JV Puleo

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Everything posted by JV Puleo

  1. I would not be particularly worried. I think it is clearly better. If it is limescale, as Terry suggests, there are commercial solutions to address this. You could also use lemon juice or vinegar. This will have no effect on the cast iron so it cannot hurt anything. This is actually the problem I face with my own car as the ground water where I live is very hard and I'm worried about it eventually clogging the radiator if I'm not careful. I doubt it needs a treatment like you'd use on a locomotive boiler.
  2. I have some experience with the Wraith. It was the last pre-war small HP car, essentially the final development of the 20 HP introduced in 1921 or 22 (I forget the exact year). A real problem is that just about the only German bomb to hit the RR plant during WWII demolished the storeroom where most of the remaining spares were kept. I once made an exhaust manifold for one because the chance of getting a usable original is just about impossible. I think Ed is spot on...if it needs and interior and paint even half that price is probably beyond any reasonable expectation...EVEN if the engine is "rebuilt" and I have my reservations about that. The engine is not overly complicated like a Phantom III (V12) but any RR engine requires an attention to detail that I think is lacking in 99% of the automotive machine shops.
  3. I'm still in the UK...going to the National Archives next week.
  4. After you have done the detergent, I think I'd run a strong solution of distilled water and water soluble oil through the system, hopefully to prevent any rust being generated before you are able to fill the system. Fortunately, cast iron is naturally rust resistant...it does not rust nearly as quickly or as deeply as steel. The main reason we have these problems is that the system is wet all the time so something to inhibit rust is always a good idea.
  5. Nice job! I've always thought early Buicks were excellent cars and a consistently good buy. Like everything else, they have their quirks and problems but it is ground that has been covered many times before so, if nothing else, the information is out there.
  6. I've booked a B&B about 1 mile from the archives. I've never done that before so we'll have to see how it works. I've been to Kew quite a few times but have always driven from Cheltenham and back. On one occasion the return trip took 11 hours because I got stuck in a horrific traffic jam around Oxford. I have about 30 volumes of the Privy Council Registers to go through checking numbers on export licenses between 1792 and 1810 (it's very exciting stuff!). These volumes are the hand written minutes of the Privy Council. There is no other place to get this information as it has never been published and isn't available on line. The only way to do it is to go to Kew and look for yourself. If I get that done, I have a few volumes of Ordnance Bill Books to look at.
  7. First Class is WAY beyond my means...I'll be in Kew at the national archives for a week. After that I'm not sure what is in store. Mike...when I'm done in London I will try to make it up to Norfolk - sort of the long way home back to Cheltenham. I'll be in touch as things develop. This is my last chance to sort out details for my book so I've promised myself that I'll do that first. jp
  8. Thanks Mike...I'm in the UK now and, to some extent, recovered from the jet lag. I find it hard to sleep on airplanes so the trip, from home to here takes something more than 24 hours and I'm getting old for that sort of exertion.
  9. Here's the radiator. It looks better in these photos than it is. It was made by McCord - vertical tubes with thin brass fins. And this drawing I made in the process of figuring out how to make a core. I have photos of the Mitchell that carried the first trans-continental military dispatch which was of the same model but must have been a prototype because the trip was made in 1909 and the car wasn't offered for sale until 1910. That car had a honeycomb radiator. The radiator is about 2" thick but there is room for a core 2-1/4" or even 2-3/8" thick. Chances are, Mitchell just bought the cheapest radiator they could find. [CORRECTION] The radiator is 2-1/2 inches thick and there is room for 2-3/4".
  10. I've just a few things to tidy up before I leave. Today I made new gaskets for the inlet and output sides of the pump. These are 1/8" thick, made from a rubber material that is semi-hard. I punched the center hole and then turned the OD on the lathe using the tools I made a few days ago. I get it down to a few thousandths more than the tool and then finish it with sand paper. It's probably a bit over the top but I think messy gaskets really detract from the job. Here they are in place on the output side... And with both ends assembled. I'm not going to bother testing it again since I know it works. The only thing I'd be looking for are leaks and all of the places where it leaked have now been addressed. I also took some pictures of the radiator but I'll post those tonight with the dimensions – which are at home.
  11. Great job Ted...and really, its a gas tank...if it was perfect it probably wouldn't be authentic.
  12. It's a well known car. I was told – and cannot verify this – that RR was so horrified by it that they cancelled the warranty on the car. Photos of it have been around the RR community for years, always citing it as about the worst body ever mounted on one - although I'd be inclined to give that trophy to some of the creations for Indian rajas and native princes.
  13. I was planning on making a cartridge core. I even designed a little machine to swedge the tubes but I'm not adverse to buying one. I just won't (or more accurately can't) pay thousands for a radiator. Mitchell used a separate shell so I don't have the problem of making perfect brass tanks. Supposedly, the 1910 cars had brass shells and the 1911 cars had steel shells. I have my doubts it is that clear cut...most of the restorations have brass shells but that could easily be the usual business of getting as much brass on the car as the owner can justify. I prefer the steel shell because it draws out the line of the hood a little. One of the people I've been exchanging information with has offered to make me a shell. I have a radiator, albeit in very sad condition...too far gone to be used but good for dimensions. If I can I'll take a picture tomorrow and post the dimensions. Thanks,' jp
  14. Thanks Ed. I am certain it is much better for you suggestions.
  15. This is the front plate with the grease fitting fitted. I them milled a notch in the split bushing. It's 9/16" rather than 1/2" to give it a little clearance. Next I turned a notch in the bushing and drilled 4 holes at 90-degrees so the grease can reach the shaft. Then removed the extra 1/4". And pressed all the bushings in. So here it is assembled... And, in going through my stuff I found this neat little syringe that I will make into a "water pump only" grease gun for the special threaded fitting.
