27donb

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27donb last won the day on February 10

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  1. Just makes me wonder with some of the high end restorations, where everything seems so original and correct, but they got the box color wrong. Is that a 24 or 25 steering box in your picture? My 27 54CC engine had original green paint on the rear breather can. In a picture I took before disassembly, it showed green but the backside against the engine was bare metal, with no signs of black. Yet, the BCA manual states all sheet metal should be black. I stayed with a green breather when I repainted my engine.
  2. That's one of the few 24's I've seen with a green steering box, most seem to be black, so I did mine black. Even though it's a 24-55, I've been using this one as a general model as to how details should be because the restoration is so beautiful and complete. Here is another 24-45, but the water tube looks too low in the back. Could be an illusion.
  3. Definitely a driver as the car has been its whole life, but I will still raise the hood at car shows and cruise nights. The car has lost many underhood details that I am trying to bring back, but I never expect to win anything at a show.
  4. If I could decide on plating (or stainless) vs painting, and find someone who could fabricate one, the material would affect the price and I could paint it myself to save money. The stainless one does look great though.
  5. It's called planning ahead, and that is an old picture but the only one I had to show the water tube I have. Here is a more recent picture, but doesn't show the water tube. Would you feel better about offering an opinion on plating vs painting now? Or are there other things you see that I should fix first, and leave the water tube till last?
  6. My 24-45 needs a new water tube. The one I have is home made and cobbled together, it works, but doesn't display well. To QUOTE from the BCA judging manual (my copy is from 2005, can't imagine it has changed in this detail): "Engine sheet metal parts from 1922-1935 were painted Black, including valve cover, spark plug cover, hot water return tube and fan. Push rod and water jacket covers were painted engine color, as were the pans. Pre-1926, the combination starter-generator was painted engine Olive Drab. Starting in 1926, the separate two-unit starter and generator were painted Black." If the water tube should be black, why is it so many pictures of 24 Buicks have either a nickel plated or stainless water tube? Was it originally plated for 1924? What is considered correct, black painted or plated (or stainless)? Some reproductions I have seen, the outlet angle toward the radiator inlet is off, resulting in a crooked top radiator hose. Any suggestions for who is making a good accurate water tube?
  7. Pre 1924 I believe, the rusty knob is for the dash light. Can you post pictures of the backs?
  8. It is my opinion as I've stated before, that sedans would not have a key lock ignition lighting switch, but instead door locks for security. An open touring or Roadster would have the key lock ignition lighting switch, because open cars did not have locking doors or roll up windows. At least that makes sense to me, my touring cars have the keyed switch, my convertible coupe does not, no way of telling if the switches are original or not. All 3 cars have the transmission lock. So in my opinion, your sedan has the correct non locking switch. I think the picture of the switch with the 24-27 type switch levers, but the positions are labeled, is pre 1924 or possibly 1924 4 cylinder.
  9. Would thin gear teeth cause this or frozen water pump?
  10. These statements sum up my experience as well. There are still some speedometers out there, check Ebay. To find one working is a crap shoot at best, although the majority of pot metal is junk, for some reason some parts survive. After spending time driving the head on a lathe and adjusting the mph drum, I decided it was the best it would be, and it still reads about 4 mph slow. Luckily with GPS and a speedometer phone app, I don't get stopped for speeding in the old Buick!
  11. The updraft tube in the heat riser is a restriction, of a specific size. Even with both sides of the heat riser blocked off from exhaust flow, there is still the chamber around the updraft tube. If the updraft tube has a hole, the updraft stream to the cylinders is now exposed not only to the tube restriction but also to the chamber in the heat riser around the tube. Now the updraft tube restriction is increased, perhaps doubled, due to the hole in the updraft tube. The area of the updraft tube, and the area of the heat riser chamber around the tube, are joined by the hole in the tube, at least as far as how the carb and engine react. Wouldn't that have an affect on how the carb works, and how the engine runs?
  12. Think of it this way, if it helps. By blocking both sides of the exhaust exposed to the riser, and replacing the riser tube, it will last forever and never have to be addressed again!