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27donb

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Everything posted by 27donb

  1. That makes sense, cutting the coil would make it worse. I haven't actually "done" anything yet, I am just experimenting on the bench to try and figure it out, checking the voltage at the switch when the lights are in "dim" position. I didn't actually cut the coil, I just probed it at about half way up the coil, to find 4 volts. Thanks for the link and advice Dave!
  2. Nope, the VOLTAGE at the resistance terminal, is 2.35 volts. The lights are dim. All connections inside and out have been sanded and shined up. I just measured the ohms, and I got 0.8. I tried measuring voltages at different points on the coil, and at about 2-3 coils (half way) the voltage is about 4 volts. Should I cut half the coil off, and wire it that way to get the 4 volts?
  3. As I stated, that is a picture of a coil but not my coil, my connections are clean. The voltage at the resistance is 2.35.
  4. I just finished putting together a combination switch for my 24-45. Before installing it in the car, I wanted to test it on the bench with a 6 volt battery. I removed the two 21 cp single filament headlight bulbs from the car and wired them to the switch. But during the dim "low beam" test using the resistance coil on the back of the switch, the coil heated up. Very hot. I am looking for opinions from those who have the original resistance coil in use on their 1925 (?) and earlier Buick, before the dual filament headlight bulbs and dimmer switch was used. Is it normal for the coil on the back of the switch to heat up that much? I mean, I know that resistance creates heat, and dimming these two headlight bulbs has to generate heat. But on the other hand, I don't want to set my treasured car on fire. What is your experience with this resistance circuit and coil, and what is normal? I do want it to work as original, and in my state the car inspections even for antique vehicles require original equipment to work. So just bypassing the coil and having one headlight brightness is really not a solution I would be happy with. The attached picture is an example of what I am using, my actual connections have all been cleaned up.
  5. I have heard that pot metal is best restored in that fashion. Pot metal is more like zinc, or aluminum, and will not attract a magnet. Pot metal that I have had replated, has been the same cost as brass or steel parts, so maybe they didn't do that process. The results were acceptable. I wasn't going for show award winning quality, just shiny chrome, which is what I got. The motometers were original, and I disassembled them for plating. The plain dogbone is brass, the fancy one is a Buick pot metal accessory for 1925 I believe. I use it on my 27-25. I'd be interested to see how your plater deals with the handles with rotating knobs and the like that you have. The place I used had to have everything disassembled. Although he was able to do the landau iron hinges without me taking them apart.
  6. Perhaps this question should be started in a new thread, in order to keep this existing thread on topic of the engine noise concern.
  7. Restoration Supply Company sells non detergent oil, page 21 of their free PDF catalog. http://www.restorationstuff.com/catalog.html No affiliation, but have purchased from them in the past.
  8. Again I am not familiar with the differences between the sixes and eights...but I run either 50w or 20w-50 with no problems, and that's pretty thick. Absolutely no running in cold weather though, it's all set up for 50+ degree use only!
  9. On the 27's, the oil pressure reading came from the fitting coming out of the block. The oil filter system was after the oil pressure fitting, so if the filter was clogged it would reduce pressure and flow to the rocker arm shaft, but the pressure reading would not show it. There was a fitting on top of the oil filter with a petcock that could be opened while the engine was running. If oil flowed out of the valve, the filter was NOT clogged. Your '31 set up looks quite different, but you could check the flow after the filter to the rocker arm shaft by loosening or removing a line (temporarily) to check for oil flow out of the filter. If there is a clog or low flow out of the filter, that might explain why the oil pressure is good on the gauge but the upper end is somewhat dry. Also, filling an oil squirter can with engine oil and manually lubricating the rocker arms where they contact the valves while the engine is idling and see if the noise changes might indicate if this is a lubrication problem or not.
  10. If you watch a rocker arm, the sound seems to be in perfect time with it. Would that mean it's a lifter issue? I don't know about 8 cylinders, the sixes seem to have more oil splashing around up there. I had a small block chevy engine that had 1/2 of a valve spring keeper get loose off the valve stem. The spring was still retained to the valve with 1/2 keeper that was left wedged in the valve stem. It made a similar sound, but not as loud. I wonder if this is somehow valve geometry related...
  11. It seems like that would work, but if the roll pins ever did get loose it would cause damage for sure. What size cotter pin do you need? http://www.mcmaster.com/#cotter-pins/=11q536b
  12. Not being an expert of any kind on the subject, I am trying to figure it out. The 1927 shop manual copy I have, talks about the play of the intermediate side differential gears (where the axle shafts are attached to) should be not more than .008" when assembled in the case. There are adjustment sleeves for the bearings in the rear axle, but I think that has more to do with gear mesh. But again, I'm not really sure, not having readjusted anything in the rear axle of my cars. My axles have "some" end play, as seen when I jack up the rear wheel and move the wheel in and out toward the center of the car. How much does yours have?
  13. Just to be clear, I haven't installed the cable on my car yet to see how well it fits between the transmission and speedometer, I think the cable is if anything a little long. The threaded nuts fit and the driving and driven ends fit their respective ends. The casing is about 67 1/2" long. The ID of the nuts is about 13/16", 18 threads per inch. I suggest you check your transmission and speedometer to make sure the cable ends will fit what YOU have. I hope this helps...
  14. We might need an expert to weigh in here... My 1924 6 cylinder had this mating end on the transmission: And this mating end on the speedometer head: Maybe I have the wrong transmission adapter, or the wrong speedometer head. But I found these NOS on Ebay, and it seems to fit both ends. It is a little long and I haven't installed it yet, but hopefully I can just route it under the car to make it fit between the two connections: http://www.ebay.com/itm/351639599346?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Also, this website would make up anything you need, however I have not bought from them: http://www.bobsspeedometer.com/1/120/cables_and_casings.asp
  15. Exactly what I needed, thanks Leif!
  16. I did receive my manual wiper, but I'm still missing some bushing or something, could use a close up picture of someone's manual wiper installed in their windshield frame of their 1924 or 1925 Buick.
  17. anyone have a photo of a 1927 tower surround plate ? Kevin Here is the plate from my 1927 Master on the left, and the installed 1924 on the right. The second picture is the 27 on top of the 24.
  18. Terry, Thank you! I have heard, seen advertised, and in print, "1924 Buick Master Six" and after a period of time, I just gave up trying to right the inaccuracy of those claiming that's what they had in car or part form. I have also tried contacting people about mis-representing their 1926 Standard car for sale as "Master Six". There was even a yellow and black 27-54CC Convertible Coupe for sale like the car I have, advertised as "1927 Buick Roadster". Oh boy...! You are a wise man, not a "wise guy" by bringing this point up.
  19. Yes I have seen that one, it looks similar to this one too: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Hand-Crank-Manual-Windshield-Wiper,2301.html Similar to what is offered for Model A: Here is a low quality picture of what should be an original wiper from a 24-55 Car that was for sale on Ebay a while back. It has a larger knob than the other aftermarket wipers available: So then I remembered...Wiperman.com! No affiliation here, just have bought from him before. He was able to find one that had the larger knob, and I purchased from him. Still in transit, can't wait for it to arrive.
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