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Sloth

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  • Birthday 01/21/1953

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  1. Hello, Last Friday I got an email message from the foundry, that the brake drums were ready to collect πŸ˜„. So this morning Anna and I went to the foundry to collect them. I praised them for being 2 weeks earlier than planned. I am happy with the quality of the drums. Some machine work is needed, but overall they look good. Each of them weighing slightly more than 4.5 Lbs (2 kg). Brake drum pair for the axle bar. Brake drums, to be fitted on the axle bar. Brake drum pair for the sleeve axle. Brake drums to be fitted on the sleeve axle. It might be clear that for the next weeks some machining must be done. I am looking forward to it, thisr item can be removed from my Cleveland to do list. @Terry, the foundry people were impressed by the accuracy of the mold, it caused them no problems at all. Regards, Harm
  2. Hello, Last weeks, Anna an I did lot of sanding and painting. We are half way now, but yesterday it started raining so we postponed the remainder of the work until the weather improves. Today I received the order confirmation of the brake drum castings, week 21 they will be ready. Last week I received the head gaskets for the Cleveland engine. I am very happy with the quality, they fit perfect. The round gasket is the actual head gasket, for the ignition chamber the elongated one is needed. Last weeks I did a lot of designing and drawing. I need brake bell cranks and some levers for the brake system. The lever which came with the car when I bought it, are late Ford model T levers, not suitable for the Cleveland and to far gone to use them anyhow. So I looked at a 1903 Cadillac of a friend and took some measurements. Furthermore I took some detail pictures of the 1903 Mitchell when we were in London in 2019. Brake bell cranks. Brake system levers. I asked the foundry what it would cost to have them cast, price wise a bit steep, I can live with that, but delivery date not. As I mentioned before, they are very busy, they told me "maybe end of this year". I planned to make the molds from wood, simple and fast. But, as I wanted to have the chassis ready before Christmas this year, this was not going well. After some nights sleep, I decided to have them cut from steel plate and turn and mill, decent levers and bell cranks. That means I have to make decent drawings (DXF files). After checking continuous contours etc., I had the DXF files online converted to STL files, then sliced to G-code for the printer. I printed them with the 3D printer, red on the pictures. After everything was OK, I send the DXF files to the company who did the water cutting of the steel plate. When you do all the file handling yourself, and send the correct files to this company, you only pay for the steel and the cutting time. When the company does the all the handling, and make the necessary corrections, it will cost you an 'arm and a leg'. They advertise with this possibility to reduce cost and delivery time greatly for amateurs. Tomorrow, Anna and I will get our first vaccine jab (the second will be administered the 6th of June) . I must say we both looking forward to it. So maybe the second half of this year we can go, more or less, back to some kind of normal.... This afternoon we received an invitation, for a 3 day rally, at the first weekend in September. 😊 Would be our first brass car outing in 1.5 year. Regards, Harm
  3. Hello, Last week I sanded, primed and painted the brake molds. I did this to get rid of the small printing lines, so they look really nice now. This afternoon I went off to the foundry. They told me they are very busy, so I am happy they would do it as a side job. I was a bit shocked by the quote they gave me, but as these are essential parts I decided to keep my mouth shut, and asked them to go ahead. Delivery time is about 4 weeks, which I do consider as not too bad. Experiences with another foundry in the past, left me waiting for 4 months for some simple castings. That foundry does not exist anymore, which is unfortunate, as they delivered a really good quality. As the weather is improving, Anna and I have to do some house painting, not really my favorite job . Furthermore, some time ago the motor of the Bridgeport head of my Franken mill shorted. I guess there is something wrong with the field coils, I will take care of it tomorrow. Primed and painted Both brake molds ready for the foundry. Blobs of paint to be removed before I go to the foundry 😏. Regards, Harm
