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JV Puleo

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JV Puleo last won the day on April 26

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About JV Puleo

  • Birthday 11/01/1951

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    Smithfield, Rhode Island

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  1. I'm not sure I remember it correctly but when the generator came out and was replaced is it possible the cam timing was disturbed?
  2. I've been pondering the rear axle bearings...as you can see, there is a boss in the center of the cap that held a grease cup. I don't need the grease cups now but I would like to use the boss for something that will make it look like it was intended. The aluminum sleeve has to be split and I think that the clamping pressure when its bolted down will be enough but if I add another clamp, using the boss and bearing directly on the bearing races, I can't see how that would do anything but help. After thinking about it quite a bit, I have a plan but I need a milling cutter that is 3-1/4" in diameter to make the necessary part...so until I find that I'm stopped on this. I went on and bored and threaded the gauge I started yesterday... But, half way through I realized I already had a gauge and fixture for 1-3/8 -16 so while I finished the threading, I put the new gauge aside until later... In order not to be left without anything to do, I started on the caps that will go on the ends of the new drag link. I have to make a drag link for several reasons. The original is hammered and the orientation of the connections will not work with the new Pittman arm I made. I started by cutting off 2 pieces of 1-3/4 brass bar. Then drilled, bored and threaded... These big taps are a bear to use in the lathe so after I've started the thread I move it over to a chuck bolted down to the mill where I can use a bit tap wrence. Even this was a trial so I've made a note to bore the next one about .005 larger...
  3. Up through the late 60s or early 70s a lot of cars ad motorcycles were exported. I once had a 1938 R66 BMW that had been sold new in India - completely fitted with British electrical parts. The fellow I got it from, a good friend, bought half a dozen early British bikes that way. But, since then it has been illegal to export any car or bike over a certain age - certainly all the pre-war cars included. There are a lot of RR's there, including some of the earliest Ghosts. As Ed has said, the Indian market probably kept RR going through the depression.
  4. I know...just last week I fired my late uncle's Baker. He bought it 2nd hand when he was 15, around 1930... the price was $5 and my grandfather had to loan him $1.50. It still works exactly as it should...We've even published a book on them - "Niles Guide to Affordable Shotguns"
  5. I didn't get much done today. I don't have many local friends but just about all of them chose today to stop by and visit - which isn't a problem since I'm not doing this for a living...actually, when I had my garage I didn't have a telephone there (this was long before cell phones) - my thinking was that people were always welcome to stop in but they'd have to make the effort. A phone would have been a constant distraction. In any case, I did get to drop the gear into the rear axle housing to see how it fit. It fit just about perfectly - better than it did with before I replaced the bearings - another clue to the possibility that the thrust bearings that were in it were not the correct ones. It spins effortlessly and there is plenty of room for adjustment and for the seals. I will not have to modify the thrust bearing... I didn't slit the aluminum sleeves because some new ideas came to me. One of the advantages to running gear oil in the rear end is that I can eliminate the big grease cups that were mounted on the caps. If the oil level is nearly half way up the gear, it will be above the lower end of the rollers. This also eliminates the need to put a "try cock" in the side to check the level. It's easy enough to take the cover off - although I don't have the correct cover and that is another piece I either have to find or make. The one I have fits properly, but the bolt holes don't come near lining up with the holes in the housing. In the midst of all this I also went on with my "baked enamel" experiment on the motorcycle parts - doing the two lower fork tubes. I'm quite pleased with how they came out. The baking kills the wet look of the new paint but that doesn't bother me at all and, as far as I can see, it is completely dry and hard. I do have a couple of parts that won't fit in the toaster oven...I'll have to think about how to do those.
  6. I suspect most shooting brakes were 2nd bodies. They were intended to be used on large estates. Remember that nearly all English farmers are, or were tenants of a big estate and the shooting rights to the estate belonged to the landowner. In most cases, they were jealously guarded. This is the reason there are no "farmer" grade English shotguns like the cheap fowlers sold in America in the early 19th century right through the inexpensive shotguns offered by Sears & Roebuck at the turn of the century. English farmers usually didn't have the right to shoot on the land they farmed.
