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About Sloth

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 01/21/1953

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Drenthe, Netherlands
  • Interests:
    Brass cars, Cleveland 1903

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  1. Hello Al, No, they are not the same color. We have selected the plain gray (concrete gray), the existing reddish/pink color pavers, are not available at this moment. The contractor expected a "few" month delivery time, this did not sound good to me..... So, at the end we had to chose the yellow, black or grey ones, we selected the grey pavers. Another point with the colored pavers is color fading, after a year or two, the colors start to fade and become dull, and after ten years the pavers are all grayish. Compaction: as most of the driveway is more than a 100 years old, the sand below the pavers compacted through the years as a rock hard layer of 2 feet thickness. Furthermore, the sand they used a 100 years ago (yellow/red color) contains loam. The contractor fills the holes etc, with the same kind of sand, and after leveling the driveway, they will put on top a few inches of paving sand (sand that does not contain loam or clay). After some months the pavers are settled, and we can use it without a problem. Good to read about buying the Beugler, it will help a lot with the stripping. Regards, Harm
  2. This week no progress at the Cleveland, instead we were very busy with outdoor tasks. After 60 years of service the concrete paving stones disintegrated slowly, so we decided to have the paving stones replaced by new ones. At long last, the contractor called Monday morning to announce that he would start Thursday morning 02 July. Lo and behold, at the promised date they showed up 😃. Delayed by 8 weeks because of the Corona crisis and the non availability of paving stones, last week they resumed business. They brought with them some heavy equipment. They made short work by removing 4500 square feet of old pavers. Anna and I are happy now! Also they are putting in some extra water drains. Tuesday very early, a large truck delivered the first batch of the new pavers, production date 26 of June.... Yesterday day the second truck arrived with the remaining batch. So, Anna and I did a lot of preparation work the the days before the contractor came, removing potted plants (large and heavy), removing tables and seats and so on. As we are not 20 anymore, at the moment we are a bit tired (very much that is). Some pictures: Part of the drive way, old pavers gone, new ones at the side. We need 36 of those pallets with pavers. Square between farmhouse and shop Square between the shops The contractor needs 2 weeks, to complete all activities. I hope, I can find some time to continue restoring the Cleveland. Regards, Harm
  3. Hello Terry, You are right, that are the vestiges of a part line. I will try to make a more detailed picture, the line is clearly visible at the engine in front of me, but does not show clearly on a picture. Thank you for your kind words about the chassis. Took much time to get it that far 😁. Regards, Harm
  4. Hello Joe, According to the literature, Cleveland made the engines themselves. It seems that they had the capabilities to do so, although I have my doubts.... As Ben stated in an earlier post, the Oldsmobile engine and the Cleveland engine look very much the same. Interesting subject to explore further, I have a few friends who own Curved Dashes. As soon as the Corona virus crisis is more or less gone, I will visit them and take pictures and measurements of the engine block. But my first preference is repairing the original Cleveland engine. Regards, Harm
  5. Hello Garry, That are really very nice drawings, I am properly impressed. You are good with it, what program do you use? The weight is not far off, 27.8kg / 61.4 pound. Thank you for spending the time to make these nice 3D drawings. Regards, Harm
  6. Gentlemen, as promised, some detail pictures of the Cleveland engine block. Botom side Right side (as seen from the top deck) Left side (as seen from the top deck) Up side Crank shaft bearing side Cylinder deck Some dimensions: Length of block as pictured: 20.375" Outside dimensions crank shaft bearing side: 11.22" x 4.33" Width of ears at crank shaft bearing side: 5.7" Inside dimensions at crank shaft bearing side: 10" x 3.35 Diameter of cylinder outside: 6" Diameter of cylinder inside: 4.8 Length of cylinder outside: 6" Gentlemen, if you need more dimensions or pictures, please feel free to ask. Regards, Harm
  7. Hello Mike, That is a devastating message. I am saddened to hear about your outlook and to be honest, I really don't have the words. The only thing I can do wishing you a lot of strength, and hope you enjoy our posts. Best regards, Harm
