dibarlaw

Tom: I am sure that the 29 has a different inside diameter but the design would be similar. These retrofit units have been done for all years of Buick fan hubs. Page 159-160 in "BUICK TECHNICAL TIPS" Tech articles from the Buick Bugle show how this is done and illustration shows V belt design as well as the flat belt.

If will not be a tour car the lip seal should last a long time if the bearing surfaces are not that sloppy. Since I drive my 1925s I wanted the sealed units. It is a lot of work to do these! I made 3 so far. Just the amount of aluminum scrap generated turning down the hub core is intimidating.

Walt: That is the shade of Cobalt Blue that is to be on my 1925-45 Touring car. Someday maybe......I had asked Jessy for the formula for years but not yet. Out in the sun it appears much lighter. The restoration plan on this Model 40 was to do the stripped and varnished spokes. All these cars came with painted spokes done in body color. This is all I have done so far. Also the factory catalog images show all the cars with the double whitewalls. Pushing the new Balloon tires in their sales imaging. Basicly all the images below are the same as 1924 catalog illustrations with a bit of touch up on the wheels/tires. Cars that were originally black in 1924 stayed black in the 1925 catalog. Early 1925 production cars stayed black and then when production switched to DUCO the Master Touring went to cobalt blue and the standard touring to brewster Green. The model 49 was to be a darker Limosine Blue.

Comparisons at the time for my 1937 Buick special as an example. There was also similar comparisons to Studebaker, Dodge, Nash and the Lincoln Zepher.

Thanks all: I will forward to Rob.

Hey.... That is my unit in the 1925 Master. Except it now shows 21066 miles and appears to be spot on as far as calibration! Hugh is the AC Guru!

Wilson: Great that you have the holders! The 2 #170548s are both right side mount. The only diffrernce is that the access to the binding screw head is going to be awkward since it will be facing front when mounted on the left side. Notice the bolt head is to the rear on my car. Get us a photo of what your gypsy side mounting area looks like. On the 1925-55 period photo below there apears to be another strap in adittion to the holders.

My friend who is in the midst of rebuilding his 1927 engine has been studying his timing diagram he has concerns about errors on the duration of valve opening and closing. Or was that just how they designed it. He was the person who bought the 1925-49 cobbleation with a variety of changes including a 1927 engine, radiator, headlights, a 1930s style top and bad body wood. But it did have wire wheels. He is turning it into some sort of Speedster. He is rebuilding the 1927 Engine and is stumped by the cam timing. He has had it reground and new aluminum pistons. He has been studying the timing diagram for the 1927 and is concerned things are not correct. I do not have reference to the 1927 diagrams. I only have the 1925 Standard and Master diagrams. New computer here so my scanner has not made friends with it yet so I do not have a scan of my diagrams for comparisons. I thought I would post the question on the forum for him.

Neat photo showing this Buick hard at work towing a trailer. 1925 Buick Model 40 2 door sedan. Below: John Scheib and Jessy Morton at the 2011 BCA meet. Dispay of cars restored at Jessy's shop.

I will be trying to get some more miles on the car before making a final decision. As to how things evolved. I think the previous owner did an overhaul when resurected back in the 1960s -1970s. Very sporatic use over the next 30 years. Probably not accumulating more that several hundred miles in that time, then left to sit for nearly 10 years. We got the car running for the family in 2013 after the owner passed in 2012. They ran the car a bit with probably not an hour on the engine untill they sold it to me in September 2016. Since my last post I have put on another 6 miles since I pulled the extra pint of oil out. At the same time I had changed out the Oil/Amp gage since the gage was leaking. On this gage the pointer was at 5lbs. so now the pressure is showing 28lbs. The old leaking gage that would zero at rest was showing 22lbs. I had the oil pump rebuilt and installed a new screen as well as resoldering the joints of the oil delivery manifold. Now very little noticeable blow by smoke coming out of the road draft (there had been a lot before) and no excesive drips of oil. But I have kept it down to no faster than 35 mph. Stay Tuned.....

EmTee: No, our local friend Peter Rambis who lives in central PA. along the Susquehana river. He has some late 1920s chassis laying around and has his last... 1927-54.(over the years he has had 3). This is the car I did an article on that appeared in the Buick Bugle.

This shows up after we did a trip to see my daughter who lives near Indiana, PA. That was last Tuesday-Wednesday. We passed within 5 miles of Loretto.

PK: I am dealing with the restoration of one of the mid to late 1920s YANKEE units specified as an accessory for Buicks. I had friend do a plastic BUICK lens for the top. His wife does craft stuff on her "CRICKET". BOB'S Automobila Buick parts used to stock these but a friend bought all he had. He also says he has the correct lens' for the left and right. It may be years before he finds them for me. As it has been years since he said he woud get me one of the BUICK lens. What an original looks like.

Nick: I would try our friend Peter. See if he has a better pan.

My 1925 Standard with the rests. I had the boot made for this car but it fits the Master much better