Highlifer

Thanks Jon, I'll check the carb numbers upon my return from work in a week or so> Craig

Thanks Leon, I am away from the car but as soon. as I get a chance I'll dig into it and verify those numbers. Craig

Thanks Hugh, I am up north working in the Oilsands but when I fly home in a week I intend to get cracking on this asap. I notice the air flow metering valve screw on the bottom of the one in the picture you provided was practically all the way in. Any idea where I could get a gear set for the spark advance and throttle controls at the bottom of the steering column? Craig

Okay Jon, I checked out your website but wanted to make sure you could fill my order for one of your Marvel rebuild kits. I think I have established that my car is a Buick Mclaughlin (Canadian) Country Club Coupe (114" wheel base). The patent dates on the float bowl cover plate are for the years 1907, 1912, and 1921 respectively. I am worried that if I try to call your business line my Canadian number will get redirected to voice mail as a result of that feature you wisely opted for. Are you able to quote me a price on here then I could fill out the order form and send it via email complete with payment details? What components specifically do you supply for Marvel carbs, for instance do you remanufacture Venturis or do you just supply the gaskets. I am also interested in blanking plates. PS, I applaud your efforts in the maintaining the Richardson Cemetery. Craig

Hi Jon, is the Carburetor Shop located in Minnesota?

Thanks Hugh, you never disappoint with your valuable information. I made the gaskets myself and replaced all the crush washers. No leaks but have a no start problem. The timing is out I believe but could also be the Venturi not allowing the air valve to seat flush to the wall as I recall seeing this before I reinstalled it, which was before I read your article. I mention the timing because I noticed my steering wheel control no longer works as some of the teeth on the gear assembly at the base of the column are missing. Tried to order these from Bob’s Automobilia but they are out of stock. Does anyone else have a source for these? Thanks in advance, Craig.

Hi Bob, Craig Mackintosh here in Leduc County. I have a 1928 Buick Country Club Coupe that I am rebuilding and would love to compare our vehicles. Currently in the middle of rebuilding the carb trying to source gaskets, and complete body restoration. I went with the original wooden spoked wheels it came with, sandblasted, stained and painted, with whitewalls from Coker Tire. I used to have a couple of wire wheels but think they were discarded at the wife's insistence of a purge to clean up storage space. i'll check my storage tomorrow though. 780-799-6938

What would you estimate its worth once completely assembled and painted with interior finished? I am doing that right now to a 1928 Country Club Coupe and man it is a lot of work when you do it yourself.

I got a complete replica oil filter canister from Bobs Automobilia for a reasonable price.

Hello everyone, I am in the process of rebuilding my carb but can't find a gasket kit. I have resolved to make my own but am unsure of the best material to use. The carb is a Marvel and the patents on the float bowl cover plate are from 1907, 1912, and 1921 respectively. I am completely unfamiliar with how an updraft carb works so if anyone can shed some light on the basic principles i'd appreciate it. I have rebuilt my vacuum tank and had my fuel tank epoxy coated inside ready to take fuel but the signal wire from the tank for the gauge was compromised in the disassembly phase. Does anyone know if a replacement can be found anywhere? I had a go at making my own out of a roto-rooter styled plumbing auger sleeved into a neoprene conduit. It seems to work even though I used a slightly thicker gauge wire than the original but only time will tell when I fill the tank to get the float back up then calibrate the gauge. Thanks in advance.

The wheels are from my 1928 Buick. $20 a bolt sounds cost prohibitive. I am going to try to salvage as many of the originals as I can and yes, I numbered the spokes first.

Hi guys, I was in the process of dismantling my wheels to refurbish the wooden spokes and while doing so on one of the wheels, 10 out of 12 of the bolts sheared off as I was trying to remove them. I used a penetrating liquid to loosen the nut from the threaded bolt but to no avail. This was done by hand, no power tools involved. Anyway, I am obviously now in need of replacement bolts and was wondering if anyone could point me in the right direction. The bolts are 2.5" long with a 3/8" thread. They have a button head like an old school rivet which has a squared portion directly beneath it to make sure it remains captured while the nuts are tightened on the brake drum side. I am sure someone here knows what I am talking about. I can find mild steel ones at my local nut and bolt place but they have a larger diameter head and just don't look the part. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Hey guys, Just a quick update. I got the car started after changing plugs wires, points, cap and coil. Unfortunately I sprang an oil leak from the top of the oil cannister on the fire wall passenger side. Upon closer inspection while suspecting a fatigued gasket I discovered one of the oil lines where it threads into the top of the cannister had come loose due to the threads being fabricated out of what i believe to be JB weld or something similar. There is also evidence of pin holes in the top of the cannister. Clearly a new cannister would be ideal in this situation unfortunately the gentleman who was manufacturing the NOS ones from Bob's Automobilia in California has since retired. My question to anyone in the know is where might I be able to find another one complete with the junction part for the oil lines to thread into? On the plus side it purrs and even settled into idle before it ran out of gas. I was just running gravity fed fuel from a pop bottle as I don't yet know the serviceability of the gas vacuum tank nor the main gas tank. Thanks in advance, Craig

Hey guys, I figured out how to remove the rims but am stumped when it comes to removing the hubs from the axles. I took off the axle nuts and the retaining rings but they seem stuck on. Is it the brake shoes under tension against the drums that is impeding my ability to just pull them off? Do I have to loosen something on the back side of the brake drums first? Once again guys, I am new to cars of this vintage and don't want to damage anything by being too forceful unnecessarily. Cheers for any advice, Craig

Thanks for that, should be really useful. Looks quite simple really though I do not see a coil in the circuitry anywhere. Craig.