dibarlaw

Walt: That is the shade of Cobalt Blue that is to be on my 1925-45 Touring car. Someday maybe......I had asked Jessy for the formula for years but not yet. Out in the sun it appears much lighter. The restoration plan on this Model 40 was to do the stripped and varnished spokes. All these cars came with painted spokes done in body color. This is all I have done so far. Also the factory catalog images show all the cars with the double whitewalls. Pushing the new Balloon tires in their sales imaging. Basicly all the images below are the same as 1924 catalog illustrations with a bit of touch up on the wheels/tires. Cars that were originally black in 1924 stayed black in the 1925 catalog. Early 1925 production cars stayed black and then when production switched to DUCO the Master Touring went to cobalt blue and the standard touring to brewster Green. The model 49 was to be a darker Limosine Blue.

Comparisons at the time for my 1937 Buick special as an example. There was also similar comparisons to Studebaker, Dodge, Nash and the Lincoln Zepher.

Thanks all: I will forward to Rob.

Hey.... That is my unit in the 1925 Master. Except it now shows 21066 miles and appears to be spot on as far as calibration! Hugh is the AC Guru!

Wilson: Great that you have the holders! The 2 #170548s are both right side mount. The only diffrernce is that the access to the binding screw head is going to be awkward since it will be facing front when mounted on the left side. Notice the bolt head is to the rear on my car. Get us a photo of what your gypsy side mounting area looks like. On the 1925-55 period photo below there apears to be another strap in adittion to the holders.

My friend who is in the midst of rebuilding his 1927 engine has been studying his timing diagram he has concerns about errors on the duration of valve opening and closing. Or was that just how they designed it. He was the person who bought the 1925-49 cobbleation with a variety of changes including a 1927 engine, radiator, headlights, a 1930s style top and bad body wood. But it did have wire wheels. He is turning it into some sort of Speedster. He is rebuilding the 1927 Engine and is stumped by the cam timing. He has had it reground and new aluminum pistons. He has been studying the timing diagram for the 1927 and is concerned things are not correct. I do not have reference to the 1927 diagrams. I only have the 1925 Standard and Master diagrams. New computer here so my scanner has not made friends with it yet so I do not have a scan of my diagrams for comparisons. I thought I would post the question on the forum for him.

Neat photo showing this Buick hard at work towing a trailer. 1925 Buick Model 40 2 door sedan. Below: John Scheib and Jessy Morton at the 2011 BCA meet. Dispay of cars restored at Jessy's shop.

I will be trying to get some more miles on the car before making a final decision. As to how things evolved. I think the previous owner did an overhaul when resurected back in the 1960s -1970s. Very sporatic use over the next 30 years. Probably not accumulating more that several hundred miles in that time, then left to sit for nearly 10 years. We got the car running for the family in 2013 after the owner passed in 2012. They ran the car a bit with probably not an hour on the engine untill they sold it to me in September 2016. Since my last post I have put on another 6 miles since I pulled the extra pint of oil out. At the same time I had changed out the Oil/Amp gage since the gage was leaking. On this gage the pointer was at 5lbs. so now the pressure is showing 28lbs. The old leaking gage that would zero at rest was showing 22lbs. I had the oil pump rebuilt and installed a new screen as well as resoldering the joints of the oil delivery manifold. Now very little noticeable blow by smoke coming out of the road draft (there had been a lot before) and no excesive drips of oil. But I have kept it down to no faster than 35 mph. Stay Tuned.....

EmTee: No, our local friend Peter Rambis who lives in central PA. along the Susquehana river. He has some late 1920s chassis laying around and has his last... 1927-54.(over the years he has had 3). This is the car I did an article on that appeared in the Buick Bugle.

This shows up after we did a trip to see my daughter who lives near Indiana, PA. That was last Tuesday-Wednesday. We passed within 5 miles of Loretto.

PK: I am dealing with the restoration of one of the mid to late 1920s YANKEE units specified as an accessory for Buicks. I had friend do a plastic BUICK lens for the top. His wife does craft stuff on her "CRICKET". BOB'S Automobila Buick parts used to stock these but a friend bought all he had. He also says he has the correct lens' for the left and right. It may be years before he finds them for me. As it has been years since he said he woud get me one of the BUICK lens. What an original looks like.

