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About Sloth

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  • Birthday 01/21/1953

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  1. Started very early in the morning, cleaning the ladle and used fresh Babbitt. I started Babbitting the remaining shells, they came out very nice and shiny. This got me worrying, why are the shells I poured yesterday much more dull. Long story short, I cleaned the shells I poured yesterday and started all over again. I did not mix the "old" Babbitt with the fresh Babbitt. After pouring, all of the shells came out nice and shiny. I am satisfied now. Probably something wrong with the "old" Babbitt? I don't know. @Al, bubbles are mostly caused by moisture. Cleanliness and slow heating before
  2. Hello Gary, Thank you for your warning. I am aware of the pitfalls using the infrared thermometer, but using the black inner side of the ladle I get a stable temperature reading. For the molten Babbitt in the ladle, usually I use a themocouple. But as I broke it last summer, and promptly forgot to order a replacement, I have to rely on the infrared thermometer. Regards, Harm
  3. Today I went for pouring the bearing shells and bushing. First thing to do, tinning the shells and bushing. I use flux (S39 new formula not so aggressive as the S39 of the past) and as for the tinning I use bearing material chips. For heating I use a simple map gas torch, overheating is nearly impossible with it. The Babbitt chips where left over from the Babbitting of the Flanders20 bearings. I think using the same material for tinning is better than tinning with solder. After careful cleaning the shells and bushing with a solution of water and ammonia (stinky stuff), I left them dry on and e
  4. Hello Ed, I heat the fixture by torch, as the pouring and forced cooling of the base of the fixture is done by a plant sprayer its quite a messy affair. Pictures in next post. Regards, Harm
  5. Today, I completed the two fixtures needed for Babbitting the bearing shells and cushion block bushing. Not much to report about it. Fixture for the main bearing shells ( front view). Fixture for the main bearing shells ( side view). Fixture for the main bearing shells with shell, ready to pour the Babbitt. Parts for the fixture needed for Babbitting the bushing for the cushion block. Assembled the fixture for the bushing, the tube parts is turned one degree taper, this is done to remove the tube more eas
  6. Today I made the fixture for Babbitting the main bearing shells and the con rod shells. Made the mold of hot rolled steel, and the mandrels (one for the main bearings and one for the con rod bearing which is smaller in diameter) of black tube. I split the tube lengthwise and brazed end pieces and a middle piece into the half tubes. The end pieces are inserted for preventing Babbitt entering the mandrel during the pouring. The middle piece is needed for fixing the mandrel to the mold, using just one fixing screw at the back side. The fixture for fixing the shell against the mold is the only th
  7. Hello Al, Thanks for your trust in me 🙂. The shells and bushing are made of bearing bronze RG-7, very easy to solder. The solid bearing tube is used for the cushion block. The cushion block is mounted on the chassis rails, and functions as a third bearing for the crankshaft. The crankshaft is quite long and slender, and is carrying a heavy load (flywheel 65 Lbs and gearbox 28 Lbs), so it needs a sturdy bearing. Regards, Harm PS Anna and I watched the inauguration of Mr. Biden and Mrs. Harris, very moving!
  8. Hello, @Jeff, Terry and Joe, thank you very much for your comment. Started very early in the morning, after kicking my self, for forgetting to roughen up the inside of the shells and bushing. After spending some time at the very informative site of the Old Motor, I decided that threading the bearing shells and bushing is the only way to go. So I spend today to correct the bushing and shells. This is how I did it: I soldered the shells together on the edges, with tiny solder blobs. Then put the shells into the 4 jaw independent jaw chuck. Centered the shells, and started
  9. Hello Ed, Thank you for your remark, you are absolutely right. So I spent today to correct it (see below). Regards, Harm
  10. Hello, After some weeks of no Cleveland progress, today, I continued with the bearing bushings of the Cleveland. The lack of progress was caused by some long over due chores. I replaced all the electric wiring at the work shop and disassembled the engine of my Ford model A for having the cylinders sleeved and have the engine block milled back to standard dimensions. Luckily all the bearings are fine, all had some shims left, so adjusting them is still possible (if needed). Today I split the bushings with a thin 0.02" saw cutter, everything went well, each pass about 0.02", easy does
  11. Tuesday, I completed the boring bar. The suggestion of JV Puleo (Joe thanks!), to put a small spring under the tool bit, works excellent. I used a part of the spring of a ballpoint, not too weak and not too stiff. After some experimenting with the tool bit set up tools, I decided not to clamp the tools on the boring bar for set up. The space between the mill and the engine casting is too small, just no wiggle room enough. Yesterday and today, I made the bushings for the bearing shells and the bush for the cushion block (bearing at the end of the crankshaft). I have to turn one other bush
  12. Hello, Made two tools for measuring the height of the cutting tool bit, relative to the boring bar. Indicators for measuring and adjusting cutting tool bit @edinmass I experimented a bit with the half round block and the V block. I think the V block is a bit easier to use, and a easier to make. So I opted for the V block design. The setting (adjusting) tool is on the right of the picture. The black hand secures the micrometer. As the micrometer I used came from an old Russian "thing", I had to make a pocket to accommodate it. Each division on the scale
  13. Yesterday morning I started to replace the broken down 3 axis digital readout display of my lathe. The display started to smoke two month ago, and as we all know, electronic devices run on smoke. So when the smoke left the display, its 'kaput'. Tried to repair it, but as the display is of Chinese origin, and at least 10 years old, that attempt came to nothing. I ordered a new one, they are not expensive I payed $90,- and that includes "free shipping". Three weeks ago the package arrived and also did the import duty bill of our customs department. On the end the display costs are $130,-, not to
  14. Hello Joe, Thank you very much for the pictures. Clamping the adjustment tool on the boring bar is the way to go. In the past, I Babbitt-ed the bearings of my Flanders. Adjusting the tool bit was a hell of a job. Took ages to get it right. Never thought to clamp the adjusting tool on the boring bar. Regards, Harm
  15. Today I weighted the piston: 9 Lbs, connecting rod: 6 Lbs. Cleaned both thoroughly, both are in remarkable good condition. So I decided to use them as is. Will go after new piston rings, Ed you mentioned a company in England, do you have a name of the company. I googled, but found several companies making piston rings, I must say I prefer the one which you can recommend. Regards, Harm
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