Brian_Heil

Yes This aids in the gears meshing as the starter engages to the flywheel via a gear set housed within the right rear engine mount leg.

Never seen this chart. Good stuff!

Interesting a 1919 has tapered Timkens and my 1923, 4 years later has round ball. When I blow up the pic of the cleaned up rollers I see what look like well worn sprawls and nicks.

Agree the guy at Delco with the stamp set was consistently bad.

Not sure how anyone can tell from the pics the bearing's condition. Clean it up and inspect.

Like this:

Clean up the casting around the tag. There should be a stamped number like D-246 or similar. Need that number to look up the year and application. Delco changed them slightly every year so many do not work in other years. Most are one year only specific and do not interchange. Someone else on here have that Delco S/G chart handy? I’d have to really dig for it. Thx.

While we are on the subject of fans. When I bought my 1923 it had a funny noise that took me a while to track down. The issue was the 5 rivets that fasten the blade spider to the hub were worn and loose. Really loose. I ended up removing all 5 rivets, slightly over size drilling the 5 spider and hub holes and installing 1/4-28 grade 5 bolts and center punching the nuts in several places to keep them from moving. That was 28 years ago. Grab those fan blades and see what the hub and blade rivets are doing.

My guess is a short in the brake light circuit that puts a large draw on the system when the brake is applied. Testing with a run of the mill multi meter might be a problem since most only test to 10 amps then they blow the internal meter fuse. I’ve taken a cheap fuse holder and placed it in line and determined the excessive draw based on how large a fuse it will blow. Not rocket science but I protected my meter. Rather than a bad ground, you may find you have too good of a ground as in a short to ground. Don’t believe a 1927 was running any type of fuse other than the thermal breaker switch on the back of the combination switch. These breakers can take a great deal of load before they cut out.

Before ethynol showed up in fuel and way back during my college days, I had a Willys jeep with a leaking tank you sat on top of. Bought 2 feet of rough twist type chain at the hardware. Put it in the tank and shook it like heck with water and detergent several times for an afternoon. Let it dry out. Had so many holes when I got done I had to tape the big ones closed and applied two coats of the Bill Hirsch gas tank product. Lasted for years until I sold it. Think I did the whole job for less than $15.

I took a tank to Gas Tank Renu store #1 (Swartz Creek, MI) ~1985 when they were just starting out. Still own the car (not a Buick) the tank and coating have been flawless. 65 outlets now in the US and Canada. Lifetime guarantee. 39 years and counting. Had them do 2 other cars since that have been bought and sold.

Thank you Buick Brother!

Let us know what you come up with. I need to do the same. I grease mine every day on tour. I’m about due to take a spatula to the inside of my hood. Ha.

Maybe an ultrasonic cleaner? No experience with one but they are no longer that expensive and you can leave the part in there.

These Marvels will run just fine with the cover removed. Great for investigating fuel flow and float level.