dibarlaw

If the windhield wiper is missing I would just cap it.

After nearly 5 years on jack stands waiting for a service to get done (Recore radiator, replacing timing gear, waiting to source a part, Reproduced water tube, Rear brake drum or for me to machine an assembly, Water Pump), My 1925 Master "Remley" was back on the road. Just befor 6" of snow this weekend. All 4 tires on the floor.Timidly exploring the outside world. Now he was ready to come out. Neighbor Monty and I took him for several miles to limber him up a bit. Amazing on how well the car stops now that all 4 wheel brakes are functioning. When we first got the car only the right rear had been doing any braking. That was with the assist of the emergency brake. That rear drum was very worn on the inside surface and 3/16" out of round. We did another several miles on Friday before the snow fell. Now for some tweaking.

On my 1925 Master it was a case that the shut off valve was not sealing well. I got it to seal then the male compression fitting at the valve was causing the next leak. I had to adapt another fitting to match the (Dole fitting/Tube nut). It has a 1/2"X 20 thread. I made an internal and external 60 degree lap. Used with with some heavy rubbing compound the valve is now sealing. When I got the car the brass line from the main tank was already cut and it had one of the large plastic filters there. Also an outboard motor primer bulb that was hard as rock. On my 1925 Standard I installed an in line 1/4 turn ball valve just behind the carb. I just could not keep it from overwhelming the needle valve. I would also like to work up an easier way of accessing it without having to raise the hood every time.

Wilson: It may also be an issue with poor contacts within the combination switch. I spent some time sorting out the gremlins in this system. The photo below shows the stage I mounted my combination switch on so I could monitor voltages during actual operation. I have had similar coil heating issues with my 1925 Standard. I had a modern 6 volt coil mounted up inside the cowl as the original DELCO was. Photo with the original coil below. This shows a modern coil mounted on the exterior of the firewall. The modern coil would get just about hot enough to burn your hand. The new coil was noted as being internal resistance included. The original Delco Coil had an external wire wound balast resistance. This one has a curved base that was used on the 1926-28 Buicks and was mounted on eth generator. They would also get very hot. Rewiring with a bit heavier gare wire helped a bit. An original NOS coil may exist but we have not seen any available for years. I also had issues with NEW condensors and have swapped out between new and some nearly 100 year old originals. And the points still keep burning.

Unfortunately it is not a "Big Buick". It is a 109" WB car and is a bit LESS cramped than a compairable Chevrolet. It appears to have been restored/fixed up during the same period as my 1925 Master Touring. When Baby Blue, Yellow and Brown combos were popular. Along with stripped and varnished wood spoked wheels. These 1923 model 35 cars as well as the model 45 big 6 were available only in BLACK. My 1925 model 45 was an early version with a late 1924 build. It was originaly a black car. Later production, when DUCO came to be used, the color was Cobalt Blue. The former owner did try a darker Cobalt Blue first but later decided to repaint it in the Baby/ Robins Egg Blue. I hope to someday get it back to a Cobalt blue so I have started by doing the wheels.

Master or Standard? Where are you located?

I can scan some of the detailed photos of the 1931 Fisher Body Manual showing the coupe wood construction. Pretty much the same designs from 1924-1931.

nat: No. Every bit of it was clutch facing. This shows the rest of what I found in the bottom cover.

When I first bought 1925 Buick in 2011. (We had previously started a thread "Looking for a Driver Buick".) How the Buick first came to us. Current appearance. Still a work in progress. I asked the owner what history he had on the vehicle. He said he bought it several years earlier from Minn. or Wisconsin. He did not remember and could not find any other paperwork. There was supposed to be a spare engine included in his purchase but the seller to him supposidly passed before the engine was shipped. I have information on who was the last previous owner of my other cars. I was suprised he could not tell me at least who he bought the car from. When I first got the car I sent out letters in the BCA to all 1925 Buick Standard owners listed in the directory if there could be a lead. Still hopeful on finding who fixed up the car in the late 1960s or early 70s. On my 1925 Master I purchased in 2016 I had traced back to an owner from the 1950s. The previous owner to me purchased it from him in 1964. That 1964 onward owner was the one who fixed up the car in the 1960s-1980. The family had no restoraton photos or photos from local shows in that time period of ownership. This is one of the great features of the Forum. There will be documentation to others from our many threads and posts.

Let us know where you are located. It would be good if there are any members local to you for help.

Ben. Wishing you a happy Christmas season and a great New Year. We have not connected for a while. Hugh will be the one to give a better response. As you recall I had my engine rebuilt and it seems to perform as intended. We did 860 miles this past summer. I had redone my clutch prior to the rebuild. I had lost one of the facings and it would stick in gear prior to that. The one facing was disintigrating with most of it ending up in the starter gear galley. I am still getting oil on the outter most facing (transmission side). I did not adress a better way of providing a seal on the transmission input shaft. I believe Hugh did on his restoration. Also I probably should have done new bearings and such in the transmission. There is much clutch chatter particuarly in trying to do a rolling start in 2nd gear. If the clutch is relined properly it should last for another 98 years!

