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Everything posted by Hubert_25-25

  1. Drawings modified in the original post to attach the rear seat belt to the wood frame. Hugh
  2. I put seat belts in my other collector car and now it is time for the Buick. This is how I installed them. Nothing on the car meets NHTSA guidelines so don't expect this to either. Just trying to upgrade the car a little for safety like adding a brake light, turn signals, and safety glass. Drawings modified from original posting. Hugh
  3. I have a couple of those J hooks and metal brackets as well. I have wondered how it all is supposed to go together. I know how the front hole is supposed to work, but not the J bolt.
  4. Dave, It takes a lot of thought to create a mechanical linkage that works properly. You have made Rube Goldberg proud. Hugh
  5. Hand cranks are different for 4 and 6 cylinder models. If you want to look for or make your own, you can have one made per this drawing. Does anyone have the information for the larger hand crank? Is the handle section the same? I will add it to the drawing. Basically I thought the 4 cylinder was a nominal 3/4" bore and the 6 cylinder was 7/8" bore, but I am not positive. I also did not list the other hand cranks. There is a B model hand crank and later cranks as well, but this covers the bulk of the hand cranks. Hugh
  6. Bill, You are very fortunate that the fire was caught in time. One other note I would like to make about what Buick did to minimize the event of a fire. The original mufflers were against the inner frame on the left side of the car. The exhaust down pipe did not route straight down and then back. The down pipe was rotated in the flange by a few degrees to get the exhaust left to within about 5" from the frame. Where I have labeled "bend" is where the pipe actually runs parallel to the frame. This "jog" in the piping was to keep the exhaust pipe from running under the carburet
  7. Kevin brings up one of the advantages of the updraft carburetor. With the engine pans in place, any leaking fuel is directed by the drain hole to not drip on the exhaust pipe. The exhaust pipe is significantly cooler than the exhaust manifold. If the downdraft carburetor floods over. hmm Olsons gaskets will sell the individual gaskets. Hugh
  8. Rod, You pointed out the 2 bolts on top of the heat riser, but there are 2 bolts on the back side as well. Once you remove the 4 bolts, the heat riser and everything below will come loose. Hugh
  9. Morgan, Good to hear that you are making steady progress on reliability of your Buick. You could do the water pump shaft and then a treatment or covering to the exposed metal to give a rusty appearance. I know how creative you are. Lots of covering options or chemicals that will bring out the rust in the stainless as you can tape off the rest of the shaft and treat only the exposed section. Just saying. I am surprised at any overheating at idle. My engine runs around 400 rpm, and if I fully retard the timing it runs 300 rpm. The leather belt and fan seem adequate a
  10. Rod, I am going to give you some options here. My personal opinion is that the easiest thing to do is to pull the Marvel carburetor and rebuild it. You likely need to repair or replace the pot metal venturi at the base of the air valve as it grows over time and prevents the air valve from operating properly. My 1925 Marvel works great and my friends model A which is also in good tune has trouble keeping up with me. At one time I had thought of converting my car, until I went thru the carburetor and fixed the problems. Once they were fixed I was glad that I had not spent the en
  11. So the Alemite 6B is called out as a part number in the 1929 McLaughlin book of parts. Same part #119892 as used in 1927.
