Gary W

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Gary W last won the day on January 3

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About Gary W

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  • Birthday 01/04/1963

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    1914 Ford Model "T" Touring
    1930 Ford Model "A" Dlx Coupe
    1930 Ford Model "A" Dlx Roadster
    1937 Buick Model "48" Sedan

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  1. Simply gorgeous. The quality and expertise of your restoration will set a new standard at Hershey. Truly a pleasure following your build. Congratulations. Did you fabricate the hood prop? I looks nice and sturdy. I'd like to see your plan on that. Not that you need it, but "GOOD LUCK" at Hershey!!!! Stunning. Gary
  2. Wednesday September 11, 2019: Oil Pump Replacement I now have 850 miles on the Buick, and she's running better everyday, but I've been constantly worried about the oil pressure. I've been following other threads and other discussions regarding the proper oil pressure, and I was never convinced my engine was getting the oil pressure Buick specified. I do tend to obsess over everything, but this turned out to be a good one. My car would immediately produce 38 psi at start up, cold oil. After only a five minute idle, it would fall to about 28 - 30 psi. At speed, she would maintain about 25 pounds, but Buick specifies 45 psi. But when it was hot, and sitting at a light, the actual oil pressure dropped to zero. Literally dropped down to nothing. This situation has been haunting me since day one, so I purchased another 1937 Buick oil pump from Dave Tachney and sent it to Egge for a rebuild. This morning I got the time to swap out my original pump with the rebuild, and the difference is already noticeable . I'd like to show how I did it step-by-step, as I get a lot of private messages and e-mails about this very subject. ALSO.... I have to thank Mr. Art Sommers for graciously allowing me use of his lift! The job took a little more than an hour to accomplish and that's because we were able to lift the car. Here goes: I disconnected my oil pressure dash gauge and replaced it with this gauge right on the block. This way I can be sure that my low readings were not simply a bad dash gauge. This photo is the car idling after a 20 mile drive on a fairly hot day. The oil pressure at idle when hot is ZERO. My dash gauge also showed zero, but I thought the dash gauge had to be off a bit. It wasn't. So, here is the step - by - step for anyone contemplating the job: On the lift, my buddy John (now 89 years old) talking with Art Sommers. 1. Remove the dipstick 2. Drain the oil 3. Remove the flywheel cover pan. 4. Remove the 9/16" bolts that hold the front stabilizer to the frame. Release the brackets to allow the bar a little movement. Leave it attached to the front end. 5. Remove all 32 pan bolts. A couple well placed taps on a screwdriver will release the pan. 6. Turn the flywheel so the crank journal up front is horizontal. 7. Jiggle pan down while pulling on the loosened stabilizer to get the clearance you need. 8. Remove two bolts to release the oil pump from the block. Hard to see in low-res photos, but there is a little very, very fine metal "dust" in the pan. (Those black chunks are gasket pieces that fell in on removal) So, I guess with new pistons, new rings and the first 850 miles, there was a little metal scrapings in the pan. 9. Scrape all gasket material from pan and block. 10. Clean interior of pan of all foreign material 11. With a hammer, flatten all "bulging" areas around the mounting bolt holes so the pan sits nice and flush on the block. 12. I used a small amount of permatex black to tack the new pan gasket to the pan so it wouldn't slide around on installation. 13. Pour oil into the new-rebuilt oil pump to fill it and "prime" it. You can feel the resistance of the gears when it fills with oil. 14. Install the oil pump gasket and look up at the position of the slot in the distributor shaft that the oil pump mates to. 15. Line up the slot, groove and bolt the pump in. Here, I turned the flywheel by hand and watched the oil pump shaft turn to confirm she was seated properly. 16. Again, with the crankshaft horizontal up front, and the new gasket lined up, seat the oil pan and begin installing 32 pan bolts. (Your block is scraped clean and wiped off for the new gasket) 17. Install the flywheel cover pan 18. Replace the front stabilizer mounting brackets on to the frame 19. Pour 6 - 7 quarts of oil back in the motor 20. Replace the dipstick. Start her up! Now, on cold start, she jumped right up to 58 pounds! After about 5 - 7 minutes idling to check for oil leaks....... Engine was warm and holding steady at 20 pounds. I drove her home, about a ten mile drive in today's 88 degree heat and when I got home I let it set in the driveway and idle. This was now all warmed up, engine hot, and super low idle and the pump is holding 10 pounds where she used to be zero. I feel a lot better about replacing that unit. I'm going to send my original out for rebuild next to have a spare. Have a great night out there! Gary
  3. My recent restoration now has 700 miles on it. My oil pressure DASH gauge shows about 33 psi at start, and holds that at 60 mph. I was afraid the pressure was too low, as the dash gauge drops down very low when warm at idle. I checked the pressure at the BLOCK with a gauge, and I'm getting about 42 psi at start. So, my dash gauge seems to be off about 10 psi, but also means I'm only getting 10-15 psi at hot idle. So.... I purchased another oil pump from Dave Tachney and sent it out to Egge to be professionally rebuilt. I just got it back and it definitely appears to have a sealer around the perimeter of the plate. Do I have to worry about the sealer? Will it dissolve out or something? I appreciate your input before I drop the pan and make the switch. Thank you! At 55 - 60 mph my DASH gauge shows about 33 psi oil pressure. The Buick specs call for 45 psi at speed. So, I checked at the block and I'm getting 42 psi at start up, so my DASH gauge is off by about 10 psi. I got the rebuilt oil pump back from EGGE and there is clearly a sealant around the perimeter. I'm planning on sanding all that extra sealant off the outside before I install it, but is the use of sealant considered a "no-no"? Thanks for any information before I drop the pan and install this rebuilt unit. Gary
