Oregon Desert model 45

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Everything posted by Oregon Desert model 45

  1. something like this ? https://stockton.craigslist.org/pts/d/holt-antique-chrysler-body-for-sale/6989353436.html Antique 1927-1929 Chrysler body for sale - $1500 (Stockton)
  2. Nickel plated brass gas cap with vent stack. Threads are 2-1/2 - 14 ; Hex is 1-5/8; fine knurl around outside diameter What make used a cap like this ?
  3. NOT MINE https://rapidcity.craigslist.org/pts/d/rapid-city-buick-roadster-parts/6998383398.html 1917/1918?,buick roadster parts - $500 (Rapid City) (605) 484-8311 1917 or 18, body parts, hood,8 doors,8 fenders,metal folding top,2/cowls,bumper,spare tire carrier, seat,4 tires and rims,some engine parts,and more!!
  4. Auction ended today. see screenshots of final sale prices below.
  5. Those brackets appear to be Ford Model A windwing brackets. Reproductions are readily available online. Larry is correct - the windshield stanchions should have a boss at windwing mount locations. Kevin
  6. now these cars are being auctioned online. ends Wed, Oct 16 at 10:00:00 am https://www.northstateauctions.com/
  7. carb casting 10-103 fits 1926-1927-1928 Buick Standard
  8. 4 cylinder or 6 cylinder Buick ? Post a photo of Starter-Generator so we can see what is missing Kevin
  9. here is a tubular axle on craigslist. Not sure if it is Chrysler product or not. I have no connection to advertiser. https://reno.craigslist.org/pts/d/south-lake-tahoe-tubular-underslung/6960861778.html A front axle assembly from a 1920's roadster. It is underslung and of tubular construction. It uses King pins which appear to be tight and functional. It comes complete with complete hydraulic brakes and wood spoke rims. I also have the rear brake drums, hubs, and rims available. Perfect for your ratrod, hot rod, or jalopy. Mounting plates for u-bolts are top mounted and measure 29" O.D. and 24 1/2" I.D. and are designed for leaf springs. Use CL reply for communication and questions. I have no cell phone reception. If this ad is posted then it's available.
  10. The rocker shaft on my 1924 motor was at least half full of gooey semi hardened old oil that did not wash out during solvent cleaning. The inlet end of the shaft has an end cap, so I shoved a 1/2" or so wooden dowel down the open end of the shaft, and the gunk extruded out of the inlet hole as a long "worm". Repeat this until no more gunk comes out of the hole. The oil feed line to the head was also plugged in the section between the oil pump and the calibrated fitting. I discovered this when blowing air thru all of the oil passages inside the motor. It took around 40 PSI to blow the gunk out of that tube. Kevin
  11. As a test of spoke tightness, I thumped on each spoke with a mallet while holding fingers over the protruding end at the rim, and at least 1 or 2 spokes do have some amount of movement when thumped. All of the spokes are weathered; front spokes clean up to bare wood with sanding, rear spokes the wood degradation goes deeper. Banged up hupcaps are included. I will look and see if there are any better ones that fit Standard. Kevin
  12. want to buy set of 21" x 4 1/2 demountable rims for 1926 1927 1928 Buick Master. to verify size of demountable rim (with no tire mounted) hook a tape measure where the rim is split and wrap around the rim at the bottom of the channel, circumference measurement is approx 66" Demountable rims have a unique clip at the rim split location. Demountable rim width is approx. 4 1/2" Kevin BCA # 47712
  13. Easy way to identify Buick Standard is 114" wheelbase; also motor coolant return tube exits from the front of the head and should look like photo below. Larger series Master has a wheelbase of 120" or 128" and motor coolant return tube is a manifold with 3 different tubes attached to top of the head. Your car appears to be Standard. Are you missing just 1 rim ? Beginning in 1926, wheel size is based on diameter of tire bead. If the wheel is removed from the car and the demountable rim is demounted, you can measure the wheel rim from the back side (over the brake drum) and get correct measurement. To measure the demountable rim, wrap a tape measure around the tire channel circumference. 21" rims should be approx 66" if the tape measure flattens out. Tape pictured below was not a good choice for this measurement. Kevin
