Hubert_25-25

Brian, I want a full set of these so that I can lock all 4 doors on my touring car. Hugh

Wilson, I have a full set of good original door handles for pre 1925 Buicks. I also have two 1926/1927 door handles, and two who knows/garage door door handles that are functional. I was going to sell the 4 early Buick handles as a set, but I may be open to separating. I do think if a person is using original handles, keeping a spare is also not a bad idea. I need to look as I think I may have another person that was interested in one of the early handles, so breaking the set is not out of the question. I was also thinking of keeping one in case I needed to cast more, but I could always pull one off my car if I ever went this route. PM me if you are interested. I also noticed that you are a newbie so you may not be able to PM me until you do some posting. Please start a post introducing yourself and add a photo of your car. We always like to see what is out there and helping folks get on the road. Hugh

I would still have Rootlieb quote making them. They do good work.

Glenn, My socket set is 1923 model 35. The above McLaughlin set is 1924 model 45. The 1924-45 may be a better fit for your 1925-25. I think you should try to source the 1924 top sockets first. Not sure if he is willing to remove the bows and ship just the sockets. Bows attached is a nice thing to have, but it will effect shipping costs. I also wanted to mention that I did not see the top pivot bolt in your photo. The bracket is shown in this side view of the pivot bracket near the middle of the rear tire. The top rest bracket is also shown in the back corner of the seat area. Then there is a top rest support iron. Hugh

Tom, This is an interesting post because this is exactly the same situation that I am currently working on. My client has a 38 Buick Special. The 6 volt optima is the battery to buy. In this case, 2 of them. Instaling them in parallel keeps the voltage the same but doubles the capacity of charge on hand. The Buick has a long battery box that can hold the two 6 volt batteries, but they are one behind the other, and not next to each other. So the wiring is like in the "6 v Batteries wired in parallel" drawing that is shown below. Then I found these cables that look like they are up to the task because they have an extra post, so there is no need to make any modifications to any wiring. There is a common set of these kind of cables that are 7" or 8" long each. These are great for batteries that are "side by side" to each other. You can find the red or the black on Summit or Rock Auto. I listed the part numbers at the very bottom of the attachments in case someone wants to put 2 batteries next to each other. The short cables are readily available. They also make these cables 14" long each. You need this extra length for "end to end" batteries. The red postive cable appears only to be available from "Quick Cable", so order both red and black from them. Part number is 7755-001 (black) and 7756-001 (red). Note that there are lots of pictures of these on the internet, and they look like a pair, but the cables are sold separately. I have also ordered the red cable from two other companies trying to get the correct red cable, and they ship the wrong one. Order the 14" cables direct from Quick Cable, as they are the manufacturer. I would post a picture, but I keep running into problems with other vendors trying to get the red 14" cable. Zoro has the wrong one listed, then I tried another vendor and I am still waiting. Once I resolve with the last person, I will either have the correct cable, or I will order it direct from Quick Cable. I work on numerous 20's and 30's cars. A single 6 volt optima works great, but in many of the 8 cylinder cars, there are dual 6 volt optimas installed to provide that insurance of having more starting power. Hugh

10 years is about the life of these batteries. I would save yourself the trouble of it failing out on the road and replace it.

This is the socket set that I have from the 1923 Buick model 35. You can compare these to the top sockets above that are correct for a 1925 model 25. Only two dimensions are the same. The 1925 model has a lower roof line than the 1923 model as that is the progression tops were going at the time. What is probably most important is the 2nd photo here showing the height of the sides of the top socket assembly when the sockets are stretched out. This one reads 22" when horizontal from the bottom of the frame above the doors to the door tops. This number is around 19" on the model 25. Hugh

Kevin, I have an SU fuel pump in my Jaguar. I have it set up with an SU fuel pump (diaphragm style) and a cheap electric pump. They are connected in series and either one will work if the other fails. I was going to change the cheap electric for another SU pump at one time. I bought several fittings that I still have. I took the dimensions off the fittings. What I hate is that there are so many parts out there, but no one knows how to put a dimension on them for us retrofitters. Your gauge is looking good. Since you drilled the 2 holes on each end of the slot and you are cutting a domed surface, you could hold that to a piece of wood and use a band saw to cut the slot instead of drilling all the holes in a row. Do you just need the single banjo, or are you going to order new? Hugh