  4. My '37 attaches to the throttle rod itself. There is a clip that bolts on to the rod. You can just barely make out the clip behind the intake manifold
  5. Ted The quality of your work and attention to detail is so over-the-top impressive. I love following your progress here. Thanks for all your meticulous work and for posting your techniques. This will be one stunning automobile.... and knowing every single part is restored to such a high degree will bring you years and years of happy motoring. Gary
  6. I'll Second that! Following you, JV and Chris throughout your restorations is "must-see TV".....bringing these vehicles back to life with such exacting detail is very impressive. I follow you guys, knowing full well I don't have your skills, BUT, I do learn at least enough to have a discussion with a local machine shop and understand what they are talking about. Keep up the great work!
  7. Hello Riviera! Great to hear from you! *****(Sorry for the delay.... I was literally posting this Monday night and as I was proofreading.... Out went the lights. They JUST came back on tonight!)***** ..... and some answers for you: 1) OIL: I use "TORCO" brand, TR-1(R) 10W-40. I've been using this in my cars for years. I buy it by the case and do all the cars at once. 2) FILTER: I'm not going to install an oil filter to the engine. I faithfully change my oil every 500 miles or once a year. It may sound wasteful, but I just like knowing I'm running fresh, clean oil. 3) WAX: Bob (my painter) turned me on to a product called "Collinite". That's what I used for the show this time. I have some favorites I've used through the years with successful results. 4) TIRES: I love the way my bias tires look and I'm very satisfied with the ride. The car drives beautifully! Some Photos: (of course!) Once I drained the break-in oil out of the engine, I filled it with this Torco TR-1(R). I also use this oil in my Model "A"'s and the Model "T" These have always been my "go-to" waxes of choice. I like the Zymol, especially their "carbon black" but it was getting very expensive. I've been a long time customer of Griot's Garage, and use their products constantly. Their rubber cleaner and tire dressings make the wide whites just beautiful. This is what Bob recommended . Collinite No. 476S. And he told me "never rub in circles!" Always nice easy lines. They're in Utica, NY for anyone interested. The 1940 Buick at the show had radials. Maybe they drive nicer, maybe they handle better.... But I still like the wide, four-inch white wall that the bias tires have. In my humble opinion, the bias tires just look more "period correct" and I'm very happy with the ride. Of course, I haven't driven another Buick of the same vintage with radials to compare the handling properties, so I'll leave it at that. Aesthetics. Thanks for checking in! Gary
  8. If you want to see how I installed the rear windows on my '37, Please go to page 26 of my restoration thread. For some reason I'm getting a "forbidden error" message when I try to embed the link here. Click my signature link down below, then hit the drop down to page 26. Hopefully it helps. Gary
  9. Hi Don! When I was ready to fire up the engine for the first time, I cleaned all the hose clamps and this is what I found: So I re-used them in the restoration. Do you think these could be original clamps or does the Buick Logo confirm that they are not original parts? Gary
  10. Hello everyone! Yes, the seats were installed on October 19, 2018, and I have been driving her as much as I can! This morning I went for a bagel run, and the odometer turned 700 miles. I REALLY love driving this car!! Just this weekend, the NJ Chapter of the Buick Club of America held it's annual car show. This was the first time I took her out to an actual car show. Members cars were not judged, but we were parked in a prominent spot along the entrance. The show was nicely staged and enjoyed a good attendance. I do have a few finishing touches to take care of: Rear bumper stone guard, Engine pans and fabricate and then install the rear window shade. I'll get to them, but every time I get in the garage, I find myself driving away! I'd like to share a couple of photos from the show. I was told by many people in attendance that I should explore getting a Junior / Senior at Hershey. It's a great feeling when all your hard work is appreciated. I arrived at 7:00 and helped the members with the set up. Later I judged the 70's-80's class. Fun day. You don't realize how much work these clubs put into running a successful show. It is tedious work, and the guys really deserve a lot of credit for making it look so easy. That's a 1941 four-door sedan next to me. My interior Just turned 700. So far, very quiet, trouble-free miles! 1915 Buick 1940 Convertible I don't know the year of the 20-foot land yacht next to me, but it had only 19,000 original miles on it. Our "tails" Roadmaster Convertible. Stunning! This morning on my way out. All waxed and polished from the show! She's getting better everyday! Thanks for checking in! I'll keep you posted as I finish up the last doo-dads! Have a great evening out there.... appreciate you all Gary
  11. From the company website: Remflex Performance Promise • Seals Warped Flanges: Remflex exhaust gaskets come in a standard 1/8-inch thickness and are designed to crush 50%. This allows them to fill gaps in the flange surface up to 1/16-inch! • Won’t Burn Out: 100% flexible graphite construction means Remflex gaskets are good for up to 3,000 degrees F—far exceeding that of any vehicle’s exhaust system temperature! • No Re-Torquing Necessary: Remflex exhaust gaskets rebound 30%, creating an optimum seal that eliminates the need to re-torque! About Remflex Remflex’s unique flexible graphite material has been proven for more than 30 years in industrial applications, where temperatures routinely exceed 2,000 degrees—day after day, week after week, year after year. Now, we’re bringing this technology to enthusiasts of all kinds to eliminate exhaust leaks for good! Whether you have an old pick-up that needs a manifold gasket, or a race car with custom-built headers, you can be assured that Remflex exhaust gaskets will work properly the first time, every time.
  12. May I suggest REMFLEX gaskets... I think it may be a good solution for you!
  13. Here's mine... If you need any measurements let me know!
  14. That black pops when you get it out in the sun! Simply gorgeous!! Keep it up