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About Sloth

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  • Birthday 01/21/1953

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Drenthe, Netherlands
  • Interests:
    Brass cars, Cleveland 1903

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  1. @keizer31, thank you for your kind comment. Yesterday and today, I spend on making the middle part of the hood. I used a flexible kind of plywood, this type of plywood is used mostly by furniture makers. The plywood proved less flexible than I had hoped for. But on the end I got it done. Whats left is rounding the corners, sawing the hatch for the petrol tank and water tank and fit the quarter round moldings on the lower/bottom sides. Furthermore, I made the dash board. Slowly, it begins to look like an automobile. Regards, Harm Hood, left side view Hood, right side view
  2. Started this morning with the construction of the slope nosed hood. Made the sides 1"ash boards. After a lot of try and error, got the slopes right (I think but not sure, as I have no comparable model to hand). See pictures. Tomorrow, I will saw the horizontal part, and glue the whole thing together. The pictures show some dimensional distortion. During the writing of this report, I walked two times to the shop to convince myself that the slopes are there, and the sides are similar and have the same tilt 🙄. Won't write down the comment made by my wife, . The small slats in the front are temporarily distance keepers. Regards, Harm
  3. Hello Mike, Hardinge collets = top quality equipment. Congratulations with the shaper! Shapers are a nice and useful addition to the shop tools. I have one and use it often, they are more versatile than most people think. Regards, Harm
  4. Hello Al, Nicely written! The quarter round is some kind of pine, I would rather preferred ash. But this is what I only could buy in a small quantity. Regards, Harm
  5. Hello Al, Next: front seat with its curved backside, dash board and the "slope nosed" hood. The tonneau with the rear door will be last, I must sort out several design issues.... The tonneau is not identical to Cadillac or Ford. (To be honest, the Cleveland body looks like a Cadillac or Ford body, but differs on most dimensions). From the front seat on, the Cleveland body is totally different. So the tonneau presents me with some headache. Regards, Harm
  6. Hello Al, That is a very nice made box! I guess the ignition box for the two cylinder Cleveland, is mounted on the dash board. For the one cylinder car, it is mounted near the engine, with the switch mounted on a small strip of sheet metal under the passenger side of the front seat, rather primitive and not very convenient. I think that the 2 cylinder car is a much more sophisticated (modern) car than the one cylinder car. This is something I must sort out. Regards, Harm
  7. Yesterday evening Anna and I started gluing the body parts. Work progressed well, it took us just 3 hours to complete the task. One has to work fast, as the glue sets after 15 minutes. This afternoon I sanded the whole body and where applicable routed the edges. Also made the under frame for the front seat. What I nearly forgot: putting small wooden pieces (blocks) under the body frame beams. They will hold the body 5/16" above the steel chassis rails. So this is done to prevent moisture becoming trapped between the steel chassis rails and the body frame beams. Below some pictures. Regards, Harm
  8. Hello Al, Company left early in the afternoon, the weather forecast warned for thick fog, and right they where. So yesterday evening, Anna and I started gluing the body parts. Work progressed well, it took us just 3 hours to complete the task. One has to work fast, as the glue sets after 15 minutes. Regarding the ignition system, I really don't know. I have the timer, but not much else. I have no coil and no switch, I guess there must also be a battery box for 6 standard cells? Regards, Harm
  9. Hello Mike, I read all the pages of your blog. Mike, you show exceptional craftsmanship. I like this kind of restoring a car, performing all the work yourself , and learning a lot during the process, most satisfying. Reading about the engine, it seems to me as very compact, but rather a complicated and well designed engine. I am anxious to see the first start of the restored engine, keep my fingers crossed. A question: are the crankshaft bearings made of bronze with a Babbitt lining, or just bearing bronze without Babbitt lining? Regards, Harm
  10. Hello gentlemen, Sorry to disappoint you, no gluing today. Got unexpected visitors, nice, so my planning came to nothing. Well Monday I will start again. Have a nice weekend, Harm
  11. Hello Luv2Wrench, I fully agree with you. A kind of Dykem blue usable for wood would be very welcome. I too have problems with the small lines, to be honest I can't hardly see them, so I use a very small pencil line. The problem with this is I have to remember on which side of the line I must saw or mill. Regards, Harm
  12. Today was a productive day, I started at 7 o'clock. First, inserted the timber at the rear side of the front seat and also fitted the quarter hollow. Took some time to get it right. Further more I made a lot of small adjustments and sawed both side boards. The whole affair took the whole day to finish. Both sides are now less than 1/16" equal to each other, I am happy with the results 😊. For my wood work I use the same calipers as for the metal work, some friends thinks its way over the top.... I don't think so, to get the parts dimensional correct, you have to work with tight tolerances. Question to you all, what are your thoughts about this? Tomorrow its gluing time, all the joints and side panels will be glued, and were needed, screwed together. Regards, Harm Detail of inner left side Detail picture with the quarter hollow Inside view, right side. Beam for the holding the floor boards is clearly visible. Front view Side view, right side Left side of the body
  13. Hello Alan, The tanks are not original. I made them several years ago. The material I used is 18 gauge brass sheet. The tank are build by fabricating two sides left and right with 1/2" flanges. I made the flanges 1/2" by using a hard wood pattern to work the brass on. After that I folded the middle piece and rolled the round part on a slip roller machine, I used one long piece of brass. I used a 40" 3 in 1 cheap metal working machine. This machine its a bit flexible, but good enough for my needs. After test fitting I soldered the sides on the middle piece The outlet parts I turned from brass stock with 1/4" pipe threat in it. See pictures. After the soldering both tanks where water tight, no leaks. Regards, Harm Petrol tank Petrol tank bottom view Water tank side view Water tank three quarter view Water tank bottom view
  14. Hello Alan, Thanks, nice house you have, I like the architectural style. The weather, mmm, looks to me as one of those "stay in bed with a hot chocolate and good book" days..... Is the snowfall earlier than normal? Tomorrow, I expect to show some visible progress. Regards, Harm
  15. Hello Alan, This evening (just a few minutes ago, local time, its 17:15 hr) I received the quarter round molding. Today I spend with cleaning the shop and started with the lay-out of the side panels. Furthermore I made patterns for the side panels of the hood (scuttle) and patterns for the front seat. Tomorrow, I start the gluing of the under body and fitting the side, front and rear panels. Regards, Harm To all readers: Anna and I wish you a very happy Thanksgiving.