Hubert_25-25

I made two transmission gasket sets when I did my 1925 Standard. My intention was to mail one set to Olson's as they keep the records on all these. If they do not have the gaskets, let me know. Maybe I never mailed the set to them. There are 3 washers inside the input shaft. Instructions on how to install an input shaft seal. I had the brake and cluth pedals powder coated gloss black. It is a more durable finish than paint. Make sure they plug the pivot holes in the pedals. The output ball has a felt seal. Available from Bob's. Hugh

It is nice to have the transmission lock working, but it is a stupid design. The lock will only lock the transmission in neutral. I like to leave my car in gear when unattended. So I have a nice operational key and lock that I never use. Hugh

You must have one part installed wrong, or maybe someone before you swapped a part out, or maybe there is wear on the micarta insulator. Maybe heat history on one of the parts. Look for any loose or slotted parts that have elongated. This is the ignition side. The ignition switch contacts (#3) has the 3 fingers closer together than the light contacts. Use an ohm meter when rebuilding these to check functionality prior to reinstalling. Hugh

The first thing I started on was installing sheet metal for the side curtain pocket behind the front seat. This was painted black on the back side and nailed into place. There was also a light fixture on the seat back that was incorrect for the car. It was behind the robe rail. Buick put a light on the side of the rear seat back, but we opted just to leave this out. I covered the holes later with a sheetmetal plate and pop rivets. Also added a tack strip at the base of the seat to hold the seat back upholstery. Back in the day, the seat back was upholstered to the car. Wood was also added on the door latch post as there needs to be a place to hold the seat side leather perimeter tacks.

This is a sequel to "No Convertible top, No problem - 1920's Buick missing top bows and socket". Phase 2 is to show what the previous owner and now what I am up against in putting an interior into a 1920's Buick. There are several challenges when the seat spring assemblies are from another vehicle (unknown but assumed Ford). As I am already part way thru this, I have to do a little back tracking. So starting with what I was given. The first order of business is putting the foundation wood in order. This is a stately automobile. When the car arrived, you could barely squeeze into the front seat. Larry DiBarry, Kevin Roner, and Don Burland provided details for me to understand what changes were needed to the front seat. The seat base was level. Buick angled the seat base at 15 degrees (lower at the rear). So the back of the front seat was lowered 3". The seat back was also trimmed and moved to the rear by 1 1/2 inches. This is most noticible in the last photo when you look across the seat and see the passenger seat position relative to the passenger door. Also notice how short the seat base looked. It looked more like a perch than a seat bottom. This was my stopping point so that the car could be driven, and the top was installed. Now I am moving on to the interior. Hugh

Did some shimming on the Metz valves. The company that rebuilt the engine did not set the valve clearances. It appears that on these older models, a person would cut or grind the valve stem to length as I see no adjustment system. The worst valve clearance was .090 I assume this should be .012 So I used some .027 thick sheetmetal and cut it into a plus sign. The center is 3/8 x 3/8 and the tabs are 1/4". I also cut a 3/8 x 3/8 square out of .050 sheet metal to use as a shim. I bent 3 tabs over, added the shim, and then bent over the last tab to hold it all in place. The right side of the motor was not as far off so it only required a large plus sign shaped piece of .014 sheetmetal. The motor does not clatter near as much when it runs now. I still have a carburetor problem that I hope to resolve soon. Hugh

Yesterday I pulled the front hubs on the 1927 Buick. The first photo shows the grease removed from each front wheel. The round green blob is the grease from the left front hub. It came out like a semi solid mass. This was on the outside of the outer bearing in the dust cap area. There was a small amount of grease in the inner bearing cavity. The pile of grease on the right is from the right side hub. It had some grease on the outer bearing, but the inner bearing was packed FULL and it must be an entire tube or tub of grease that was on this side. The second photo shows the grease on the brake lining. You can also see on the brake actuating pivot above the axle has additional grease that was pumped in. Everything is well lubricated. The third photo is the brake actuator bracket against the frame. It is missing a bolt and nut. I will post more after I clean all this excess up and prepare to heat up the brake band. Hugh

