Gary W

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Gary W last won the day on January 3 2019

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About Gary W

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  • Birthday 01/04/1963

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    1914 Ford Model "T" Touring
    1930 Ford Model "A" Dlx Coupe
    1930 Ford Model "A" Dlx Roadster
    1937 Buick Model "48" Sedan

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  1. I'm enjoying the mold process. Thanks for sharing all your work with us. I don't know if it will help when pouring urethane or rubber, but in our dental practice we pour stone and epoxy models directly on a vibrating plate to shake out the air bubbles as we pour. If you slowly fill the mold while vibrating it, the air bubbles rise up and out. Like I said, your materials may be heavier, but maybe? Also, do you warm your molds prior to pouring to let the material flow a little better? When we cast our crowns, those are poured in a vacuum to help pull the air out of the investment. Keep up the great work and good luck with the new parts. Do you see a day when all these parts are simply 3-D printed? Those machines are amazing. Gary
  2. rear main removed, you can see the bolts that release the flywheel. MARK your flywheel position to the crank, and the pressure plate to the flywheel.
  3. You have two locator pins, the four bolts you got out already, and then two inside the bell housing.
  4. Here's my 1937 Front window vent restoration: Just click the arrow in the upper right corner. (Page 44 of the restoration)
  5. Thanks, but I originally mis-read the tag as a '38.... I went back to edit my original post to correct the year to 1936, and change my 8's to 6's. The photos are definitely a '36 model. Gary
  6. I thought it looked like an "8". A photo of the front would settle the year question.
  7. 1936 MOD. 91. (Is that a 91 next to the MOD.?) 91 (if I'm reading it right) is a 6-passenger four-door sedan, trunk back, fender wells) The 36-4919: 36: 1936 4919: Fischer Body Style Number 4 : Buick 9: Series 90 (Limited) 19: 4-door sedan Love to see more photos!!
  8. Matt: Is this the "coach flap" piece you are referencing? My car had a thin metal backer under the fabric that I'm sure if you just find the holes in the body you can make a metal strip to support the fabric. I called it a "front pillar windlace retainer", but I have a photo of the metal strip in the series.
  9. Matt; You are doing a great job with the interior. I'm happy you got instructions. LeBaron sent me boxes of loose fabrics, headliner rolled up in the corner of the box, no instructions at all. My first challenge was to try to figure out the order of operations in some sort of logical sequence. Maybe you should keep those instructions. Someone may need them someday. Keep up the great work! It's so fun to see it all again!
  10. From the 1937 Dealer Service Bulletins: Pages 45 and 46 Pg. 45 "remove the hood"... My hood has a saddle nut in the front and rear, just up under the radio. You'll need some help lifting that monster up and over the car. It's a good idea to have a table waiting to accept the hood when you remove it. Then, after draining the radiator, remove the air cleaner and brace rods, remove all the hoses, the fan, water pump, thermostat housing to clear the front of the block. Pg. 46 Remove the four side bolts and the two top cap screws Cover the block with cardboard to avoid really banging up the core Looks like he straddled the engine, tip the core back and wiggle it free. Thats how Buick says to do it! Hope the information helps Gary
  11. Jakes; The drip shield is installed from the inside with the garnish molding removed. Here is the page of the door being built: Just touch the little arrow in the upper right side. The original design on the window gap is simply a couple rubber bumpers. I got them from Steele and all they do is stop any rattling. I do have the felt channels that I am going to carefully bend to shape and most likely just use an automotive epoxy to install. But for now, I just have the rubber bumpers like original.
  12. Hi James! The overview from the manual. STEP - BY - STEP from my build. Just click the arrow in the upper right corner.
  13. Hi Matt; I think you may get a satisfactory result by woodgraining the ash receivers instead of chroming them. You seem to have the technique down and a little buffing around the upper rim will make them look good as new. I had the outer molding and the door wood grained. The "chrome" box is just the guts that I first cleaned up with my wire wheel, then polished with jewelers rouge. Sorry for the dark photos, I just went out there under the cover, but you get the idea. They look nice with the brown-toned fabrics. Keep up the great work! Gary
  14. On the '37's there is a gasket that surrounds the cowl vent on the cowl. I got it from Steele Rubber and it fits nice. after checking the fit, I applied a very very thin bead of gasket adhesive. See the thin yellow squiggly line Being sure it gets properly seated all around the opening Next, I sat the cowl vent down over the gasket, checked all my gaps were consistent all around, and placed a couple books on there for weight. This allowed the gasket to compress and seat nice and even and allow everything to set up. After 24 hours, I got inside and attached the cowl arms and mechanisms . Gary