Oregon Desert model 45

Is there a machined casting inside of the stamped sheetmetal hub that can be removed ? If so, then you should consider replacing it with a machined hub with modern permanently lubricated bearings . Below is photo of the new hub I machined for my Buick and drawing of the machined part. Some of those dimensions may different for 1931, so use this drawing as reference. Kevin

That might be another period replacement 28-29 Ford radiator cap. Thread size is 2-1/4"-18, and measures 2.19 on the inside. Below is a comparison of original Ford nickeled brass cap and a replacement. If your gas filler neck is the same size & pitch, and you decide to use a Ford cap, a vent hole will have to be drilled and baffle plate added. Original Ford A parts are widely available on e-bay, so don't spend too much on one. Kevin

A guy from Portland has been tinkering with his 1972 Datsun homebuilt electric car since 1994, then racing it at the track where it beats the competing car by a large margin. Very impressive how it just leaps away from the starting line and the other car looks like its in slow motion. There are a lot of videos on youtube. search for "Plasmaboy white zombie" and watch a few. here is one of them. This is his website link to the first year version under history tab. http://www.plasmaboyracing.com/history/1994.php

Generator brush mounts. here is one on e-bay labeled for 1935-39 Chevrolet passenger car and truck models.

Phoenix is inside the evacuation area map https://jcgis.maps.arcgis.com/apps/webappviewer/index.html?id=3caa39804db54631a61007180d5ef415 According to local news : https://mailtribune.com/news/top-stories/evacuation-alerts-in-place-for-south-jackson-county "People who have evacuated from the Phoenix and Talent area should not return due to continued fire activity, the emergency center said." I grew up in the area and try to keep an eye on local events.

NOT MINE https://denver.craigslist.org/pts/d/denver-1918-contenetel-4-cylinder-engine/7177685137.html 1918 continental 4 cylinder engine - $175 1918 Continental 4 cylinder engine and transmission. Came from a 1918 Yellow cab taxi. No carburetor or magneto. Turns over with hand crank and has compression.

Bob's Automobilia has them. https://bobsautomobilia.com/engine/ Unidentified timing gears show up on e-bay frequently for much less, but you have to figure out if they are correct for Buick Master.

NOT MINE https://denver.craigslist.org/pts/d/arvada-1917-grant-six-roadster/7175154273.html 1917 Grant Six Roadster - $7,500 (Arvada) 1917 Grant Six roadster OHV straight 6 for sale. This is a two owner car and has been in the family since 1954. I have almost completed the ground up restoration, but I have lost the interest and motivation to complete it. The car was running and drivable when I started the project and I have all of the original parts to complete it. I have gone through and rebuilt the motor, running gear, wood wheels and have re-installed everything back

Yes it is still available. sorry for the late response. I haven't checked this listing in a while. send me a private message if you are still interested. Kevin

I first tried using a MAPP gas torch to solder but it burned thru the screen. Then soldered the screen to the housing with that big old soldering iron and plumbers acid flux solder paste. A year later when the motor was finally ready to install the oil pump assembly, there were numerous larger holes in the screen which I assumed were the result of acid flux spots that did not get cleaned off. I removed and replaced the screen again using rosin core solder. Kevin

The quickest way to identify a Master from a Standard chassis is to look at the rear wheel hubs. Standard has a pattern of 12 bolts, and Master has 6 acorn nuts. If an engine were present, look for the location of coolant water return. Master has a manifold with 3 separate tubes exiting from top of the head, and Standard has a single tube at the front of the head. Very few parts interchange between Master and Standard. You don't want to end up with a garage full of heavy parts that won't fit your car. Also any listing with "NOT MINE" means I am not the owner and have no

Those are Standard rims which are 3-3/4" wide, and you have a Master which requires 4-1/2" wide rims. These will fit over a Master rim but will always be too loose and unsafe to drive on. They work ok for just holding up the car stationary in the garage, which is what I have been using them for because I am still looking for Master rims. Very few parts will interchange between Standard and Master models. Kevin

To remove rear wheels on a Master model, unscrew the 6 acorn nuts on the driving hub and pull out the axle shaft with hub attached. Now the large nut (2-1/2") holding the wheel on the axle tube will be visible. Bend back the nut retaining tabs and unscrew the nut. Left side has left hand thread. The wheel has a large bearing which might be tight on the axle tube.

One of the San Diego cars is listed on craigslist. 7 passenger touring, so its big ! https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/cto/d/chula-vista-1924-pierce-arrow/7166387672.html 1924 Pierce Arrow - $39000 (Coronado, CA)

Top rests are visible in one of the photos, so this must be the convertible coupe, not the sport coupe version. The top mechanism might be in that pile of metal parts on the driver seat area.