.1 ohms across these 2 brass connectors with nothing connected to them. See the attached photo. The field wires are on the left. Thanks Ken
  12. Dang, looks like I need to find a coil. Thanks for the help - Ken
  13. Morgan - i tested the coil from the 1925 standard SG and I also have a spare coil from a 1925 Master that I tested. Results for both coils are very similar. The Ohms between the field wires are 4.0 and 3.7, respectively. The Ohms across the brass tabs are both 1.1. Based on these results do you think both coils are dead? Thanks, Ken
  14. Hi everyone - Does anyone know how to test the coil in the starter generator? I have the SG on the bench and trying to get it to motor. Everything else checks out okay. I have a growler and tested the armature and its good. My brushes are used but they fit the armature and I replace all the wires. The coil is the only component that I don’t know if its okay. Thanks, Ken
  15. Hi Larry - I searched for vacuum tank rebuilding and found all kinds of information and procedures. I feel I can try and restore my tank rather than send it off. It’s not in that bad of condition. Needs a good cleaning and a few missing parts from what I can tell at this time. Bob makes a good point to be extra careful with the die cast metal pressed in pivot pins. I dont plan to remove them. Getting all the valves to work is probably going to be my greatest challenge. I am pretty sure I figured out why my carburetor was seeing pressure from my electric fuel pump that caused my flooding issue. Looking at the diagram of the vacuum canister you posted I noticed on the top assembly there are fittings for a vent tube and a vacuum check valve. My tank has a plug in one of those fittings and a vent tube in the other. I dropped the Carter carburetor that is inside my vacuum canister so the float is a couple inches from the bottom to give a fuel level similar to what is shown in the diagram for the inner tank. I then closed my fuel valve on the bottom of the canister and turned on the electric fuel pump to fill the tank. I then removed the plug from the fitting on top of the tank and found it was under a small amount of pressure. You could hear the air escape. Probably about the 1 psi from the fuel pump. I suspect the Marvel was also seeing about 1 psi causing the flooding. I drove the car around for about 20 minutes and no flooding issue and no gas escaping from the ‘flooder valve’. I thought the tank was being vented because it had the vent tube but either its plugged or not working. I just moved the tube to the other fitting and no more flooding issues. I hope... I am still going to restore the vacuum fuel system but at least now I can drive the car. Well maybe not - when I got back from the test drive my newly professionally rebuild starter generator is making a bad noise. I feel I am in an endless cycle of two steps forward and one back - geez. Thanks for your help in ‘sorting out’ my vacuum canister. Ken
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