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Brian_Heil last won the day on August 8 2018

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About Brian_Heil

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    18 Miles South of Flint

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  1. Amen to that. Sharing and helping is at the heart of this hobby. Dave helped scores of people.
  2. I experienced the exact same issue with a green knob shut off. Now clean and dielectric greased, I know I have to really clamp it tight to not have the issue. An oldtimer said Model As did this all the time when the connections got corroded. Common 6V issue.
  3. My silver Rustoleum paint is holding up nicely after 20 years. Not sure what a quart sold for 20 years ago but I got rid of it recently as it had gone hard.
  4. Never had mine apart so can’t help there. I did place it in a pan on the stove to know where 212F is early on. Now that I have a thermal gun (they have become very reasonable and great for checking temps of exhaust runners for weak cylinders, rear diffs in tow vehicles and trailer bearings too) I have found the mono meter to be very accurate. It never sees actual coolant flow. But it does see the highly saturated air/steam of the coolant. You should leave an air space above the core. I can now after years, look at the mono meter and based on ambient know when my coolant level is getting low. When slowly filling a low cold radiator, listen for when the core ‘bubbles’ this is the point where you have just reached the top of the core and have covered the tubes so they bubble with coolant and escaping air. Then add a ~1/2 gallon more once the bubbling stops since you have filled the core and you are good but not too full. It’s tough to see in there to get a good full level otherwise due to the flow deflector plate and overfilling just spits it out the overfill tube when running and people yell at you that you are boiling over. The see thru window of the mono meter is to alert you to the red and also to be seen at night in oncoming lights. It works. Like me, many of you have other vehicles. I keep a log of when I change their coolant on a rotational basis. I put the still good used 50/50 from one of them in the Buick to protect from freezing in the Fall for storage and during the touring season just top off with water. Repeat each season. Another lesson on storage. Many old engines have a ring of mud around the base of the cylinder water jacket. Draining just water can leave this ring wet and there have been cases where this ring freezes and cracks the jug in what was thought to be a ‘dry’ engine. Always store with 50/50. Or is a minimum soak that crud ring with some 50/50 if you have been running just water. Also the foot from a pair of pantyhose hose makes a great filter to temporarily place in the upper hose and secure with the engine out tube hose and clamp. Crazy the crud you will collect. A leaking water pump shaft seal can and will suck air at cruise speeds causing lots of entrapped air in the flow and bad cooling performance. A very common issue. ‘Hey my leak goes away above idle!’ No, you are most likely sucking air. I blew 50 dried bug carcasses out of my fins with an air hose. Who know how old they are. Had to help. Pay at attention to fan rotation and pitch. You wouldn’t be the first or last guy to put a fan on backwards or wire an electric one backwards. Idles fine and at cruise speed the two air flows (ram and fan) match and you get no air flow. I fixed 3 over the years that were brought to me with this issue after the owners gave up. One guy only did parades for years because that is the only speed it would cool well. Now he drives it like he stole it.
  5. This is not the correct clearance. 0.001 inch total clearance per inch of journal diameter is standard practice.
  6. 1923 six has a tapered nose set screw instead of a cotter. Not sure when that started. there is a threaded boss on the wrist pin boss of the piston. Wrist pin has a matching tapered hole. Not the greatest but a step better than a cotter pin. Plain screwdriver slot in the set screw you hit with an impact driver as hard as you dare to set it. The teflon buttons are widely used. Easier than matching snap ring grooves.
  7. Just a thought, but if the arms and geometry are close, dwell, is, well, dwell. The coil will never know. Just tweak the arms so the two points are square/perpendicular to each other. The points on one of these units will never wear out in your lifetime. There is enough material in them to dress them every year. And another trick for dialing in your dwell with a meter is to tweak the gap by bending the arm with a pair of needle nose pliers. Playing with that small nut is like working on a watch.
  8. Reminds me of the guy who took a turnbuckle off a screen door and fashioned an adjustable lockable timing rod to dial in his timing perfect with a timing light. It can be frustrating loosening that jam nut, moving the rotor, re-tightening the jam nut, re-installing the cap and then checking the timing to see how close you got or didn’t get. Ha.
  9. Here is a random 1923 controls pic off the internet
  10. Cooper Trendsetters Made in USA
  11. First upgrade I made to my car when I bought it. Upgrade the rear window glass and windwings too if you have them.
  12. Who was the fellow who was putting together and selling early tool kits and running notices for same in the Bugle? Have not seen the adds recently.
  13. And I should have added that for me and the earlier Buicks, both levers up is closed throttle and full retard spark I leave my spark lever fully advanced though since it starts just fine there. The only time I retard it is to impress someone with how slow I can get it to idle.
  14. Yes, yours is different than 1923. In 23 both throttle and spark are on the right-hand side gas lever is longer/outer, spark lever shorter/inner But you get the point, set your full retarded base timing 14 degrees more advanced than the book with your lever in the full retard position.
  15. Inspect the rubbing block on any NOS points very carefully at the small rivets Request detailed pics first The 100 year old block material on many has started to crack and break down Every set I inspected at Hershey last year were bad My 1923's rubbing block is repaired with JB Weld. Been running that way for years.