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About m-mman

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    Hacienda Heights California USA

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  1. http://www.autocolorlibrary.com/aclchip.aspx?image=1938-Willys-pg01.jpg As paint technology has changed the old 'receipies' dont work any longer. I have ordered from these folks before and been very satisfied.
  2. m-mman

    ID Please

    Something about a 'Whippet' man getting a divorce that calls for its own comment, but I cant think of any without becoming crude. Could this 5 year old car be his half of the settlement? He seems to have been 'bumped off' on the right side. . . . .
  3. Original car, never taken apart. Rev it up to get it to go into gear? Has original internal seals? Makes noise going into gear? Those are ALL the symptoms I had in my Lincoln. . . . . I really think that the internal seals have hardened and you are due for a complete rebuild of your transmission. 😪
  4. You rebuilt the engine, tell us about the history of the transmission. My 1959 Lincoln sat for many years while I restored it. When I finally started it and began driving it again, the trans shifted hard, then late, then not at all. (got progressively worse over 2-3 months) Tried all the typical stuff, nothing worked. Because it quit moving completely, I eventually had it rebuilt. Turns out that the original seals & O-rings had hardened up but did not fail completely until after I started driving it. (heat cycles?) So, how old/original is your trans? If the fluid level is correct, a transmission will circulate and self bleed during periods of idling.
  5. Verify this, but I dont think a restored hydro-electric system should be using brake fluid. They did when they were new, but as discussed above having brake fluid (under pressure) in lines running all over your car is never a good idea. I have restored many convertible top systems from the late 50s into the 60s and they were ORIGINALLY filled with brake fluid. After I remove the pump and clean out the system I have always refilled them with auto trans fluid. It has good hydraulic properties and if/when it spills or leaks, it makes a yucky mess, BUT there is no damage to paint or other things. (like upholstery) The industry switched to factory fill ATF in the mid 60s. I have been reading about your work on the 1952 series 75 and if you have not yet discovered restoring the hydro-electric system IS A VERY BIG PROJECT. If you really want it to function reliability, there is no easy way, there are no shortcuts. Remove, rebuild, reseal the pump. REPLACE all the flex lines, check all the metal lines, FLUSH EVERYTHING (working with the window cylinders/springs and be difficult and dangerous) Then refill it with something besides brake fluid. As for your questions about the wires. Before about 1955 or so everybody used 'cloth' insulation. It was originally actual cotton(?) fibers woven over the metal strands. The fabric was then sprayed with a lacquer covering. It gave good insulation when new BUT it was very susceptible to aging. The lacquer failed and the cotton rotted away leaving dangerous electrical shorts everywhere. An old 1940s-50s car in the 60s was just a fire waiting to happen. The industry switched to plastic insulation which has stood the test of time and I have late 50s cars with original plastic insulation that is still fine. Again to really fix a cloth wired car it needs to be completely rewired. You can do it yourself one strand at a time OR vendors like Rhode Island wiring sell entire new harnesses. Not cheap but if you consider the time you will spend doing it one wire at a time it becomes easier to bear. Good luck with your project.
  6. These were commonly identified in production records as "CKD" - Crated Knocked Down. Tires and other parts removed for both easier shipping and allowing for use of local labor in reassembly to appease local government regulations.
  7. It isnt a Full Classic or an open car. https://www.uship.com/
  8. "First Aid Car". . . . . Why would you use a sedan to dispense 'first aid'? It doesn't look like it has an ambulance body, so I am thinking that it is a Sedanbulance. Removable post on the passenger side, single bucket seat up front for the driver, and a gurney that fits into the space between the rear seat and the dash. I tried expanding the image to see if the end of a gurney can be seen popping up at the back seat, but no luck.
  9. Perhaps somebody could elaborate on this concept a little. Yes I am in California and Yes I have seen cars on ebay that were "geographically handicapped". Buy the car at the price offered, then add shipping, and you are quite underwater before you ever turn a wrench. Being in CA the idea of starting with a car that has any rust is irresponsible. Even if the numbers made sense I dont think there are any body men in CA with rust repair skills and experience that could actually perform some of the resurrections that I have seen documented on Eastern cars. BUT I have also seen more than a few Easterners spend wayyyyyy more on rust repair than they would ever spend on shipping a western car to the Right hand side of the country. I have moved a few cars a long distance and open vs closed and scheduled vs unscheduled is only like $1000 - $2000(?) What do rust repair and patch panels cost? Way more than that I would assume. Why dont more Easterners come out west to buy? I would like to get this car into a forever home for $1000. OK, then, lets say you step up and spend the full $2000 to ship it . . . . Is an iconic 50s car (that yes, does need all the mechanical repairs that any long parked car needs) not worth $3000??? If I moved it in an Easterly direction, I would have fuel and time involved and it would be in a car corral at $3000. Would it be worth $3000 if it were 50 miles from home? What am I missing?
  10. I think I am going to put stitching in the same classification as sleeving a block. Nobody routinely (reveals? discloses?) that a block has been sleeved. (or bored) These are both major repairs to to save the casting, BUT they are both a reliable, stable fix that as long as the complete engine is functioning well, is not a disclosure item. As time and experience continues to prove the reliability of stitching, it will become a complete non-issue. The JB weld repair SHOULD be disclosed, but those types of repairs never are . . . .
  11. I have no doubt about the quality of this process, and its ability to save ancient castings. A true salvation for the hobby. However to continue the discussion, your statement about disclosures opens up a huge Pandora's box. SHOULD something like this be disclosed?? What are the ethics involved?? 🤐 I have seen stolen cars which were stripped of parts and 'totaled' by an insurance company later be rebuilt by simply bolting things together again, but then the 'salvage' title forever scars an otherwise perfect vehicle. Disclosing this type of repair might be an inconsequential black mark that would scare some people needlessly. 'tis a predicament.
  12. Sadly it has yet to find a home in North America. I know that shipping is expensive. Is anyone interested in giving it a home at $1000 ?
  13. Absolutely. What we are saying having some kind of pedal just to get it out of the garage and into a place where you have room is a fine place to start. It is almost impossible to repair brakes in a tight narrow garage. You need 3-5 feet on the side to be able to work down there. What we have all seen are novice collectors who think that having a solid pedal is ALL you need and then they go on to other things and eventually have a serious failure months later when they thought that everything was already fixed. FYI - Removing (stuck) wheels and drums is different from having stuck wheel cylinders. When you get there, tell us what you are facing and we will tell you more. One step at a time, do things properly and don't rush. Despite what they show on TV car repair is NOT a timed event and don't set hard deadlines for yourself. 😉