Oregon Desert model 45

I believe 1923 was first year for die cast aluminum spider. Several years interchange up to 1923, so there may be earlier cars with a replacement 1923 aluminum spider. There are several photos online of original/ unrestored 1922 cars with rust showing on the spider, which was probably the last year to use steel. Kevin

The original steering spider from my 25 Master has flat ends which were fastened to the wooden rim with 2 wood screws each. The ends and screws would have been hidden with a biscuit of wood just like Terry's wheel has. The replacement steering wheel, which I believe to be 26 or 27, has spider arm ends that are thicker, and have a tapped hole. The wooden rim is drilled and a machine screw fastens rim to the spider arm. The screws are hidden by a small plug of wood. I believe the spider design was changed sometime in mid to late 25. Kevin

This photo should explain how the lifters are assembled.

Buick has a "widows peak" on headlight, cowl and taillight bezels from around 1923 - 1928. Lights in question are not Buick

MAFCA has this pic showing comparison of doors

Murray doors have a slight arch at the top of the window. Ford and Briggs bodies have windows that are straight across at the top.

NOT MINE https://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/pts/d/tualatin-chitty-chitty-bang-bang/7259530305.html 1917 Oldsmobile parts $160

3/16 fitting is part number 6100x3 Napa should carry these

This is how to repair tabs if they break off. A thin piece of brass is soldered to the bezel flange, which can be bent over when the bezel is assembled to the switch body. As long as the solder mound is thinner than those 4 round bumps, the switch will still seat correctly against the back of the instrument panel, and there will be no evidence of the repair visible. Kevin

There are 2 well preserved horse drawn hearses from the later 1800's at Bodie California. Bodie was a true Wild West mining town, so these hearses saw a lot of use. Bodie is now a California State park located off 395 and north of Mono lake. There are also some old cars there too ! https://californiatravelmedia.com/ghost-town-of-bodie/

The first pic has model 45 body width dimensions at upper and lower door openings, which is enough to get the body sheetmetal lined up correctly. Keep a copy of this handy. This is a collection of measurements that Larry provided. Upper cowl door opening width is omitted because it is solid enough that it does not move. Upper body measurements can easily be taken with tape measure over the top of the body. I made a simple width gauge from 3/4 wood that drops over the top of the center pillar to hold / check the width. Lower door openings can be measured using a trammel tool. Me

Ron I finally solved the driver side body contour issue this last summer while working on dents. There was a gap between door post wood and sheetmetal at back of rear door opening. There is another sketch I will make up for you to check / verify some body width dimensions before you disassemble the body parts. Below is the rear floorpan sketch, not drawn to scale. Kevin

Dobrý den I have both colors of 1927 Master combination switch faceplates for sale for $40 each plus postage. The decorative panel behind the glass is stamped brass. The gold colored faceplate at left has been cleaned behind the glass, the brown faceplate at right has not been cleaned yet, so the lettering is a little difficult to see. The brown faceplate would match the fuel/amps/oil pressure/temperature gauge in your car. Your combination switch with black/white faceplate from an earlier model year appears to have been restored, and so those little bent tabs which hold bezel

I will make up a sketch for the rear seat floor pan today. Here are 2 threads with pics of work on my 25-45 body wood and sheetmetal repair. Your 24-45 will be needing some new wood parts too. Kevin

Ron These are front and rear floor pans for my 25-45. The front pan could be fabricated by any shop with sheetmetal shear and press brake by making a box with flanges on 2 sides. Reproducing the stamped reinforcing feature at the bottom of the pan would increase the cost significantly as these are 1/4" deep. They will probably offer to just form some beads in X pattern to stiffen up the flat bottom panel. The dimensioned sketch plus photo should be enough to make the front pan. Corners are not welded. The rear pan is a much larger piece with a deep bump in the middle. C