JV Puleo

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JV Puleo last won the day on August 8

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About JV Puleo

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 11/01/1951

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Smithfield, Rhode Island
  • Interests:
    Brass era... teens & 20s

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  • Biography
    A lifelong Brass Car enthusiast

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  1. Today I bored the hole out to be threaded. Without moving the piece, I set up the threading. This involved changing the drive gear and using this boring bar as a threading tool. The thread is too deep for the little dedicated tool I use for most everything else. This is just a boring bar with a 1/4" tool ground to a 60-degree profile. I made it years ago to thread the backing plate that is holding the chuck in these pictures. It took time... I wanted the thread to be smooth as I'm not sure the lapping trick works all that well with an extremely coarse thread like this. Aside from being called out to help a friend whose car wouldn't start it went smoothly. I then counterbored it 1/2" to 1-3/4 because the threads end short on the dividing head spindle. Much to my satisfaction, it threaded on without any issues. I finished this about 3:30 but truth to tell, it left me so knackered (the result of the tension I always suffer when doing things like this) that I looked around for something easy and decided to start turning down the OD of the plate. As you can see, the threading gauge is also the tool for holding the plate.
  2. The British HP formula - instituted for taxation purposes - was based on bore. The stroke was largely ignored because at the time it was adopted the prevailing notion was that stroke didn't matter. This was disproved very early on but the formula was written into the law so British engine designers made long stroke, small bore engines getting constantly increasing HP but keeping the relevant HP tax as low as they possibly could. This formula worked against Ford before WWI because the Model T had a relatively large bore for it's stroke and thus had to pay a higher tax than a comparable British car. That's why we see cars like the 30/98 Vauxhall - 30 taxable HP, 90 real HP.
  3. I made another bushing... And I mis-measured the hole again. This one was also too small but only by a few thousandths. Rather than do it a third time, I put a coarse knurl on it. And glued it into the hole with Locktite gell super glue. While it was setting I cleaned up the mill. Then I put it in the chuck and faced it off. My only concern was that the Locktite might not hold it firmly enough but as I'd driven it in with a plastic hammer, it was tight enough. I faced it down until the two pieces were flush. Then took it out of the lathe and drilled two holes for Dutchmen. For this I used #4 tapered pins. That will hold the bushing very firmly in place. I might have second thoughts about this technique if the backing plate was going in a lathe but to hole a chuck on a dividing head it should be fine. I then put it back in the lathe and faced it off until everything was flush. Next I'll bore and thread the bushing but it's already 5 PM so I'll leave that for tomorrow. Now I'll go home and work on my book.
  4. I didn't get much done today with a late start... but I did finish the dummy spindle for the dividing head. I knurled the end... And drilled a hole for a tommy bar should it get stuck when I'm threading it into the back plate. The whole thing came out pretty good. I started on the bushing for the backing plate but - and this should be a lesson to me - I'd written down one of the dimensions incorrectly and turned it down too much so tomorrow I'll have to start again.
  5. As much as I admire PA's engineering I've never thought those "frog eye" headlights were attractive and would have been one of those buyers who wanted traditional separate lights. They wouldn't keep me from owning one (should I be so lucky) but if I had a choice I'd take the car with the separate lights. But, I don't like Cords either so chances are my tastes are not exactly "mainstream."
  6. Today I tried again at the dummy spindle nose for the dividing head... The piece turned down to 1-3/4" And the relief the end of the thread milled. This 5TPI thread is so coarse that the depth of the cut is .130 and I have to use my largest threading tool. I'm not certain I've ever used it before but I'll need quite a bit of space at the end of the thread – too much to make the slot with the cut off tool. I forgot to take a picture of the threading operation. suffice it to say that with a thread this deep I had to take very small cuts because it's taking off a lot of surface with each cut. It was tedious but it came out just about perfect. Here it is with the spindle protector that came with the dividing head screwed on. I am very lucky to have this part because otherwise I'm not sure what I'd have used as a gauge to check the threads. I also dug out the original end of the crankshaft and starting handle. I've never cut the dog teeth because I simply couldn't think of a way to do it. I did find a drawing of the cutter that was used in the 1927 SAE handbook. I'm going to email that to the gentleman who re-cut the tapered end mills for me and have him make one. It turns out I'd been looking at it incorrectly and it isn't as much of a challenge as I'd thought - but you still need an odd end mill with a reverse taper.