  16. Oh, I sleep, but I don't have a TV and I haven't many friends in the area. I don't have a wife or children either so I've very few distractions. I do machine work during the day and writing/editorial work at night. When not doing either I read. I find the British National Archives quite easy to work with...it's a new facility (or at least in the last 15 years). The catalog is not difficult to use and if you have a problem so far I've found the staff very helpful. If you have a lot to do (as I do this time) you can request more the material in advance and they will have it ready when you arrive. Oddly enough, I've never been to the US Archives in Washington but I've been to Kew many times.
  17. I'm visiting friends and planning to spend a fair amount of time in the National Archives where I have a large number of figures to check for the book I am working on and that I expect to finish this year - so this is my last chance.
  18. Moving along with the business of putting 2 seals on each side of the pump, I reduced the longer of the two bushings by 1/4" I then made an aluminum ring 1/4" thick to act as a dummy seal when I press the bearing in so it will stop at the right spot. That worked just fine... I then moved on to the front plate of the pump. This once is even more challenging because the grease has to go in through the boss on the plate as well as the split bushing which can 't come off once the timing adjuster is fitted. It is also under the cap that holds everything together and I'm loath to put a hole in that. After buying several grease fittings I came up with another idea. I made one of my threaded sleeves....1`/2-20 OD and 3/-16 ID. This will screw into the boss and I will put a notch in the split bushing to accommodate it. I've seen fittings like this before but I don't think on a car...the grease gun has a threaded tip that screws into the hole. When it's charged with grease, a grub screw is put in to plug the hole. The threaded sleeve has to be short enough so that it will not touch the cap that holds the pump but long enough to have a few threads. This sleeve is just under 1/2" so the grease gun will screw in 7 or 8 threads. You'll have to take the cap off to grease the front bearing but it is easily accessible. Lining up the front plate to drill the hole was something of a problem because I super-glued the brass studs in. I finally came up with something, having left last night wondering how to do it. I used a long center drill to start the hole. This drill is 1/2" in diameter so I set it so it was only about .003 from the face of the plate. Then drilled the hole... and tapped it... I put the sleeve in with a drop of Locktite on the threads but forgot to take a picture...next I'll do the notch in the split bushing but it's late and my back hurts so that's for tomorrow.
  19. This is really impressive work. It looks as if you've built the entire body in 12 weeks...
  20. I'll try. So far we have had an extremely mild winter so perhaps the weather will follow me over. I've taken Ed's suggestions very much to heart...they remind me of one of my favorite quotes from Poor Richard's Almanac, "A wise man learns from other's mistakes. A fool has to make his own." I'm trying to finish the water pump before I leave...I may even do it. The grease cup came out better than it had any right to.
  21. Real water pump grease apparently isn't as easy to find as it once was. Somewhere I have a can of Oilzum that I bought in the Summer of 1971. I suspect it's oxidized by now so I was going to buy some Castrol when I'm in the UK next week. I mentioned this to a friend who was fixing something in my shop today and he said "don't bother" - he has several cans of it. I did plan I'd rather use the real stuff but it's good to know that is the right decision.
  22. I like the O-ring idea. I'm afraid that removing enough bushing to add another seal would take to much away from the bearing surface though I've no data to tell me one way or the other. As it is, it's 1-1/2" on one side and 1-1/4" on the other side. The seals take up 1/4" so I'd loose that much on either side. Does that sound reasonable to you? On second thought...total length of bearing with 2 seals is still 2-1/4" which ought to be plenty given the relatively low stress on it, especially if no water can get to the shaft. Ed, you got me thinking so I did a quick search on bearing loads. In as much as my limited math skills allow it appears that the maximum recommended bearing surface is 4:1 (bearing length:shaft diameter). With a 3/4" shaft the length ratio is 3:1 WITH the two seals.
  23. To finish the grease cup I had to make another holding fixture. Another example of 2 hours to make the tool and 20 minutes to do the job. I think I'm my most severe critic but in this case I can't see how the job could have come out any better. In order for the greast to get to the shaft I put a groove in the bushing... and drilled 4 holes at 90 degrees. Then pressed the bushing back in. One little additional piece was the rear cover plate. I think it was rubbing a little and, since I reused this from the previous pump (and all the holes weren't drilled at the same time) I'm not surprised. In any case, it's just a cover for the seal so I drilled it out to 13/16 using a piece of the previous pump to hold it.
  24. I've lived in RI my entire life and owned business here. While I have plenty to complain about, I doubt it is the worst spot. We had a thriving yacht building business until the State decided to tax it into oblivion - never thinking that people who could million dollar yachts could afford to have them built anywhere. That said, I am certain you will do your homework before trying to set up here and I doubt our state and local governments are any more bothersome than the County Council is wherever you are (I looked at the web site but didn't see the location). Ed makes a good point in that that the few people who do this sort of work are aging out. The fact that it is a very limited market is just as true in the UK as it is here. Distances in the US may be greater but Americans are accustomed to that. I doubt that for a custom built body, the distances would be much of an issue. Its clear from your web site and the attached links that you know the business. Location is more a matter of convenience (although I would stay clear of California). You might try contacting the RI Dept. of Business Regulation. The state is so small that your enquiry will probably end up on the evening news. They will, of course try to make the place sound enticing but also can tell you what the average costs are and perhaps steer you in the direction of an area where such a business would be welcome.