  14. I have (6) 21" rims for 1926-1927 Standard wheels. 4 of them are nice and straight, but have tires mounted (which I will be keeping for use on my car), so I don't know if they are deeply pitted or not. The other 2 need a little straightening, but they are not bad as they easily fit over a wheel. $50 each location is near Portland, Oregon Kevin BCA # 47712
  15. 1924 & 1925 Master brush adjustment can be made by spinning the linkage push rod while the linkage assembly is removed from the motor. This will allow for correct sequence of Overrunning clutch engagement to flywheel teeth just as the starter brush drops. Push rod is fully unscrewed exposing the threads in second photo below Kevin
  16. another one in CA https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/d/clayton-pontiac-1933/6931510045.html Pontiac 1933 - $13500 (concord / pleasant hill / Martinez)
  17. here is one in Lancaster PA https://delaware.craigslist.org/cto/d/lancaster-1934-pontiac-straight-8-sedan/6936130232.html 1934 Pontiac touring sedan all original with 74,000 original miles in excellent condition runs and drives Second owner since 1998 asking $15,000 or best offer will consider a trade call for more info at show contact info serious inquiries only
  18. Alex Your Buick appears to be a 1924 model 44 Roadster, probably a 1970's era restoration based on the color scheme. The photos you attached of missing parts are correct, but it's the oil pan (not the crankcase) and oil pump. Also the distributer has broken off, leaving the bottom stem stuck inside the Starter Generator end casting, circled in below photo. The water pump might also have some rust thru areas. The oil pan was probably removed to investigate something, (low oil pressure, engine noises, or ?) so you should perform thorough check of bearing clearances, clean out oil passages, clean roller lifters, check timing gears. Old oil can harden and plug up the pressure oil feed system. Now we can narrow down the years of interchangeable parts. Oil pan: 1924-1925 Master. I do not know if 1926 will interchange. Oil Pump: 1924-1928 Master according to parts book. Distributer: 1922-1925 6 cylinder models. 1925 distributers were made from aluminum which often cracked, swelled and broke apart. Complete motors do occasionally come up for sale on this site, and tips for working on these parts can be found on Buick - Pre War Technical section. There are several of us that have recently completed engine work on 1925 Buicks and have posted a lot of helpful information that should help you get started. Kevin
  19. NOT MINE https://cleveland.craigslist.org/cto/d/painesville-1927-chrysler-roadster/6927820921.html 1927 Chrysler roadster - $6000 (Painesville) Selling 1927 Chrysler 70 series roadster. This is a project car that needs finishing. Body work done. Took car in on trade, don't know much about it. Have top bows, windshield, and bumpers. New wood in rumble seat area. New tires. Car does not run. Oklahoma notarized title. The body alone is worth the asking price.
  20. saw this interesting dash and upper cowl on craigslist. what year / make of car is it from ?
  21. NOT MINE https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/pts/d/norco-buick-parts-hot-rod-rat/6933269805.html Late 1920's Buick 6 cyl engine and transmission. Grill shell and radiator and more.. call for questions 76o-662-188one JIM.
  22. I think you should have masked off the spokes where they meet at the hub before painting. When these wood wheels were first made, the spokes were dry assembled together and pressed into the rim, then a hole bored thru the center to fit the hub with little or no clearance. This allows the weight of the car to be transferred from the hub thru the end of spoke and down to the rim. Applying primer and paint could add maybe .005 thickness. Since spokes are assembled together into a ring, multiply 12 spokes x 2 faces each x .005 resulting in .120 growth of the circumference of the bore. Divide by 3.14 to get approx .040 growth in the bore diameter. This means you would have a very difficult time getting the bolt holes to line up when you reassemble the wheel, and since the center bore no longer makes contact with the hub, the car weight will be transferred to the bolts which will result in wheel failure when you are driving the car ! This would be a good time to get some paint stripper, a sharp scraper, and remove all the paint where the spokes meet at the hub. I have remnants of wood spokes that were protected behind the hub, so added photos showing how paint applied to spoke contact surfaces will affect the bore size. This is exaggerated of course.