Gary W

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Gary W last won the day on January 3 2019

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About Gary W

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 01/04/1963

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  • Website URL
    www.garymwheelerdmd.com

Profile Information

  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    NJ
  • Interests:
    1914 Ford Model "T" Touring
    1930 Ford Model "A" Dlx Coupe
    1930 Ford Model "A" Dlx Roadster
    1937 Buick Model "48" Sedan

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  1. How's your battery? Are all your cable connections clean and tight? Is the engine running when you notice the dimming? The generator should be able to keep the lights from dimming. But if the car is just sitting (not running) and you depress the brake pedal, you are lighting two more lamps, which is a higher draw on the system. I ran a ground to every single lamp to avoid ground issues. It was required for the new UVIRA reflectors in the headlamps, but it also really helped the fog lamps that are mounted to powder coated brackets and needed the extra ground. Just be sure you don't have a short somewhere when you press the brake pedal causing the dimming.......... Your car really looks great. These electrical gremlins kept me awake for a month trying to get everything settled! Gary
  2. One more. This one was just behind the rear axle
  3. Here's what my car had as the rear hanger:
  4. Couple more photos You can see where the fabric has torn, but think of the clamp moving back and you get an idea how it was originally assembled.
  5. Hi James My '37 had a few "rubberized, fabric" insulators that supported the clamps. The rear hanger (turned on its side in this photo) is a heavy rubberized, fabric with the metal support riveted on. The tail pipe clamp hung over the "hook" and gave it a little flexibility. If you look at the factory service manual, my rear hanger is not what they show in the book, but it works well. The '37 manual. It shows the insulator type mountings used in four places, one rigid mounting up front right to the block. (I did not have that support, so I did not use that one. Mine is clamped to the exhaust manifold up front, and then has the four supports throughout the length. Hope it helps!' Gary
  6. Hi Larry! From the bottom of that spot-welded "lip" under the trunk to the floor is 16 1/2". I have a spare tire and a full tool box in the trunk, I don't think that would change it much.
  7. Saturday November 16, 2019: The Buick teaches me another lesson......... Good morning out there. Here's one of those stories where you start the day with project "A" in mind (installing auxiliary fuel pump) and end up somewhere else! I've been working on installing an auxiliary fuel pump, solely for priming the carburetor after she sits for 7+ days. The directions say to mount the pump close to the tank. So... I got under the car to seek out a good location and immediately noticed the right rear leaf spring leaves all "slid out" of stack!!! It's funny, last week I took the car out to get some 3-y ear "before and after" photos, and my wife noticed in some of the photos that the car looks like it was leaning. I wrote it off to the angle of the camera..... the position of the car in the photo....... until yesterday when I was under there. Let me show you what I found: The rebound clips held the longest three leaves. But the fourth slid out to the inside of the car, the bottom stack went out to the tire. I did notice a heavy scratch down the leaves, I have no idea where that came from or if it is related to this issue... I was able to jack up the rear end, rest the chassis rails down on the jack stands which "unloaded" the spring. Just by loosening the stabilizer nut and all four U-Bolts, I was able to realign the leaves properly and tighten her back up. 3-years ago. I went back to this photo just to see how far the nuts were tightened. Then to the manual which states "It is important to tighten spring U-Bolts as tight as they can be drawn up with an 8" wrench" Retighten at 1000 miles and again at 2000 miles. And tighten them I did! Then I went to check the drivers side and those nuts took another turn also! November 2016 to November 2019. I was thinking of getting another rebound clip for the middle of the stack. I would get four, one for each side of the rear leaves. Would that in any way change the riding qualities? It just seems that there are a lot of "unprotected" leaves in that stack, and I don't want this to happen again. Originally, the springs had a tin cover the entire length. So here's my two cents: When I first assembled the spring plate, I used my Ryobi 18V impact wrench to tighten things up. I NEVER even thought to check the tightness with a wrench, ratchet, breaker bar.... after using the impact. I assumed the impact made it nice and tight. Wrong. Even yesterday, I still used the impact to tighten up the nuts because it works fast and it was 28 degrees out. But when the impact was at it's limit, I put a ratchet on the nuts and EASILY got a full turn out of them! So I tightened up the other side as well and went out for a ride. All good. So, I think the issue is that the initial torque was insufficient. But.... I dodged a bullet because if that bottom stack swung inwards, It could have pierced my gas tank. As it is, I only have a little scuff mark on my tire Lesson Learned. Gary
  8. NJ requires two plates on every registered vehicle, one front, one rear. You have to display the actual NJMVC issued "QQ" plates on your historic vehicle. I think there is a petition brewing somewhere in Trenton to make it legal to only display a rear plate, but I don't know the current status. I like getting my "QQ"'s personalized, I think they look cool. About two years ago, I was getting my 1930 Roadster ready for the Monmouth County Concours d'Elegance. To finish the detail, I put original restored 1930 plates on the car. I was tooling around the block and got pulled over by a local officer who first asked me if the car was registered, (the original plates didn't jive with his computer) and then told me I need to get the "QQ" plates back on the car ASAP. I WAS carrying them with me on the rear package shelf, but that wasn't good enough. They had to be affixed to the car. I didn't get a ticket, but I think I was close!! I wish we had a Y-O-M program like some states, but so far......... Always great checking in with you guys. Love this place! Gary
  9. Saturday, October 26, 2019: First Thousand Miles! Almost exactly one year since the maiden drive, She turned her first thousand! During this first thousand "break-in" miles, I've done the following: > Swapped out the reproduction front coil springs for the original coils to restore the proper front ride height > Changed the original Marvel BD carburetor for a Carter 608S and all related linkages > Replaced the thermostat gasket and bolts > Hooked up the hand throttle > Changed out the oil pump for a rebuilt unit > Burned approximately 78 gallons of gas and changed the oil four times. (oil: the break-in oil and the first change were fouled by the Marvel. I also changed it during the oil pump swap) Still to do: > Make a rear shade and install it. I'm looking for fabric now. > Install an electric "priming" fuel pump to fill the carburetor when she sits over a week > I'm also going to raise the seat about 3/4". I'm 5' 7", and I feel like I need to sit a bit higher! I have to say, this really is a fine automobile! I absolutely enjoy driving it and find any excuse to get her on the road! Turning 1000. (Note that oil pressure sitting right at 45 psi!) Sitting with the fall foliage on a beautiful day. Have a great night out there! Gary
  10. You could first remove the fan belt, run it for a bit to rule out your water pump bearing. Then, as Larry stated, take the rocker cover off and check your valve clearance while hot. At least you can check a couple external things off the list.