Jim, I think you are looking at the other Schlebler, and that is not my photo. There is a black hose above Tom's Metz carburetor, but that is only temporary as I was wanting to check manifold vacuum. Very erratic on a 2 cylinder and looks like a meaningless number unless you have 4 cylinders or more. Please post some photos of your Buicks. This is my 1925-25. A ground up restoration. It is super fun to drive. The right side or the motor is a little different because I have the last year of the combination starter generator. This is the factory color "Brewster Green with red pinstriping". Hugh

Jon, I appreciate your comments here. At one time we had (what was said to be) a NOS Schebler model D. Purchased on Ebay. The car would not run on it, and it was subsequently resold. At this point, I would consider trying another or something else. A running incorrect car is more valuable than a non running correct car. I also heard from the owner that the original carbs were not very good, and many of them were replaced. So not necessarily looking for what came on the car, but a good replacement. Tomorrow I plan to make a temporary shim adjuster for the very large valve clearances which could also be a problem. Hugh

Jim, I have these original instructions on the Metz. Hugh THE USE OF THE METZ PLAN CAR. DIRECTIONS FOR DRIVING AND RUNNING THE CAR Although we are aware that a great number of our purchasers already understand the mechanism and operation of an automobile, still we feel that even they should study the following points as to driving the Metz Plan Car, as we wish the users of our automobile to get the VERY BEST results in operating. “FESTINA LENTE” This translated into English means “make haste slowly” and it embodies our advice to the constructor of a Metz Plan Car. Therefore, in the first place, before running the engine be careful to ascertain that the lubrication is working and that the gasoline feed is perfect. In the second place, go over every nut and bolt and be sure that no detail has been missed. Many motorists make the error of only giving consideration to the engine, leaving such important details as adjustment of transmission and wheels until these get troublesome through neglect. We feel constrained to give this warning, and a few moments spent in heeding it will be TIME WELL SPENT as it will materially prolong the life of the car. TO START THE ENGINE First of all, fill tanks. In filling the gasoline tank it is always advisable to use a funnel fitted with a strainer, as this prevents any water or dirt reaching the carburetor through the feed pipe. In 1909 models, remove motor base cover and pour in 1 ½ pints of best air cooled lubricating oil, then fill the lubricator with the same. The sight feed drips should be so regulated as to maintain this amount of oil constant. The best oil is always cheapest in this case for the difference in running will be distinctly better and the cost will only be a few cents more for 500 miles of driving. First see that the clutch pedal is withdrawn and that, thus, the friction discs are not in contact. Switch off magneto and open throttle lever. Notch the starting crank with handle DOWN, so that you will pull UPWARDS TO START THE ENGINE. One Or two brisk upward pulls, and the engine will readily start. Throttle the engine down after cranking so that it runs slowly, do not allow it to race. Prior to sending the carburetor from the factory we adjust it so as to meet average conditions and we send it with a booklet dealing with its adjustments. Sometimes the climate etc. in different localities may necessitate a slight readjustment of needle valve and air intake. It is easy to decide this by experimenting when the engine is running but, generally speaking, our adjustment will meet most conditions and the engine will start up quickly and fire regularly. ON THE ROAD Having seated yourself in the car release the foot- brakes, if they happen to be applied, place the driving lever in the third notch from forward. Accelerate the engine by opening the throttle and engage the clutch pedal gradually. When the car has travelled a few yards and the engine has picked up speed, release the clutch quickly, move the speed lever forward and again engage the clutch. In changing to a higher speed it will be found necessary on most occasions to accelerate the engine by opening the throttle. Always “let in the clutch”, that is, bring the friction disks together GENTLY as this imposes less strain upon the tires and other parts of the car. Always run the engine as slowly as possible for the work it has to do, that is to say, use the higher gear for the load and gradient without straining the engine. If you “race” the engine when it is running light you put unnecessary strain on the moving parts and are much more liable to do damage than when the engine is running fast under a load. Never let the engine run fast on a low gear when you can get the same speed out of the car, and a lower engine speed, by changing to a higher gear. Foe example:-If the car is running on the level, on, say third speed, and the engine begins to race, change at once to top speed, you will then get along as fast with the engine speed much less, quieter, and with a resultant saving of wear and tear of engine, bearings, and transmission, and also a reduction in the amount of gasoline and lubricating oil consumed. On the other hand, if the engine labors on a steep hill and the speed falls off appreciably, a change should be made to a lower gear of course and the throttle lever should be opened on a hill as wide as the occasion calls for. THE USE OF THE BRAKES Avoid as far as possible any necessity for sudden stoppage. More damage is done to cars by inconsiderate and violent application of powerful brakes, than by any work they have to do. When intending to stop, release clutch at a reasonable distance and let the momentum of the car carry it up to the stopping place, when it can be brought gently to a standstill by a very slight application of foot brakes. When about to descend a steep hill and you do not want to use the brakes, put the first or second (that is one of the LOWEST) speeds in and switch off, letting the car drive the engine. This will prevent the car “getting away” on any hill, and the lower the speed you are in, the more effective the brake. A powerful emergency brake can be employed by using the reverse. This should be used only in case of extreme necessity. To effect a sudden stop release the clutch, throw the speed lever back to reverse and the engage the clutch gradually. This will bring the car to standstill in its own length. The rear wheels should be detached every few months so that the multiple disc brakes may be packed with the very best grease. These brakes should also be oiled through the screw hole provided, from time to time, but grease also is needed to insure perfect working conditions.

