Oregon Desert model 45

The tube supplying oil to head and pressure gauge was plugged up in my 1924 motor. It took around 40 psi air pressure to blow out a wad of gooey semi hardened oil sludge.

Apolo Does the venturi air valve close completely or does it stop at partially open position ? The 1925 Marvel carbs have a half circle shaped fixed air valve spacer block which swelled over time due to bad die cast aluminum alloy, and the air valve hits this block before fully closed position. This results in air leak past the air valve and it will not generate proper vacuum to draw fuel out of the venturi nozzle. This will affect performance. To fix this we remove the spacer block and hand file the flat side until the valve will swing closed. may have to file .030 off until it works. Since Marvel changed this carb every year between years 1923 and 1926, I don't know if the 1924 carb used this same die cast spacer block. First pic is what to look for: valve stops before closing completely; second pic shows valve fully closed. kevin

That looks like 1928 based on headlights, radiator shell, and front shocks.

I vaguely recall a discussion on lapping the needle valve tip to the seat using polishing compound or maybe it was toothpaste ? Once they have been lapped together, it should seal much better. Kevin

Rear hub removal depends on whether the car is a 4 or 6 cylinder model. If 4 cylinder, then hub must be pulled from the axle shaft. If 6 cylinder, then remove the 6 acorn nuts and pull the entire axle shaft and driving flange out by hand - no puller should be necessary. Then you will see a large nut that has to be removed and the wheel can be pulled and the bearing will be accessible. Picture below should be close enough for 1919 model. Kevin

Alfred P Sloan: My years at General Motors. Its not specific to Buick, but does include some stories about early Buick. Sloan's book been called a "manual for managers", but its really the complete history of GM from the very beginning. Familiar names like William Durant, Ransom Olds, Henry Leland, Charles Nash, Walter Chrysler, Dupont, Charles Kettering, and their roles at GM. GM made many costly mistakes in these early years, and Sloan crafted his management rules as a clear guide for future decision making. For every management rule, Sloan has multiple stories of mistakes made in each division, and he does describe parts of the factory operations in some detail.

It took me two tries to get the rear door opening patch done right. First photo shows the first attempt which had too much gap towards the bottom when the door was held up to it. Also too much curvature in the vertical direction. So I cut it out and fabricated another patch. Trimming and fitting the patch to the opening takes a lot of time, and after each snip the alignment had to be rechecked against the door profile. When I compared left side / right side measurement of this narrow strip between fender well and door opening I found one side was 1/4" narrower than the other. A likely explanation for this is the tooling and stamping technology in use at Buick's sheetmetal shop. The fender well was stamped by one press & die, the door opening stamped by another press & die with sloppy tooling that allowed 1/4" error in positioning. It must have been a real challenge to assemble bodies using sheetmetal parts so much variation. Kevin

For sale on inland empire California craigslist. NOT MINE. I HAVE NO STAKE OR INTEREST IN THIS CAR. 1916 Chevrolet Baby Grand Touring - $3500 (apple valley,) https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/cto/d/apple-valley-1916-chevrolet-baby-grand/7118838797.html

For sale on Oregon coast craigslist. bring your own basket. NOT MINE. I HAVE NO STAKE OR INTEREST IN THIS CAR. https://oregoncoast.craigslist.org/pts/d/yachats-1920-cadillac-phaeton-type-49/7116545300.html 1920 Cadillac Phaeton Type 59 I have the cowl, 3 of the 4 doors, hood, original radiator and surround, rear section of the body, several other panels, rear fenders, complete frame with front and rear suspension (no engine or trans) and a second frame for spare parts. Very rust free body. I had planned to make a phaeton roadster hot rod out of it but doubt I will ever get around to it. No engine or trans. No title. $4000 or trade for the following ONLY: - Ford Model A of Model T - Pre -‘67 Volkswagen bug bus or vw powered buggy Located in Yachats, Oregon 97498 (central coast) phone (602) 616-3083

For sale on Modesto California craigslist. NOT MINE. I HAVE NO STAKE OR INTEREST IN THIS CAR. https://modesto.craigslist.org/cto/d/modesto-cadillac-1924/7113323359.html 1924 Cadillac with original motor which still turns over and would not be hard to get running. Original black paint, which is in very good condition considering the age of the car; the car also has a nice patina within the paint as well. There is also still the original factory hand-painted pin-striping which runs along the side of the car, it is not visible in the pictures due to the amount of dust on the car. The car has very little to no rust at all and has been kept indoors. The car had a truck bed put on it many years ago, but I still have the real rear of the car with the back seat to make it a sedan again, as well as the canvas top which will both come with the car. I inherited this car from my great grandfather and am selling it to pay for college. My grandfather knows much more about this car than I do so I am providing his phone number to call, (209) 2 three three - 1 9 4 0. I know this care is rare and was top of the line back in the day so I know it is worth a good amount of money and have seen restored models sell for anywhere from $80,000 and up into the $100,000 dollar range. So I am looking for a price in the mid-$20,000 dollar range but am flexible and open to negotiate or possibly trade for a newer fuel efficient car.

The rear door opening patch is a bit complicated because it is the intersection of a curved door opening and body curvature in the vertical direction. I made a form by grinding the edge of a heavy piece of steel plate to match the door opening curvature and hand filed a corner radius to closely match the original. Then I put a slight bend in the middle to approximate the vertical body curve. A piece of sheetmetal is clamped to the form and hammered over the edge to make a flange. I made another form out of a piece of oak to bend the second part which will be inside the door opening. This part has a larger bent flange, which ended rumply after bending, so I heated the flange with the torch to shrink so it would flatten out. That's why the wood form is scorched black. These two pieces will be welded together with another short piece at the bottom to create the door opening/ reveal patch panel. Kevin

Goodell Pratt hand plane fence - missing a few parts. Didn't find any photos of one attached to a hand plane.

I have been using a 25 year old Harbor Freight MIG welder on the body sheetmetal. It works on the lowest heat setting on the welder, tip held close, and needs a copper heat sink on the back side or it will blow thru. I was trying to weld a hole in the firewall closed using the oxy-acetylene torch and the hole just kept growing like a sink hole instead of closing up - much to my alarm. Usually I can see it starting to blow and pull the torch back in time, but this sheetmetal acts very differently. Kevin

I made a cardboard template of the right side upper rear corner and compared with the left side and it did not match, so it needs to be cut and reshaped. Since there is already a messy bunch of welds here, the best repair is to cut out the mess and install a patch panel. The method I have used before to form a raised bead in sheetmetal is to make a wooden form with a radius groove and press the sheet into the groove using round bar with the shop press. The groove needs some heavy gauge flat steel fastened on both sides so the bead corner will be sharp. This takes a little trial and error to get correct bead width and depth to match the original. A bucket of scrap steel pieces is real handy when making these odd one use tools. Another form is made by cutting a radius in a piece of wood to match the body corner radius. Two pieces of steel are bent and fastened parallel to protect the bead from being mashed when the panel is being pounded into the form. I used the heel of the teardrop body dolly to pound the panel down into the form. Now the patch panel is complete and it's time to lay out the cut and begin sawing. Once the upper body flange has been cut, the sheetmetal gets real wiggly as I try to get the patch aligned and clamped ready to weld. Finally it looks good and I get it all tacked in place. I will finish welding it up and then heat the flange corner with the torch so it can be bent and shrunk to match. This already looks so much better than it did before. Kevin

Another possibility for brake band misalignment could be the slotted ear which supports the adjustment rod. This one has a bent ear, which has pitched the slot at an angle that will affect brake band alignment.