Jump to content

JV Puleo

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


JV Puleo last won the day on June 4 2020

JV Puleo had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

4,546 Excellent

About JV Puleo

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 11/01/1951

Profile Information

  • Location
    Smithfield, Rhode Island

Recent Profile Visitors

3,655 profile views
  1. A B&S #3 horizontal mill. It's one of the "late" ones - probably about 1917. The gear box on the side controlled the horizontal feed speeds. The earlier machines had another 3 or 4-step pulley rather than a gear box and only had that many choices. The speeds are relative to the spindle speed - all of which is much more limiting than a modern machinist would expect. But, ALL of our brass cars and a lot of others up to the 1930s were built with machines like this. I had an "00" - the smallest version of this, serial #41 (c.1897-98). I made a gear that is now in the apron of my lathe with it
  2. I don't know how it could be organized - and I'm not volunteering - but taking Jeff's suggestion a bit further I suspect that what might be useful is a place to archive digitized data. There is probably too much work involved to create 3D files for parts on spec but wouldn't it be nice if there was a place to store data that had already been done and that another enthusiast might need in the future. This is just an idea...I can see all sorts of pitfalls not the least of which is that with the technology changing constantly the files might be obsolete in a very short time. I don't begin to be q
  3. Quitting when I did was the right thing to do because the the rest of the job went smoothly once I was rested. After drilling the hole to 1//16 (.8125) - I used an .820 end mill to bore the hole and give it a flat bottom. This technique seems to work best when the finished size is very close to the drill hole. The size, .820, is withing .005 or the optimum size - well within the tolerances for threading. Then I lined up a tap and started the thread. And finished it using the tap wrench. That was the RH threaded
  4. Today's project was one of my own ideas...an adjuster for the front tie rod. Why? Because all I have are bent fragments of the original rod. I will be able to calculate the approximate width when the front axle is reinstalled but the tie rod is bent to miss the front springs – it runs in front of the axle. I will have to thread the ends before it is bent which means getting the exact width is critical - and I will have to compensate for the bend. By threading on the tie rod ends and adding this adjuster I will have a good 2 to 3 inches of adjustment so I will not have to be precisely on when m
  5. For a car of this period I suspect this is about the best place you could show it. There are other venues out there but my guess is that this forum has the largest and most diverse readership interested in an original car of this period anywhere on the internet. Nearly all of the other venues lean towards later (and usually much later) cars. The single exception would be prewarcar.com but I'd try it here first - which won't cost you anything - before going that route,
  6. Those look great to me Ted...I could not have done better. As to a dividing head that takes a hex collet, I think you'd need a head that takes 5C collets and are larger than the center hole in any dividing head I've seen. Theoretically, you should be able to hold a hex with a 3-jaw chuck but the 3/4 part of those is so short you'd probably have a hard time getting it straight. If you position the footstock to hold the center it might work. Another idea would be to get a hex sleeve and slit it (like I did with the fixture I just made) and hold that in the chuck. When the jaws are tightened
  7. Gary, I like those. I'll have to look at the springs again and decide if I have enough material to bore them out for bushings like that. My problem is that they had no bushing at all. Today was one of those where most things went sideways...I started by losing the keys to the shop. Everything eventually worked out but I didn't get a lot done. I did make this fixture to hold the tie rod ends while the slot is milled in them. I have to hold them by the round part and coming up with a way to do that took some thought. I used this piece of 1-1/2" square aluminum and bored it to 1-1/4...
  8. It looks to me as if you have a largely untouched car in surprisingly good original condition. It's certainly worth something although almost no cars from the late teens to the mid-20s are considered "hot" properties today. I only say that to disabuse you of any television-related notions of value - you may well not be suffering from that problem. The location of the car is important...and you might want to move this post to the general section. Not as many people read the library sub-forum.
  9. I think it's an iron head PI unless it was heavily updated. Servo operated front brakes and vertical shutters on the radiator. Some Ghosts were updated with front brakes but I've only seen Westinghouse air brakes fitted to a ghost chassis and this car has the cables running back to the servo on the transmission. They may well have done the complete change over but putting P1 styled 4-wheel brakes on a Ghost chassis would have required changing the transmission.
  10. Around 1971, when I had my first old car, a 1927 Cadillac, I was stopped by the side of the road and an older gentleman, he may have been in his 60s or 70s at the time, came over to look at it. He was a talker and entertained us for an hour with stories about cars he'd known in the 20s and 30s. One of the stores he told us was that there was a Dusenberg buried in a yard in Pawtucket, RI. He went so fat as to tell me where it was and that it had been used by a gang of bootleggers...but was too distinctive so, to "get rid of the evidence" they buried it. As clearly outrageous as that might be, a
  11. I have exactly the same reaction to fussy, delicate work on original components. I have to wait until my mind is clear, I'm not too stressed and, preferably, in the late morning before I've gotten tired. It is the underlying reason why I'm more comfortable making parts than fixing them. If something goes wrong, you can always start over. That isn't the case where the part you are working on is irreplaceable. I think you mean 1/2-13. 1/2-14 is a real thread but it is VERY archaic - I doubt it's been used much since before WWI. There was also 1/2-12 - which was a little mor
  12. I finished the radius rod ends today... And, because it's the same set up, did the tie rod ends. In this case I don't have a 5/8 x 1-1/2" shoulder bolt so in order to hold them to the fixture I pressed in a bushing. The bushings are actually for one end of the radius rods so I'll have to press them out to re-use them. The length of cut on this end mill is just enough to do the job. In this case, the radius is strictly cosmetic - they would work if I'd left them square but would look completely oout of place. Done with that
  13. I haven't gotten to them yet but I have the identical problem with my spring shackles. Some of the original "pins" which were hardware store grade carriage bolts - were very badly worn. Those may have been old replacements but they were drilled for oil fitting that match others on the car so I can 't be certain of that. The holes in both the springs and the shackle mount attached to the chassis are very egg shaped and the hole in the spring, which is just the bent spring eye was none too fine to begin with. I will bush the springs. I haven't decided whether to use bronze or some modern steel b
  14. I could have used bronze and I did think about it but in this case I'm replicating a part that was made in one piece – from a forging – and did not include bushings. I will use bronze bushings on one side - where the pin is 1/2" in diameter. I used 5/8" on all of them to avoid having to make a 2nd fixture, though as it turned out, that wouldn't have been a problem. In the case of the steel-to-steel connection, this is a place where the original parts show very little wear so I am guessing that a bronze bushing isn't necessary. What wear there is, is on the bolt that passes through the bracket
  15. At the end of the day Wednesday I set up this fixture to mill a radius on the ends I've been making. I actually made this for the spring shackles... About 20 minutes into milling I decided it wasn't going to work and I'd have to think of something else. While an idea was germinating, I took Thursday to paint over the graffiti "decorating" the back of the building the shop is in. It's a pointless waste of time because now the local "artists" will see a new, blank canvas. But, the insurance company threatened to cancel the policy on the building unless we sent the
  • Create New...