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  1. Hi Hugh - That’s awesome! The frame seems to be in pretty good shape, not much rust, and except for the missing transmission and engine is complete. I kept it in case there is anyone doing a restoration that needs a frame. I don’t think any of the parts would fit my 25 roadster so if there is anyone out there doing a restoration and needs a 26 or 27 Master frame let me know. It’s pretty heavy so the shipping costs may not be worth the trouble... Ken
  2. Any idea what body style this would fit on? I have a 25 Buick model 25-24 roadster and the frame is smaller on the roadster so I know it doesn’t fit that. Also my understanding its not for a truck since it has 4 wheel brakes and the trucks only had rear brakes when they stop manufacturing trucks. It’s a large frame and rear end so its HD. Perhaps an ambulance or bus?
  3. Hi everyone - I have an old Buick frame that belonged to my dad that he had for many years but I forgot what he told me the frame was from. I believe it is from the 1920’s but hoping that you can help identify what it is. I have attached a few photos. The well base is 122 inches. The wheels are 21” across and have 12 wooden spokes. There are exterior brakes on all 4 axles. Wooden running boards and a huge differential. The ID tag is still on the frame. See photo. The number is 1506941. Any ideas what this frame is from? Thanks, Ken
  4. I fabricated the 6 brackets for the 2 headlight bezels from your drawings. They don't look original but they work great. Thanks for providing the drawings! I made a paper template with the 10 1/2” diameter radius and cut the pattern out of 0.03” sheet metal. I used a piece of Tygon tubing to provide the “springiness”. Thank you for helping me. I would not have figured this out on my own. Ken
  5. Hugh - I started the car at least a dozen times over the last year and the roller was not a problem. That just happened a couple weeks ago. I drove the car a couple miles to gas it up and during the drive the car died a couple times because I am still having flooding issues so I had to restart it several times to get it back home. I then parked the car and the next time I tried to start it the battery was dead due to the short cause by the arm coming off the insulator during one of the times I had to restart it. I am going to do the test you suggest when I get it back
  6. I found the short. The arm on the upper brush came off the insulated roller. See pic. The spring on the arm held it down tight on the SG on the casting providing the short. I talked to Rex at Precision Power and he has never seen this problem with the brush arm coming off. He also has not had a SG causing the sliding gear mesh problem I am having. However, the brush arm came off for a reason and perhaps there is a timing issue that could be causing the gear mesh. In any case the SG needs to be looked at to figure out why the arm came off. I don't want this to keep happening so I a
  7. I replaced both cables with “00” that is what the shop manual says to use so it should be sufficient size. I’ll have the SG off today and can look it over on the bench. I am pretty certain there is a short that is drawing most of the current away from the starter motor resulting in it turning over slow. Hugh thanks for the explanation of the wiring circuit. That is where I will start looking. Ken
  8. Hugh - I touched the ground cable to the negative battery post and it lit up like a match. So I think it confirms I have a serious short in the SG. No other electrical circuit was connected so the SG was isolated. I am going to pull it out and examine it on the bench. Probably end up sending it off to be rebuilt. I have a non working spare SG of the same model No. 283 for a 1925 standard and also a spare non-working model 268 which is for a Master. Both have pinion gears. The pinion gear on the 283 is the same as the pinion gear that is on the car, i.e. 13 teeth. I
  9. Hi Hugh - I pulled the SG last year to check the pinion gear on the end of the generator and at that time I saw that it had new brushes and new rubber rollers. The 2 wires (from the field coil?) were old so I put some shrink wrap on both of them. I also made sure there was no paint in the area that you mentioned based on some of your photos that you posted at that time. I replaced the SG and it turned over fine but still did not mesh well with the sliding gear. Normally when I park the car I put a battery tender on it but alway disconnected the ground cable until a cou
  10. I replaced the battery cables with “00” gage. I think I have a short in the SG that is drawing a huge load. That explains why my old battery went dead and could not recover. It also explains why the starter was slow with a new battery and cables. I checked the battery after I got the car started and back from a short test drive. It was at 60%. Just the little time the new battery was connected to the SG drained it down so it barely turned over the engine when I started it. So I started looking for a short. I disconnected the wire from the SG to the amp meter. I left the + side of t
  11. I replaced the battery cables, ignition wires and a new battery. Turns over very slow. I never had this problem until last week when the old battery died. The car starts and the amp meter shows the generator is charging. Does it sound like I need to rebuild the SG? Ken
  12. Great input everyone - I will stick with 6v and run heavier wires on the battery and replace the 3 ignition wires. I never would have thought that you would need a 000 gage for the short battery cables. Looks like the old cables are 1 gage. I will use Hugh’s spreadsheet for wire gage for the 3 ignition wires. If this doesn’t do the trick then it sounds like I need to think about pulling the SG and have someone go through it. When I had it out of the car I noticed there were new brushes and rollers so I thought it was rebuilt but maybe not completely. Thanks for all of your help. H
  13. Hi Terry - Good advice to check electrical connections. In doing so I found a couple terminals on the starter-generator that look like they are about to fail so I am going to replace all 3 of these wires. The battery cables are probably ok but they are really old so I am going to make some new ones and replace both battery cables. I found that after charging my battery the SG would motor but it didn’t have enough power to engage the starter. As soon as the sliding gear engaged it stopped turning. I eventually figured out the battery has failed and could not produ
  14. Hi everyone - I finally got around to installing a nitrophyl float in my Marvel carburetor as Hugh recommended (that material is super easy to work with. I had to sand and form it to match the old float). Anyway when I tried to start the car to give it a test drive the motor generator would not motor. I have the 6 v battery on a tender so it seemed the battery was sufficiently charged. A few voltage checks indicate erratic voltage so I put the big charger on it and fully charged the battery. It then motored just fine. That got me to thinking about my problem with chewin
  15. Okay I will do that. Thanks!
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