Nick: I would try our friend Peter. See if he has a better pan.

My 1925 Standard with the rests. I had the boot made for this car but it fits the Master much better

Wilson: Until a set of the top holders are found one can also use a saddle arangement. As leif has on his 1925-25. For what ever reason the rests were specified for cars with Burbank cloth tops. I fabrricated several makeshifts untill I found something. I have a set of holders for my Master and they can also be used on my 1925 Standard. They do have to be left and right hand to access the clamp nut toward the rear. Because of how the cobbled up/cut down top is on the Standard the holders do not fit well so I use a set of saddles I got on Ebay. Unfortunately they do not match as one is 1" longer than the other. But with the top down it is not noticable. The holder or rest need a "Rear seat iron stud, 35" # 170853 Leif shows is the same for my 1925 Model 45 Master. Before I got my holders and rests I made 2 up from heavy duty 3" diameter electrical conduit clamps and ROMEX box clamps. I used this set up for a while utill I found the rests. I made up a heavier set for the Master but never finished them because I found a set of holders. From what I have seen on many cars is that some of the trimmers who do the retopping of this era touring cars are not very sensitive to how this is to be done. TRIMCAR excepted! I had to trim back the hidem and end cap on my Standard top since they covered over the space where the stud threads into. On a tribute 1925-25S sport touring they tacked the gypsy sides to the side of the rear tub which means there was no way to secure the folded top. On my Master they got realy close and it is a tight fit. When I got the car all they had for a top rest was a 7/16" all thread rod and a piece of rubber hose. I tried to install the studs and put a holder on this side for a photo and they would not start because binding on the body wood. I have not had them on or the top down in 6 years so things shift. I was able to install the right side. My friend Dave Blaufarb when he had his 1928-25 re-toped they did a simple loop binding around where the stud was to go. I have seen this done on many show cars. On Buicks at least they never did this as the only time the stud was to be installed was when the top was down and the gypsy sides were unsnapped. If a holder set is found the rubber inserts are hard as rock. On this set I carved out the hard rubber surface and glued softer rubber to the surface.

One of the points on removing the sleeve liner tube. It should be pressed out from the bottom if possible. On both my Master and Standard risers the bores were about .020 smaller at bottom. I may have been more successful by pressing out that way but it already had rusted out around the bottom. Presently I am trying to remove a liner from a 1924 big 6 riser. It was very rusted with a solid block of carbon /rust in the surrounding chamber. Access is a problem as the manifolds are still connected by thoroughly rusted bolts. Soaking and waiting.

Thanks to all... Old tech...I have checked and rechecked valve clearance. .009 on #6. Dave.... Hugh has sugested a leak down test also. I would simply disconnect the vacuum tank from the manifold and plug the line using the fuel in the canister to check idling. Mark.... The burnt valve was on top of my list as there was a sporatic variation of my vacuum readings. Not more than 1/2 inch point drop. EmTee...I am trying to get some more miles on the engine before I commit to drastic measures.

Only did about 15 miles today as I am still sorting out some issues. But it was a sunny day so Remley the 1925 Master and Chickie our 2020 Envision were in a good spot.

