dibarlaw

Over the years I have seen restored examples go for in the $60,000 price range. Most had started out asking $75K. As much as I have always wanted to have an early brass Buick, just to do enough to be a driver with "patina" you would be into it for another $20K. Like so many other period car restorations in this day, one would need to invest $200,000+to have the car be worth $60,000. In MY Opinion..... I have chased about 15 Brass Buicks for the the last 13 years. My favorite experience was the one closest to me in VA. The 96 year old owner wanted to start at $20,000 and "Dicker UP"? He had done an interpretive restoration of a 1910 Model 10 runabout. (Somewhat less in power than the 1910 Model 19 in question.) Nicely painted and upholstered but with mismatched components and it did not run as he promised it would be at the time of inspection. It had been sitting in a box truck for over 6 years. After the owner had passed I tried to contact his son (who does not drive) and tried to negogtiate a purchase. He would not consider selling since he was afraid that a future owner may HOT ROD it!

Oldtech: That is how I had anticipated they came off. Of course since they are die-cast it may be swolen and can only be broken off now. There was a supplier in Australia who was doing Stainless steel repros. Steve had attempted to contact them and so far no word back.

Friend Steve with the original 1927-27 Sedan is trying to get some copies of interior handle and window cranks cast here in Pennsylvania. (Recent fender bender accident.) I only have open cars and those handles are quite easy to service. This style of handles. (Photo of a 1928 Model 58.) I have a 1929 or 1930 Fisher Body Service Manual and it shows the internal assemblys but nothing on how to remove the handles. It does mention the use of special tools but does not identify. Steve mentions using a spanner wrench but what he is using is not small enough or thin enough.

I am not aware of the original design of the pump but I think the driving shaft may have been cut and the hose collar and bolts may have been added at a later date. This was done on many early distributer driven pump shafts. Easier to remove than taking out more components. Then add a connecting collar and either it was pinned or bolted. My 1925 Buick's design.

Hugh: I can testify that these are hardened. I had to surface grind about .020 from mine to get the starter to work again after making my new waterpump shaft. The coupling pin placement on the end of the shaft threw the positioning off. Easier to adapt the Oldham piece than remove the pump and redrill.

Before assembly of the transmission to engine check the pilot bushing clearance in the the end of the crankshaft. I am sure some of my clutch chatter originates from mine being too loose.

But I think this Chevrolet only identifies as a 1929 Ford.....

Betty Davis in "The Bride Came COD". I believe it was a 1915 Buick model 55.

Glad to know us 1920s Buick people are not the only ones with the crumbling pot metal issue.

There should be timing marks on the generator gear to match up with the cam gear. The 1927 Shop Manual will show this along with the timing proceedure..

Budd: Make sure battery is disconnected before taking off cover!! Easy to cause a short. After removal you can reconnect the battery. Did you give me a call on Sunday? Terry Wiegand said that someone with a 1923-45 had an inoperable starter issue and got in touch with him. Terry gave him my number. Switch points could be the issue within the Delco switch. Particuarly if it has not been rebuilt. Motoring is when switch points 1,2 and 3 are connected. The diagram below should be pretty similar to a 1923 including the switch.

Morgan: The style of wheels we have on the 1924-1925 and up into the early 30s has a metal feloe with pre punched holes for the round ends of the spokes.

Hugh: Good to hear of your success! Thanks for the call to verify my suspicions. The right side inner brake on my car was also not seating on the square block. That spring should pull it tight at rest. May take some adjustment of the actuator shaft. That is the side that the band hold down plate with the countersunk screw (1/2"-20 thread)heon mine I was not able to get out. I tried to drill it out but I just wore out drills. The left side screw I was able to drill out without damaging the threads and made a new screw. There is a gasket on my hub and I believe there should be one for this also. This was a 1/64" thick gasket. In the photo showing the .020 Brass washer to take up the space from the bottom of the bore being a bit chewed up from the old failed bearing. The shedder and seal arrangement is the same as what is on my wood wheels.

