Start a new thread below in the Buick Pre War section and somebody will help you with this. A lot of us have worked on touring wood, including me.
https://forums.aaca.org/forum/60-buick-pre-war/
This is the Standard six 5 passenger Town Brougham, model 28-29 with 10,840 produced . It cost $1375
The coolant return pipe exiting the forward end of the head identifies this as a Standard model
The 1928 Standard heat riser I have has a thinwall tube with inside diameter of about 1.32. The best solution is find another tube with thinner wall that fits and replace it. It should be a lot easier pressing out a thick wall tube than a thin one.
Kevin
I measured the parking brake link "L" dimension and it is close to the 1922-23 link dimension 6-11/32". Also the brake bands are sized for 11" drums, and I am pretty sure that 1924 was using 12" drums, so this rear axle should be 1922-23.
Kevin
A quick look at the Buick Master Parts list 1916-1932 suggests that 1922 & 1923 4 cyl models have a lot of interchangeable parts for rear brakes. Some parts changed for 1924. I highly recommend that you order a copy, available a Amazon and other online sources. It will pay for itself in saving you from buying something that will not fit.
I have a 4 cyl rear axle with brake parts and will have to figure out what year it is tomorrow.
Kevin
I have been working on a Master fuel gauge which is slightly larger in diameter than Standard. I machined a stamping die to form the domed gauge faceplate but the tricky part has been cutting a slot and adding the fractional numbers. Something always gets screwed up. I will keep trying until one comes out good enough.
Kevin
Hugh
The rear wheel was the only application I can think of where the seal was not the same size as the adjacent bearing as it sits in a smaller counterbore. The rear seal was 72mm x 92mm x 10mm.
this was not quite a press fit so I used some RTV sealant to add some grip inside the bore.
The wire wheel hub might be different so check measurements first.
Kevin
John
Do not dismount spokes from the rim unless they are headed to a wheelwright for respoking. I removed the hub, scraped and sanded the old paint and gunk. My favorite scraper is a utility knife blade without a handle. It will fit into the narrowest point between spokes and will scrape cleanly. With heavy paint build up you might have success using a heat gun to soften things up. It is a very tedious project that takes many hours. Others have taken wheels to a sandblaster for clean up.
Kevin