  8. Hello gentlemen, I love this 3D discussion. That's why we report our restorations, don't we? We learn ticks, new techniques, and also old(er) techniques and got tips to make life easier (some times, that is). In my humble opinion, all this, enriches us very much. Terry, I learned a lot from your former posts. Also I followed with great interest your blog on the Practical Machinist forum, were you reported restoring the large Wisconsin engine. I have no problem with the deviation of subject in my blog. I am looking at it as a vacation trip, driving along at a nice touristic route. Sometimes one leaves the main road to look whats behind the next tree, but after a while one returns to the main road. Well, returning to the main road: Today I managed to get the chassis on its four wheels, a milestone is reached! At the moment, I am very happy, although I realize much has to be done. The whole steering gear must be made. I have some parts but a lot must be made/repaired. Further some special nuts for the kingpins and the front stub axles. At last, on all its 4 wheels. Just a better view of the chassis. Picture of left front side Picture of right front side Regards, Harm
  9. Hello Jan, Yes, actually I did. At my former work (aerospace contract research) we did a lot of 3D printing, mostly used it for fast prototyping activities. Well metal printing; let me say, using metal printing wasn't exactly budget friendly..... Another challenge is making the right 3D drawings suitable for metal printing, not budget friendly either. Another department than mine, operated several of those machines, the operators where very skilled high end engineers. I must admit, we needed several exotic metal powders, those are huge cost drivers. One of the biggest advantages of metal printing for my department was, that one could print shapes, who could not be manufactured by conventional machining. For example: complex curves inside a "'semi hidden" cavity or many layers of very small tubes (0.01" diameter). But, mostly, on the end of a project, I had some to explain to the "higher management". At home I have a 3D printer for PVC, ABS etc. filament. A very nice extension of the shop I must say. Regards, Harm
  10. Hello Mike, That are really nice patterns and castings, I am impressed I really love this kind of work! Making a pattern of the Cleveland engine block does not seem too complicated. Its a simple straightforward engine, no hidden cavities. Could be reproduced without much trouble. The only thing which needs improvement, is the thickness of the deck. Its 3/16", and that is a bit on the thin side, I would go for 1/4" or 5/16". The threaded holes for the head studs don't have much meat on them either, improving that is easily done. Regards, Harm
  11. Well, I guess it is possible, but -in my opinion- that would be quite a job to take on. On the other hand, the engine block itself is not complicated. Regards, Harm
  12. Hello gentlemen, Thank you for your comments and encouragement. Before I take on the stitching of the Cleveland engine, I will try it out on a cracked block. If I do not feel save with the process I will stop and thinking again what to do. About the pictures, yes during the stitching process I will make and publish a lot of them. To Edinmass, point taken. To Terry and Ed, I don't have detailed pictures of the engine block. Coming Sunday I plan to make lots of pictures, and will send them to you by PM? Today I received the Babbitt bearing material from Germany and also the repair parts for the NH carburetor from the USA. Each took just 5 days to arrive, to me it seems that the shipping of goods goes better and faster than it did some months ago at the beginning of the Corona crisis. Regards, Harm
  13. Hello Mike, Yes, that happened to me about 8 years ago. At a swap meet, I bought a Splitdorf type A (very early and rare) magneto, but not working. So I contacted a gentleman in the USA to restore it, and send the magneto with a well know shipping company to him. The shipping company managed to lose it...., they could not trace where it was etc. To this day I am still angry about their handling of the case 😡. The man who would restore the magneto told me, that it happened before. Regards, Harm
  14. I discussed the matter with some brass car friends and engine shop owners. Most of them opted for welding... but the more I heard and read about it, the less I liked it. As Ed stated no welding or brazing and right he is! I also tried to contact by telephone, the gentleman Ed advised, but to no avail. So, after a lot of searching on the web I stumbled on ...... (no idea if it is allowed to name the company), I send them an email with some pictures and asked if the repair could be done by myself. I got a reply of Jeff (service manager) and asked some detailed information. Long story short, I will take on the repair by myself, and they will send me all the tools and stuff and I will need to repair this engine. I already got a detailed drawing and instructions of the repair sequence. I know, it is not cheap, but sending the engine to the USA and getting it back isn't cheap either (to say the least). I must admit I am looking forward to it. Regards, Harm
  15. Hello Joe, I think you are right. Coming from 'alternative' use would explain why only the engine and gearbox were found. Today, the crack dye arrived. After applying it, no new cracks showed up. Regards, Harm