Jump to content

Gary W

Members
  • Posts

    897
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    13

Gary W last won the day on January 3 2019

Gary W had the most liked content!

5 Followers

About Gary W

  • Birthday 01/04/1963

Recent Profile Visitors

3,639 profile views

Gary W's Achievements

5,000+ Points

5,000+ Points (5/7)

  • Reacting Well Rare
  • Dedicated Rare
  • Very Popular Rare
  • Collaborator
  • Posting Machine Rare

Recent Badges

1.6k

Reputation

  1. Matt, In the same vein as the large drum, is there a way (kinda like your evaporust setup) that you can simply run a garden hose into the block, constantly feeding it with fresh cold water? I guess you can take the temperature of the water that exits to see how hot it gets, but this may help decide if the block passages are all open and flowing, if the water pump is indeed working...... Just spitballing. Gary
  2. When I did my '37 Buick, I spent incredible amounts of time restoring the original hardware. Many of the bolt heads had markings that are not replicated today. Some of the specialized bolts are not made today. For the ones I had to replace, I would use my belt sander and grind off the modern torque symbols. My routine for every nut and bolt was: Wire wheel all the rust off, using channel locks to hold the work Soak in a container of acetone to fully degrease, clean and prep for paint Use a cardboard box to lay parts out and label for assembly Prime and paint OR just use a Rustoleum paint and primer rattle can For bolts that won't hold torque, they gotta go! First the wire wheel to remove the rust from the threads, and give it a good finish. (EYE GOGGLES A MUST!) Front engine mount bolts before and after using just the wire wheel. Front Brake parts after the wire wheel and now in a tray of acetone Labeled and set up on a cardboard box Sprayed gloss black, some sprayed silver..... Organized for the build. Of course there are some nuts and bolts that were completely useless and had to be replaced. (running board hardware) I had a part of my restoration where I made a post about Nuts and Bolts. I got a lot of personal messages about it! (Just touch the arrow in the upper right hand corner)
  3. Hi Matt I had the same oil pressure issue as you.... should have sent it out from the beginning... whatever. I bought a nice one from Dave Tachney and sent it right out to EGGE in California for the rebuild. They did a great job and pretty quick turnaround. When it returned, I installed it and sent the original one right out to EGGE so I now have a second rebuilt unit ready to go if needed. The other thing I did with my car is I drilled two holes in the thermostat housing so coolant slowly flows until the engine warms up to fully open the thermostat. For what it's worth. Good luck with everything. Gary
  4. Hi Rob! That '37 hood needs some guys at the corners to safely remove and install with minimal paint damage. It's heavy and unwieldy. Your center hinge should have a hold down bolt inside the car behind your radio (if you have one) up under the cowl, and a second hold down up front at the radiator area. When in position and the handle locked, the hood should grab in three places: Cowl, Up front and center right under the handle. My car did not have the front ones and it made it difficult to align until I found a set. Unfortunately, the '37 hood panels do slide fore and aft and you have to watch and carefully open them. I also got a small ding on my new paint not realizing those huge hood panels slide so easily down that center hinge. I was told that Buick corrected this on the '38 models with a small metal stopper at the cowl, but the '37's do not have this. Here's a photo of a 1938 sent to me, showing the metal part at the cowl to stop the hood from sliding back and banging into the cowl section: My blog has a lot of hood information starting on page 24 and it continues on. This issue was addressed. The other big hood issue is the front alignment to the front clip and the adjustments made to line it all up right. Here's some hood information from my site. It starts before this though: (Touch the arrow on the upper right) Good luck! If I can help with anything, don't hesitate! Gary
  5. Here is the link to the discussions regarding the headlight switch and the multi beam system. When I stepped on the dimmer, the drivers headlamp went out completely, instead of going to a "low beam" or a "cross beam" situation. I finally found a good restored headlight switch, but have not installed it yet. Being I never drive at night, it hasn't been an issue so far, but its on my rainy day list. Bloo is correct that one of the internal "triangles" is shaped differently and if they are not in the correct places and orientations the system doesn't operate as designed. Good Luck with it! Gary
  6. Sorry for any confusion... I edited my original post so the proper downshift technique is up top. But the "goose" between gears makes the downshift effortless.
  7. Here's my '37. if you need more, just ask. I have a tons Gary
