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rustyjazz1938

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  1. @Sunnyjay There are a few topics in the Buick Pre-War forum related to the motor/generator unit on the early Buick (pre 1925) cars. Perhaps these might at least provide some other places to look as you troubleshoot: Good luck! Rusty
  2. Hello All, I posted in the Studebaker, Erskine, Rockne forum, but I thought I would post here as well to see if there might be more luck. I am looking for king pins for my 1914 Studebaker. I know it is a long shot, but Studebaker used part number 10892 - Steering Knuckle Bolt, through 1918, so perhaps, just perhaps, there might be a slight chance of someone having a set? Thanks for reading, Rusty Berg
  3. Hi @edinmass, It definitely is a long shot, but with the wealth of knowledge and experience on this forum, it can't hurt to ask. As to making new pins, I'm an engineer by trade (please don't hold it against me... 😁), So I am working up a drawing right now, and I do have a lathe in my shop that I can start roughing the pin with, although the case hardening and final grinding would have to be done by someone else as I don't have the equipment. Luckily being in SE Michigan affords me many opportunities when it comes finding shops that can do the work. All that
  4. Hello All, I've been making progress on getting my `14 SC-4 back up and running again, moving through refreshing and cleaning about 100 plus years of dirt and grime away. As I was working on the front axle, I noticed the spindles had much more play than acceptable, so I am setting up to make new bushings for them. However, as I disassembled the parts and removed what I call the king pins (Studebaker called them Steering Knuckle Bolts, Part Number 10892), I noticed that the hardened bushing surfaces are in rough shape from years of crunchy grease not providing much lubri
  5. Hi @BobinVirginia I don't think I want to risk the needle scaler given how thing the casting is on the one side, that being said the bleach flash rust process might be a nice touch to hide the fix, especially given the rest of the engine condition. It also helps that this butts up against the fire wall of the car, so its visibility will be limited. Hi @Bloo As best as I can tell the pipe is a slip fit into the sleeve. It's a very tight slip fit, and I am assuming it carbons up a bit as a means of providing extra sealing capability like some Diesel engine sli
  6. Hi Scott, I guess I can't use that excuse anymore with the local law enforcement officers when I get zinged. 😃 I have a backup with the king pins just in case... ðŸĪŠ Thanks for reading, Rusty Berg
  7. Hi Jim, You might get a quicker answer posting this in the Buick Pre-war Technical forum. I know there are a bunch of guys there with 1923 Buicks who will be able to answer you question (unfortunately I have a 1927 and can't really help). Good luck, Thanks for reading, Rusty Berg
  8. Hello All, As I've been going through the refresh on my 1914 SC-4, there has always been a bit of a major issue with the engine that has always given me fits since I bought the car: As you can see, besides the impressive amount of crud that was built up on the engine over the years *yuck*, the exhaust manifold flange had crack sometime in the long history of the car. From the looks of it, the crack was very old, I did not have the missing piece, and it looks like it could have been due to a very thin spot in the casting itself, which can be seen in the side
  9. Hello Bomarkham, I'm not certain of the availability of parts for the 1916. On my 1914 the parts for the generator were non-existant (Wagner EM107 if I recall correctly). If you have the original failed parts your best bet would probably be to get them rewound. I have had good luck with: http://www.aerrebuild.com/ Jason redid my generator and did a great job with it. Best of luck, Thanks for reading, Rusty Berg
  10. Hi Pat (Studenut1915) Thanks to your guidance, I was able to get the clutch basket off! You're right that it is a very tight fit to get the pin out, but with a bit of fighting and swearing (the best lubricant if you will...) it slipped out. I'm not certain what thickness of leather is in there, but I will definitely take your advice into mind. Also, luckily for me, the u-joint bushings and trunnions for my driveshaft are in great shape, but I'll keep it mind that the u-joint can be replaced with a modern equivalent. Thanks again, Rusty
  11. Hello All, I'm going through and refreshing my engine a bit (cleaning years of crud off of it), and working on fixing the crack in the exhaust manifold that makes me feel extra groovy whenever I drive the car (love un-burned hydrocarbons 😁). As part of the process, since I have the engine out, I figured I'd reline the leather in the clutch. I have no idea of the age of the leather, but it is extremely hard and could use replacing. I'm working on removing the clutch basket, and I've hit a bit of a roadblock, and I am hopeful someone who has done this before c
  12. Perhaps another parallel to this topic, I recall reading an article in a magazine (perhaps Hemmings Classic Car?) about Ralph Teetor, who was part of Perfect Circle: https://www.automotivehalloffame.org/honoree/ralph-r-teetor/ I recall that his skill at engineering stemmed from the ability to use his other senses such as touch to find flaws in castings. Thanks for reading, Rusty Berg
  13. Hello mbstude, I'll be doing some work on my car in the future, so if you need more info about the float setup, I can get you pictures. As to electric lighting and starting, 1914 was the first year for the four cylinder cars to get the setup. I believe the six cylinder cars went electric in 1913. Also, 1914 was the year that all cars went to left hand drive. Good luck with your cars and happy motoring! Thanks for reading, Rusty Berg
  14. Hello Mbstude, I have a 1914 SC-4 (my engine is much dirtier than yours is though!) which I believe is the next model year of your car. I see many similarities to your motor in mine, other than mine has Wagner starting gear, and Remy ignition gear instead of the Splitdorf magneto setup. I think Bill hit the nail on the head. In my manual for the motor (attached a picture for reference), it says the reservoir normally holds 4 quarts, and the couple of times I have changed the oil, the indicator would float up at around 4 quarts. I put 5 quarts in one change and it reache
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