JV Puleo

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JV Puleo last won the day on February 4

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About JV Puleo

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 11/01/1951

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    Smithfield, Rhode Island
  • Interests:
    Brass era... teens & 20s


  • Biography
    A lifelong Brass Car enthusiast

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  1. Maybe, but the speed I'm running the tests at is probably close to a comfortable cruising speed. As it is, it wouldn't pump oil at idle or even slow speeds. But, I had springs behind the earlier vanes and that pump worked so I am certain this one will. Tomorrow I'll start on a fixture to drill the holes...I've been giving it some thought and I think I can make one that will do the job.
  2. I think you are right there even if I drive the heck out of it - providing I finish it before I'm too old to drive! I'll get on that tonight. jp
  3. I'm not surprised it didn't work though I didn't anticipate the reason. One of the things I did this morning was polishing the vanes. I did that with a piece of 500 grit wet or dry using the lapping plate as the flat surface. The result was quite satisfactory. The vanes fell into place from gravity alone. I then assembled the pump and ran it - to no avail. It did pull up a little oil but not enough to reach the pump. I then took the end plate off but left it on the stand so I could easily rotate it and see what was happening. It turns out that the surface tension of the oil is enough to keep the vanes from sliding out. Aside from that, I suspect it will work brilliantly. In fact, it was drawing weakly without the vanes doing anything at all which I take to be a very good sign. The pump is also turning very smoothly. So, now I have to design a fixture to hold the vanes while I drill holes in them for little springs. This is actually a real challenge for me because the fixture will have to be extremely precise. There is very little room to work with and since the vanes were made on the rotor, replacing them could be a major undertaking. I'll have to make the fixture and make a few test vanes to set it up so that when I do make the holes I'm confident they will be in the right place and the right depth. I'd also like to find some real vane pump springs 1/8" in diameter and about 1/2" long. I don 't know if that is realistic...for the moment I'll get something from McMaster Carr but I'm concerned about the huge number of cycles these springs will have to sustain. One potential problem is that the pump itself will be inaccessible when the engine is assembled. To get to it, I'd have to take the engine out and remove the flywheel. Thankfully, that isn't a big deal on a brass car but it isn't the sort of repair you can do on the side of the road.
  4. To me at least, whitewalls make the car look as if it's sitting on roller skates...especially when you've got fairly small wheels.
  5. Well...I put it together and tried it. It looks as if I'll have to incorporate the springs. It did draw up some oil but not enough, or fast enough, to be satisfactory. I am going to take it apart again on the test stand to see if the blades are actually moving - they may not be. Getting the right fit and finish is proving to be a real challenge. jp
  6. Many years ago I gave one of those away. I seem to remember it had a black face with white lettering. j
  7. I have a lot of respect for Heldt. He appears to have stayed right on top of current developments but I'm surprised he knew about aluminum pistons in 1916... that's really interesting because in 1914, at the beginning of WWI. W.O. Bentley showed them to the Admiralty - he'd been using them in his racing cars but until then he'd kept it secret. The Admiralty was so impressed that they commissioned him into the Navy as a Lt. and assigned him to aircraft engine design. As he tells the story, he left that morning to see Admiral Hall and came back as a naval officer.
  8. I have been struggling away with the oil pump. This is probably the most precise thing I've ever made and getting it right is proving a challenge. I finally got the rotor in and I've lapped the vanes so that they slide by gravity with no noticeable side-to-side play. I then put it together and discovered that it binds slightly when the cap screws were tightened down - but not when they were slightly loose. It took me nearly all day to figure this one out but now I think I've got it. It looks as if the small end center shaft - that takes the place of the camshaft - is very slightly off center. I'll make another one tomorrow but in the meantime, I did get it so that it turns with only a hint of binding. With luck, I may be able to assemble it and test it tomorrow although first I'll have to buy a gallon of cheap motor oil because I don't want to use the abrasive stuff I used the first time.
  9. If the shaft is case hardened it shouldn't make much of a difference. The case will only be a skin on the surface of the shaft - maybe only about .010 thick. The center of the shaft should be soft so drilling & reaming won't be a challenge. When it comes to turning the shaft, the welding will probably have destroyed the case. That said, I've worked on a few armature shafts (albeit not always for cars) and so far none was hardened. Socket head set screws called the "Allen Safety Set Screw" were first marketed in 1910 so they aren't even anachronistic in this application. I'd also dispense with a keyway for a woodruff key on the end of the shaft and just mill a flat, then use a flat point set screw to secure the pulley. Milling the keyway is nice, but really not necessary as long as the set screw rides on a flat. The pressure developed is probably not sufficient to require a key. [edit] As a further to the above. It is very likely that the armature shaft has center holes in it. I would do the final turning on centers rather than holding the armature in a chuck. In thinking about this, I realize I did this with a very large 3-phase motor that I made new bearings for many years ago. It worked so well that the motor (which is likely close to 100 years old) has been in regular use for the last 15 years without any problems.