  4. Hello, During the last four weeks, Anna and I spend a lot of time with gardening. Also, I build a new green house for Anna (Chinese made kit ). The last green house was a flimsy affair, it was cheap but served its purpose well. So a new, and more sturdy one was ordered. Took me several days to assemble it. Lets say that the assembly manual left a lot to guess about. Original manual was translated from Chinese in to the French language, from there to English and German, and all four where used to come up with a Dutch translation (well, some kind of Dutch 🀣). Cleveland activities: First of all, I would kindly thank Terry Harper very much for the very nice 3D drawings and STL files, of the brake drums! They are of an outstanding quality and detail. I printed the drums on my 3D printer and they came out perfect. I used a filler/primer, this to get rid of the printing pattern. After that, and after some sanding, I will paint them with 2K paint, and hope, by the beginning of next week deliver them to the foundry to have them cast in grey iron. Brake drums, two different axle diameters. Will need two of each. My 3D printer, next investment will be an enclosure for it. Printing an brake drum, using PLA. As soon as the drums are painted in glossy yellow, I will publish better pictures. Furthermore, I completed the drawings of the head gaskets and ordered them at "Gasketstogo" in Thailand. Also tried to order piston rings at "Otto engine". I did send two emails, each one a month apart, but I did not get any reaction. Tried to call, but the phone was not answered. So I give up and will look for a different supplier. Also I am still working on a drawing for the brake bell crank and some small levers, hope to complete it coming weekend. Regards, Harm
  5. Hello, Today, at last, I completed the drawing of the simplest head gasket of the Cleveland engine. Next in line is the more complex head gasket. The Cleveland has two head gaskets, one for the inlet and exhaust "chamber", and one for the head to the cylinder. I am sorry for the quality of the picture, during conversion from DWG to PDF to JPG, it got blurry. I need to investigate to improve that process. To day I started early, 07:00 hr and managed to get the Ford model A engine running, but oh boy is that engine tight. So after running the engine for 30 minutes at low RPM, I called it a (very short) day. No overheating occurred nor worrying sounds from the bearing department. The remaining part of the day I spend learning QCad. Regards, Harm
  6. Hello Terry, Thank you very much for offering your expertise! I am impressed by the quality of the drawing and molds, they look wonderful. To be honest, one of the many problems with the Cleveland, are the brake drums. This type of drums, I only saw these fitted on a 1903 Mitchell. They did not came with the Cleveland when I bought it. I postponed the manufacturing of them, hoped I would find them some day. But after looking for them during 20 odd years I gave up. So I could make molds of wood (the proven but old fashioned way), instead I am thinking about drawing them in 3D. But, as I am struggling to master a 2D drawing program, 3D is way out of reach for me. Maybe it is an interesting small project for students? I own a 3D printer (and know how to use it πŸ˜‰), printing could be a bit slow, but till now Anna and I printed a lot of parts (ThingiVerse). So printing would not be the problem, but 3D drawing 😰😰. Below are pictures and description of the drums (left and right), copied from a Hayden Eames catalog of 1902. Terry, please let me know if this is something for students to take on. If not, no problem. Regards, Harm
  7. Hello Mike, At my former job, my department used AutoCad (2D) for years. A few engineers where quite good with it. But some years ago, we needed to draw our designs more and more 3D. So we changed to Fusion 360.... well, that took quite a while, courses and effort, before they mastered it. But, I must say, the results where marvelous. A few years ago I gave it a try, and very soon lost the battle πŸ˜’. As I need drawings for the head gaskets and drawings for bell-cranks (to have them water or plasma cut), I think 2D is OK for the near future. Later (when mastering 3D) I hope to make 3D molds for the bell cranks and have them properly cast at the iron foundry. Regards, Harm
  8. Hello, I got a bit distracted by finishing the rebuild of the Ford model A engine. Took a lot more time and effort than I previously anticipated. For example, the carburetor: I am fond of Tillotson carburetors for the Ford, always driven them with the Tillotson model X and have good experiences with them. Sold my last one to a friend (should not have done that...) As they are a bit rare in the Netherlands, I ordered a "rebuild" one on Ebay. Big mistake, the carburetor looked good (at first glance) but when put on the engine, it leaked petrol like a sieve. Well, disassembled the carb, no gaskets what so ever, main jet broken and so on. Further more, a lot of warping of the upper part. Long story short, I rebuild it, milled out the warping so the upper part fits nicely on the lower body. Removed the stuck main jet part., and so on. O well, just the usual mishaps when restoring an old car. Crankshaft: original and never polished, showed some slight warping of the flywheel flange, so out with it. And after careful measuring the crankshaft between the centers in the lathe I observed a slight bend at the second main bearing. Took me one day to correct it, not difficult, but putting it under the hydraulic press, and taking it at the lathe again, becomes (after a number of this movements) quite heavy. But after a very light skimming of the flywheel flange, the crankshaft is perfect now with a minimal flywheel wobble (< 0.001"). I while ago, I started with learning to use a simple 2D CAD drawing tool for engineers. I bought QCad, the reason is simple, first I tried a free program, but that proved unstable, my frustration and blood pressure ran quite high 🀬. So I looked for another simple (relatively that is) but stable program. After some evenings visiting expert sites and user groups, I have chosen QCad. It got good reviews, is stable and has a very good user manual with a lot of examples and exercises. Most evenings I am busy with self education, because due to Corona, there are no vocational courses available. This old dog is trying to learn new tricks...