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dibarlaw

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Everything posted by dibarlaw

  1. ribama: I can see that indeed the vacuum tank is correct for your car. The fuel filter bowl is a very common device. May just need cleaned and a new gasket. There are many out there. Some have a stone filter element. Example of a glass bowl filter below a tank on a 1926-45A. If it has a round brass screen placed flat up inside that can be made I have lots of screen! I did my Fuel tank pick up and carb bowl filters. As to starting another thread. I would move things to the Pre War Buick site or Me and My Buic. I think you will find more help on the Pre-War.
  2. ribama: I thought there was a photo of the 4 cyl engine in the 1924 catalog but only images were of the 6. Here is a photo of the 1924-35. Left Hand Drive. It shows a vacuum tank similar to yours mounted on the manifolds. I am sure others will chime in on your project.
  3. Looks to be the Master 6 Brougham Sedan Model 51. Originally body color may have been "Highway Gray". Catalog shows more of an Olive green color.
  4. Mike: If you have a McLaughlin Buick then you can have an extended pallet. As McLaughlin did offer paint options. Most of these coupes did show up in Black Cobalt blue or Maroon was also very popular. Most detachable items as the spash shields, fenders and mud pans were black baked enamel. As was the radiator shell. But there again a McLaughlin may have had a nickeled shell.
  5. ribama: Welcome to our Buick world! Lots of help here. edmass is the man for doing things correctly. The vacuum tank you show in your photos may be for an earlier car. I am pretty sure the 1924 4 cylinder cars use the same as my 1925 Standard 6. Stewart 215-A Someone can check who has a 1924 Book of Parts. Unless it is an export variation.
  6. Tom: Just for speculation what are the rear brake drums for? I have been in need of a ROUND non-scored and not-warped drums for my 1925 Master. Below are the specs as some 1923 models use the same drum. I bought the other 2 model 268 S/Gs from you. That was before I bought my 1925 Master and now I have 3 spares. My 1925 Master has a real badly warped rear drum. Any leads on a good drum? This one is about 3/16 out of round and very worn on the inside. Interchanges with many 40 series models from 1923-1928 Apparently, the previous owner drove the car quite a bit with only one wheel doing any braking. Using the E brake. I rebuilt the front brakes as most of the actuator assembly was frozen and broken internal return springs. REAR DRUM SPECS. O.D. 14" I.D. 13 5/8" Depth 2 1/2" Hub Bore 4 27/32" Bolt circle 6 3/4" According to the 1929 Master Parts Book.... Part #184606 is for... 1923-41-44-45 1924-41-44-45 1925-40-44-45 1926-40-44-45-47 1927-Series 120 1928-Series 120 and 128 Best regards: Larry DiBarry 717-263-3804
  7. I am not familiar with the earlier Buick manifold set up but I do know the 1925 Standard and Master engine as well as the 1937 248 engine. As I stated before the pilot rings only are on the cooler, less susseptable to warp intake manifolds. The exhaust with wide temp variation has none on them. The second set I replaced on my 1937.
  8. Matt: We are all pulling for you to overcome the obstacles the engine is putting up. I do not know how many times I had to leave the garage before my hand would go for a big hammer and "have at it" on my car. The first thing I did on my 1937 Buick when I pulled the pan and scoop out the sludge was to rebuild the oil pump. At the time (1988) I could still get new gears. It is nice after all these years to still have 45 lbs of pressure. You have commented about the journey with my 1925 Standard since you had personal experiences with one. That also has been a one step forward and 2 steps back situation. Take a break... cup of coffee...... or something stronger ......
  9. TerryB: Thank you for your explanations. I will go over the system again with my digital multimeter now that I know what values to be looking for. I do have a capacitor checker that I have used for my radio work. But just like all my other equipment it is vintage and would need calibrated. Also it would be helpfull if originally the required microfarad designations were stated in the systems diagrams. Also marked on the case of the very generic looking condensers.
  10. The coil I had been using on my 1925 Buick was a Central Tractor 6 Volt from China. All marked "no external resistance required". Assuming it has an internal ballast. The original Delco style has a porcelain form with a wire wound ballast resistor. One like this was not on the car at the time but the modern made in China version. Of the 2 decent original coils I have this ballast measures between 2 and 3 ohms. So I checked several other suppliers and they all seemed to carry the same unit at much higher prices. When I got my 1925 Master I replaced the functioning original Delco with the same type modern coil. I had a New, never used Epoxy case BIG A 6 Volt made in Texas (no external resistance required) and installed it in my Standard after the engine rebuild. Everything seemed to be fine but after a 20 mile run the coil was HOT! (Coil is mounted up behind the dash not in the engine compartment). It felt hot enough to burn you. I know the original design with the exposed resistor created much heat in dropping the voltage to the points. I replaced with another C/T china unit. After a 140 mile run it was uncomfotably warm. I believe I could live with that but I am always burning points. (expensive ones) I have replaced the condensor 3 times. Anyone else have this experience?
  11. Tom; Is that the neighbor that I met who bought your nice 1923 model 49 to? (that I should have bought)
  12. Bloo: I have another switch laying around so I may pull that apart to verify.
  13. Gary: Even after rebuilding the switch mine does the same thing. The drivers side goes out. I usually drive at night with the switch pulled fully out and the high beam on so I have both lights on. How my switch was. Those darn triangle contacts! I filled the burned areas with epoxy and polished the contacts.
