Brian_Heil

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Brian_Heil last won the day on August 8 2018

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About Brian_Heil

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    18 Miles South of Flint

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  1. BCA member Tom Halka still owns this 1979. He ordered it and bought it new when we both hired into Buick Engineering. He watched it go down the line.
  2. The oil consumption on the original rings was never very good. I get ~150 miles per quart touring in the summer with 20w50 and stock piston and rings of unknown age. A quick clean up hone can’t hurt but as noted pistons aren’t cheap. By my calcs 50,000 miles of touring would only pay for half a set of pistons based on what I pay for oil. Add boring and I’m even further ahead. I did the regression formula once for starting with 6 quarts and consuming one then adding a new quart then consuming it and so on. The oil approaches something like 700 miles average mileage/age. I have a very strong hard drive magnet in the pan and I buy a case of 12, put six in the sump and when the 6 remaining get consumed, I change it and start over. Or sooner as always seems the case due to a pending long tour week and not wanting to change on the road.
  3. Poor man’s disposable coolant filter is the foot of a pair of pantyhose captured in the upper hose at the clamp.
  4. I took my valve out altogether and put it in a box for the next guy. My takedown pipe comes up direct to the manifold flange. I removed the heat pipes (23 has two, you have one) since when even plugged off they still conducted a great deal of heat to the carb.. They are in that same box. I respect your efforts. I’d remove the butterfly off the shaft (who will know?). and make a heat pipe from something with low conductivity. Wonder if a hardwood would last? Can you isolate or insolate the ends to stop the heat conduction path? Plug the hot end with a small freeze plug for certain to keep the hot gas out.
  5. And now I see Don's pic from below. Nice.
  6. Welcome to the PWD Les! 68,500+ searchable PWD posts and lots of good folks ready to help. Well done joining the BCA too.
  7. I stand corrected and agree. I dug out my spare 1923 cylinder jug this afternoon and looked down the valve cage bores and there is a cast feature in the combustion chamber to stop the valves from dropping into the combustion chamber. Easy to see on the exhaust bores but it is there by about 3/8ths of an inch on the larger intake bores.
  8. The bottom of the cylinders have a generous machined taper to aid installing the pistons from below, and as Don mentions they can come out with the crank in place by rotating the crank to the correct position. Note the rod offset and the cast numbers on the side of each rod and which way that cast number faces. The cast numbers/offset face each other on each pair of cylinders or at least they do in 1923. Then you can access the the cages from below with a long hard wood dowel and drive them out. A word on stuck cages. An old timer once showed me that a brisk smack from above in the downward direction with a hardened socket the same size as the removed valve spring on the top of the cage can break the locking Carbon at the bottom of the cage bore. Keeping the valves from dropping into the chamber can be done with a wire through the keeper slot or tape the keeper in place or fill the combustion chamber with the piston up with a lenth of rope stuffed in there. Don’t go crazy just a good rap, nothing that might crack a cage.
  9. Welcome Mike! Agree with Rod W. Do a search on a topic. Lots of great info on the PWD site. Please consider joining the BCA as well. Lots of helpful people here so if you don't see your answer, just post and ask. You are not missing anything in mid-Michigan right now. High noon and -4F. Not sure if you are seeing our post signatures, but mine shows I am in Fenton, MI so not too far away.
  10. Same here, enjoying these as well. Please keep these coming!
  11. I had a similar issue with a broken link. I removed the broken link down at the transmission end and shortened the housing the same amount (the whole housing and cable was too long already). Removed the housing end cap, trimmed the housing length and reinstalled the end cap. Perfect. Housing was full of frozen grease so clean it and the chain and repack with white grease. Guessing old frozen grease was part of the failure mode. The speedo had a stripped gear which I rebuilt with JB Weld and a small set of files. Today I use a high tech bicycle speedo with lots of functions. They even come wireless now. Or your smartphone can do the same. Fixing the whole deal was sort of a personal challenge. After I proved I could fix it, I disconnected it. Rather noisy affair.
  12. Well done! Nothing snapped off just good hard work and soaking. What were your total days of soaking Vs. how many hours of actual wrenching? Do you believe the lifters were a factor? People will want to know when they read this 5 years from now 😀.
  13. There have been some questions about the PWD Roster update email above, bcaprewar@gmail.com as published in the January 2019 Bugle. If you desire, you are welcome to copy me and or Jack Gerstkemper when you send your updated or request-to-join information in to this address. A reminder, you must be an active (paid up) BCA Member to be an active voting member of the PWD and we need your information for any PWD election(s) in the future. And the good news is still good, the PWD is right here and free! As most of you know, the BCA Office and our BCA PWD data base is moving to a new company at the end of January. We don't want to lose any PWDrs in the transfer. Please help us by sending in your information. Thank you for your assistance in this matter.