πŸ˜‰. My ultimate goal is learning 3D-CAD as used by engineers, I tried a free program, but that was a bit to much (very complicated -non intuitive- user interface). So first I have to start with 2D-CAD, just to get the hang of it. I must say I am happy with my progress so far 😊. First serious drawing will be the head gaskets for the Cleveland engine. The Cleveland got -unfortunately- a bit to the background. First thing to do is line boring the main bearings, no reason to postpone that chore any longer. Regards, Harm
  9. Hello, Today I spend a lot of time, taking measurements of the position of the con rod in relation to the sump. Well, the idea of yesterday of making some kind of oil catcher will not work. I was mistaken by the position of the drip oiler on the engine, it drips on the wrong side of the con rod. Redirecting the oil, by some kind tubing seems not possible, there is not enough room into the crankcase for it. I turned the con rod up side down, oil hole to the bottom of the engine. Well, the distance between the oil hole and the sump is just 1 3/8". The con rod also turns into the right direction (clockwise). If I make a small tube with a scoop on the end, with just a 1/8" clearance between the scoop and the sump, it scopes up the oil in the sump, problem solved..... I hope. Regards, Harm
  10. Hello Mark, Looks nice and shiny, well the inclusion, I would be "creative" with the oil groovesπŸ˜€, I would use it as is. Keeping in mind that the bearing is used for an accessory shaft. I guess that the load is not an impact load as with a crankshaft or con rods. If used for a crankshaft or con rods, I would re-pour it, but not for this application. Regards, Harm
  11. Hello Terry, I think that is a real possibility, as there is an oiler just above the rotational returning point of the con rod. So if I keep the hole up (as Cadillac did) and I make some kind of "oil catcher "and screw that into the hole, oil supply is guaranteed. Well, tomorrow I will take some measurements, to proof that this will work as described. One of the pictures I got from Roger Weiss shows an Oiler on top of the engine. Regards, Harm
  12. Hello Al, Thanks, but I really have no idea. Maybe they screwed in some kind of oil scoop? I still have to measure the clearance between the lowest point of the crankshaft and the sump. Regards, Harm
  13. Today, after searching the web, I found a nice detailed picture of a Cadillac con rod. It seems to answer my question about the threaded hole in the Cleveland con rod. To me it looked like an oil hole. See picture below, red arrow point to the oil hole. Gentleman, do I assume this right, that it is an oil hole? Picture copied from a 1903 "Instruction Book for the Cadillac Automobile" Regarding the counterweights, I could not find another crankshaft from that period, with this bolted on counter weights. Regards, Harm
  14. Hello sir, That is a nice set of molds you have made. Keeping the mold, the shell and the Babbitt at temperature is indeed very important. I use a fairly large cast iron ladle (drawback: its heavy), this keeps the temperature of the Babbitt long enough stable for pouring. When I did my first pour (longer ago than I want to remember 😁), it really looked terrible, but after a while I got the hang of it. I just kept on trying. The car still runs on that Babbitt bearings. Good luck with your second pour. Regards, Harm
  15. This morning I took a picture of the hole in the con rod diameter about 5/16", it has a very fine thread in it. Did not figure out yet what kind of thread it is. As you can see, the connecting rod sides are machined, but left with a really very rough finish. Threaded hole in connecting rod. (Somehow I have the idea that the hole was later machined there.) Here are all the counterweights parts. Counterweights weighing 4.33 Lbs each. Assembled counterweights with the crankshaft. Side view of the assembled counterweights. The U bolts seemed to have been repaired several times (at the thread-ends), so I will make new ones. The thread on the U bolts is 5/16 BSW, I consider that a bit odd, but all the threads on the Cleveland engine are BSW or BSF, the same applies for the gearbox. I was under the impression that at that time (1902/1903) standardization to UNF and UNC was already done. Further as it is still bitter cold in- en outside the shop, I came to nothing useful. Regards, Harm
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