Kevin, Are you looking for just the Banjo? I respectfully submit to no rubber hoses in the fuel line. If rubber is used, it should be no more than 6", but best is no rubber in the fuel system. I bought this copper tubing off amazon, soldered it onto the original ends. It is much better quality copper than original. SU fuel ends would get you where you want to be. Attached is some digging into them that I did at one time as old parts can get scarce. Hugh

Good call Old Tech. That was one heck of a large hole to break a ring and pinion and crack the driveshaft. Perhaps one break started the others. Easiest is to look for an entire 1927 Standard rear axle. One year only according to the big book. Hugh

Thomas, I am really seeing mixed signals. 1927-27 is a Standard. (20 series is the standard, 40 and 50 series are the Master). In the photo of your rear axle housing, I can see the inner ends of the axle shafts near the ring gear. They are threaded on the inside end (Standard). Now there is this picture of an axle with a broken keyway. The shaft is not threaded on the ring gear end (Master). Hugh

Mark, That is absolutely an excellent process that you have put together to get the side curtains accurate from the original photos in the parts book. I am looking forward to seeing how they turn out. Brian, I do still have those original side curtains. 1923 Buick model 35. I took a lot of detailed photos of these that Mark has on a USB. I have also created dimensional drawing files for anyone that needs them. I have done the same with side curtains from Jeb Bailey and Chuck Nixon that would work for 1921 and 1922 Buick model 45. I have the same for 1925 Master and Standard. I also have details for 1928 Buick Standard from Dave Blaufarb. Side curtain details changed a lot over this time span. Hugh

Thomas, Please post a photo of your car showing the side of the car. Your upside down picture of the engine is a Standard engine. The Standard water outlet is a single nozzle at the front of the head. The Master has an engine water outlet pipe with 3 connections to the head. The horn is a 1927. If you do have a Standard, please change the header of this thread. As I stated earlier the Standard axle is 3/4 floating and the Master is full floating so almost nothing interchanges on these axles. So the speedometer that Kevin displayed is close and will work, but it is for 1926. On the tumblers, there are equal indentions in the slot opening above and below the tumblers. 1927 is backlit and AC changed the faceplate so that the tumblers are viewed from above centerline to catch the light on the tumblers. The can has two windows in it. You can see them in the 1st photo. These have a twice as deep indention above the tumbler slots and below the tumblers is no indention on the faceplate. Verify that you have an instrument bulb behind your dashboard. I take it you have a round hole in your dashboard. Hugh

Mark, I really enjoyed our discussion as we went thru the process on both tops.

David, Now I really feel dumb. Lower on the middle bow, just above the top pivot, are two light gauge washers. Several of us were wondering what they were for. They are not very strong and when I went to straighten one on the passenger side, one of the washers broke off. I asked the owner if he wanted to weld the washer back on. We didn't see a purpose, and the owner thought they looked out of place and suggested that I grind the others off. It's a good thing I don't always listen. The clevis pins for the front bows also had regular cotter pins in them. I have seen these retaining pins with straps which is what should replace the regular cotter pins so that they can be easily removed and not bent to stay in shape. Thanks again for the education. Hugh

Mark, Your top looks great, and your interior as well. I am glad that you were stitching your top at the same time that I was, so that we could compare notes. I too may need to make some specialty hidem so I will follow your notes. Good suppliers are getting thin. Once you have a sewing machine, the opportunities find you. This is top #3. This is a 1910 Metz. Talk about a top that really extends past the seat when folded. Another one in the early stages but if someone follows your notes the process can be applied to the orphan cars as well. Looking forward to seeing your side curtains. Hugh

Thomas, I have a speedometer that is rebuilt and calibrated. I will PM you. Hugh

Glenn, Welcome to the forum. That is a good looking Buick. In the future, please make all communications on the "Buick Pre War" website for fastest communications. I just happened to see this one. Read through the following link and it will go step by step on making a top. Start with getting bows and sockets. Work on getting or making all the hardware and installing it on the car before even thinking about doing the canvas. There are many small pieces. This takes you to October 11th. On November 12th is another link within which has more details on making the canvas top. - I have made drawings for every part of a Buick 1925-25 for the entire top assembly. I may have to email those to you for better clarity. That is, if you are going to make them or try to find them in New Zealand. - I did recently receive a 1923 model 25 top socket set, but I have not had the time to verify it's application for your car as the body style change was 1924. The box containing 2 socket assemblies measures 38x8x8 and weighs 28 pounds if you want to look into the cost of shipping them from Lake Jackson TX 77566. - You still need 4 wood bows. I have the drawings for those. - I need to document the dimensions on these top sockets before they leave me. - I do not see the top rest brackets for the corners of the rear seat so you will need to make those as well. - Also note that your windshield is different than mine so modifications will need to be made. - Below is the cleaned up version of the 1925-25 Buick top sockets. Hugh