I am still trying to come to grips as to what would need to be done with the engine on my 1925 Master Touring. The previous owner had replaced the riser sleeve. I had gone thru the carb, including a new nitrofil float. After replacing plugs, new wires, points and cond. Timing and re-timing it was still not running any better. I recently did a compression check. Cylinders 1-5 were 50-55lbs. #6 was 10lbs. on a cold engine. With a bit of added oil in #6 up to 20lbs. After a good 15 mile drive it was 35lbs. hot. That is what I remember it being when I ran a compression check on it back in 2017. Working through the rebuild of my 1925 Standard engine in 2018-2019 the Master sat mostly idle for 2 years until I found out why that engine quit on me. (Stripped timing gear.) It was a while before I replaced the timing gear. Then started and ran he engine only sporadically while I did a radiator re-core, water pump, brakes and all until I got him back on the road in January. Previously the vacuum was barely at 17 in vu. After the last 15 mile run the vacuum was at a better 18-19 in. Very slight fluctuation at that reading. But that was to me at a too high an idle speed. The only way to get it down to a reasonable idle speed is to drop down to full retard. No adjustment left on the butterfly stop. On another issue that cropped up after the good run was that it was blowing oil out of the road draft tube. (The previous owner installed a later oil filler with the conduit style road draft down tube.) Oil all over the steering box side of engine and coming out the hood louvers. A Also oil from the bottom of the trunnion case indicating rear seal issue. All this indicating an overfill condition. Oil pressure at the gage is 22 lbs. When I changed the oil after the timing gear replacement the level on the stick was at the full line. It was now showing a bit higher. Using my suction gun, I pulled a pint of oil to get it back to the full mark. No indication of coolant in oil. But after several runs of over 10 miles of up to 50 MPH, there would be a several cup full puddle on the driveway or on the drip pan plus whatever was blown out along the way. I consider a possible over rich condition adding fuel to the oil. Could the low #6 cylinder and blowby add that much fuel to the oil over the 59 miles and several hours of static running time over the last 4 months trying to sort things out? Could the vacuum tank vacuum line be also sending extra fuel to the manifold? The uncontrollable too high idle speed as a symptom. Thoughts???

Robin: Here is the photo I posted on the forum on April 16, 2018. re-reading some of my comments I must correct myself in that we offered $18,000 at the time. As I had mentioned that this had been on Glidden tours so there should be a roster to identify. Look at all your dash plaques for clues to who registered the car in what event. It looks to have been active 1955-1958. More of my inspection photos below. In the center of the windshield wood filler there is an AACA First award badge. Also check with the Horsless Carraige Club as there is an award badge on the right side of the cowl to hood wood filler.

Robin: Here are some more of the photos from the ad. (reduced in size)

Glad to do it Robin: If I have not been able to aquire one of these Buicks I do like to see the next owner have a successful experience with them. A few more photos I took at the time we inspected it.

Hey Ed..... that sounds like places I worked in. Working on the clutch replacement for the 1925 Buick in my "IMPROVED" side of the garage with broom finished concrete. Reinstalling the rear axle on my 1937 Buick after a 25-year-long clutch replacement. Gravel floor with boards and plywood. "UNIMPROVED" side of the garage. So much fun. And some time the bushes alongside of the garage come into play....

Robin: I will go thru my notes on this car. I had contacted the childeren of the original restorer who owned the car from the 1950s when it was restored into the 1990s. The gentelman who was selling the car said it was his step-father's. As you can see at the time it still had a Michigan historical plate attached. The car was located on their farm at Belle Vernon, PA. Photos from the original sale ad below. When we were to come for a test drive they said it was running and driveable. The original asking price was $32,000. Which they indicated was recomended by a broker. When we arrived things were partially dissasembled (hoses off of the water pump) and one could tell it had not run for many years. So apparently they towed the car out for the photos. They also indicated that 2nd gear was problematic. We offered $16,000 as it sat. I kept in touch for several months. After about a mounth he sent me a horribly distorted video to prove that they got it running. Then it was sold to a local owner in the South western PA. area. It went to a shop out side of Uniontown PA. (Skip Seaton's) to be sorted out to participate in a local tour. On tour 2nd gear failed and that is all I heard of the car until it showed up at the Hershey flea market. I have seen some images of the car in some 1950s issues of the AACA Antique Automobile Magazine. It should also be on Glidden Tour Roles. I would have to check some of my old posts to find the nice color photo taken of this car at a car show back in the late 1950s.

Currently for sale in this month's Buick Bugle I believe for $59,900.

EmTee Still twitch about many cars but reality always stops the twitching. I only have a 2 car garage housing 2 cars and I am still renting a space several blocks away for the other 1925 Buick. Also the 1925 Master seems to have potentially a very expensive belly ache, which to cure would be the newly listed price of the 1948 Oldsmobile.