Gary W

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Gary W last won the day on January 3

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About Gary W

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  • Birthday 01/04/1963

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    1914 Ford Model "T" Touring
    1930 Ford Model "A" Dlx Coupe
    1930 Ford Model "A" Dlx Roadster
    1937 Buick Model "48" Sedan

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  1. Mr. Costello is no longer is with the company, so there was a quite a backlog catching up with all his clients. I have found working with Scott Holbrook directly will help you at least get answers. He is determined to "make things right" and maybe will at least have an answer concerning the wireon. Hope it helps! Gary
  2. Great day that first start!! Congrats!!
  3. That is correct. I use this one from Griot's Garage. (Although they most likely just put their label on this particular unit) The "Battery Manager V". Like Larry's, it's very versatile. I really just use it under the Model "T" maybe once every four months as the "T" doesn't have a generator, and I start and run it on Magneto so the battery just sits idle for prolonged periods. I tried to "idiot-proof" the unit by circling the lights I need to come on before charging so I don't mess things up. The nice part is that I've hard-wired the "female" end of the charger to the batteries, so it's just "plug-and play" and off it goes. I goes through an automatic program and brings the batteries up to full charge, then slips seamlessly into maintenance mode.
  4. Here's another of the floor parts. That "triangle" shaped part on the outside of the main rod goes in last, after your seat bottom is slid in position. I used new 5/16 - 24 X 1" bolts to secure all the components to the floor.
  5. Here's a photo when it came back from Lares: That column is pressed in there tight.
  6. Here's some photos that may help: (These are sized down from their original 12MB.. if you need one e-mailed at full resolution just let me know) Underside of the front seat bottom assembly. The black rails are the rear of the seat that slide on the rear rollers, the forward rails have the holes for the tooth wheel. This shows the floor components in place just before installing that seat bottom assembly. All these thread directly into the floor. When the seat bottom is slid into the rear retainer, you slide it forward and bolt the forward retainer in position to lock down the unit. Hope it helps! Gary
  7. I have a feeling the column is a factory press-fit into the box? My box had a noticeable heavy spot and some "clunking" so I sent the entire unit, box and column to Lares for a rebuild. I don't know how to separate the two.
  8. Beautiful!! Really coming together now!
  9. The Optima runs $150 - $170 depending on where you get it. I also have master disconnects on all my vintage vehicles. I don't use a battery tender. (Except the Model "T" every six months or so) They all seem to hold their charge just fine. Even after sitting for a year while I was restoring the Buick, the cars fired right up. The Optimas in my Fords are now about 7 years old, still work fine. What I like the best is the lack of the acid. They just seem "cleaner" and I don't worry about water levels or that acid corrosion around the battery holder or cover. Just personal taste. My Model "T" had a lot of acid damage when I bought it because the battery leaked all over, so I converted all my cars to the Optima.
  10. In my '37, the Optima Red Top sits diagonally. It's nice and snug.
  11. Gotcha. So, Positions 10 and 1 are ALWAYS LIVE, regardless of dash knob position. It feeds your brake light switch so it has to be live regardless of dash knob position. Position #5 has power in all three positions. This #5 is where you wire your tail lights, and they come on in all three positions, OFF when dash knob is off. Position # 11 has power in dash position 2 and 3. (conventional and passing). Not "0" off or position "1" park. This position feeds the foot switch. Position #9 has power in dash position 3 only. (passing).
  12. Jack: The "always hot" terminals are: I had to resize, but #10 and #1 are directly connected to the thermo breaker, and are always hot. With the feed wire going into the top terminal, there are four terminals that are always hot. As are the two upper terminals that are on the thermo breaker unit as well. Gary
  13. Maybe Las Vegas Dave? I know he has since sold his Buick, but he may still have an account here? Worth a try. That UVIRA is awesome. Cannot recommend it highly enough.
  14. The light switch isn't difficult. Pull the rod out, (as if turning on the lights) Then you can simply push in on the spring from the steering wheel side of the switch and the rod slides right out. A 3/16" allen wrench is used to remove the dash sleeve and release the entire light switch from the dash Here's the book. The picture on top of the right column is the actual orientation when installed in the dash. Access the spring from the steering wheel side. Close up. The top diagram is the actual orientation, and the bottom diagram shows the spring engaged with the pull rod. I included this because you can see the spring pulled out, (lights on) almost touching the dash mounting. But you get an idea of what you are feeling for. And this is with the rod engaged in the spring. Just push in on those two small rivets there and it slides right off the rod. Gary
  15. Hi Steve I don't know if the '41 radio is different than the '37 as far as mounting procedure but my '37 has a heavy support bracket that bolts up under the cowl using the rear hood hold-down bolt. Once that is in, there is a serrated lower section that supports the rear of the radio. The serrations allow you to raise or lower the radio so the face is nice and flush with your dash before you install the front knob bolts. This is the upper part that bolts under the cowl. The rear hood hold-down bolt fits in that slot. The lower support arm swings to accommodate the radio and allows you to align it to your dash. Bolted up top to the rear hood hold-down bolt. The serrated part is where the radio bolts. Hope it helps! Gary