27donb

It has been said, you can judge your progress by the size of your scrap pile. Using that measure, apparently I am making incredible progress. Luckily in this case of the tires, tubes and rim situation, 'only' a redo of all the labor is required.

🙂

https://vintageandclassicreproductions.com/product_brands/1927-buick/ Online catalog screen captures:

My 1927 Master handles. Fisher body. Handles are reproduction. Standard may be totally different! I made a silly little tool from a piece of angle iron, that works well enough to unscrew the handles when I need them removed. Detail of original handles, survivors that didn't crack. The window winder fits, but doesn't match the door handle.

Here is a picture of spare 1927 Master clutch parts I have, showing the first disk into the cage carrying the mounting studs, and the rivets are exposed and don't appear rubbed on the flywheel at all.

I zoomed in on the picture, to hopefully clarify.

Good to hear the clutch is in the flywheel. Sorry I cannot speak to the rivets on the last plate, when I did mine I didn't notice or take clutch plate pictures to share. This doesn't matter now that your clutch is in the flywheel, but when I compressed my clutch in the press as you did, I kept it compressed by putting 3 small screws in the holes in the alignment pins. This made it easier to line up the clutch plate teeth in the flywheel as everything was loose. Then I used 3 long studs to guide the transmission back into place. When the clutch linkage was reconnected, I depressed the clutch with the pedal and carefully removed the 3 small screws with a magnet.

Looks great! "Before and After"

Happy New Year to you and your family, and to everyone! Here's to an even better year than the last!

Rod, can you post a picture or two of what you have, that you are looking for?

Thank you for the replies, pictures, and suggestions. I think I will go with black wedges. The contrast to the color of the wheel and the silver rim looks great to me.

What color should the wheel wedges and nuts be painted? The "optional" cadmium plated rims were silver in color (?) but in photos like this 25-55, the wedges appear dark (black?), not silver matching the rims. Ok my 24-45, I am planning to go with silver painted rims instead of black. Originally, were the wedges and nuts painted to: - Match the rim color - Match the wheel paint color (in my case the body and wheels will be blue, should be originally all black I know) - or should they be black (so that would be silver rim, black wedges and nuts, and blue wheel fellow and spokes). Many restored cars seem to have silver wedges and nuts matching a silver rim (like my 27-25 which shouldn't even have silver rims).

That is a great setup. Perfect lighting and plenty of room to work, and clean! Looking forward to seeing your progress on the car. You (along with many others here) are a tremendous motivation for me to do more on my car.

So no worries about judging, and a background in airline maintenance...Decision made on the hardware question! I also had a career in the airline industry, in the maintenance of components, but my tenure was only 35 years. Over that period of time repairing and overhauling components, some that were safety of flight, whenever there was a debate over hardware and it's condition, I would always say "we are working on aircraft parts, not toasters" (no offense to anyone who works on toasters). The motto became "when in doubt, throw it out". My point being, there ARE different standards of quality. A toaster is not an aircraft, neither is an automobile. Buick's design and standards, even if they pale in comparisons to todays standards, have lasted for 100+ years in many cases. It's your car, if you chose to (re)build it to a higher, even aircraft high, standard, that is your choice! Make it yours! Have you posted any pictures of your car / project? I would love to see your 24-45.

What is your goal for the end result of your restoration? To have a car that will be as authentic as possible in order to win car show awards? (will a judge be snooping around underneath, looking for non original hardware?) To have a car that is a "driver"? To have a car that is visually 100% correct from the top (shiny) side, but to be extremely mechanically sound? Perhaps, a mix of several of those... With my own 24-45 (ongoing) project, I am constantly surprised at how many times I discover modern hardware has already replaced original hardware on my car in so many places. The previous owner had also replaced almost every visible slotted screw with Phillips head screws. Many times I find new headed bolts on the underside somewhere, and I intend to leave those as I don't have a supply of original hardware for which to exchange it with and for the most part they cannot be seen without crawling around under there. However, my car will never win a car show award, and that is not my goal. When possible, and when the hardware will be visible, I try to locate old hardware, or even make something new, look old. Like ungraded bolts, or even remove the grading marks. I use old washers when I can, especially if it can be seen when on display. Some places sell old type hardware, like high head bolts. That proposition, can be expensive. In my case, the previous owner added tube shocks to the rear axle with brackets, so the spring pivot and clamp arrangement is also missing it's bolts. When I remove it all I will probably replace them with modern bolts, and paint them black. Your original clamp bolts are slightly stretched, but not broken. They lasted 99 years, they might last another 99. If you are concerned about the strength of the suspension hardware, I would go with modern replacements. Just my long winded, 2 cents opinion...

I don't know how the 1916 is different, but my understanding of how the starter generator works is the motoring is required to turn the starter gear, so that it will engage in the reduction gears and the flywheel. Once the engine is running, disconnecting the ignition only, the generator will still produce power to the system, unless the ignition and motoring terminals are separated (two separate connections, even though both are connected to the battery source). In theory, if they are not separated, the generator will back feed to the ignition wire, keeping the coil powered, and the engine will not turn off. Theoretically. I have never experienced it, but it makes sense. Maybe that's why a relay was used, to give good strong motoring of the S/G for startup, and disconnect that circuit from the coil circuit so the above scenario won't occur and the engine will indeed turn off when the switch is moved to off.

You can definitely bounce a quarter off of that top, it's so tight! Beautiful job!

It's my selfie! 😂 McMaster carr:

Perhaps post pictures of what you have / need?

That is one big fender and hood... like glass!

I am not the expert, but in my mind oil pressure is controlled by the relief spring and plunger. Typically, the old relief spring breaks and the oil pressure is reduced, or fluctuates indicating a problem. An increase in oil pressure, might be caused by a sticky relief valve plunger? Meaning, if the plunger is stuck and won't move the pressure would build until it finally does. Also I would suggest verifying the actual reading with another gauge before diving deeper, maybe the solution is something more simple.

Guest, can you post pics of what you have so we know what you are starting with?

Bob's Automobilia has the golf bag door lock, but it's currently out of stock. I got one for my 27-54CC and was very happy with it. I don't know if the locks vary from standard to master series. I don't believe t handled locks were used originally for the golf bag door for 1927. Perhaps give them a call to see if they are getting more.

It's just hard to see how your setup works. Is there a flat surface that would line up with the (missing) seal on your spin in filter? This is my understanding of how it should work. These are the other types of bath filters I have for my current setup on the 27-25. It looks to be a messy setup when changing the filter (haven't actually changed it yet).