With all the work to get this one wheel done with the bad drum. I left the other wheel together when I stripped it. The spokes had been stripped once before when the previous owner did them in the 1960s and varnished them. All spokes appear to be in excelent condition.On the left is the original 3/16" out of round RR drum from my 1925-45. On the right is the much rounder 1926 drum I got from Fred Rawling. The hub was a very good tight fit to this drum and now installed it runs pretty true. A comment on truing/turning brake drums in this time period. The operation was done as an assembly on a lathe with appropriate clearance for the entire wheel, rim and tire. I have a 1927 South Bend Lathe Catalog showing their line of Brake Lathes. Accessories included all the appropriate arbors to fit the hubs. Also the hub /spoke bolts on the 1924-1925 Master and Standard series were peined or center punched after tightening. On one wheel from a 1924 that I was able to get a drum from they center punched the nuts. On my 1925-45 they peined the nut and bolt. I was able to make up new nuts and save the threads on the bolts. On my Standard I also had to make up bolts.

Hugh: To add to what we have shown in my 1925 Master gage photo. This time after having the tank cleaned and resealed I made sure there was NO gasket between the underside of the gage and the gage tower.(far left) It is meant to be located by the notches, seating in the slight recess. The original thick (probably leather) gaskets spaced the gage indicator from interfearing with the glass. I had to pull my gage out twice to size the plastic spacer. Made from plastic plumbing drain pipe. I was able to eliminate several of the gaskets and replace with a bit thicker cork/rubber examples. I probably got an extra 4 threads on the bezel for better sealing .

I was hoping to get the 1925 Master(Remley)on the road before snowfall here in South PA. We had a dusting overnight. Wow! He has been sitting nearly 5 years on the jack stands. But, yesterday I was able to get 3, 15 minute engine runs while dialing things in. Hopefully off the jack stands soon.

Joe: Was you home ever included in "The White Pine Monographs". A series of publications documenting existing 17th and early 18th century homes published around 1900-1910.

I thought so too Brian but it shows a regular steering wheel with an aluminum spider instead of the wooden spider version on the model 54 and 55.

Wilson: I will have to unearth the hood which I have stored and burried under other things. I am sending information incase someone else has a rough hood to be able to donate the 2. On my 1925 Standard the brackets were painted and riveted on. I had mine powdercoated black and I filed a square into the holes so I could use 1/4X20 SS carraige bolts. I turned the appropriate profile on the heads to mimic the original. On the 1924 6 and 1925 Master these were fastened on with #12X24 screws and nuts. My brackets were nickel plated on my car when I got it. Interesting that the 1930 Master Parts Book lists these as Part #33997 which is what my 1925 MASTER BOOK OF PARTS calls out. The applications are for 1916-D series thru 1927, all models. Skipping 1928 which had a different design. Picking up again for some 1929 models and 1930 export 60 series. My 1925-25 6 cyl. is the next year replacement for your 1924-35 4 cyl. In my 1925 STANDARD BOOK OF PARTS the Hood fastener bracket is # 22386 which the 1930 reference indicates to be for 1929 Ser. 116 1929-41-46-47-X41-46-47 1930 Ser. 40-50. The black enamel body hood fastener is part #158728. For 1923-1924 4 and 6 cyl. 1925-1926-1927 6 cyl. 1928 pretty much all except sport models which were all nickel plated. The hood fasteners are tougher to come by since they were also riveted to the hood sill.

Wilson: Several have shown up on Ebay this week one partial and one complete. My search is usually for 1925 Buick or 1920s Buick.

Wilson: Now we can keep in contact! A period ad for your car.

Don: On my 1925-45 I did my wedges, bolts and nuts in black and had the rims powder coated silver. When I had all the other hardware powder coated I had the hub nuts done also. Even being carefull when tightening the hub nuts with their thin lock washers I still tore up the paint on the hubs in many places. So a lot of touch up was in order. It is much better than the white house paint the former owner used on the rims. When I removed the tires the paint fell off in potato chip size pieces. A 1924-45 black wedges/nuts with the hub nuts Nickle plated as I believe they were originally. The 1925-55 photo you post shows this. Below a 1925-45A? (enclosed touring) but is shown with the 1924 style top. Wheel wedges look to be dark.

Picture I took of the car at Hershey Car Corral. I spoke with Wilson the day he bought the car. I swaped some parts for him that were incorrect for his cowl lights. This car had been discussed several years ago on the forum when it was for sale on a "Not Mine" post

I am glad I took the last 2 photos. The first one was taken at our Hershey spot. My 87 Chevy S-10 wheel is shown. The one of Dave's car was during the 2016 BCA 50th anniversary. Dave realy needed them as we had hard rain Saturday afternoon to Sunday morning.

Sure looks like a 1911 Buick Model 41 Limousine body. Only 27 produced. The front has more of a 1910 Buick look with a Brass radiator. With the straight flat rear fenders it may have had the body put on a 1910 model 17 chassis.

To me it appears to be a 1911 Model 32. Some items are older such as the bail side lamps. The oval tank is unusual but does show up in factory photos. From what you show it looks to be a nice complete period car.

Hugh Leidlein and I had 2 sets cast up for our 1925-25 cars. We used a brass original from a 1923 or earlier car. The 1924s and up are die cast and after nearly 50 years they fell apart. I know it is closer to 100 years old but most of these die cast parts gave up even before they reached 50 years old. The set we had done was pretty rough. It took a lot of work to get the bronze castings good enough to plate. Below is the sketch I had made at the time.