  7. Why not make it in bronze and paint it. I've been experimenting with baking enamel paint...and getting a result very much like that. Or, you might want to call this place: http://cumberlandfoundry.com/ I've never used them but I've driven past the place several times - it's quite close to the shop. There is another foundry in my neighborhood as well - again, I've never used them but, if needed, I can check them out.
  8. It's a 20HP...overhead valves, not overhead cam. I don't think RR ever built an overhead cam engine for automobiles (I don't know enough about their aero engines to comment on those).
  9. There's one last piece to this puzzle. The seat in the rear axle housing is 3-1/2" in diameter while the bearing races are 3-1/4. To take up the difference I'm making two "clamping shims" out of aluminum tubing with a 1/8" wall. I needed the big chuck for this because the small one won't grab enough of the tube to hold it steady while I cut it off. The finished size will be 2-7/8" so I cut the pieces off a little over 3" Then cleaned the end up and flipped it around to trim it to length. These still have to be split. The next up is the drag link and for that I have to make several tools - one of which will use the same slitting saw so I'll get that ready then do all three things at the same time.
  10. Probably... if you went out the side door into the yard it was on the right, fairly close to the front gate (which was always locked unless they were taking something out). Over my years of going there I became fairly friendly with Bill and had the run of the place, including the inside storage building. $300 was his standard price for any complete wreck in the yard. I paid the same for a 1919 Buick tourer (really a chassis...we left the sheet metal behind).
  11. I bought a stripped PI chassis - the crankcase, lower end, transmission and running gear were all there but the head, blocks, hubs and wheels were gone - at Bills Auto Parts in Valley Falls, RI. I think the firewall was gone too because I didn't have the chassis number. Price...$300. If I had it today, I'd probably give it to Terry Harper for his big Wisconsin engine but even putting wheels on it would be a challenge. The problem is, as Ed points out, the asking prices are usually at least double - or even four times what they are realistically worth even from my perspective, which is not that of someone that expects to make money on it and doesn't want the attendant headaches of a concours-quality restoration.
  12. It's only the aluminum heads on the later PI's (29-31)* that are a potential problem and it should be said that most of these cars are running with an original head. The aluminum alloy they were cast from has not aged well and does not react well with some anti-freeze solutions. That said, I've only seen one damaged head - mine - and I think that was repairable (It wasn't cracked...it had a hole in the water jacket). It's more a question of "you don't know"... I'd steer clear of an aluminum head PI because the only ones I could afford would be in rough shape and there is no way I could afford to have the work done. The cost of a new head would be a killer...That said, I don't think there are - or ever were - dozens of headless cars around, nor have I ever seen one being offered really cheap. I saw Frank Cook's first prototype head running on his Newmarket. The early ones had overheating problems and, as Ed has said, the castings often had flaws that couldn't be seen until they were machined. The cost had to reflect the fact that a lot of machining time was wasted. I think, at the time, Frank hypothesized that the original head had been centrifugally cast. If I had to guess, I'd estimate that 2/3 or more of the cost today is the machining time. They are too big to be done on a Bridgeport and all short run precision work like this is expensive. I don't remember Franks' price but I think it was around $10,000 in the early 70s which suggests that, in real money terms, they are less expensive today. *I don't know if the problems continue on with the PII - I've only ever worked on 2 of them and never liked them much. To me, they are too late to be very interesting. Neither of the cars I worked on had head problems.
  13. Me too. For exactly the same reasons at least 15 years ago. Now, on the very rare occasions when I'm in the same room as a TV, I marvel at how puerile it is. Right now I'm re-reading a book on the Spanish Armada...last night it was Prince Eugene of Savoy...all of which is 100 times more interesting than anything that has been on TV in the last 20 years.
  14. It reminds me of the Type 48 Locomobile I saw advertised once...painted white with pink fenders. G od only knows what the interior looked like. My late employer, Ted Leonard of Gatsby PI notoriety, had similar taste. I liked Ted and he was a loyal friend but, ultimately, I couldn't work for him. He ruined a PI Avon with white paint, beige fenders, white walls, vacuum plated wheels and gold plush upholstery... another of our friends called it "bordello yellow."
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