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  1. Hey guys, Just a quick update. I got the car started after changing plugs wires, points, cap and coil. Unfortunately I sprang an oil leak from the top of the oil cannister on the fire wall passenger side. Upon closer inspection while suspecting a fatigued gasket I discovered one of the oil lines where it threads into the top of the cannister had come loose due to the threads being fabricated out of what i believe to be JB weld or something similar. There is also evidence of pin holes in the top of the cannister. Clearly a new cannister would be ideal in this situation unfortunately the gentleman who was manufacturing the NOS ones from Bob's Automobilia in California has since retired. My question to anyone in the know is where might I be able to find another one complete with the junction part for the oil lines to thread into? On the plus side it purrs and even settled into idle before it ran out of gas. I was just running gravity fed fuel from a pop bottle as I don't yet know the serviceability of the gas vacuum tank nor the main gas tank. Thanks in advance, Craig
  2. Hey guys, I figured out how to remove the rims but am stumped when it comes to removing the hubs from the axles. I took off the axle nuts and the retaining rings but they seem stuck on. Is it the brake shoes under tension against the drums that is impeding my ability to just pull them off? Do I have to loosen something on the back side of the brake drums first? Once again guys, I am new to cars of this vintage and don't want to damage anything by being too forceful unnecessarily. Cheers for any advice, Craig
  3. Thanks for that, should be really useful. Looks quite simple really though I do not see a coil in the circuitry anywhere. Craig.
  4. That was exactly my plan, to pour fuel with a lead additive into the vacuum tank where that banjo bolt feeds to it. Then let gravity do the rest. Cheers, Craig.
  5. Thanks for the wiring diagrams Hugh, I know they are going to be very helpful, Craig.
  6. Gentlemen, I am now satisfied that the Buick I bought a month ago is in fact a 1928 Model, not a 1925 as it was advertised. I am indebted to those of you who were able to point this glaringly obvious fact out to me from the get go. All I had to do was get a good look at the Information on the Placard mounted to the Firewall. I have changed the plugs and wires and the distributor cap and rotor look to be in decent shape, albeit slightly showing their age. My question to you would be, what do the wires from the positive and negative posts on the coil connect to, and furthermore, where should the coil itself be mounted? Mine was sitting loose and the wires disconnected. Next, there is what I can only describe as a precursor to a Solenoid mounted directly on top of the Generator that has loose wires as well. Where should they go before I look to upgrading them as they are somewhat aged as well? I just want to hear this thing fire before I get into detailing it. Next, is fueling. The vacuum tank/pump has a fitting coming off directly above the glass bowl situated beneath it that is not connected to anything. My guess is that glass bowl should house a filter of sorts. I purchased one but it is slightly oversized. On the opposite side there is a similar fitting disconnected from what I believe is the feed line to the carburettor. It is disconnected as well as I suspect someone was trying to force feed it to get it started. I could be wrong. The fueling I should be able to figure out, but can someone please explain if it works on vacuum, what sends the fuel from the vacuum pump before the engine has even started? I see the airline from the intake manifold to the top of the vacuum pump but just can't wrap my head around that detail. For the wiring I could really use some pictures of intact power units pertaining to the details I have described. Thank you all for any advice in advance, Craig
  7. Thanks, I’ll flip them when I get home. I just put them back on the way they were when I picked the car up last month. Here’s a shot on the way back from BC with the car in tow. Happened to drop by the Rust Bros garage in Tappen but nobody from the TV show was about.
  8. I agree with your last statement Wayne, it just looks right from behind. I think the 1/3 top to 2/3 bottom ratio is just right.
  9. Thanks for providing this data, I’ll definitely be looking into where my chassis fits into those serial ranges. Good news is it looks like mine is one of the fewest made. I’m an avid golfer so when I heard what that door was originally intended for, I just had to have the car. Craig
  10. Well I’d have to say that the overwhelming consensus on whether or not to chop the top off my Buick has been to leave it unmolested, and I agree. The more I look at pictures of it, as I’m away at work up north right now, the more I appreciate it’s lines as a hardtop. I like the Landau roof, though it could use recovering. It’s been redone before but for some reason they used multiple pieces of some wrinkled black vinyl-like material. Anybody know what it is? It captures dirt and dust in the deep grooves and is not easy to clean at all. I really appreciate you guys speaking out against me creating an abomination like that ‘31 conversion several of you mentioned on bring a trailer. I don’t want any part of that show. When I get mine finished, if I still want a convertible, I’ll just search for and buy one. Did any of these cars come with factory heat? I found a heater core with a chrome facade, small electric fan attached behind it, which I imagine mounts under the dash somewhere with the feed lines for coolant running through the firewall somewhere. Is this possibly aftermarket or from a later year? I’ll get some pics posted when I get home next week.
  11. That’s a beauty! Love the White Walls. I’ll post pics of my serial number plate when I get home next week? Thanks, Craig.
  12. Thanks Dandy Dave! I am not with the vehicle presently but can offer two numbers from the appraisal documents I got with the car. The VIN is stated as being 7590 and the Body # 4399. I will pour over the vehicle when I’m home next week and furnish you with anything else I find. I remember there is what looked like a hand carved indication that it was a Fisher Body on the floor of the passenger side when I lifted the access panel to the battery and I think there are some numbers there too. Cheers, Craig.
  13. I did notice the top of the door lines were much lower on the convertibles compared to my car. I figured it would be a huge undertaking considering the compromise to structural integrity. Reinforcing the chassis/frame and the wood body framework would be imperative. Don’t get me wrong, I really like the car the way it is right now. I just wanted to know other’s views on changing an existing body style for something else, ie, rumble seat/convertible transformation.
  14. I tried Coker, and they are out of stock for my size apparently. 525/550x21”
  15. Thanks for the info regarding the Landau Bars and the Running Boards. Out of curiosity, If I were to convert my Buick to a Rumble Seat configuration, how might that affect the value? Or indeed, If I were to chop the top and make it a convertible roadster type. Are such acts of butchery considered sacrilegious to some?
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