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Brian_Heil last won the day on August 8 2018

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About Brian_Heil

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  1. Agree on the ‘drop the pan’ comment 100%. Inspect the gunk for Babbitt and run a magnet around in it and see what you find. Clean pan and pick-up. Next would be a compression check for stuck or burnt valves Then check for lube circulation with valve cover off during compression checks motoring with starter and the oil pressure gauge. Cheap online fiber camera to inspect the fuel tank for gunk after you first drain. Cover off the carburetor bowl and inspect for gunk and float function and needle seating/sealing. Do you have spark?
  2. Ha For those with touring cars, the second windshield really does make the backseat comfortable. Without it, the wind coming over the front windshield hits the backseat passengers right in the face. I made mine with cheap easy to replace plexiglass panels from Lowe’s. It pivots on arms from the main top anchors on either side so it flips up for entry access and rests on the door top pads. Make sure to measure with the top in place/up so you clear everything and can use it with the top up or down. Easy to remove too. Don’t have too many pics of it but here’s one from this summer.
  3. Never had a foot rest or a robe rail in my 1923 Model 45. No witness marks for either. Guessing my floor wood is new and the reupholstering covered the rail marks. After all these years of kids, dogs, luggage, more luggage, garage sales and other assorted cargo (apologies to those who actually rode in the back) and er a passengers, I’ve never missed either and no complaints. So if your car is lacking either, don’t get too bent out of shape.
  4. You have posted in the correct Forum. Several 1929 experts. Give them time to see this and respond.
  5. Actually you should not use silicone products around modern engines as it can and will contaminate the Oxygen sensor(s) in the exhaust. Silicone is also not permitted in areas where paint is to be applied in automotive facilities either
  6. David Looking at your older posts, it would appear you have a Model 35 4 cylinder Does anyone know the 4 axle ratio? I’m not familiar with the 4s. In addition to advanced timing, balloon tires the next time you need them will give you 10% more speed and better stopping contact patch. I was going to say for free but the tires sure aren’t.
  7. And very soon it went to ‘automatic’ lubrication. A design evolution that would suggest it did not get serviced often enough in the prior designs.
  8. My preference is the M533 and if leakage is a concern, the Penrite steering box lube. Migration is what gets the lube into the tight fits of the yoke bearings. Corn heads run ~300 RPM, our U-joint ~5 times that. I would be concerned with the corn head grease being thrown and stuck to the inner wall of the ball and not being worked and fluid and getting where it needs to be. I’d at least pack it fairly full so you know it’s in contact with the spinning joint and being worked and not just hanging on the walls. Channeling as it is known is a significant consideration in mac
  9. Agree that Shop Manual is a stretch. When I got my copy years ago I too was very disappointed. Almost like they didn’t want the average person servicing their Buick.
  10. Perhaps a better approach might have been ‘my 1916 calls for soft cup grease in the U-joint housing. What are others using in theirs?’ Terry, you have every Buick print for your car along with Walter Marr’s grocery list the day your car was made along with his 5th grade report card but no lubrications chart? I’m speechless. 😷😷😷
  11. Still would be nice to know what the very comprehensive Buick Lube Chart and Manual call out.
  12. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thixotropy Thixotropic Also corn heads operate at relatively low speeds but most importantly have big gear sets that mix the lube and work it.
  13. The corn head grease actually is not affected by temperature but rather by ‘work’. It becomes more fluid when squeezed for a better term. Not sure how much of that is going on in there.
  14. Terry I was pretty sure yours was different. What does your lube chart say? If they recommend steam cylinder oil then I would fill with the above M533. If there are leak concerns then I would use the Penrite Steering Gear box lube.
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