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dibarlaw last won the day on August 6 2018

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About dibarlaw

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 09/02/1955


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    Have loved the old car hobby for over 40 years and still trying to become involved.

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  1. Looks Great Terry! Sorry I could not get to see it personally before you had to leave Saturday. Those judging forms were giving me fits and so I was running very late.
  2. Hugh: Just for reference the 1924 4 cylinder has a shorter shell and core so it will not interchange.
  3. So.... very... sorry.... but Dave did not meet up with us at Strasburg VA. at 8:30 Monday. After several weeks of prep and a shake down up to our place in Chambersburg the 41 made it down the D.C. beltway to where Dave was about to take the exit to the highway to cross VA. and connect with route 81 and our meeting point. (over an hour away) He said it lost power, backfired a couple of times and the quit! Dave did troubleshoot the best he could. He did have good spark, checked that the fuel pump was pumping but the car refused to cooperate. All during rain on the busy beltway somewhat shielded under an overpass. He ended up having the car towed the short distance home. I believe around 10 miles. I tried to console him with that it was better it happened near home rather than the hour long traffic tie up on route 40 outside of Knoxville Tenn. We would of both had to deal with that this morning. Once Dave got the car home he got it started and it ran fine!!! But I just spoke with him a little while ago and it still may be an erratic fuel pump. We are now at Conway Ark. We have to make the final leg of our journey so we can pick Dave up at the OK City Airport tomorrow afternoon.
  4. We will be meeting Dave Blaufarb near Strasburg VA. around 8:30 in the AM to caravan with his 41. See you soon!
  5. Possibly1928 Buick Model 55 sport touring.
  6. 1925 Buick Model 55 Sport Touring in period advertising photo. Balloon tires began the white wall as an upscale tire item. Prior there were the all white, white and gray, all gray and there were several manufacturers that made red wall tires.
  7. Jack. Back in 1922 the "Foot Rod" may have actually looked more like a rod. This is what belongs in my 1925 Buick Standard.
  8. Don: Most of the period gas caps will work. Yes we need to find someone to reproduce these again. Mine was missing from my 1925-25 and a locking unit from the 1950s was on it. A friend gave me an aluminum one but the steel ears were rusted off so I had to fabricate something. These are reproduced..... but as an oil filler cap for Cadillac at over $200. a pop!
  9. Hugh: I have run my engine for several hours over the last 3 months. (My oil pressure is also at 25 lbs.) 15-30 min at first then an hour to set the valves. Many times for 1/2 hour intervals still trying to get it to run any better than before I had it rebuilt. Which it is still not. I have then taken it on several mile runs around the neighborhood. I believe I only have the equivalent of 50 -75 miles total on it so far. So I am contemplating changing out the break in oil. I am keeping at it though. I may try my other carb today since no adjustment makes things happy. Also I am chasing down a miss. Just very disappointed that after all this nothing has improved. To me the engine does sound noisy as compared to other 1924 and 1925 engines I have heard. I also have to make a retainer collar for the input side of the water pump. Those expensive seals are walking out of the bores on this side also. At the HCCA Brass at Berks meet at Strasburg yesterday I spoke with a fellow who can fit me up with a Carter BB-1.So we are considering. But the newly painted fenders look good!
  10. 1924 Model 35 4 cylinder touring. Closer to $5,000 without a top.
  11. June 22nd 2019 HERSHEY, PA. Mason-Dixon Chapter and Freysinger Buick/GMC will host their 11th annual Buick Show at the AACA Museum 161 Museum Drive Hershey, Pa. Peer judging with 6 Buick Classes, 3 classes for other makes, modified and truck classes. Best of Show-Buick, Best of Show-other makes, Long Distance, Oldest Car. Dash plaques to the first 75 entries. Registration 8:30-10:30. Show 9-3. Registration $15. Registration includes 1 free admission to the AACA Museum. Contact, Larry DiBarry 717-263-3804, dibarjo@hotmail.com or Dick Beckley 717-395-7128. dbeckley@epix.net
  12. I too was mortified when my father had to drive "The only Loaner car" our Buick dealer would provide when we had our 63 Skylark in for service. The pink 58 Special sedan. My dad had to drive it to the bank when he made night deposits from the A&P.
  13. Yes Tom. And at that price I fear a "hot rodder" will be the only one to attempt to finish it. Look for some posts later for chassis and engine components for a 1937 special. Sadly I have seen this scenario many times. Someone puts a lot of money in to a project at the start and for whatever reason it becomes a stalled effort left to decay for decades. To do a credible accurate restoration will be in the $100K+ realm. In the 1936-38 Torque tube Magazine there is a similar project with much more done to it. As well as a freshly restored 1937-40C Phaeton for around $66,000. I had to pass on a 1937 40C Phaeton done by one of our Mason-Dixon members. It had won just about every award for AACA and the BCA in the late 1980s and early 1990s. To me it was still a stunning car. He always told people he had put over $250 K in it's restoration. It sold at his estate sale for $40,000.
  14. Jim: I will look as I have many 1920s Radio switches of this style nickel plated.
  15. Ben: Yes things look more crowded on your earlier 4 cylinder than on either of my 6s. where the packing nut is concerned. Plenty of room to unscrew the nuts to add packing on both my 1925s . With bearings and couplings pulled back prior to removal. My advice since you have gone this far is to remove the entire pump and have a new stainless shaft and new bushings made. See the thread Mark Kikta has about his 1922 water pump. This is what your pumps shaft probably looks like... These shaft surfaces should be perfectly smooth. To get your front cover off. You must remove the pulley nut first and use a gear puller to remove the pulley. I had done this already on my 1925 Standard WHILE THE RADIATOR WAS STILL IN PLACE. I was able to use forked wedges to get behind the pulley to drive it off uniformly. I did this to replace the original leaking felt seal with a modern lip seal. It works great . No leaks. Photo is from another forum posters car. Except 6 months later the head developed an oil leak so I jumped into a full rebuild. I am about at the same point with my 1925 Master. (The timing gear needs replaced.) I will have to disconnect my exhaust down pipe, loosen the engine mount to the frame bolts. Then, when I disconnect the front engine mount bolts on the crank stub I can raise the engine a bit to clear the frame . Best Of Luck!