  12. Found a little more history on zerk fittings, along with the patent that shows the end of the grease gun that should be used for these early pin style zerk connections. The switch to the ball end zerk fitting was perhaps around 1934. Those style would have a wire clip just inside the tip of the grease gun to hold the tip onto the ball. The early pin style just had a rounded inner hole in the tip as shown in the patent figure #3. Hugh Automotive History How the Zerk fitting changed the automobile forever Kyle Smith 24 July 2020 ShareLeave comment The a
  13. I found the following history on grease fittings. Backtracking Through History – Grease Fittings Arthur Gulborg was a son of a co-owner of a small die-casting plant in Chicago. His job was to relubricate the die casting machines by refilling their oil cups several times a day. This labor-intensive task led him to invent the grease gun (screw type) and grease fitting in 1916. He invented the fitting, a braided metal hose having a special end connection, and screw-type grease gun. Arthur Gulborg and his father named it “The Alemite High-Pressure Lubricating System” a
  14. Jim, Glad that you found the major part of the problem. Also consider looking for stray sparks at night around your plug wires. Your Marvel is similar to my 1925 model so consider looking at the condition of the air valve and the venturi operation in the carburetor. I also ran into issues with a little rust or trash that got into the air valve piston and was keeping the air valve from moving. Attached is a link. Hugh https://forums.aaca.org/topic/322950-1927-buick-carb-removal/
  15. Rod, Here is a picture of my block upside down. Not sure if someone put a black rubber o ring on yours. I don't have that o ring. Hugh
  16. While getting set up for a drive, my daughter was providing shade for the grand baby as I had not installed the top by this time. My son was driving and this made for an interesting picture with the 1925 Buick. The umbrella did not function very well once they got underway. I am convinced of the need for having hats available in old cars. Another piece of history that has little importance today.
  17. Just guessing Rod, but does the oil dip stick fit in it, and does the tube then fit into the block?
  18. Bill's description made me think about your situation a little. 1925 was the last year for the "open" style of multi disc clutch shown below. This is a photo looking up at the clutch with the lower clutch cover removed. It takes very little effort to remove this lower cover. This gives you a good view of all the clutch plates. Use a rubber mallet or pieces of wood and gently tap on the plates to loosen them. Transmission in neutral and rotate the engine with the hand crank. Work both sides. Do this outside. Stay to the side, tap on the sides and let any dust fall to the middle.
  19. The early Buick grease guns (1923 & 1924) had a flex hose and an Alemite fitting with pins on each side. These twisted in place and would pull down on the fitting so a flex hose is appropriate. Then for 1925 and 1926 there was a change to a pin style "Zerk" grease fitting. A 3/16" diameter pin sticking out of the fitting, so I would think you needed a rigid tube to hold the grease gun to force the grease into the zerk. The Part number changed to 119892 in 1927 and I am not sure if Buick still had the pin fittings and a new style grease gun, or changed to the ball zerk that would have
  20. Yes, The strap is just bent over on itself. The end of the strap is on the tank side so that it is squeezed in place. These are my top and bottom straps for a 1925 Buick Standard. They used a tar paper like material between the tank and the starps. Oil impregnated webbing is a good substitute as well. Anything to protect the paint on the gas tank. Maybe provide some photos of your fuel pump issues as this is not factory. Hugh
  21. Morgan, I am glad to see that you are trying Evans in your Buick. I know you were having overheating issues. Has that problem resolved itself? I am running Evans in my 1925 Buick Standard Touring. I think all the temperature data you have is throwing off what a person would normally see on a single temperature gauge if they had one in the car. So I am posting my experience using Evans and providing a link regarding installing an inexpensive temperature gauge that flips under the dash when the car is shown. One other note. The Buick has a spark plug cover, so the temperatu
  22. Found a little more info for you in the BCA (Buick Club of America) judging manual. Another verification that the serial number is 1923 and the motor is 1922. The tire information gets interesting. The BCA Judging manual lists your tires as being 31 x 4, while in my earlier post (data from the Large Buick Book of parts) list the tire size for your car as 30 x 3 1/2". 30 x 3 1/2" was discontinued long ago. You have run into the same thing as I have run into. My 1925 Buick Standard has 22" rims and lists a tire size with BCA judging as 30 x 4. These smaller cross section tires are no l
  23. Look into a 33 x 5 as well. Whatever makes a 23" rim (33- 5X2) . The added sidewall makes a little softer ride. I personally prefer the look of a larger sidewall tire. In 33 x 5 you have more tire options as well. 31 x 4 looks to be an obsolete tire size. Hugh
  24. Those are not the tires that came on your car. Look for a 23" tire or a 32 x 4 1/2". I think you have an option for a balloon tire as well which will give you a better ride. Hugh
  25. Consider if this will get you by temporarily. You may be able to find a tractor hand crank on Ebay and have a machine shop bore it or bush it to match what you need. Hugh
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