Oregon Desert model 45

NOT MINE https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/cto/d/greensburg-1920-buick-k45-touring-car/6789502688.html 1920 Buick K45 $1500

NOT MINE Studebaker touring project - $1700 (nr Lebanon, Or) https://portland.craigslist.org/clc/cto/d/lebanon-1927-studebaker-touring-project/6787312840.html (541) 409-5566

This car was listed on bringatrailer.com: Sold For $45,500 On 10/17/18 there are a lot more photos of the car on this site too. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1936-chrysler-airstream/

NOT MINE BARN FRESH 1913 REO ROADSTER UN RESTORED RUNS AND DRIVES - $22500 (Snohomish) https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/d/barn-fresh-1913-reo-roadster-un/6776787101.html This is an original barn fresh car and was placed in storage in the early 20's, then in 1941 it was painted and some mechanical work done I have the original receipt for this work. Then back in storage until 2013. It was removed and made to run and drive. The main and rod bearings rebabbited, rings were replaced with new and valves were ground. The motor starts with ease and runs along very well. Lot's of power. The multiple disc clutch works well does not slip and the transmission shifts very easy. The brakes do a very good job of stopping the car. The radiator does an excellent job of cooling and has never overheated when we toured the Reo. It drives easy and runs well at higher speed. We have toured this car over the years and it has never left us on the side of the road. A newer magneto has been fitted and the original ignition system comes with the car. This car has its original electric starter which works as it should, its amazing how quickly it starts. Maybe 2 rotations and its running. We replaced the tires several years ago and all hold air and have good tread. There is a Klaxon electric horn that works well. The car has a speedometer (no cable or drive)and a Reo script clock. Also included is a working Reo moto meter. Original top is tattered but complete or good for patterns, top bows are in very good shape and top goes up and down easily. The original leather upholstery is solid but shows some signs of wear. It appears that the body was repainted in 1941 I have the original receipt of that work. This is a fun car to tour in with plenty of horse power to move it down the road. Included with the purchase is a 2nd motor, mostly complete with a rod out the side of #3 cylinder. A spare transmission, a spare clutch plus some extra misc spare parts. This car is titled and licensed with a genuine Yellowstone Park plate registered to the car. This appears to be a Yellowstone tribute car. The only reason for the sale is that I am now 75 years old and starting to downsize my collection. Sorry to let it go but you can't keep them forever Any questions don't hesitate to ask. Stop by and take a test drive hear it run. It is located in western Washington just north of Seattle.

NOT MINE. HEAD HAS PORTS FOR COOLING TUBE, SO THIS IS FOR MASTER 1928 Buick engine parts - $150 https://pueblo.craigslist.org/pts/d/1928-buick-engine-parts/6774349953.html I have a few parts from a 1928 buick engine. Please look at pictures there is the head , camshaft , exhaust manifold , starter and a few other items. Please contact through craigslist.

NOT MINE 1917 Overland $3800 https://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/d/1917-overland/6776048073.html

Here is a pickup conversion made from a 1929 Touring car, plus photo of another built for Forestry Department https://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/cto/d/1929-buick-biltmore-hotel-la-depot/6773707047.html

The rear axle is now attached, making it one step closer to having it ready for Mark's ride ! First photo is using the come-along to pull the axle forward and mate the driveshaft to universal joint. Before installing axle there was a small hickup getting the universal joint installed. It fit real tight over the transmission output shaft, so had to use the big nut to finish seating it home, and then it was bound up and would not turn. Apparently the speedo helical gear behind the universal would not go past the geared speedo output shaft. I had to use a puller to back the universal out a little, then remove the speedo output shaft, seat the universal, and install the speedo shaft afterwards. Then everything turned freely like it should. Kevin

NOT MINE $700 https://medford.craigslist.org/pts/d/old-20s-rod-body-yard-art/6770455315.html

Pedals and transmission top were all off. I should have used the spreader bar so it would hang level. Most of the transmission weight was biased toward the back, so I had to lift it up, then turn around and pump the hydraulic ram, or twist the handle to lower it while I was standing between the transmission and frame member. It took a lot of wiggling side to side, up & down to get the input shaft all the way thru the spider and engaged in the crank pilot hole. Was I supposed to leave the 3 bolts compressing the clutch until after the transmission was mounted ? The access hole is certainly big enough to get hands and end wrench back inside. Kevin

NOT MINE https://daytona.craigslist.org/cto/d/1917-buick/6754984466.html 1917 Buick - $8000 (Daytona Beach) Barn Find survivor. Second owner, runs and drives, no wood rot or rust. Clean Florida title

I made a clutch pilot tool from a leftover piece of round stock that was already at Ø .836 diameter, which fit the clutch spider, then turned the end down to Ø .750. Using Hugh's tip for compressing the clutch plate with (3) 5/16 bolts, the clutch was pretty easy to mount on the flywheel and line up with the alignment pin. Now begins the fun part. I assembled the engine hoist underneath the chassis and extending up thru the frame behind the center crossmember then lifted the transmission. The input shaft would not start into the clutch because the battery box interfered with the transmission bell. I hooked a come-along on the battery box and pulled it back about 1/2" to get clearance. Now the input shaft would start into the clutch, but it still took a lot of effort to get transmission fully lined up and get it seated home. I am not sure if the small amount of slop in the alignment pin allowed something to be misaligned, or if it's just a difficult task. I would hate to do this from underneath the car. Kevin

what make is this approx. 1930 roadster body advertised in a craigslist ad ? the extra quarter panels look about right for Buick

Here are some of the latest wood working projects I have tackled on the 25-45: In the first photo, the left side body contour front to back is slightly crooked in the center pillar area, while the right side, second photo, has a nice smooth contour. I was able to improve the left side by making a new wood piece for the top of the center pillar. The seat back wooden corners have a slight helical shape where they mount to a metal strap which was formed by twisting a piece of flat bar. I have managed to copy the old weathered wooden corner piece in the third photo, which I believe to be the only original wood piece from this car. Fourth photo shows the assembled seat back rail with corner pieces. This wood is not just a tack rail, but along with the sheetmetal corners it acts as center body stiffener that keeps the body from wiggling when the doors are slammed shut. The front door levelers had been dragging on the center pillar jamb area, and after looking at the door latch alignment, I realized the door jamb could be trimmed back 1/8" to provide enough clearance between door leveler and the pillar. Trimming the door jamb first requires the use of a router template to cut the curve in up/down direction, then run thru the tablesaw with blade tipped 7 degrees to match the bent angle of the latch , and finally some hand planing to smooth out any mismatches. There is a tablesaw blade burn mark visible right around the latch in the last photo. I am still trying to think of a repeatable way to cut the 7 degree surface using the router. Kevin

My 1925 Buick was found out in the sagebrush some where in the vicinity of Lakeview OR by a hunting party. Not many good reasons to drive a car off road and out into sage desert except for hunting or joy riding, maybe a little of each. The car was probably 10-15 years old at the time based on door threshold wear, not worth much at the time, so would have been a good vehicle to take on such an adventure. Perhaps another hunter or cowboy found the car and salvaged the running gear and all the shiny parts in later years. Kevin