27donb

Laws in different states vary I'm sure, but I was told when a car is completely restored and refurbished, it is acceptable for a restoration shop to set the speedometer to zero again, because the car is essentially new again.

Great (mileage) moment to capture! Happy Anniversary! ☺️

1928 may be different, but for 1927 the top of the gauges has a shroud to direct the dash Guage lighting, and at the bottom there are just simple brackets to hold the gauges in place. Again for 1927, the starter pedal return springs on my cars in the housing on top of the transmission was rusted and broken, so I replaced the original spring with a stainless steel spring from McMaster Carr to prevent a repeat failure, since the spring does not show.

It's very inspiring to see progress being made. Beautiful outside pictures Hugh!

We're the Buick engineers trying to regulate flow with those different vane designs, as in too much flow and the coolant doesn't have time to remove the engine heat, and too little flow and the engine runs hot?

So if the body breaks away from the frame, I'm going for a ride without the chassis. I agree with driving carefully, heavily defensive, and assuming other drivers don't understand old cars at all, and no seat belts in my old cars. In any event, I hope everyone is safe and all accidents are avoided!

I've done 1 local shop, and 2 kits. Local shop is difficult when the car isn't running or registered and there is no trailer available.

Try Waldron Exhaust http://waldronexhaust.com/cart/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=61_31_98

Beautiful work Gary! Your car is so awesome, I did not want to criticize, but I'm glad you moved the cut off master switch and hid it. The engine compartment seemed perfect and the switch detracted from it, in my opinion. And as you said, popping the hood to flip the switch every time can be a drag. I added a similar electric pump to my garden tractor because in the winter when I use it to clear snow after sitting for weeks at a time, the carb was dry. I found that fuel would not flow freely through the pump, but I didn't try to push it through the original vacuum pulse pump either and then shut off the electric pump once the tractor started. I just bypassed the pulse pump. Now your experience makes me wonder if I could use it just to prime the pump and carb, then shut it off and see if the pulse pump will continue to draw through the electric non running pump. I may try that. My old Buicks have strictly electric pumps right to the carb and are used 100% of the time. The pump fills the carb bowl in about 5 seconds, then I switch off the pump to prevent flooding and switch back on once started. I wonder if yours takes longer to fill because you are pushing through your original fuel pump as well...? I'm familiar with the change in pump sound when the priming is complete. Your wiring skills are a match to your other restoration skills. These updates are very motivational! Thank you as always for sharing! What is your next project that we can all look forward to following along with?

A volt meter, directly on the battery, can reveal a lot. Battery voltage before starting, at idle, at high idle, with lights on, and compare to what the dash gauge indicates.

I'm not familiar with your vintage of Buick, I see one line on either side of zero, I assume with a generator max on the gauge is 20 amps in either direction? My 27 generator is always putting out something even at low idle, but due to the ignition and electric fuel pump, it can be a discharge of a few amps. At fast idle or over the road with a hot generator, I'm charging about 9 amps. Cold generator, over 15 amps. Under any condition, my amp gauge is never maxed out either charge or discharge. It looks like your gauge is close to pinned on the discharge side. Is the YouTube video with the new NOS gauge, or with the old one that doesn't zero out?

Yes, fill to edge of filler hole.

I'm happy the simplest solution was successful!

First of all, I sincerely wish the best of luck to the simplest and easiest solution to remedy the stuck clutch. That being said, those methods did not work for my 27 clutch when it stuck. The clutch on my 24 is somewhat "out it the open" and can be accessed somewhat through the access cover. I can see the possibility of playing with the clutch plates and trying to loosen them up in the car. By 1927, Buick had improved the clutch design to be stronger, and enclosed the clutch plates inside the flywheel. No such access is possible when assembled. I don't know if 29 is the same. My 24 spent 40 + years in an un-insulated detached garage, being exposed to freezing in winter and summer heat and humidity, and never a clutch problem. My 27 spent the same amount of time in an underneath the house garage partially heated in the winter by a basement furnace (in other words, never exposed to freezing, very dry) and currently is in an insulated unheated garage with a dehumidifier. That is the clutch that stuck, with no warning. I tried the driving around with the clutch pedal down, on and off the gas, but I drew the line at putting the car against a tree and popping the clutch (one suggestion I had read somewhere). I committed to disassemble. Step 1 - remove rear axle Step 2 - Remove transmission Step 3 - remove clutch (notice how contaminated it is) I freed the clutch by compressing in a hydraulic press, then disassembling and cleaning. All parts were in spec, so I just reassembled and only replaced the throw out and pilot bearings. Good luck, keep us updated as to how it goes!

Yes I have searched ebay also, and the ones on there are buy it now, but not really selling, you know what I mean? In other words, if that was a good price, someone would have purchased it. It just sits there, with that buy it now price, with seemingly no one willing to pay it. I like auctions, that determines a more accurate market price, it shows what people are willing to pay, today. I'll probably hold unto them and put them on this winter at auction and see what they go for. Thanks to all that replied!

These are NOS, but likely not unique enough for a collection. I have a box full. Going to the scrap yard tomorrow, they may end up there.

So helpful, as always. A simple "throw them away" might be more helpful, if that's a more educated opinion than mine. I just don't know.

I'm not the best searcher, or researcher, so does anyone know what these fit, or have a good resource I could use to find out what they fit? Globe full spark plug 27-18mm

UPDATE: Roger McGinnis has delivered a new water tube to me for my 24-45, which he fabricated from scratch, in copper. It looks exactly as the original pattern lent to me and Roger by a friend. The work is excellent, and I appreciate all his time and effort and skill in producing this part, that I could not make, for my car. It dropped down onto the cylinder head studs perfectly. Next stop, plating! (as time and funds allow)

Bob's has these: https://bobsautomobilia.com/brakes/brake-arm-boot-bb-26/ https://bobsautomobilia.com/brakes/brake-arm-boot-.-bb-24/ There are also band and wire clamps available, if yours aren't reusable.

Try printing this one (same image, using the "negative affect", black becomes white and white becomes black):

Wow! Do mine next!

Nice work! In my opinion you should avoid Philips head screws. I know they won't show, but you could just as easily use new slotted head screws to be more authentic and if you ever did pull up the floors the hardware would appear more correct to others. Just my opinion!

Please more pictures!