Jim, Take a photo of your gas tank at the threads. You need a digital micrometer and a thread gauge and I can help you with the gas cap. Thanks for the photos and notes on the carburetor. There is a Zenith on this car. It is a very old carburetor. It has a pot metal venturi and it is begining to fail. There is blue around Toms carburetor. Was also told that this carburetor was for a 4 cylinder car. The other photo is a Metz Carb photo that I received from Tom. Looks like yours but in brass. Worked on the car all day. It starts when cold and has throttle response. Once it warms up all of the throttle response goes away. Then the engine can only idle eventually and it will die. It does not want to restart when warm. We do have to work on the fact that #2 cylinder valve clearance gap is .070 on both intake and exhaust. Do you know what the valve clearance spec is? Hugh

Edinmas, As always, I appreciate your expert advise. I will try this, but I do not have an extra oven, as this won't be happening in the house because I don't like sleeping on the couch. I would consider doing this on the outdoor grill. Would you think I could first clean the band as good as possible. The band is about 14" diameter. Then set it on a cookie sheet, then warm up the grill to 500 degrees? Hugh

Mark, When I first saw the brakes, I thought the same thing. Jim, The wheels have an offset hub so that if you pull the pin, and install the wheel in the other direction, it changes the track (tire to tire width) of the vehicle. I understand that the reversible wheels was to compensate for the buggy ruts of a buyer's local area or when traveling to another area. I will get a close up of the cap and dimensions when the gas tank comes back. This tank looked new. It looked like it was never used, but it had a hole in the bottom so it is going to a radiator shop for a repair. Do you have any photos and information on the carburetor? Hugh

I have never had any luck rejuvenating grease or brake fluid soaked friction linings. I have cleaned them repeatedly with brake clean. They usually look good, but the functionality is not there. I can't see just heat having the ability to remove all of the oils that would be soaked into the fibers. I can see the heat thinning the grease, but I don't see it driving it out of the friction material. I currently have some grease soaked front brake bands. Hugh

Jim, I have Tom's car at my house. I have been working on it and I made a new top for it. I just put oil in it. I should have measured the amount, but I did not. There is a float in this oil pan. On the right front of the oil pan, just below the mounting flange, there is a 1/16" piece of wire that sticks out two inches. If this wire is pointing down, there is no oil. If the wire is horizontal, the oil level is full. The sump is in the neighborhood of 2 to 3 quarts. Sorry, no extra gas caps. I could get dimensions on this one if you need it. Photos of the brakes. There are bars inside the brake housing that keep all the notches aligned. Once you remove the 5 bolts around the flange it should slide off. Also, odd thing is the right side wheel castle nuts are left hand thread. Hugh

