Oregon Desert model 45

Your Buick is a Standard, so you could probably buy 9/16-18 shackle bolts for modern 4x4 and trim to length. My 25 Buick Master uses 11/16-16 bolt which is a non standard size, so I had to turn down a 3/4 bolt and cut threads on the lathe just to have a bolt of the correct size, but still lacking cross drilling for grease, heat treat, and hard chrome plate. both Master and Standard bolt sizes are highlighted in second pic from Buick parts book. Kevin

1923 model 34, 36 & 1924 model 34 steering column from a McLaughlin Buick. Models determined by measuring Column jacket length, which is partially obscured by lower end clamp and upper end steering hub counterbore. photo below from parts book lists column jacket lengths, and I believe 35 7/8" to be matching length. There is a trace of nickel plating on the jacket. Throttle, spark levers and quadrant castings are broken off, inner control tubes turn freely, steering wheel hub and gearbox turns freely, no other obvious damage. Aluminum steering wheel hub casting has minor dings. McLaughlin offered their 4 cylinder models with wood spoked steering wheel which was only available to US buyers in the upper end Master models, last photo shows and example of a McLaughlin with this steering wheel. Location: near Portland, OR price: $80 Kevin BCA # 47712

The rear flange of the fork slot may have been damaged years ago and then repaired by fastening that brass washer in its place. The fork slot would have been machined from steel bar stock to withstand the repeated forces of engaging the starter. The clutch will have to be replaced or repaired better than the previous attempt. You will have to first remove the starter generator and then push the clutch shaft out of the housing to remove the clutch. I have knocked out this same shaft on 2 motors now, and they are don't come out easy. It took around 8 blows before the shaft even budged, then a lot more to remove it. First your need to find a piece of round stock slightly smaller than the shaft to use as punch, or a deep socket as Hugh has pictured above. A thin punch will risk mushrooming the shaft end. Also you need (about) a 2 pound hammer. You have to be able to control the hammer when you swing it. I am not sure if you can position yourself for this task without pulling the motor out of the car. Kevin

I moved the spring pin bolt over, but the tensioner is still pulled down too far, so 30 1/2" fan belt is too short. Does anyone have the correct length ? Kevin

the spring hook bolt must be in wrong location. The fan support tower was broken off and repaired with a cast iron weld sometime in the distant past, visible in this pic.

I finally bought one of those newfangled serpentine belts for my 25-45 but goofed when selecting the length. The tensioner teeter totter is pulled down too far in my opinion and the spring is stretched way out. spring might also be wrong. Belt is a 305K9 which is supposed to be 30.5 inches x 1.26 if I interpreted the code correctly. what is the correct length fan belt for 25 Master ? also this car is a mix of multiple year parts; 24 motor, 25 or later fan assembly Kevin

NOT MINE https://www.kijiji.ca/v-classic-cars/winnipeg/1919-buick-mclaughlin-and-tons-of-extras/1472663943 Testing the waters. 1919 and 1920 Buick McLaughlin touring sedans with titles for both. First one pictured is obviously the better if the two. There is no motor/transmission in it but body is mainly intact. It rolls and steers etc. Wooden wheels all intact . Then there is the other one that is in pieces, frame, motor, front fenders, diffs etc. On top of the two I have probably enough parts to almost build both: two more engine and transmissions, multiple fenders, doors, gauges, bumpers, horns, wheels, pieces from the original wooden bow and more. Pretty uncommon to find all of this in one place. Testing the waters as my plans have changed and I don’t want to see them sit around and not get there deserved treatment. 2500$ for everything . Can assist in shipping Canada wide . Call or text 2042918389

Found the thread. it goes over multiple topics and includes sketches of both hood brackets Kevin

I have an extra rear hood rod bracket that I fabricated which needs finishing (grinding / hand filing) to be presentable - shown at lower left. Upper left is my original. My forward hood rod bracket was missing and replacement I fabricated is shown at right. These little parts get unfastened from the car when somebody removes the hood and get misplaced pretty often, so it can be hard to find originals. There is an older thread somewhere in Prewar technical with dimensions for both of these parts posted by either Hugh or me. PM me if you want the unfinished rear bracket. Kevin

Parade in Eugene OR circa 1950 based on movies listed on theater marquee. Perhaps the new car dealers proudly drove a current model and that well preserved old model taken in on trade ? Old cars won't stay looking this nice if they have been left outside in Eugene's rainy climate.

Bob's Automobilia carries these parts. I believe both these parts should still work for 1922. https://bobsautomobilia.com/distributor-parts

does it have same double groove as 1928 Chevrolet ?

The cooling tube on my 25-45 has 80% of its original nickel plating remaining, but is not original to this car. I used some copper sheet to patch up the worst rust holes, yet there are still more pinholes needing patching. Kevin

I stand corrected ! Title revised. thanks Larry

NOT MINE. This one is for Buick restorers down under. location : Murray Bridge, South Australia chassis has the earlier style rear axle used on 4 cylinder models. Complete set of wire wheels with matching hubs is hard to find. https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/murray-bridge/other-parts-accessories/1924-buick-rolling-chassis/1229290029 gumtree ad dated 25/09/2019