JV Puleo

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JV Puleo last won the day on December 18 2019

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About JV Puleo

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Smithfield, Rhode Island
  • Interests:
    Brass era... teens & 20s


  • Biography
    A lifelong Brass Car enthusiast

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  1. I spent a good part of my life working on RRs, albeit most older than the mid-30s so I've no knowledge of these later cars. Nevertheless, I find your brake job fascinating. I have observed that virtually all modern car suppliers are helpless when it comes to using their imagination. If it isn't in the catalog it doesn't exist...or, perhaps more honestly they should say that liability concerns prohibit them from expressing an opinion. But, the Rolls is still just a car. It isn't spectacularly heavier than other big cars that have braking systems. Something should work and be much simpler than the original system. I think you are on on to something and if you persevere you'll eventually arrive at a workable solution.
  2. Today I made nuts to hold the pump together. Why, you may rightly ask would I bother to make nuts? Because I want them to look appropriate for the period. It isn't that they look like originals, it is that they don't look as if they came from the hardware store. The first step was to cut some pieces of 7/16 brass hex stock. It was faced off and drilled with a #25 drill. Then I set up the radius turning tool and put a slight crown on one end. This was done with a collet stop in place so all the pieces would come out exactly the same length. Then the other end was turned down to 3/8" And went back in the lathe to be trimmed to length. I then threaded them (although I forgot to take a picture of that). I only need 5. The 6th was my insurance in case I ruined one. I have to admit it doesn't look like much for most of a day's work but my feeling is that it is small details like this that disguise the fact that the entire unit is new.
  3. Wow...I haven't seen that in years. Stanley Benoit lived in southern RI - around Exeter or West Greenwich – in a trailer next to his garage. He built miniature steam locomotives in the garage - one per year - which he sold for $30,000 each. That was a lot of money in the early 70s (It's still a lot of money to me). I visited him there. The Stan-Ben steamer was all apart having been rear ended on Main Street in East Greenwich, RI. I seem to remember he told me it was a 1928 Pontiac chassis. The engine was one of the larger Stanley's (20 HP?). Since I was in my 20s at the time and he must have been in his late 60s or 70s he must be long gone now and I too have wondered what became of the car.
  4. I had several distractions today but still managed to make two threaded sleeves. I have to make 30 of these so it is important I make sure they will work. 12 are for the main bearing studs. Those will be 9/16-18 on the OD and 7/16-20 on the ID. 18 are for the sump. They will be 9/16-18 OD and 3/8-16 ID. Cutting a 9/16 thread with this tool is pushing the envelope but it seems to work, probably because this is free-machining brass. The long one is for the main bearings and the short one for the sump. I also got 4 packages in the mail at the end of the day, including these nice Franklin brake-line fittings from my friend Mike West that I'll use to conduct oil to the center main and the center camshaft bearing. The hex stock and the collet I need to make the final parts for the water pump also came in so I've gone from having to think of something to make to having plenty to do.
  5. There is an AACA chapter in Westerly which is very close to Exeter. Its likely members live there so you may be able to find a one who would store the engine until it can be picked up if that is a problem. I'd offer to do it myself but I'm at the other end of the state (which still isn't far), have no good way to bring it back to my shop, and I'm leaving on an extended trip in two weeks and have a great deal to do beforehand. But, if it is an emergency, I'd try to help. jp
  6. Cut it out guys... this will go to my head...I'm just a Yankee mechanic. To answer Mike's question, this is the collet stop. It is just a plug that screws into the end of the collet with another threaded piece inside that can be adjusted to the desired depth. This one has been modified by adding the 1/4" dowel pin for a job that needed a smaller diameter pin. The thread is 7/16-20 so I have a few extra bolts and nuts to use for different setups. It wouldn't be too difficult to make but, if I remember correctly, it was inexpensive. To cut small pieces to a uniform length, I set the stop and also set a stop on the lathe bed for either a turning tool or a cut off tool. I usually face one end of a short piece square then use the collet stop to match the exact length of the piece multiple times. I'll use this to make the studs that hold the jugs down and the studs for the main bearing caps. If you needed more travel, I don't see why you couldn't make an extended version. Edit: The pin is actually screwed in backwards in this picture because I needed extra depth.
  7. What is clear is that it was some sort of roadster/speedster. The fact that the chassis doesn't even reach the rear end tells us that the body must have been very short. There isn't room there for any more than a couple of seats and a gas tank.
  8. It doesn't make any difference to me at all although I'm perfectly happy taking advantage of other people's aversion to RHD. Except for later American RRs, most of the old cars I've worked on were RHD.
  9. Thanks guys. The pump has been a bit of a struggle but I'm happy with the way it is coming out. There are still a few tweaks to do but overall it would work just as it is. This project has made it clear why people build prototypes. When the job is done you ask yourself "why didn't I think of that the first time" but it seldom works that way.
  10. I made some little brass studs to replace socket head cap screws...the first step was to cut them to length. The trick is to make them identical so I did it in the lathe with a cut off tool and the piece of rod in a collet with a stop set. Then both ends were threaded. This threading device was critical. I'd never have been able to thread them straight by hand and they are too small to single point. This is what they are supposed to do. I'll make special nuts for the end but I'm waiting on the hex stock. I then drilled and tapped the holes for the cover plate on the small end. And pressed in the bushings. With the plates screwed together, the fit is just about perfect. However, when I put the middle section in the pump it tightenes up just a little so when everything is done and bolted together I'll hone the bushings a little.
  11. I intend to but haven't gotten to it. Its one of those jobs I'm leaving for a day when I'm waiting for materials to arrive.
  12. I took yesterday off to do the laundry and work on my book and because I wanted to give the slip fit Locktite time to completely set. This morning I put the inlet end of the pump in the lathe to turn off the extra material. It seemed to work perfectly. Then I put the pump back in the engine to mark the length of the brass inlet tube. I cut it off... And threaded the end. I then assembled it and tried it in the engine. The angle iron sides of the engine stand are the same material I intend to use for the sub-frame so if it fits here it will fit when the engine is in the chassis. I don't think there is any question that this looks a lot better than the welded pieces. Its stronger too. Next I'm going to replace the socket head cap screws with brass rods and special nuts I've dreamed up. It certainly doesn't look like the original pump but I think it does look like "1910" – or at least a lot more so than my previous efforts.
  13. I suspect it's the dry air – something I doubt you get much of in Norfolk.
  14. This will be the flange on the inlet side of the pump that the lower water fitting butts up against. It was aluminum on the previous pump but this time I'm using a brass tube . I will eventually solder this to the tube. The piece of metal is marine bronze, a piece of a drive shaft from a fishing boat. It is actually a mistake I made when I was rebuilding the milling machine but it looks as if there is just enough metal to make something of it...its been on the shelf for a good 3 or 4 years. It was threaded and I had just enough material to bore the threads out. Then tapped 1-1/4-20. I then put it on one of the fixtures I made earlier and turned the OD and knurled the larger portion. Then back in the mill to put in slots for a hook spanner. The finished piece. This took most of the day because there are so many different steps. But I wasn't done yet. I put a piece of 1-1/4 brass tube in the lathe to thread it. This is the end that will screw into the pump. I used the flange as a threading gauge... Obviously I have to shorten this but I want to set it up on the engine to get the exact measurement. This tubing was not particularly easy to thread...it isn't made from the "free machining" 360 brass that threads easily. Still, it will work just fine.
  15. I'll take a look when I get to the shop but it is "press fit." I'm not sure it is appropriate for the pistons though. I expect they will get too hot. Locktite is a great product but it can't withstand high temperatures. Edit: Loctite 635