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dibarlaw

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Everything posted by dibarlaw

  1. Agreed that this looks very original as to the details with some obvious work being done. I would love one of these 3 window coupes. But from my experience the $14,900 is just an entrance fee. It appears to be in similar condition as my 1937-41 was when I bought it in 1987. Price at that time was $2,750. I was impressed that this 1936 still has the metal gaiters on the rear springs. (When I redid my springs we removed the partialy rusted original gaiters.) With my car it only took me 27 years to get it to a point that it was a reliable driver. 2 of those years sorting and resorting to work out "Gremlins" from the 6 months at a restoration shop to work it up into a promised "Driver". They estimated it would take around $10,000 to be a reliable driver. When the bills totaled over $20,000 we had to end the relationship. In the 1936 descriptor it indicates this would be a good parade car. My need was to have a car to drive to the BCA nationals. Which I did in 2013, 2016, 2017. Doing sometimes a 3000 mile round trip. As deac said "I hope it goes to someone who will appreciate it and preserve it".
  2. Thanks Jon: I can understand if I had not adressed the vacuum tank shut off valve and left it open as to the dripping at the carb from a bad needle valve. Also that I ran the engine with the valve closed untill the carb was dry. My 1925 Buick Standard with the similar set up did this also. In my frustration with that car I installed an extra ball valve before the carb. To garnetkid's response the Vacuum tank holds about 3/4 gallon on the Master.
  3. Need some brain storming on a persistent fuel issue on my 1925 Master. Dripping from carb..... Sometimes ..... Last time overnight over a pint of fuel in the catch can I kept on the floor below the air horn. And the vacuum tank is partially drained. While the engine is running the tank is cycling. I have a visible glass inline filter to verify this. When shutting down the engine. I have shut off the fuel valve first and waited about a minute until the engine stumbles and then shut off ignition. What I have done. All heat has been eliminated from the riser. I made plugs and blanking plates and gaskets. Vacuum tank shut off valve was reworked so that it now shuts OFF. The male double compression fitting was replaced and is now no longer leaking. The main fuel line was replaced since it split where it was turning up from the frame to the vacuum tank. The float is a nitrophil one from Gregg Lange. Set 1/8" below main jet. Questions: Could the tank valve be defective and back cycling directly into the manifold? Residual vacuum still pulling from tank? The previous owner's son indicated that they replaced the steel sleeve in the riser. At that time, they also had the vacuum tank rebuilt. At this point I am not sure of the quality of the riser fix. If during operation, is fuel being pulled into the chamber around the inner sleeve? That may contain the volume of fuel found in the catch can. Just some straws I am grasping at. I would love to walk into my garage and not be greeted by the fragrance of gasoline.
  4. Oldtech: The car in question is a great example of an unmolested time capsule. The original upholstery is in wonderful condition.
  5. Morgan: On the 1910-10 I asked when I first responded to his "Wanting this to go a Buick loving home" sale request through the local regional BCA chapters, does it have a top? He replied in the affirmative. We talked for several weeks before he would give us a day to inspect the car. If all he said was true I would have considered the $20,000 starting price. The day we met was a lovely 95 degree, high humidity in early September. Yuck! His son, my wife Joan and I had to push the car out of the "hot box" trailer to get better photos in daylight. We were dripping in sweat. I asked where was the top? He said it never had a top! I pointed out that it had all the required hardware. Nope.... never had a top...After pointing out the incorrect components.... 1911 Radiator, Incorrect front axle, spark/throttle control and some other items and the missing top plus he said that it would be running when we got there. No attempt was made to prepare it to run and it had not run for at least 6 years. This was in 2016. I offered $15,000 and he appeared to be insulted. From my last contact to the family after the owner had passed in 2018 they still have the car.
  6. I believe this is what Fred is selling. Sorry for the pixeled image
  7. Tom: My gage was missing on my 1925-25 Standard Touring. I had to buy a complete 1927 tank just to get the gage. Others have done a better job of restoring the gage face. I used the nitrophill float from a Model A Ford supplier.