These were the correct 22" wheels for my 1925 Standard I bought from a Bend Oregon hot rod project. In the photo, the wheels are in Mark Shaw's Buick Barn in Vancouver Wash. prior to him shipping them to me in PA. I had taken many photos of the restoration process being done. These had 3 coats of paint. Cream, Light Blue and the original Cobalt Blue (there were some remnants of the gold feloe stripe and spoke striping). My camera SD card became corrupted and now the photos are gone. I did do some sandblasting on the metal parts. My account may be floating around on the Buick Pre-War Forum site somewhere. The completed painted (Brewster Green) and striped set still waiting to replace the 21" ones now on the car.

Hugh: My friend Peter with the 1927 Master Sport Roadster said that the hub as you show with the 6 nuts removed should pull straight out like on my wooden wheel set up. So as Bob indicates there may be other issues. As I showed previously my right rear wheel I had to use a puller since the parking brake band was interfearing with the worn undercut inside diameter that left a ridge inside the drum. I believe that instead of the wood wheel hub bore encasing the entire depth of the bearing, on this hub the rear hub mounting plate is what secures the drum with the 2 1/2" nut over the bearing locking it to the outer axle tube. 1/2 of bearing fits in the plate and 1/2 fitting freely in the outer hub.

Yes John, Kevin speaks the truth! I have done one 2 sets for my 1925 Standard and the rear wheels on my 1925 Master. I used a stripper on the one set and that was not worth the mess since much scraping still needed to be done. I made a variety of scrapers including pieces of plate glass. The 21" incorrect set I had on the car loosened up and I had to make shims and soaked with boiled linseed oil before refinishing. The wheels currently on my Standard. My Master wheels were easier since they had been stripped and varnished back in the 1970s. I still had to scrape the steel feloes, prime and paint them. So I need to get around to do the fronts now.

Hugh: From our phone conversation yesterday. This is what the Wood Wheel arangement looks like on my 1925 master. Photo of when I had to use a puller to remove the right rear wheel. As I said this was the only wheel doing any braking. The drum was 3/16" out of round and the internal surface was well worn as I believe the parking brake had to be used to stop the car. That made the drum hang up on the internal band. That is why the puller was needed. The bearing retaining nut that holds the wheel/hub to the axle tube is 2 1/2" hex. I do not recall if it was 16 thread or 20 thread. The left side is LH thread. The hub cap wrench tool I had has the 2 1/2" hex onthe opposite end. Also some other info for period Master rear axle. I had taken photos when I had the wheel off of the internal and when I redid the bushings on the brake shafts. I believe I deleted them.

Standard or Master?

EmTee: Checking in the 1929 Buick Master Parts Book. The Alligator leather was indeed available. We just have not found any period sales literature stating this option. Just like the ever elusive 1925 Sport touring, Sport Roadster and Sport Coupe on the Standard chassis sales literature. They were sold and had to have some type of advertising.

Great work Hugh on the "FrankenBuick". I would love to be able to take a nap on that rear seat it looks so comfortable! I did not realize the body may have been an earlier Standard style. Or at least the doors with this type of internal latch handles. This verticle handle was found on all 1924 4 and 6 cylinder cars. Only on our 1925 Standards had the verticles as the Master had this style of horizontal inside pull/lever. Below shows a 1926-45A with the same levers as my 1925-45 Master. This car has an interesting front seat curtain arrangement. I have never seen this on any other car. That is Dwight Romberger in the window. Photo taken when we went to check out the car that Joan and I agreed to purchase at the time. I did call off the deal because of other issues. The 1927 open cars had this style pull toward the front of the front door on both the Master and Standard. My friend Peter's 1927-54 Levers are missing from the Standard. Photo taken when it was at auction from the Owls Head Museum back in 2011. Now Suzy Manhertz's 1927-24 "Homer". How would you like to do an Alligator leather interior?

Thank you. I thouught it may have been a Buick.

The original lines are brass, not copper. The other fuel lines from the vacuum tank to the carb were/are compression fittings. Previously what I thought as the leaking from the hose fittings from the stone element, glass and metal filter did a good job of washing grease and crud from the frame and dripping on the muffler.

I sent you more photos on the Me and my Buick thread. These are very sharp cars in the correct factory colors. 2018 BCA National Denver.

Spring 2012 Nov 2023. Still mostly red... Nov, 2023