  7. This morning I picked this up. It's a tapered end mill reground to the taper of the Bosch magneto shaft (which is a very odd size). I'll use it I make the "snap starter" (to use the term the inventor coined). Making the odd tapered hole, putting in a key way and broaching the corresponding key way will be interesting. I will probably take two or three special tools and I still have to think about those. I also started on the backing plate for the dividing head. This is the 12L14 bar I was waiting for. This stuff machines very easily and threads beautifully. It is almost impossible to weld but very few things I make call for welding. I drilled and bored to 1" Then, because the setup is identical, did the same thing to the bushing that will press into the backing plate. I then set the first piece up on centers for turning and threading. I don't do much this way but it's essential if you want the hole in the center to be absolutely concentric with the threads. It also has the added advantage of allowing you to take the piece out of the lathe, try it, and put it back. As long as the dog goes into the same slot it will have no effect. This is particularly useful if you are threading something that has to screw into a part that cannot be checked with the piece in the machine.
  8. All done. It took much of the day because they had to be done one at the time but it was worth the effort. It's starting to look like an engine. Oh, and the material for the dividing head project finally arrived so tomorrow I'll be back on that. I'm actually grateful it took so long because otherwise I wouldn't have gotten to the priming cups.
  9. Wow... you are getting very good very fast! It is really pretty astonishing how fast problems vanish when you get accustomed to just making what you need. jp
  10. I ran the pump for two hours today with no leaks so I think I've probably solved that set of problems. UPS is still dithering with my piece of 12L14 - so I decided to tackle another job I had waiting in the wings. The priming cups. This engine uses right angle primers which are a lot less common than the straight ones and in as much as I've seen, frightfully expensive. I bought a set about three years ago - sight unseen on ebay while I was in England. When I got home I realized they were the wrong thread so I've been fishing about for a way to use them. I started to make little adapters...then realized that I could use the ones I already had if I counterbored them to 1/2". The first step was to make a tool to hold them. Its just a piece of 1" bar with a 1/8 NPT threaded hole but it allows me to hold the piece in a 1" collet. Then I counterbored them with a 1/2" end mill to a depth of 1/2". That was easy. The next step was trickier. I made a similar tool with a 1/4 NPT thread, stripped the lever and spring from the primer and screwed it in. I had to grind a tool to get into the space between the hex and the flare of the cup and set a stop on the lathe so I wouldn't move it back too far and hit the cup. Then turned the hex and the threaded part of the primer down to 1/2". When I had the diameter correct, I cut it off at 1/2" Much to my satisfaction it slipped right into the counterbore so I soldered it in place. Then reassembled the primer and tried it in the engine. I think this is about as neat a job as I've ever done. Now I just have to do three more.
  11. Al... I have an adjustable spare bracket but I think it might be for the side of the body. I'll find it and take a photo. jp
  12. The piece of metal I've been waiting for is now overdue...odd because another piece I ordered at the same time from the same supplier arrived Monday. In the meantime I've been fiddling with the pump. I started by putting a notch in the pump shaft for the set screw. I had intended to use a Woodruff key as well but in thinking about it, I can't see that the stresses are great enough to warrant it. When I tightened the cap screws on the circumference it tightened the pump just enough to make it hard to turn so I relieved the impeller about .005 on the OD and about .015 in thickness. I reassembled the pump and ran it for 15 minutes. It's actually running in the picture but the shutter speed of the point & shoot camera is so fast it stops the action. As far as I can see, there are no leaks in the pump although the connections to the vinyl tubing leave something to be desired. It's still a bit tighter than I'd like but I'm thinking I'll let it run for a couple of hours and see if it loosens up a little.
  13. There's no reason to think they bought the car new. By about 1930 or 32 a 25 or 26 Studebaker of any model would have been just about worthless.
  14. Those look really good! I think you are progressing a lot faster than I did.
  15. The aluminum Devcon smoothed out. Since the impeller doesn't touch this I left a little extra on the surface. This is the dividing head in the vertical position. I've never used it this way because you have to use a chuck that screws on to the spindle - which is why I'm making one now.