27donb

I also did the sealed bearing conversion on my 27-25 fan hub. It's a good idea, rather than have a wobbly fan that will just get worse, and possibly rub or damage the honeycomb radiator.

Amen! I love these old Buicks, and I don't know of anyone that has one that is leak less. I put special gooey sticky steering box lube in the steering box, and it still leaks. That is after trying 80 weight and then 250w transoil first. As some others have said in the past, one of the very best things my Buick does is leak.

That is beautiful work. The pictures make it look so easy, although I know it wasn't.

It appears to be the original and correct shape however, which is better than the replacements available from the aftermarket (like the frame on my car).

Nope! I've owned the car only since 2005, and the top bows are somewhat "loose" in their metal sockets, so I've never had the top down. Yours and your friends model 25's are beautiful cars Leif, they look spectacular with the tops dropped!

Here is my 27-25: I had not seen the simpler cradle type posted in this thread until today. I thought they were all like mine.

A Packard is more difficult to drive than a Buick? Having never driven a Packard (and probably never will have the opportunity) Why is that?

Be honest...I bet it made you smile too.

It is my understanding also that 1925 had clear glass lenses. 1924, and 1926-27 had fluted lenses. As others have stated, 1924 and 25 had left and right headlights, because of the high mounted crossbar on the light itself. 1926-27 had a crossbar mounted lower to the headlight fender mounting bracket, and the headlights were the same left and right. I believe 1924-25 had a bezel mounting screw that was not seen on the front of the bezel, 1926-27 had a visible screw at the 6 o'clock position. The screw should be slotted, not Philips as on the lights for sale. I believe all 6 cylinder cars had nickled headlight BEZELS, the buckets were either painted black or nickled depending on model and series. Some 1927 Sports and Master models also had rear nickled trim rings on the headlight and cowl light buckets.

Thanks Rod, I will pass those pictures on to my friend.

A friend is restoring a 1927 model 58, but he doesn't have the original trunk lock. The restoration shop is suggesting installing a T-Handle lock, but he thinks the lock should be flat with a thumb slide cover. Does anyone have a model 58, or a closed model Buick with a trunk (in the body, not an add on trunk), and what lock configuration do you have? Which would be original and correct, T-handle, or flat lock with slide cover? Any insight would be appreciated, at this time this issue is close to holding up the project!

My point exactly. Just because you could, does that mean you should?

Block it off, repair, restore or replace your cracked heat riser, and reinstall it on the engine for the last time. Both of my 27's have blocked heat risers with no driving issues. The exhaust heat on these old cast iron risers takes its toll, and the system is not needed with most of these classics being driven in warmer weather and on modern fuel.

Also I've found the front and rear wheel hubs reasonably "warm" after returning from short trips at realistic speeds, meaning to me that there is more friction involved in the old style bearings. The transmission really warms up too after being out on the road for a while. Greater speeds only mean more heat and stress, as others have said. These cars are not lightweights by any standard, so the faster you go the harder it is on the binders as well. My 27-25 Standard is comfortable at 35 mph, the 27-54CC Master is happy at 40 - 45 mph max speeds.

The voice of reason! With all the talk of "pushing" old Buicks to highway speeds...I couldn't agree more with Mr. Shaw's opinion. My Grandfather's 1924 Model 45...my Father's 1927 Model 54CC...both 6 cylinders...never, ever an engine problem or issue keeping the engine RPM's low. Those engines ran cool and forever. I don't know how different the old sixes from the 1920's are from the eights of the 1930's, but slow and steady is preferable in my opinion.

Thank you Fred, that is good information!

Does anyone know if this 1928 design gas gauge and repair was the same used for Master 1927 models? My 27 54CC dash gas gauge has stopped working, and I haven't tried to tackle the repair yet...

I have not installed a mat from Bob's, but the only way I know of to do a job like this is to set the new mat aside, and make a template of the floor area out of a heavy paper. You can use several pieces of paper, overlap them to make it easy, and tape them together on the floor to cover the whole area. Cut the holes for the shifter, pedals, etc, and if you make a mistake just add a new piece of paper and do it over. When you have the template perfect just lift it out and place it on the rubber mat and mark the cutout locations for trimming.

Can you elaborate?

Yes I believe my friend has that picture for his literature collection with his car, thanks!

Actually I posted the question there first and got no responses so I tried here.

Hello, Does anyone know the correct body and job numbers, for the 1927 Model 58 firewall tag? A friend has this model car and his tag is missing. Or, does anyone own a 27-58 and could share a picture of their body and job firewall tag, or pass along what the numbers are? Please help! Thank you in advance Don B.

My 27-54CC has cream color gauge faces, nickle plated brass headlight buckets and cowl light housings painted upper body color. It is my belief that Master series closed cars had wood grain gauge faces, open cars had cream color. Don B.