  10. I know I'm older than you are Jeff and I've never had a garage to park a car in... on the worst day this winter when the temperature was about zero, I had to pour boiling water over the driver's door to get it open.
  11. I think it would be very nearly impossible to make the two ends match perfectly straight. Of course, I haven't seen the car in the UK and the gentleman who did it might be a brilliant welder but what you are describing would, at the very least, take an elaborate fixture to hold the two pieces in perfect alignment while being welded. If I were trying to do it with welding, I'd turn the broken end with the armature flat while holding the armature in a 4-jaw chuck and carefully indicated so that the shaft was running true. Then drill and ream a hole - maybe 1/4" or less in the center and put a sharp taper on the piece. I'd then make the extension piece, a tiny bit larger (maybe .050 or .070) drilling and tapering that. When the two pieces were pressed together, there would be a "V" groove that could be welded. Then the diameter could be turned taking a little off the surface of the extension piece which should compensate for any warpage caused by the welding. It would still be a very tricky thing to do. If necessary, the extension could be turned slightly smaller than the original piece putting a tiny shoulder in the shaft and the "V" groove pulley made with a slightly smaller diameter hole in the center. Fixing that with JB Weld is about as idiotic a repair as I've ever seen.
  12. A very good friend of mine did that with a Chrysler Imperial 80 engine back in the 70s. He simply could not find appropriate valves so he had them welded with Stellite and reground them. I believe he ground the head flat as well. You couldn't tell they'd been welded when he was done and, as far as I know, they are still in use today. There is nothing wrong with the technique though in this case, the workmanship may be questionable.
  13. Vane pumps were invented in the 1870s and are described and illustrated in Heldt's book. He mentions their occasional use for both oil and water. The Mercer used a simplified version of the vane pump for oil. I chose to use one for two reasons... they are self-priming and whatever pump I use has to be able to pull oil up from the sump because the pump is located on the back of the engine. That location was determined by the need to have some means of driving the pump. The original system was a semi-total loss with an oiler on the side of the engine, belt driven from the front pulley. There is no built-in drive for an oil pump and, in any case, I am trying not to make any permanent modifications to the original parts of the engine. The only place I could think of to put the pump was on the back of the camshaft taking the place of the rear camshaft bearing holder. In putting the pump there, there are serious size limits because it fits inside the front rim of the flywheel. I also thought of making a pump that could be driven by the water pump/magneto shaft but that would have had to be self-priming as well. There was no way I could think of locating a gear pump low enough on the engine so that it did not have to pull oil up from the sump. I actually started out with a gear pump design and have designed both gear and plunger pumps for this application – neither of which were anywhere as near and simple as this pump.
  14. If it doesn't work I would certainly consider that path but part of my goal is to do everything using the technology readily available during the working life of the car which, I tend to think of as 1910 to 1915. I don't claim to have entirely succeeded, at least in that the some of the materials I've used don't fit that criteria and a few of my machines are a bit newer. That said, the reason behind all the testing is that I want to run the pump, and eventually the entire oiling system, off the car for a considerable time before it is assembled on the engine. This is probably the most critical element of the engine work since everything else is relatively uninnovative. My primary engineering text is the 1910/1912 edition P.M. Heldt's The Gasoline Automobile. There are elements I've stretched the logic on - the use of aluminum pistons is something Heldt didn't mention but I know that W.O. Betley was using them in his DFP racing cars before 1914. The same can be said for aluminum connecting rods which were at the very beginning of their development during WWI and don't really start to be adopted until after the war and then only in an experimental sense. Some of my diversions from the goal are simply dictated by what I can make with the machines I have. There is more to the oiling system than I've mentioned so far. In addition to the vane pump, I'm designing a small hand pump to incorporate in the system that will allow me to pump up oil pressure before the engine is started. I'm not yet sure how that will work but it might give me a margin of safety should the vane pump fail in use...maybe. It is just the concerns you mention that make me want to test the system without the springs. The basic pump is an extremely simple device. If it works as it is, it will be practically indestructible as long as there is oil in it.
  15. The vanes are only slightly more than 1/2" tall and 1/4" thick. If I drilled a hole through them and filled it with lead - which might be a lot more difficult than it sounds, I doubt the difference in weight would be significant. I think that making a fixture and drilling holes for coil springs - for that I could probably get some springs that are actually made for vane pumps - might be easier. This is a rare situation where a small, precise drill press or mill would be an advantage but I recoil at buying another machine to do just one job.