Gary W

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Gary W last won the day on January 3

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About Gary W

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 01/04/1963

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    1914 Ford Model "T" Touring
    1930 Ford Model "A" Dlx Coupe
    1930 Ford Model "A" Dlx Roadster
    1937 Buick Model "48" Sedan

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  1. That black pops when you get it out in the sun! Simply gorgeous!! Keep it up
  2. I had good luck setting the welt to the car using double backed tape to hold it steady while attaching the fenders
  3. When I had my new tires mounted, the service man really wanted not to have weights on the outside of the wheel for aesthetics. But he also told me that the tire balance will be much better if the weights are applied to both the outer and inner rims, so I had the weights installed where they would function best, both on the outer and inner aspect of the wheel. When all done, and that blue stuff cleaned off the new tires, I simply painted the weights black, and visually they disappear. I really like your pin striping! Nice job! After painting the weights, installing the hubcap and beauty ring, the weights kinda disappear. Before and after. Here's the link to that day:
  4. You are quite the craftsman! I enjoy watching this beautiful automobile come together! Maybe for the open ends of the welting you could fabricate a decorative metal "plug" that would have sort of a "tail" on it so you could slide it into the welt and maybe with just a dot of epoxy keep it steady. Steele Rubber carries these glove box bumpers that are made with a long tail. Something along those lines may be a nice finishing touch for the open end. Keep up the beautiful work!!
  5. I ran a dedicated ground directly from the battery to the sending unit. It's real easy to check the quality of your ground by running a temporary wire from your battery to that wire you have bolted to the frame. At least you can remove "bad ground" from your list of possible reasons. Good Luck!
  6. Indeed! Beautiful Job as always! Are you going to have the wheels pin striped before you install on the car? I haven't done mine yet. Waiting for Bob's schedule to clear up but I think I'll take them down to him one at a time to finish the striping. Keep it up.... Gary
  7. Hi Rodney! The single wire is at the bottom. I just took this photo. The blue tape was my way of marking the new wire harness. I labelled it "AMP" so I knew it went to the charge indicator lower stud. (in my mind, "amp meter") The top wires are "12 RBP" 12 gauge, Red and Black parallel tracers. Gary
  8. Mr. Costello is no longer is with the company, so there was a quite a backlog catching up with all his clients. I have found working with Scott Holbrook directly will help you at least get answers. He is determined to "make things right" and maybe will at least have an answer concerning the wireon. Hope it helps! Gary
  9. That is correct. I use this one from Griot's Garage. (Although they most likely just put their label on this particular unit) The "Battery Manager V". Like Larry's, it's very versatile. I really just use it under the Model "T" maybe once every four months as the "T" doesn't have a generator, and I start and run it on Magneto so the battery just sits idle for prolonged periods. I tried to "idiot-proof" the unit by circling the lights I need to come on before charging so I don't mess things up. The nice part is that I've hard-wired the "female" end of the charger to the batteries, so it's just "plug-and play" and off it goes. I goes through an automatic program and brings the batteries up to full charge, then slips seamlessly into maintenance mode.
  10. Here's another of the floor parts. That "triangle" shaped part on the outside of the main rod goes in last, after your seat bottom is slid in position. I used new 5/16 - 24 X 1" bolts to secure all the components to the floor.
  11. Here's a photo when it came back from Lares: That column is pressed in there tight.
  12. Here's some photos that may help: (These are sized down from their original 12MB.. if you need one e-mailed at full resolution just let me know) Underside of the front seat bottom assembly. The black rails are the rear of the seat that slide on the rear rollers, the forward rails have the holes for the tooth wheel. This shows the floor components in place just before installing that seat bottom assembly. All these thread directly into the floor. When the seat bottom is slid into the rear retainer, you slide it forward and bolt the forward retainer in position to lock down the unit. Hope it helps! Gary
  13. I have a feeling the column is a factory press-fit into the box? My box had a noticeable heavy spot and some "clunking" so I sent the entire unit, box and column to Lares for a rebuild. I don't know how to separate the two.
  14. Beautiful!! Really coming together now!