Gary W

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Gary W last won the day on January 3

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About Gary W

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    NJ
  • Interests:
    1914 Ford Model "T" Touring
    1930 Ford Model "A" Dlx Coupe
    1930 Ford Model "A" Dlx Roadster
    1937 Buick Model "48" Sedan

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  1. Gary W

    1937 Buick Radio Knobs

    Carl; Your are correct: Here's the sequence: Radio supported by the bracket that drops down from the rear hood hold-down bolt. That bracket is adjustable to get the radio face parallel with the dash. Special thin nuts secure the radio to the dash panel. Your bass/treble local/distant knobs have a flat spot that fits over the shaft. Finally the ivory plastic knobs are slid in position and set with a set screw. Gary
  2. Gary W

    1940 Buick Super Restoration

    Back in June, 2017, I got my steering column / box back from Lares. I was just in the process of sanding, prepping..... Matt Hinson sent me a link from the July-Aug 2016 Toque Tube II: From Matt: "The colors for most of the interior components are listed on the 1937 Buick Paint Chart. You can find it reproduced on page 4 of the attached issue of the Torque Tube II. VOL 9 No 4 JULY-AUG 2016.pdf Of course, this is for 1937, but maybe the '40's are similar? I don't know the "original source" for the chart though.
  3. Gary W

    1937 Buick Radio Knobs

    The radio knobs are a one-piece ivory-colored plastic knob with a small set screw to hold it tight.
  4. Gary W

    1940 Buick Super Restoration

    The '37's called for "Marsh Brown" on the column. (...and some other components) I painted mine "Savoy Brown", mixed non-metallic only because I liked the deeper color next to my wood grained parts. But the Marsh Brown is proper for the '37 Buick. I used SEM "Trim Black" on the box to match the chassis components.
  5. Gary W

    Opinions re. Condition II

    That is the correct bracket. The 90 degree top part attaches to the bolt that comes down from your rear hood hold-down bolt. The serrated end allows you to adjust the rear up and down to get the face nice and flush before tightening it down. I think it was around $400 to completely restore the radio to blue tooth compatibility. Great Article!!
  6. Gary W

    1935 Lincoln K Club Sedan

    Congratulations Matt and your crew! I'm a firm believer in The Eureka Phenomenon. I can't count how many times the solution came to me when I simply walked away from the problem. So happy for you and can't wait to see how this all finishes. Gary
  7. Gary W

    1940 Buick Super Restoration

    You can upload it to You Tube and just imbed the link here. With only 9MB limit, your video clip will be only one or two seconds if you upload it directly to the Forum.
  8. Gary W

    Opinions re. Condition II

    Phillip: Love the article. If you are still planning on restoring the radio, please consider "Bill the Radio Guy". He made my original radio bluetooth compatible and it has a hidden pigtail to keep your phone charged. I have since made playlists on my phone (or iPod....) with all the big bands... Glenn Miller, Artie Shaw, Benny Goodman and some old radio shows.... It makes the ride so much fun! Great job! Gary
  9. Gary W

    Filter for fuel pump - '37 Special

    Mine has a circular fine brass mesh screen that sits at the top of the glass bowl to prevent impurities from exiting into the fuel line. The previous owner also had an in-line filter attached to the Marvel carburetor also. I did not use the secondary filter as I feel with the tank all treated by Moyer, and new lines, the brass screen should work out fine.
  10. Gary W

    Battery Cable Size/Routing/etc - '37 Special

    James, I just realized all my cables are size 1/0. (Which is a size zero, "one aught"). I'm sorry for the confusion. You originally stated you were going with the 2/0, and on 6V that's a good choice but these work nicely.
  11. Gary W

    Battery Cable Size/Routing/etc - '37 Special

    Plenty of juice to the starter. She turns over fine and it's still a fresh overhaul... still a little tight. I have no problem adding a few extra grounds. A lot of gremlins are caused by faulty grounds. If I can help at all, please don't hesitate. Gary
  12. Gary W

    Battery Cable Size/Routing/etc - '37 Special

    Hello James! Here's how I routed my battery cables. All my cables are size 1/0 and are also cloth covered. I ordered them custom sizes with either battery stud clamp ends or rings depending on where I used them. Overview of my cables. I actually have two heavy cables coming off the " - " (Ground) terminal because I'm a mental case and wanted to be sure I had the car grounded well. I scraped all the POR-15 off the frame above and below the frame. That yellow shmutz is a corrosion-inhibiting battery paste. I used star washers to give it mechanical "bite" into the frame as well. So, the yellow wire under the frame is a dedicated ground wire that runs back to the fuel tank sending unit. I did cover it with a tar-impregnated cloth covering when it was installed. One ground cable runs over to the top of that connection so the cable grounds the frame and the tank ground runs directly from that stud as well. This cable was made with two eyes, the eyes are tinned. Here's how the ground to the frame looks like under the car. All battery cables are cloth covered. That cloth covered wire clipped to the frame rail is the dedicated ground to the tank. The second cable off the negative side of the battery goes up to the starter grounding post. This cable was made with a battery stud clamp on one side, an eye on the other. I have that ground cable attached directly to the ground stud of the starter motor, and a braided ground strap runs from that stud over to the engine mount/side frame rail. The other heavy cable is the hot wire. I ran it through the opening in the engine casting to keep it stable. I also ran ground wires to every single lamp on the car to be sure everything illuminated nicely. Can you say overkill? Can't help it. The only thing I did differently is installed a master kill switch just before the hot cable attaches to the starter. I really want to move that switch either under the dash, or somewhere else easier to access so I don't have to lift the hood every time I want to take her for a ride. If you need any other photos or whatever..... I got thousands! Gary
  13. Thanks for all the nice compliments. I'm so happy that you guys find value in my work. The next car I would love to own would be a convertible model Buick of the same vintage. 1937 or 1938 Buick Model 66-C. Keep that between us for now! Of course, I need garage space so that will most likely be the first step. Thanks for all your help throughout this journey! I've made some really great friends here, and appreciate the camaraderie. Respectfully, Gary
  14. Did everything myself. Carefully note how you remove everything and take photos as you go. It really helps the re-install Use the "string technique" when you install your rubber moldings. It really makes things go nice and easy. Here's how I did the rear window glass: Front windshield glass / rubber install. In this post, I had help and we used tools to pull the rubber over the pinch weld. The tools did make a couple small marks in the rubber. The string method I used on the rear glass left no marks in the rubber at all:
  15. I ordered ALL my rubber replacements from Steele. Every piece fit as it should.