Brian_Heil

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Brian_Heil last won the day on August 8 2018

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About Brian_Heil

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    18 Miles South of Flint

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  1. Almost certain 1923 still had a metal cam gear. Believe the change to a fiber gear was in 1924 Someone with a master parts book keep me honest here please thx!
  2. Happy to help. Hugh is the third person to borrow these. Even though these are for the 1923 small series car, they have lots of details common to both I have to assume. Just how Buick stenciled the name and part numbers on the inside is interesting. One thought for Hugh. What if you made a plot of your car's hard points (fasteners and poles) and overlaid a drawing of these, with the two could you create a full series pattern drawing?
  3. Welcome Andy Happy to help. Highly recommend pulling the pan also. When you get it and the oil pump cleaned you can inspect the bearings too. When the pan goes back up, fill the dipper troughs first.
  4. That’s why good dry cleaners are so hard to find. The good old ones are all dead from the Stoddard Solvent.
  5. I’m not a Chemical Engineer but Wikipedia agrees with me at least.
  6. I would add an in line thermostat and raise the coolant temp, and oil temp will follow assuming there is not a separate oil cooler. You need to get the condensation/water out of the oil by having the oil near 212. My 1923 Buick runs about 160 coolant and 200 oil stabilized on tour in the summer. No thermostat. Fairly typical that oil is ~50 above the coolant in an engine. These other cars must have huge radiators. Frozen oil pumps. Common issue back in the old days. Water lays in the bottom of the pan and freezes locking the pump and breaking the drive mechanism Did you know a 1923 Buick has a spring loaded friction drive on the oil pump drive shaft from the factory just for this? The thing slips if frozen and creates heat to melt the ice and then still works once thawed. Nothing breaks. Pretty smart those Buick Engineers. No idea what other years have this.
  7. If you are running such cold oil temps, why such a high viscosity number desired. I’m confused.
  8. Ha. I’m no expert. I wrote lab requests to guys with PhDs who sent me wonderful reports who were experts. I change my old car oil every 800 miles roughly. At that low an interval I would be throwing away perfectly good synthetic. In an unfiltered, cold running engine that has lots of condensation, blow-by and sitting time between run cycles, I want the detergents in the modern oil to do its job and then exchange that dirty oil with new clean high quality oil. That’s my school of thought. Is synthetic great stuff? It is. Be leary of synthetic blends. The % amount of actual synthetic varies widely. Some blends have next to none yet charge nearly the price of full synthetic. The late Harold Sharron of Brass Buick fame and also 40+ years of designing engines for Pratt & Whitney had a response when asked what type of oil he used: “Whatever’s on sale with an API rating” Terry asked me a question about graphite assembly lube on roller lifters. I would say no for fear of skidding. But an absolute yes on flat tapper lifters.
  9. Now being fair. Lots of oil manufacturers are not API certified which begs the question if they are so wonderful (which they may be) why not be certified to the industry standard (API)? I don’t know the answer but I do know API, ASTM, SAE and the like, these standards go through years of review and development and, in the case of API random monitoring to remain certified.
  10. Snowing like heck here so had some time to research Torco further. They are not API certified. https://www.api.org/products-and-services/engine-oil/eolcs-licensee-directory
  11. I do love this site. Someone just asked me for a good pancake recipe.
  12. Carb cleaner and dry cleaning fluid are close relatives. Pick your poison. Literally.
  13. Grimy No disrespect to your friend, but those numbers are too low to believe. I’d recommend some confirmation testing with a modern thermal gun checking block, head, sump and coolant outlet temps.
  14. And we can all add one of these magnets to the outside of our pan and remove it right when you change the oil. Then put it back. I just know some smart aluminum oil pan guy is going to post next.