edinmass

It was copied from a car that was done incorrectly years before...(1950's).......strange situation that was understandable in a one off application.............fortunately we knew what the factory wanted on a standard application car..............deciding to tear it apart to test it was not an easy call. Working on 100 year old cars means you can trust NOTHING........you must prove every system and component to make them run as new. With one off's and prototype cars you can get into strange situations. In the end it was a straight forward and easy fix.......the time it took to get it all done was the worse part of the job.

Great photos......I wouldn't have walked the entire thing if I knew you were going to post all the cars!

300 amp starting at 12 volts.................it's easy to pull 800 amps on a six volt big car............I won't get into voltage drop under load to the coils when cranking for extended periods of time............

One sold at Hershey this year at RM. They are interesting assembled cars from St Louis. Like Moon and Ruxton.

I don't wish to be impolite.........but the car should be easy to diagnose and repair. I have never seen an overheating car that took me more than three hours to figure out what was wrong. Too many guesses and what if's. Go through the system, step by step, its either right or its not. Recently fixed an overheating issue on a big early car that had been to three shops...........I started from scratch, went through the car, and came up with a conclusion in under two hours, then spent 25 hours proving my diagnosis.........that was the difficult part...........PROVE scientifically what is wrong, then fix it, and CONTINUE to test until all aspects are operating at 100 percent. Today too many people are afraid to get into the project, do actual work, and fix it. It takes time and money........today both are hard to come by. The car I fixed that was in several other shops had a new radiator...........installed incorrectly and would only flow 26 percent of stock..........no one was willing to pull apart a 100 point car, and properly test it to determine if the new radiator was functioning correctly.........it wasn't. Simple to figure out.......if you're not worried about time...........

There was a Diesel racer built and run in Indy in 1922 if I am not mistaken. They ran a catylatic converter to knock down the smell and smoke.

Vacuum tanks will click when the float opens and closes.........a good Cadillac tuned correctly will have the idle hunt up and down slightly when the tank is filling.

I'll probably get stepped on.........but having run a J and a 1929 Blowen Mercedes side by side on the open road...........at high speeds...........the J smokes the Mercedes..........

Mike.......I get your point. I have seen switches fail after long term use from high amperage draw............not many switches handle 800 or more amps well over time. I recommend carrying a spare if you drive a lot.

John......you were correct that the ones that don’t require choke get very poor fuel mileage! And the mixture control is terrible. We use to comment that pouring raw gas into the engine from an old boot would be a better fuel delivery device than a Cadillac Johnson carburetor.

Doesn’t look like the “real” one that was in the states in the 80’s and is now back in Europe. That was an assembled car from factory floor sweepings. This car looks way too small, and most of the details are way off........the story board is nothing but misdirection.

Peter....you are correct!

Your welcome!

Yes, usually used in sets of four, to stop tires getting flat spots. Most cars didn't use antifreeze, so they were put up for the winter......on hub jacks.

They are wheel hub jack stands......for very early cars. Best guess is pre 1920. They are NOT heavy duty, and I would not use them to service the car. Neat garage item or wall hanger........value, less than 100 for the pair. Good luck. Ed