  8. Don: Thank you so much. I will forward this to Steve.
  9. Over the years I have seen restored examples go for in the $60,000 price range. Most had started out asking $75K. As much as I have always wanted to have an early brass Buick, just to do enough to be a driver with "patina" you would be into it for another $20K. Like so many other period car restorations in this day, one would need to invest $200,000+to have the car be worth $60,000. In MY Opinion..... I have chased about 15 Brass Buicks for the the last 13 years. My favorite experience was the one closest to me in VA. The 96 year old owner wanted to start at $20,000 and "Dicker UP"? He had done an interpretive restoration of a 1910 Model 10 runabout. (Somewhat less in power than the 1910 Model 19 in question.) Nicely painted and upholstered but with mismatched components and it did not run as he promised it would be at the time of inspection. It had been sitting in a box truck for over 6 years. After the owner had passed I tried to contact his son (who does not drive) and tried to negogtiate a purchase. He would not consider selling since he was afraid that a future owner may HOT ROD it!
  10. Oldtech: That is how I had anticipated they came off. Of course since they are die-cast it may be swolen and can only be broken off now. There was a supplier in Australia who was doing Stainless steel repros. Steve had attempted to contact them and so far no word back.
  11. Friend Steve with the original 1927-27 Sedan is trying to get some copies of interior handle and window cranks cast here in Pennsylvania. (Recent fender bender accident.) I only have open cars and those handles are quite easy to service. This style of handles. (Photo of a 1928 Model 58.) I have a 1929 or 1930 Fisher Body Service Manual and it shows the internal assemblys but nothing on how to remove the handles. It does mention the use of special tools but does not identify. Steve mentions using a spanner wrench but what he is using is not small enough or thin enough.
  12. I am not aware of the original design of the pump but I think the driving shaft may have been cut and the hose collar and bolts may have been added at a later date. This was done on many early distributer driven pump shafts. Easier to remove than taking out more components. Then add a connecting collar and either it was pinned or bolted. My 1925 Buick's design.
  13. Hugh: I can testify that these are hardened. I had to surface grind about .020 from mine to get the starter to work again after making my new waterpump shaft. The coupling pin placement on the end of the shaft threw the positioning off. Easier to adapt the Oldham piece than remove the pump and redrill.
  14. Before assembly of the transmission to engine check the pilot bushing clearance in the the end of the crankshaft. I am sure some of my clutch chatter originates from mine being too loose.
  15. Betty Davis in "The Bride Came COD". I believe it was a 1915 Buick model 55.
  16. Glad to know us 1920s Buick people are not the only ones with the crumbling pot metal issue.
  17. There should be timing marks on the generator gear to match up with the cam gear. The 1927 Shop Manual will show this along with the timing proceedure..
  18. Budd: Make sure battery is disconnected before taking off cover!! Easy to cause a short. After removal you can reconnect the battery. Did you give me a call on Sunday? Terry Wiegand said that someone with a 1923-45 had an inoperable starter issue and got in touch with him. Terry gave him my number. Switch points could be the issue within the Delco switch. Particuarly if it has not been rebuilt. Motoring is when switch points 1,2 and 3 are connected. The diagram below should be pretty similar to a 1923 including the switch.
  19. Morgan: The style of wheels we have on the 1924-1925 and up into the early 30s has a metal feloe with pre punched holes for the round ends of the spokes.
  20. Hugh: Good to hear of your success! Thanks for the call to verify my suspicions. The right side inner brake on my car was also not seating on the square block. That spring should pull it tight at rest. May take some adjustment of the actuator shaft. That is the side that the band hold down plate with the countersunk screw (1/2"-20 thread)heon mine I was not able to get out. I tried to drill it out but I just wore out drills. The left side screw I was able to drill out without damaging the threads and made a new screw. There is a gasket on my hub and I believe there should be one for this also. This was a 1/64" thick gasket. In the photo showing the .020 Brass washer to take up the space from the bottom of the bore being a bit chewed up from the old failed bearing. The shedder and seal arrangement is the same as what is on my wood wheels.
  21. These were the correct 22" wheels for my 1925 Standard I bought from a Bend Oregon hot rod project. In the photo, the wheels are in Mark Shaw's Buick Barn in Vancouver Wash. prior to him shipping them to me in PA. I had taken many photos of the restoration process being done. These had 3 coats of paint. Cream, Light Blue and the original Cobalt Blue (there were some remnants of the gold feloe stripe and spoke striping). My camera SD card became corrupted and now the photos are gone. I did do some sandblasting on the metal parts. My account may be floating around on the Buick Pre-War Forum site somewhere. The completed painted (Brewster Green) and striped set still waiting to replace the 21" ones now on the car.
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