  8. Whenever I downshift from 3rd to 2nd (whether a non-synchro Model "A" or my Buick), I've found that slightly "goosing" the accelerator between gears really helps the downshift slide easier. The quick increase in engine RPM's seems to help the gears mesh much easier. Clutch in, slide gearshift out of third, release clutch, quick "goose" the accelerator, clutch in, slide up into second, on your way I have a hill by my house and this is a daily event so I have mastered this maneuver. Maybe it'll help to try it. Gary *** Edited the technique. Yes, "goose" it with the clutch released to match the gear RPM's, then depress the clutch and downshift into second. ***
  9. Thrilled to see her back on the forum! Cannot wait to hear her purr to life after the long "roller coaster" ride that these restorations take us on. I've been following every step of the way, and now you are just a couple quadrants from home. Beautiful job, one of the finest "non trailer-queens" I've ever seen. Be proud of your accomplishment and the amazing history of this fine automobile. Well Done! Gary
  10. When I removed the freeze plugs, I found a lot of rust buildup in the block. I wheeled the block out onto the driveway and hit it with my power washer from every angle... reverse, into every freeze plug, into the outlets, out of the inlets.... until she ran clean. * I had my radiator professionally re-cored * I run 50/50 Prestone with one bottle of NO-ROSION * I run with a 180 thermostat. To date, have put 2000 miles on her, and she has never gone even a whisper over the 180 mark, and plenty of heat for those cold January mornings. I am very happy that I took the time to blast it all clean. I did not know of the thermal process, or I would have sent the block for that treatment. Plugs out. No explanation needed You can see the river of rust pouring out the from the interior. Blast away until she ran clean! After power washing and blowing compressed air, the results speak for themselves. Gary
  11. On my '37 Special, I swapped the original Marvel for an NOS Carter 608S. It involved making all new connections for fuel lines, throttle linkages, heat source for the automatic choke... Here is the whole write up from the beginning of the swap. Maybe something in my description will help you. (** I have recently come across the original firewall to carburetor linkage so I will be removing the "Z" shaped linkage I made and fitting the correct, original part soon.) Heres the sequence:
  12. Good morning and good luck with your Buick! I'm sure Sean will chime in here with all the specs of you data tag, but for starters: 1937 Model 41: Buick Special 4-door Trunkback Sedan (Usually there would be a "41" stamped on the plate after "1937 MOD"__________ Style No: (Fisher Body Style #): 37-4419: 37: 1937 Model Year 4: Buick 4: Series 40 "Special" 19: 4-door Trunkback Sedan Trim: 301: Taupe Mohair Fabric. (Available on models 41, 44, 46, 46S, 47 & 48) Paint 500: Imperial Black (solid... not metallic) According to my records, the Model 37-41 represented 40% of Buick production that year, with 85,195 produced. It was by far the most popular model sold.
  13. That is correct. I sent my unit out to be professionally rebuilt, and simply installed it when it came back from the shop "as is". I assumed the unit was checked for proper OHMS range, and I also figured there must be a float arm configuration so the float didn't bottom out. I ran out of gas at just under 1/4 tank showing on the dash. My float was hitting the bottom of the tank , preventing the arm from dropping fully, BUT even on the bench when the arm was allowed to fully drop it never came near 0 OHMS. Luckily, I was able to remove some of the material on the "stop", which allowed the arm to drop a little more, and gave me a reading of .6 OHMS. BUT... The float was still bottoming out in the tank, so I had to bend the float arm, and by trial and error, achieve the tank bottom clearance. I guess my "fix" was unconventional, but it works as it should.
  14. You've come to the right place! Bunch of smart guys here who are more than helpful and are willing to share. I restored a 1937 Model 48 four years ago, and this site was my saving grace. Throw a question out there, attach a photo or two (or a lot..... we like photos!), and the replies will start coming in. Good Luck with your Buick! Beautiful, roadworthy automobiles! Gary Wheeler NJ
  15. I'm a firm believer in good grounds and I ran several dedicated ground wires to lights, to the accessory electric priming fuel pump, and the fuel sending unit. From my battery, I ran two ground cables: one to the frame to create a "ground hub", and the second ground cable up to the engine. This is my schematic tracing my battery cables, the master "kill switch" and the frame "ground hub". In the car, this is what it looks like. I have two ground cables (2/0) running off the negative pole. The one goes up front to the engine, the second grounds to the frame and this is where I attach my dedicated grounds if needed. This picture shows the "hub" with my electric fuel pump and my fuel sender wire attached. The fuel sender ground wire attaches directly to the flange mounting screw. I routed it down the frame rail and I left plenty of slack so I can drop the tank without any problems. Gary
×
×
  • Create New...