Oregon Desert model 45

1924 & 1925 Master brush adjustment can be made by spinning the linkage push rod while the linkage assembly is removed from the motor. This will allow for correct sequence of Overrunning clutch engagement to flywheel teeth just as the starter brush drops. Push rod is fully unscrewed exposing the threads in second photo below Kevin

another one in CA https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/d/clayton-pontiac-1933/6931510045.html Pontiac 1933 - $13500 (concord / pleasant hill / Martinez)

here is one in Lancaster PA https://delaware.craigslist.org/cto/d/lancaster-1934-pontiac-straight-8-sedan/6936130232.html 1934 Pontiac touring sedan all original with 74,000 original miles in excellent condition runs and drives Second owner since 1998 asking $15,000 or best offer will consider a trade call for more info at show contact info serious inquiries only

Alex Your Buick appears to be a 1924 model 44 Roadster, probably a 1970's era restoration based on the color scheme. The photos you attached of missing parts are correct, but it's the oil pan (not the crankcase) and oil pump. Also the distributer has broken off, leaving the bottom stem stuck inside the Starter Generator end casting, circled in below photo. The water pump might also have some rust thru areas. The oil pan was probably removed to investigate something, (low oil pressure, engine noises, or ?) so you should perform thorough check of bearing clearances, clean out oil passages, clean roller lifters, check timing gears. Old oil can harden and plug up the pressure oil feed system. Now we can narrow down the years of interchangeable parts. Oil pan: 1924-1925 Master. I do not know if 1926 will interchange. Oil Pump: 1924-1928 Master according to parts book. Distributer: 1922-1925 6 cylinder models. 1925 distributers were made from aluminum which often cracked, swelled and broke apart. Complete motors do occasionally come up for sale on this site, and tips for working on these parts can be found on Buick - Pre War Technical section. There are several of us that have recently completed engine work on 1925 Buicks and have posted a lot of helpful information that should help you get started. Kevin

NOT MINE https://cleveland.craigslist.org/cto/d/painesville-1927-chrysler-roadster/6927820921.html 1927 Chrysler roadster - $6000 (Painesville) Selling 1927 Chrysler 70 series roadster. This is a project car that needs finishing. Body work done. Took car in on trade, don't know much about it. Have top bows, windshield, and bumpers. New wood in rumble seat area. New tires. Car does not run. Oklahoma notarized title. The body alone is worth the asking price.

saw this interesting dash and upper cowl on craigslist. what year / make of car is it from ?

NOT MINE https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/pts/d/norco-buick-parts-hot-rod-rat/6933269805.html Late 1920's Buick 6 cyl engine and transmission. Grill shell and radiator and more.. call for questions 76o-662-188one JIM.

I think you should have masked off the spokes where they meet at the hub before painting. When these wood wheels were first made, the spokes were dry assembled together and pressed into the rim, then a hole bored thru the center to fit the hub with little or no clearance. This allows the weight of the car to be transferred from the hub thru the end of spoke and down to the rim. Applying primer and paint could add maybe .005 thickness. Since spokes are assembled together into a ring, multiply 12 spokes x 2 faces each x .005 resulting in .120 growth of the circumference of the bore. Divide by 3.14 to get approx .040 growth in the bore diameter. This means you would have a very difficult time getting the bolt holes to line up when you reassemble the wheel, and since the center bore no longer makes contact with the hub, the car weight will be transferred to the bolts which will result in wheel failure when you are driving the car ! This would be a good time to get some paint stripper, a sharp scraper, and remove all the paint where the spokes meet at the hub. I have remnants of wood spokes that were protected behind the hub, so added photos showing how paint applied to spoke contact surfaces will affect the bore size. This is exaggerated of course.

NOT MINE https://stlouis.craigslist.org/ctd/d/quincy-1930-chrysler-imperial-ds-rs/6913890726.html 1930 Chrysler Imperial DS/RS Roadster - $75000 (Quincy, IL) Extremely rare 1930 Chrysler Imperial Dual Sidemount/Rumble Seat Roadster-One of only 142 produced!!! Totally super straight and rock solid body. This car is currently in the process of a complete restoration due to the fading and chipping of the paint. Restoration has ceased due to the restoration shop owner retiring. This is an original Oregon car that has never had any rust issues. She has the optional rumble seat door. Thus far the car has been re-painted in the original color, the engine and trans have been rebuilt and most of the chrome has been re-plated to like showroom new. Additional photos will be available soon and will sent upon request.

NOT MINE https://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/d/phoenix-classic-1928-chrysler-imperial/6921200232.html Classic 1928 Chrysler Imperial 80 L Sport Roadster - $52500 (Phoenix Beautifully restored Classic 1928 Chrysler Imperial 80L Sport Roadster. Locke Body features a unique side entry rumble seat, wire wheels, attractive white wall tires, rear mounted trunk rack. Interior is in excellent condition, exterior is stunning. Cylinders: 6 Transmission : Manual Engine: Straight 6 Body Type: Convertible Fuel Type: Gasoline Private Seller....Title in Transit This classic car is part of an estate liquidation however it is available to pre sell prior to the estate liquidation. ***Please Contact Gayle (623) 261-2828 via text or craigslist email to view the car. I will be available to show it anytime between now and the actual Estate Liquidation starting on 7/4/2019

Buick introduced front brakes in 1924, so 1920 wheels would have no front brake drums. Rear wheel bearings changed going into the 1926 model year, so 1925 and earlier wheels will not fit on 1926 and later axle. 1920 thru 1925 used double row rear wheel bearing (900310 per parts book, New Departure p/n 5310). width = 44mm 1926 thru 1928 used single row rear wheel bearing (901310 per parts book, New Departure 1310). width = 27mm below photos show 5310 and 1310 bearings on a 1928 rear axle tube. There is no possibility of installing the nut on the axle tube with the earlier double row bearing. rear hub is not shown. Kevin

1926 Buick standard springs from 2 door sedan model 20. front & rear. $40 for all location near Portland, OR Kevin

Dave are you certain that 4 & 6 cyl have different contact arms ? The first 3 photos below are of a distributer with 4 cylinder shaft and upper plates which should be identical to yours. First photo is new NOS contact arm. points close parallel. Second photo is a used contact arm worn about halfway. points still close parallel. Third photo is a contact arm completely worn down. when closed, points only contact on one edge. Fourth photo is these 3 contact arms pinned on a drill rod. Length is identical, the part contacting the cam is bent slightly different. Final photo is the NOS contact arm sitting over the contact arm of my 6 cylinder 25-45, and these are also identical. Is it possible that somebody in the distant past has bent the fixed point mount to help improve a worn down moving contact arm ? Kevin

1926 Buick Standard front spindles $50 for pair located near Portland, OR Kevin BCA # 47712

1926 Buick Standard front brake backing plates $40 for pair front brake universal joint & lever assembly $40 for pair located near Portland, OR Kevin BCA # 47712