27donb

Interesting! My 27's Master and Standard have a drain plug. I wonder why they changed the design and then went back...

I agree, I would get the drain plug so that by some appearances, it might look more original. I am undecided as to what I should do. Maybe I will try to solder up the leaks and my intention was to double filter the fuel coming out of it anyway. It's on the project sidelines now, I've moved on to re-wiring.

I always thought black smoke was an over rich fuel condition, blue smoke was oil burning (leaky rings, valves).

Rod, They may be referring to springs like this: https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-S106-Tubing-Bender/dp/B00004T827

Excellent pictures and information. I always thought the oil distribution tube was many pieces, not one piece with holes in it with tees soldered over the holes. What is your plan to remedy all this? Replace all worn parts, or just the really worn ones like the shaft that drives the pin, and the pin?

Excellent! Great info to share.

I hate it when the rod uses the emergency exit...

Different cylinder head?

Bob, Thank you for the information, I do like the tank. It's a hard decision, to spend $700 and get an original tank coated that may not have the original painted finish anymore, or just spend the extra and get a tank like yours made that can be painted to look original. Did you opt for the drain plug too? Don

I have been a passenger in old Buicks (pre 1930) for 45 years and have observed the experienced drivers over the years on how to drive and keep these cars running for a long time. I have been driving these same cars now in various traffic conditions for over 25 years. My driving has not been in anything close to a big city, as some members here have referred to. Years ago, I used to take the Buick to the store, to the movies, or on errands and it was fun. Today, no way. Distracted drivers are the biggest hazard on the road today. Light turns green, I shift as best I can, as I glance to the rear view mirror to see the diver behind me almost rear end my slower than his or her car or SUV. Perhaps they were impressed with my 21 inch rims, but failed to make the connection of a car with 4" wide tread and wood spoke wheels isn't going to lay down a strip of rubber in front of them. How many of us, even when driving our new(er) vehicles, look both ways when OUR signal light turns GREEN? I do. Because I have watched too many cars go full speed through red lights. Avoid the T-Bone by being observant and watching for hazards. My best advice is: - Plan your route to avoid congested areas. - Enjoy yourself and your drive, but make sure your head is on a swivel, because other drivers will be looking down reading a text. YOU have to look out for THEM...unfortunately. - Be the BEST Defensive Driver YOU can be. "The standard Safe Practices for Motor Vehicle Operations, ANSI/ASSE Z15.1, defines defensive driving skills as "driving to save lives, time, and money, in spite of the conditions around you and the actions of others." I prefer to think of it this way: Defensive driving skills are driving to save lives and prevent accidents in spite of the conditions around you and the actions of others. I hope we all stay safe and all our cars remain accident free.

John, I was reading the website for Gas Tank RENU. My 24-45 tank is very rusty inside, and after cleaning and soaking here at home for a couple of weeks now, is still not clean enough for me inside, and pin holes leaks have begun. My question is, the coating used by that company, it solves the rust and leak problem, but is it a rough finish or one that can be painted? Originally the tank would have had a nice finish, I wonder if the coating surface eliminates that option. Thanks, Don

Bob, My 24-45 gas tank is rusty inside, and is springing leaks. I am considering what I should do about it. The tank is out of the car. Other threads suggest different coatings, and the best suggestion seems to be a Gas Tank RENU process that is lifetime warranted, for what seems to be in the $700 range. How does your fabricated tank compare in terms of price? Are there any other features missing in the fabrication, other than the indented side panels?

I thought bulbs of that kind were rated 6-8 volts. Maybe they are burning out because you are close to the limit on your voltage reading.

I do have one, can you post some pictures of your car? Here is one for sale. I contacted the seller and indicated that the car was a Convertible Coupe and not a Roadster, but he declined to revise the ad. I have no affiliation with the seller or the ad. http://www.grrclassiccars.com/invitem27buickmaster6.html

I was wondering if these from McMaster-Carr would fit the bill, even though they only come in quantities of 10 or 25. The seem to have the same dimensions as Steele Rubber products, 3/4" x 1/2" thick.

Good advice, I just checked mine. And while you mention the hood hold down hardware, where is the best place to get the rubber feet that push into the side of the hood? I see Steele Rubber has them @ $6.00 each. Any other sources? Where did you get yours?

I get 42 1/4" across the front part of the body at the door jamb, outside to outside, at the top near the windshield. The measuring tape spanned over the steering column and close to the dash board, to be a little more clear.

That is interesting, maybe the previous owner had a similar issue and did the same thing.

There is a small hole in the top of the steering column of my 24-45, near the hub of the steering wheel spokes. Is this a drain hole, and it should be rotated to the underside of the column? Is it some kind of an oil hole? Or should it not be there? Does your 1924 Buick have a hole in the steering column in this location?

The story as it was relayed to me was, the original engine was removed to prevent any possible damage during the running of The Great Race. I am not sure if they engine was used in the race in 1993, or if the second engine was used in both races in 1993 and 1995. When I talked to the previous owner in 2011 (when the car was last for sale) he indicated the second rebuilt engine was built to put out around 100hp. It has a 40lb lighter flywheel, new pistons and babbit bearings, and stainless steel valves. The car was a low mileage original, except for the repaint. When the car was sold out of my family, it had around 12,000 miles on it, so I assume the original engine has somewhere between 12,000-15,000 miles on it. The original engine spins, but there are some parts missing. I presume the missing parts were added to complete the replacement engine which is in the car now.

What is the wheelbase of those large cars? Beautiful and impressive!

I was able to purchase the white Buick in January. The car was owned by my Grandfather in the 1950's, and sold after his passing in 1993.

This car was owned by my Grandfather in the 1950's. It was in the family until 1993. He purchased it from a Buick turned Chevy dealership. He enjoyed the car with our family for many years and into his retirement. When my parents were married, they were driven from the Church to the reception in this car with the top down, with my Uncle as the driver. I remember many rides and vacation trips in the car when I was young. In this thread is a picture of me on the running board in the early 1970's. After my Grandfather's passing, the car was sold and used in The Great Race twice by the new owner, in 1993 in the blue and black colors, and then again in 1995 when it was repainted in white and equipped with a spare rebuilt engine. In January 2016 I purchased my Grandfather's car back. The original engine came with it in a crate. The other picture is of the car being unloaded at my house on a blustery but snow free day in January. The car is in great shape but having been in storage since around 1995, it needs some TLC. I am attending to that, but it still isn't running yet.

My advice to anyone with a prized car in their family or collection is, think twice before selling it. Tracking down a specific car, and buying it back into the family, can be a daunting and most times expensive proposition. Just be prepared for that! Not everyone has an emotional attachment to a particular car. Sometimes, as long as it's "similar" to what a person in the family used to own, that fits the bill. My Grandfather's 1924 model 45 Buick was in the family for "only" about 43 years before it was sold. I found it online in 2011, and then again in 2015, and was able to purchase it back. It was worth it! Good luck Andrew!

Kevin, 12 - 50 1/8", measured across at the front corner of the outside of the center pillar 13 - 46 7/8", measured across the rear edge of the front seat along the floor, 4 3/8" back from the rear door jamb As an interesting comparison of touring cars, the 120" wheelbase in 1924 (6 cylinder) to 114 1/2" wheelbase in 1927 (Standard Six), the longer wheelbase is 50 1/8" across the front seat at the center pillar, the shorter wheelbase is 47 1/4".