I see a bit of rust plugging the water passages to the head. Be sure to clean these out. Also consider installing a GANO filter in the upper radiator hose to catch this and kep it out of the radiator. Once you install the head, I would remove the lower water pump hose and do a back flush on the block (water in on the head) to remove residual rust. Including notes on installing the head from Larry DiBarry. I agree with his procedure and I follow the same practice. Since you have removed the head studs, be sure to put thread sealant in the threaded holes and on the threads of the head studs. Also a note on how to torque the head studs if you opt to not remove the rocker shaft. It is a best practice to retorque the head after a couple hundred miles. Torque sequence is from the 1926 Buick export manual. I also used 60 ft lbs for my cylinder head. Hugh

Jeff, Correct on those 3 years. Waterpumps are out there. It will just take some time to find one.

Originally there was a felt seal where the shaft exited the hub. The old hub had an oil plug and the internals were a patented gear drive oil pump. Better to use sealed bearings. These are the drawings that you will need to make your own fan hub. Hugh

The regular parts books do not carry this level of detail. I have also not seen fisher body books this old. Very rare.

John, Rare Parts carries the tie rod ball studs and ball cups. The Buick Master and Early 6 "Ball Stud" is part number RP28308. More expensive than used on the Buick Standard. 1 1/8" Ball vs 1" ball. Note that I have included Buick Standard part numbers here for reference to others. Pricing is 5 years old as well. While you are at it, Bobs sells the leather boots (or easy to make yourself). You can also buy new dust covers. I had to modify them a little using a band saw and some sockets and a hammer. The springs are available as well. Hugh

In my set up, I only used 3 holes, and the flanges on the casting did not give me a warm fuzzy. I never really used this set up as I was trying to make it work but I never felt comfortable with it. The flange just did not seem stout enough for the job. These engines were never designed for an engine stand. Please take a side photo of each side your engine support. Maybe your lower block is different than my 1925 Buick Standard. There are only 5 holes on the back of the lower block. The top middle hole is threaded. It's a strong hole. The two holes on the oil filler side are in a flange of cast material that is not very thick. I am not one to trust old castings. Perhaps you can add a short horizontal piece of angle iron to lay across the angle iron that you added and catch the center hole that is unused. If you look at the 2nd motor back in the Buick dealership photo, the mechanic has a speed wrench in his hands. The block is on an angle iron stand, upside down, and the stand is maybe 1 1/2 feet tall. Hugh .

Several of those valves are gone. With no markings I can't tell you which ones. Valve jobs are not typically expensive at a machine shop, and you are getting an expert who has done many cylinder heads if you are at the right shop. I would take the head to a machinist and get an opinion and an estimate. Even go to 2 shops if you want to compare notes and find a person that you are comfortable working with. I dropped a head off 2 years ago and it was around $500 plus parts. I did buy 12 valves and 12 guides and 12 springs.

I opted not to use an engine stand to rebuild my 1925 Buick Six. I was never comfortable with finding a good place to attach the engine stand to the back of the block. I used a 4' x 4' piece of .060 polyethylene cut from a 4 x 8 sheet. I kept the floor spotless around it. I started with the cylinder section upside down first. I was able to build the entire block upside down. It was flipped over after the pan was installed. Hugh

You should post this on the Buick Pre War website. A 1930 Buick person may chime in.

Adding these photos to this thread because it show what a difference a new top makes to the appearance of these mighty Buicks. Took the car out for a drive and was arriving home at sunset. I really need to get started on the upholstery. The last 2 photos are of the third top that I have now completed. This is a 1910 Metz. Once you get the hang of making these tops the work starts to find you. Enjoy the photos. Hugh