  14. I tried to save image, copy image to my desk top so I could flip the image. It does not show up..
  15. Steve: Glad to see you are on the forum! We need accounts of your adventures with your 1925. After nearly 10 years of ownership and constant fighting with my 25-25 I have finally been able to take some longer trips. Stll even after new radiator, clutch, engine rebuild and on and on there always seems to be another issue to sideline us. At the AACA museum cruise-in after 68 mile drive. It would not start! It "took the Village" to raise it into cooperating for the trip back home. But nearly 140 miles round trip and running for over 2 1/2 hours continuously each way we are making progress.
  16. Gary: Yes, that is what mine look like on the Model 41. Not as pretty as yours though!
  17. Looks to be a 1927 Auburn 8-77 Sport Sedan.
  18. Don: : The 4" of sludge on my 1937 taught me to do the same on my 1925s. My 1937 was still being drivern reguarly in the 1970s and 1980s I still thought better to drop the pan and found the swampy mess to clean out. Plasticgaged the bearings and rebuilt the oil pump.The damaged timing gear on my 1925s prompted me to do the same. Trying to pick out all the crumbs of the fiber gear that gets sent thru the engine. The car had been "restored"..... more of a fix up and overhaul in the 1960s thru the 1970s. I do not know what maintainence was done afterward as the car was still being run up to 2012. I assumed I could just change out the oil. When I dropped that pan there was only 3" of sludge! Good thing I did that on the Master as I found that I had to repair the screen on the oil pump pick up. I found that the oil pump driven gear shaft coupling pin was just about to shear off! I made a new pin from drill rod At the same time I had new bushing made for the pump shaft to housing and lapped my cover plate. I will guarentee that the 1933 "REBUILD" on your 1920's engine was probably in the order of an overhaul. Which entailed new rings, valve job and possibly taking up the bearings. Unless documented of what machine work was done, I would assume the engine to just be overhauled. Many little Gremlis can be lurking as I have found out.
  19. Just as a side note all these Buick 4 cylinder coupes are a tight fit for us on the portly side. The original seller was I believe over 300 lbs. though. He had it for over 40 years and only drove it once he got it running again. That was about 100 yards from his storage building to where he had it for sale along the Lincoln Highway the summer of 2015.
  20. Frank: First ...Yes there should be ring compression gaskets for the plugs. There is also a timing adjustment on the fork that pulls the starter brush pin out and simeltaniously engage the starter pinion to the ring gear. I would make sure everything is clean and lubed up first. Could be just some binding. Smaller fork pulls the starter pin. Larger engages the starter pinion.(sliding gear) The inside fork is on a threaded shaft for adjustment. The outside Starter pin fork can be spun around since it is set screwed to the threaded shaft changing timing distance. Timming..... Ignition switch on.....Starter motors..... turning starter pinion slowly.... depress starter pedal to engage pinion with flywheel. At least half of pinion engagement before starter pin is pulled and starter brushes give the high torque to turn the engine over. On my engine the starter was spining before full engagement of the pinion. This should engage with a light toe/foot pressure. Starter pinion on top. Sliding gear assembly below with chanel for the fork. My sliding gears were pretty chewed from miss-timing. Where the starter tower and fork mechanisim live. Looking from the engine compartment back. Nut that holds the inspection cover for the gears. Fork pivot housing looking from the passenger side toward engine. Many little places to keep oiled.
  21. jrj2: Note that hugh shows the pilots only on the intake manifold. Our Standard pilot bores are 1/3/8". My 1925 Master pilot bores are 1 5/8". "Bob's" shows catalog Pilot Ring # MP-362 for 1925-30 Master series at $3.25 each. The exhaust manifold is not counterbored for the pilot rings. The exhaust manifold expands and contracts at a greater rate making pilots impractial. Many use a graphite paste to coat the exhaust sections of the gasket set before installing to allow them to move a bit.
  22. Nickelroadster: I had ridden in one of these Oldsmobile Sport touring cars not a V-8 as yours but a 4 cyl. during the VMCCA Nickel Tour near Orange VA. in 2016. Something in the distributer broke and put us on the side of the road. Comming down off the Blue Ridge parkway the rearend sounded like a cement mixer. The car did not finish the tour.
  23. Thanks again but I know the needed drum is.... REAR DRUM SPECS. O.D. 14" I.D. 13 5/8" Depth 2 1/2" Hub Bore 4 27/32" Bolt circle 6 3/4" Having the 1925 Standard Touring has helped in being aquainted with various parts and assemblies and comparing to the Master.. Unfortunately hardly anything interchanges between the two model series. At Hershey for example I could Identify 1920s Buick parts from 20 feet away but at less than 10 feet I may be able to tell if it is a Master or Standard by size.
  24. Thank you Leon. Interesting set up. I know with the Flint 1925 Buick Group # 6.518 just the steering column jacket has 7 different lengths depending on application. Which entailed the same compliment of internals special for each one. Could have been that the adjustible column could have eliminated all those special lengths with one design. Those Buick engineers needed job security.
  25. I emailed Fred since the ones nickleroadster had were for a Standard. I thank those who have been looking for me!
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