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dibarlaw last won the day on August 6 2018

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About dibarlaw

  • Birthday 09/02/1955

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  1. Thank you John: Joan and I were a little bruised and shaken up but we are fine. I can't say the same for Lucy.
  2. Sorry to say this will be the last weekend drive for "LUCY" our 1937. We got T-Boned coming from our Mason-Dixon Chapter picnic yesterday.
  3. I have had several people say they have them but no confirmation as yet. REAR DRUM SPECS. O.D. 14" I.D. 13 5/8" Depth 2 1/2" Hub Bore 4 27/32" Bolt circle 6 3/4" According to the 1929 Master Parts Book.... Part #184606 is for... 1923-41-44-45 1924-41-44-45 1925-40-44-45 1926-40-44-45-47 1927-Series 120 1928-Series 120 and 128
  4. Still looking... I have had several say they have what I need but no confirmation as yet. REAR DRUM SPECS. O.D. 14" I.D. 13 5/8" Depth 2 1/2" Hub Bore 4 27/32" Bolt circle 6 3/4"
  5. Wow ! That is great that it is so close! I ordered mine from McMaster-Carr here in the USA. It was about the same price as yours. The problem with my experience is that they shipped the 12" square sheet in a large box. It was already packaged in a stout carboard package. A bit heavier that a 12" LP record album mailer. That was placed in a 10"X 14"X 18" box. It cost more to ship than the cost of the item!
  6. ribama: I can see that indeed the vacuum tank is correct for your car. The fuel filter bowl is a very common device. May just need cleaned and a new gasket. There are many out there. Some have a stone filter element. Example of a glass bowl filter below a tank on a 1926-45A. If it has a round brass screen placed flat up inside that can be made I have lots of screen! I did my Fuel tank pick up and carb bowl filters. As to starting another thread. I would move things to the Pre War Buick site or Me and My Buic. I think you will find more help on the Pre-War.
  7. ribama: I thought there was a photo of the 4 cyl engine in the 1924 catalog but only images were of the 6. Here is a photo of the 1924-35. Left Hand Drive. It shows a vacuum tank similar to yours mounted on the manifolds. I am sure others will chime in on your project.
  8. Looks to be the Master 6 Brougham Sedan Model 51. Originally body color may have been "Highway Gray". Catalog shows more of an Olive green color.
  9. Mike: If you have a McLaughlin Buick then you can have an extended pallet. As McLaughlin did offer paint options. Most of these coupes did show up in Black Cobalt blue or Maroon was also very popular. Most detachable items as the spash shields, fenders and mud pans were black baked enamel. As was the radiator shell. But there again a McLaughlin may have had a nickeled shell.
  10. ribama: Welcome to our Buick world! Lots of help here. edmass is the man for doing things correctly. The vacuum tank you show in your photos may be for an earlier car. I am pretty sure the 1924 4 cylinder cars use the same as my 1925 Standard 6. Stewart 215-A Someone can check who has a 1924 Book of Parts. Unless it is an export variation.
  11. Tom: Just for speculation what are the rear brake drums for? I have been in need of a ROUND non-scored and not-warped drums for my 1925 Master. Below are the specs as some 1923 models use the same drum. I bought the other 2 model 268 S/Gs from you. That was before I bought my 1925 Master and now I have 3 spares. My 1925 Master has a real badly warped rear drum. Any leads on a good drum? This one is about 3/16 out of round and very worn on the inside. Interchanges with many 40 series models from 1923-1928 Apparently, the previous owner drove the car quite a bit with only one wheel doing any braking. Using the E brake. I rebuilt the front brakes as most of the actuator assembly was frozen and broken internal return springs. REAR DRUM SPECS. O.D. 14" I.D. 13 5/8" Depth 2 1/2" Hub Bore 4 27/32" Bolt circle 6 3/4" According to the 1929 Master Parts Book.... Part #184606 is for... 1923-41-44-45 1924-41-44-45 1925-40-44-45 1926-40-44-45-47 1927-Series 120 1928-Series 120 and 128 Best regards: Larry DiBarry 717-263-3804
  12. I am not familiar with the earlier Buick manifold set up but I do know the 1925 Standard and Master engine as well as the 1937 248 engine. As I stated before the pilot rings only are on the cooler, less susseptable to warp intake manifolds. The exhaust with wide temp variation has none on them. The second set I replaced on my 1937.
  13. Matt: We are all pulling for you to overcome the obstacles the engine is putting up. I do not know how many times I had to leave the garage before my hand would go for a big hammer and "have at it" on my car. The first thing I did on my 1937 Buick when I pulled the pan and scoop out the sludge was to rebuild the oil pump. At the time (1988) I could still get new gears. It is nice after all these years to still have 45 lbs of pressure. You have commented about the journey with my 1925 Standard since you had personal experiences with one. That also has been a one step forward and 2 steps back situation. Take a break... cup of coffee...... or something stronger ......
  14. TerryB: Thank you for your explanations. I will go over the system again with my digital multimeter now that I know what values to be looking for. I do have a capacitor checker that I have used for my radio work. But just like all my other equipment it is vintage and would need calibrated. Also it would be helpfull if originally the required microfarad designations were stated in the systems diagrams. Also marked on the case of the very generic looking condensers.
  15. The coil I had been using on my 1925 Buick was a Central Tractor 6 Volt from China. All marked "no external resistance required". Assuming it has an internal ballast. The original Delco style has a porcelain form with a wire wound ballast resistor. One like this was not on the car at the time but the modern made in China version. Of the 2 decent original coils I have this ballast measures between 2 and 3 ohms. So I checked several other suppliers and they all seemed to carry the same unit at much higher prices. When I got my 1925 Master I replaced the functioning original Delco with the same type modern coil. I had a New, never used Epoxy case BIG A 6 Volt made in Texas (no external resistance required) and installed it in my Standard after the engine rebuild. Everything seemed to be fine but after a 20 mile run the coil was HOT! (Coil is mounted up behind the dash not in the engine compartment). It felt hot enough to burn you. I know the original design with the exposed resistor created much heat in dropping the voltage to the points. I replaced with another C/T china unit. After a 140 mile run it was uncomfotably warm. I believe I could live with that but I am always burning points. (expensive ones) I have replaced the condensor 3 times. Anyone else have this experience?
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