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Gary W

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Gary W last won the day on January 3 2019

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About Gary W

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  • Birthday 01/04/1963

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    1914 Ford Model "T" Touring
    1930 Ford Model "A" Dlx Coupe
    1930 Ford Model "A" Dlx Roadster
    1937 Buick Model "48" Sedan

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  1. I also replaced my front motor mounts during the restoration. I also believe my were original just going by their condition. I was very very careful to photograph every step of the way, and here are the photos of the front motor mount on my '37: Here are the motor mount bolts before and after wire wheeling all the rust off them. Installing the bolt through the rubber washer and the lower vulcanized mount. I used a strong piece of wood through the round opening as a lever to push the bolt down and compress the rubber so we could catch the bolt underneath
  2. My '37 had them on originally but I did not replace them when I installed the new rear leaf springs.
  3. And here's the brake rebuild step-by-step:
  4. Hi C! Here's the link to my brake / front end teardown and rebuild. It's '37, but much of it is the same procedure. Just touch that arrow in the upper right corner. Gary
  5. 1931 Ford Model "A" Roadster. Is that from the Danbury Mint?
  6. I have a '37, but I'm sure a lot of this carries over. Regarding the rear seat, just lift the lower cushion up and out of the car. This will expose the two steel clips and the two bolts bolts that go through the floor that secure the back cushion to the floor. The holes in the floor are threaded to accept these bolts. My '37 had three wood screws that came in through the trunk to hold the top of the rear cushion secure. A little wiggle and muscle and the rear cushion should come right out. You can see where I cut the Dynaliner so
  7. Here's a little more information from my manuals: From the 1937 Buick Shop Manual, printed December 15, 1936, in the section labelled "STEERING", page 162 (9-4) states: " The three-spoke steering wheel of hard rubber, molded over a steel reinforcement fastened to a forged steel hub or the flexible steel spoke wheel, will be used on all models." Every drawing in that shop manual looks like your wheel, with that "bump" about midway down the spokes. Also, there is no mention in the shop manual that discusses a horn ring. The manual only discusses the Horn Button (
  8. The more I search 1936 Buick, the more I'm leaning that way. There seems to be a lot of detail items that match the '36 Buick Wheel....... Always fun chasing down correct parts and information! Good Luck!!
  9. There are a few things about your wheel that is "steering" me away from '37 Buick. Understand that I am comparing it to my original '37 Buick Banjo wheel with a horn ring. I know Buick made a black hard rubber one also for '37 and I am assuming all the accessory "banjo" type wheels would have come from the factory with the horn ring.... This is what I see that differs from my '37 Steering Wheel: Hub with the cover off. The casting face is flat except the raised areas to accept the horn ring. Your wheel appears to have a rounded top par
  10. Hi Paul! So nice hearing from you again. The wrap I used is from Restoration Supply Co. It's called "Linen Cord". It is a nice waxed cord that stays put and when done, you use their "Q-Dope" to secure it. I used the Black, part # ELE098. Gary
  11. Be very proud of that transition! Really nice work!
  12. Terry... that engine is a work of art! Masterpiece!
  13. AutoTrader Listing Link: (Please Contact Seller directly through the AutoTrader Link) https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=559885640&zip=07701&referrer=%2Fcars-for-sale%2Fsearchresults.xhtml%3Fzip%3D07701%26city%3DRed%2BBank%26startYear%3D2014%26incremental%3Dall%26endYear%3D2014%26makeCodeList%3DMB%26listingTypes%3DUSED%26sortBy%3Drelevance%26location%3D%5Bobject%2BObject%5D%26state%3DNJ%26firstRecord%3D0%26marketExtension%3Dinclude%26searchRadius%3D25%26isNewSearch%3Dfalse&listingTypes=USED&startYear=2014&numRecords=25&
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