pepcak

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About pepcak

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  1. Don, thats where I would seek too, despite inch sizes does not exist here (neither do true hardware stores anymore). 🙂 Talked to the people who does various roof hardware, ordered tubes today. Seems at your picture that piece of pipe from cut out is also missing???? Maybe did not exist at all??? Josef
  2. "Larry, do you still have the key for Delco switch board? I would be interested to get one.. THX, Josef
  3. Hi Terry, thanks for hint; I just had a feel the "Buick" ones does not appera to sit right. My muffler looks little bit different, the elbow with cut out looks similar but not the same. There is sheet metal part riveted to the elbow casting that actually forms the seat for tubes. Same as Bob Engle showed elsewhere. Josef
  4. Fiddled with car little bit. Removed stone hard (maybe original ?) tires from the rims. They are 34x4 (on 26 rims). looking for one rim (overall OD approx 693mm, overall width approx 95mm, inner dia approx 652mm, inner width - where the tire sits- approx. 68mm. Pictures of the split and rim lock attached. All wheels appear to be in good condition, tight. and true. Do not use carriage bolts for wedges but some kind of hardware with internal thread through the wood and common machine bolt 1/2" - 20. Wedges are mix of two types, any idea what is correct or better to use? The wider "BUICK" type appear to sit on the nails that fix steel plate to the wood , while the narrower "BAKER" type goes neatly between them. I have approx 8 pcs of "BUICK" type wedges and rest are "BAKER" type. Worked on the exhaust as well. The pipe from engine is in superb condition, very solid. Muffler is rusty, but everything there and can be used as pattern, it is the the same Bob Engle was showing in another thread of this forum, except of the asbestos rope. Any idea how the cut out pipe looked like? I guess there should be something fastened by two bolts opposite the cut out valve? I am going to have new headlamp bezels made, would anybody be interested for a set?
  5. Hi, together with my father we acquired 1917 D45 that friend of ours brought from USA (MD) few years ago and now his priorities changed. Chassis # 237456. I have read many posts here which are very helpful. The car is missing few obvious things so if anybody has spare to sell, it would be very welcome. Hood latch down, 2 off Rim, 26" for spare tire Rear lamp bezel and glass Petrol tank cap What does correct folding top hanger look like? I have one, but looks bit too small to carry all these bows.... What is the correct Boyce motometer for this model? It is broken off here and i would like to get the correct one, can repair if needed What is the correct horn and where it should be located? The radiator has missing or blanked quite a few tubes so I am thinking about to get a spare one.... What the correct headlamp glass look like? Need two of them Where is the speedo and mile counter driven from? There is no "wire" from gearbox, no gear on front wheel..... Is there a parts list, shop manual and user manual available anywhere? Did not find much on-line... Thanks for any help, I am sure this is not my last post here.....
  6. Working on my shell today, I have an question, There are two "flaps" riveted from inside of support legs. How they are expected to support radiator from bottom? Should they actually be one "U"shaped piece? The problem is that I had to redo complete bottom part of the shell and not sure how these "flaps" looked originally. Picture anybody? Josef
  7. Looking for pair of 1928 bumper medaillons / clips in restorable condition. Can trade for rear bumper for rear spare wheels (bumperettes type). I am based in Europe, Czech Republic. Thanks for any help. Josef
  8. Hi, a friend of mine looks for a help with carb for 1930 DeSoto. There is a missing part, what is he missing there and where to get it from. thanks for any help / guidance. Josef
  9. Hi, There were 2 types of head in 1928, with 3 and 4 water outputs. I have one stainless water return pipe for 1928 Master with 4 legs sitting here, ready to ship. Send me a PM for detail if you are interested. Also I think I have seen some carb on e-bay recently, #132833153867. W/ broken zinc bowl, would need to find another piece with brass body. Time to time they pop out there. Some exhaust manifolds too (e.g. item 392154279450), please double check if this is the right P/N. Even the risers pop out sometimes, this with crazy price tag from UK (item 153015859031). Josef
  10. Well, after turning the slider part down to fit metric bearing ID 55mm, the whole thing disintegrated; apparently it was made up from two pieces. Back to square one: Does anybody have the slider part / bearing retainer #206526 (or the complete assembly w/ bearing 36138) that he can sell? Good original parts preferred. Any help is much appreciated. Josef
  11. More precisely - will 27-27 (Standard) part fit to (28) Master?
  12. Hi Hugh, another forum member here thinks he has complete 1927 Master retainer and bearing assembly that he can possibly miss, so I will wait for his findings. I agree the shielded / sealed bearing is better solution than open 3 piece design, that needs to be axially secured on top of other issues. Josef
  13. Hugh, thanks for information. The execution and condition of the single plate clutch was really bad, cracked disc of blue/yellow color loosely bolted on flywheel with its thickness significantly machined down, loose & broken parts etc. Luckily, they kept the lever and gearbox plate intact. On top of that I am trying to preserve original design as intended 90 years ago. I got original flywheel and clutch assy from Fred R. some tome ago, so the puzzle is slowly becoming complete. Somebody in the past welded up extra material on the retainer to increase its OD to 55 milimeters and used some really massive (OD 125mm, 36mm thick) 3 piece metric bearing (for 55mm shaft), with its axial location shifted forward to compensate missing thickness of the clutch. See attached image. I am thinking to buy a smaller one, with OD 90mm that fits between 3 pins protruding from clutch, and with 55mm ID to fit on (increased) retainer OD, This metric bearing is 25mm thick so it seems a good match with original 1". The disadvantage here is the bearing is only available as 3 piece unshielded design, thus it would require some extra circlip or something to keep the things together. Alternatively I am thinking to have it shielded as one of my friends runs a sheet metal forming shop. Other option seems to be to source original retainer and (replacement) bearing. Josef
  14. Hi, what are correct dims for 1928 Master clutch release bearing, especially thickness of it? Somebody in the past modified the clutch to single plate on my car, so trying to to convert it to original setup. Is the bearing the same with STD model? Does anybody have the slider part / bearing retainer #206526 (or the complete assembly w/ bearing) that he can sell? Thanks for any help. Josef
  15. Spotted these on e-bay, in "Motorcycle parts". Someone may be able to use them, unfortunately I seek for Master Parts.... I have no interest in them, seems they are in Australia..... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Rare-1928-Buick-Clutch-Release-Bearing-And-Carrier/163026193289 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Rare-1928-Buick-Diff-Crown-Wheel/163026193292 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Rare-1928-Buick-Clutch-Parts/163026193294 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Rare-1928-Buick-Speedo-Drive/163026193287 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Rare-1928-Buick-Universal-Joint-And-Housing/163026193285 https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Rare-1928-Buick-Gearbox-Sliding-Gears/163026193284