Modern zinc plated fasteners have 2 problems. The head markings need to be filed off, and now the top of the bolt needs replating. Over time depending on where you live, the zinc plating can have oxidation effects (I see this on the stuff I restored 20 years ago). For hex head fasteners (if it is not a high head), I usually use stainless steel. First I use a hand file and set the bolt in the bench vise to remove the head markings. - Run it under a 5" wire wheel and it will dull the finish and put minor scratches in it. It looks like zinc plating. - Polish it, and it will look like chrome. Slotted fasteners are getting more difficult to find, and I almost always have to order them. Bolt Depot, Albany County Fasteners, and Ebay typically have replacements in zinc or stainless or brass.

Mark, That is a nice set of shocks and linkages for the right car. 1924 seems a little early. I thought 1925 was still using Snubbers, and even through 1927. I saw these single action shocks on a 1925 Buick and I was thinking that was either a 1st year, or these are aftermarket. Those look to be dual action. Hugh

Hi Bob, These brake drums are larger than on my 1925 Standard. They are 14". I do have a question on the grease cap on the front wheel hub. This has a screw on cap with a slot too big for a screwdriver, and a smaller screw in the cap that does nothing. These have a ton of grease packed into the front wheel bearing. The dust cap won't unscrew because of the hub cap. It looks like if you tighten it too much, it will force grease into the wheel bearings, or perhaps run into the axle nut. When I was doing a brake inspection on the opposite side, I noticed that A LOT of wheel bearing grease must have gotten past the wheel seal and it is oozing out between the brake drum and the brake band. Needless to say this one brake is ineffective. Do you have any information on this dust cap? Thank you, Hugh

Bob, These are some photos and dimensions of the rear Buick Master Buffalo hubs. The actual hub to wheel fitting details, you should be able to take from your front hubs. Hugh

This is a link to how to fold the top, and how to make a top boot. The owner of this Buick is not anticipating to fold the top at this time. The car needs the interior refinished and some mechanical items resolved first. This car will also need "top rests" which are available thru Myers Early Dodge and made by Vintageandclassicreproduction.com. Then there are the top rest pads and the leather straps from antiqueautotophardware.com I did also write instructions on how to make side curtains which is another nice addition to have for the car even if they are time consuming to install. Hugh

Thank you all for the kind words. I wanted to also include a link to the first top that I did because there are additional details in this document that may benefit someone as they are going thru a top replacement. I may put some other links in later as well, as a person also has to know how to fold a top (always unsnap the gypsy curtains first), and these tops really should have a boot cover to support the rear glass so that this does not bounce against the spare tire.

Bob, I recently put all 4 wheels up on jackstands to check the brakes. Then I finally got the wheel wrench. The left front wheel was VERY loose, and the right rear is a little loose. It appears the wheel nut got stuck in the threads and the person thought the wheel was tight. It was probably 3/16" away from being pulled up tight. I'm not sure how the spring in the locking nut broke because the wheel nut was out too far, and that prevented the locking nut from going in all the way. Maybe it was just broken from fatigue from before? I have the front wheel off. This was the loosest one of the two. I need to fix this wheel before I can move to the back. The wheel itself looks good. It has paint on the mating alignment surface so I have scraped that off with a razor blade and just put on a light film of grease. - There is rust on the base of the hub mating flange. I scraped this off, and then put a light coat of grease on this rusty section. - On the edge of the wheel securing nut, you can see where the chrome has been chipped when the spoke ends hit it when the wheel was loose. The mating flange on the wheel looks good. Here I cleaned and regreased the threads. - The locking cap has a broken wavy spring. I stole one from the spare tire, but not sure where to find another. I don't know if anyone has any maintenance guide for these wheels. Hugh