JV Puleo

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JV Puleo last won the day on November 25 2018

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About JV Puleo

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 11/01/1951

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Smithfield, Rhode Island
  • Interests:
    Brass era... teens & 20s


  • Biography
    A lifelong Brass Car enthusiast

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  1. Whenever I think it's cold here I remind myself of northern Maine. It doesn't make me any warmer but I don't' feel so bad about it!
  2. So far, very little snow. It is cold, but probably not as bad as the midwest or Maine. My English friends are always aghast that I visit in February which, to them is the depth of winter. It is something of a running joke now because a British February, at least in the Midlands, is more like Spring here. That said, they did have some serious snow last year. Yes, I have a new cam, made for me by a friend who is also assembling a 1910Mitchell. We've been trading bits. I send him the stuff I'm not going to use (he's a lot more interested in keeping his car exactly as made) and he's made several things for me. As an aside (this pertains to the thread on the 1908 REO and the price of unrestored early cars) you have to be in the loop to take advantage of the sort of open exchange of parts and knowledge that characterizes many early car enthusiasts. Buying an unrestored wreck is the ticket of admission. Quite a few things that people here moan about the cost of are nowhere near as expensive as may generally be bel9ieved when like-minded enthusiasts are helping each other.
  3. I think solid shot was usually kept in racks along the gunwales. It might have been stacked on deck for inspections and the like but that seems a poor idea if the ship was rolling - as they all were much of the time.
  4. The next step was milling the flats... So, now I have 4 "lollipops" Now I have to drill and ream the holes. I used the surface plate to get the piece parallel. I wasn't too thrilled with this but the only alternative was to make them one at the time without ever taking them out of the collet block. None of this part of the job worked as I'd planned. I had intended to drill and ream in the drill press but as things developed that wouldn't work. In the end I did it in the mill albeit having to change tool holders 3 times. In the end, I used a counterbore to face off both sides. I hadn't planned to do that but it turns out to have been a very good idea because now the hole in the center and the faces are absolutely perpendicular. Here's the first one. You can see the hole for the copper tubing. When all four are done I'll have to figure out how to mill the groove that runs around the inside.
  5. JV Puleo

    My "new" lathe - Input?

    The best trick for cleaning the ways is to use a dull carbide scraper... it just pushes the rust off.
  6. JV Puleo

    My "new" lathe - Input?

    Those loose gears in the photo of the drawer are VERY important. Your lathe doesn't have a quick-change gearbox. The gears are needed to cut threads. The chart you posted a photo of will tell you what combinations of gears are used for each thread.
  7. JV Puleo

    My "new" lathe - Input?

    Join the Practical Machinist web site... they have both an "antiques" sub-forum and a South Bend sub-forum. There are plenty of folks there who will be able to guide you. Also, get a copy of "How to Run a Lathe" - it was published by South Bend and is still the best basic work on the subject regardless of what machine you have. I know it is on the internet but it will be far more useful to get a real copy - it's cheap and readily available. By the way - that doesn't look to be in bad condition at all. The lathe I run every day was far rougher when I started. But, there are things to avoid and proper ways of going about recommissioning it so it would be best to get some knowledgable advice before you start pulling things apart.
  8. JV Puleo

    What does original mean?

    Another word in the automobile lexicon, like "classic" that has absolutely no meaning at all.
  9. Here are the 4 "blanks" for the banjo fittings. Not surprisingly, the last one came out best but all of them are acceptable. I made the high head bolts that hold down the valve cages. They are OK but I was frustrated by the fact that original period bolts usually have a slight crown to the head. At the time I made the bolts, I couldn't do that so I put a slight chamfer on the edges. They obviously work but they didn't look right. So, I set the radius tool to as large a radius as I thought it could turn without chattering and put one of the bolts in the lathe. This job is much easier to do because the radius is fixed. All you are doing is moving it in and that can be done by moving the saddle of the lathe. I took very small cuts and left the machining marks - which are very light. Now, rather than looking like I made them they just look like old bolts.
  10. Terry, how are the two halves held together? I'm thinking I should make one that will replace what is there... but to do it first. Then, if it comes out right, I can cut the one that is on the cam off with a Dremel tool. It'll be a PIA on the ends where it is large but not really difficult. I could even mill it through about 90% of the way and then cut the remainder. If I get some scratched in the shaft they'll only serve as oil grooves.
  11. Having the ball turning device more-or-less working (I still need to practice with it) I started on three more of the blanks for the banjo fittings. I don't know if I've shown this before, but this is my setup for drilling a hole to a prescribed depth. There is no scale on the quill so when you want a hole to stop is can be a little difficult to calculate where. The three new pieces ... And set up in the lathe. There is a technique to doing this that I'm learning as I go. Of course, I'll probably master it just as I finish the last one and never need that skill again. And this is my other job... one I undertook for a friend because no one would touch it. I agreed to give it a try with no guarantees. It's a 1909 Jackson that threw a rod. The camshaft side of the crankcase was smashed and welded back together. It's a brilliant welding job but the front and middle holes for the cam unavoidably had weld on the inside. I line bored the crankcase in my lathe, one of the most heart-stopping jobs I've ever done but it actually came out right. The front bearing is no problem, I'll just make a new one but I have a major headache in that the owner of the car had a new camshaft made. The nitwits that assembled put the original bearing back on. The cam lobes are attached with tapered pins and they also peened over the ends so I can't tell which side is the small one. I should take the bearing off but drilling out the pins accurately and replacing them is a serious challenge. So... I think I have a solution which I'll share in the next week or so unless someone here knows a trick for taking out tapered pins that I haven't heard of. The center bearing is now about .035 smaller than the hole it fits in. I'm thinking that maybe I can make a two-piece bearing that will clamp in the center (there is room for this) that will have a slightly larger diameter... we'll see.
  12. JV Puleo

    1917 Model T "Sears drivers training car"

    I think the phone number in that configuration is nowhere near old enough. I'm not certain phone numbers even had 7 digits that early and I know that the usual way of writing them was for the first two digits to be letters - usually the initials or a code for the exchange. My phone number is the 60s was written PA5-xxxx for 725-xxxx.
  13. JV Puleo

    1908 REO touring original unrestored.

    I think of the purchase price as the price of admission. If a brass car is what you want - and you don't have 40,000 or 50,000 to spend - or don't particularly care for Model Ts or actually LIKE doing the necessary work and take pride in the accomplishment of having resurrected what most people would consider a pile of junk the cars that Mr. Richelieumotor has been posting are a godsend. If I weren't up to my neck in a project already I'd probably be haunting the man.
  14. That is the basic idea behind the first one I made although mine is much more complicated. I wanted to get away from the business of controlling it by hand...but I've now found that isn't as much of a problem as I'd thought. The major problem I discovered after I'd done all that work is that when the tool rotates horizontally it requires a lot of room between the chuck or collet in order to reach the back. That's not a problem if you are making a threaded ball - you can just attach it to a longer threaded rod but in this case, the part that holds the ball is also part of the finished item and there just isn't much room back there. When the tool moves vertically you can work with much less space because all you have to allow for is the width of the actual cutting tool.
  15. It certainly did. What I especially like is that I found a use for the not-so-good boring head I bought three or four years ago and that's been on the shelf ever since I got a really good one.