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About simhin

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  1. Me again, Bob, you said... 'There are open vents on the top of rocker arms and the brass attachment for the front drain tube ' Well the front drain tube is clear and fine, but when we look down through the hole in the head, there is a step there that looks like a misalignment between head and block....its very odd! However I dont think its restricting flow.....'open vents on the top of the rocker arms'....we only have a vent in the brass fitting at the end. There is another hole that has a plug in it which is the first mounting point back from the front end. Should this be open? It looks the same as the oil feed to the shaft, tapped hole. I think after this we are going to try to restrict the oil between engine and filter . We did the compression test again, but this time made sure the engine was hot (just finished a run round) 4 cylinders at 110, 3 cylinders at 105, and number 2 at 90 number 2 is the odd one out, but still not too bad. Next we will do a leak down test. We still have a large pool of oil forming in the spark plug hole recesses. Each one has enough oil in it to come up the body of the plug and make each plug wet. The plugs aren't leaking back from the cylinders, but we cannot see where its coming from. If the studs dont go through the head, and there are pressed shields in there, where is the leak....any help appreciated everyone sure I have the correct head on this engine??!!? Regards Simon
  2. Gentlemen, I am new to this section of the forum but am after some help. I am the guardian of a 1912 but 1913 model year car which belonged to my father who passed away a few years ago. On starting the car at the weekend I managed to blow out one of the caps in the cylinder head holding the spark plug. It was terrifying and with the hood open the 1lb chunk of metal flew into the air and didnt come down for several seconds, Smashing back into the front wing! Ok, I remember about twenty years ago the same thing happened. I have also found brand new replacement caps in the pile of spares. On top of that a specially made tap to cut the threads into the head. So when it happened last time, dad obviously got the ammunition together to fix it a few times. However I cant remember what was involved in fixing it!! I dont know if the head came off, if there was a crack, or what the frequency of this type of issue is? The cap could have become unscrewed, the head could have a crack and opened up.....So my question is, does anyone have any experience of this problem, and why it happens, and the best way for me to tackle it? Any help appreciated Simon
  3. Good morning, Well we've had another go at it....we have put a sleeve into the oil feed pipe to the rocker shaft to try to reduce the flow of oil. When measuring the output into a cup however, it seemed to fill in exactly the same time! But, the breather hole at the front of the shaft (at the top of the overflow feed to the timing gear) is now not leaking oil, so some volume must have been stemmed. Also the oil presure has gone up from 15psi to 22 psi. Although I dont know how accurate the gauge is... Lastly while we were doing that, w topped up with some straight 50 oil, in an attempt to raise the viscosity in stages, so that might have helped as well. The result? might be a little better, but its not exactly significant. We did think it had improved again when it went out for another run, so maybe its going to take a while for it to settle down....Any comments on the oil pressure? Is there some other damage that we may now do? Regards Simon
  4. Bob, once again, thanks for your help Have a click on this link and look art the volume of oil dripping from the underside of the rear of the shaft....this happens in a few spots. It looks a lot of oil! and this one too...hover over the image for movement.. Once again, does this look normal to you? Simon
  5. Bob, thanks for you notice my oil feed in the rocker area? The first piece of pipe out of the head is smaller and is soldered to a bigger diameter tube. It looks like a mod, so do you know which diameter is corrrect? Also , and this is killing u, do you know the thread into the head where the pipe is, and also the thread the other end, feeding the rockers. Regards Simon
  6. Bob, I hope you are out there... here red are two photos....the first one shows the red oil filter housing them a pipe up to the gauge and the other that I believe feeds the head.....the second shows the oil pipe to the rockers etc. these are both 7 MM. So is that 5/16's or maybe 1/4. Are these the pipe you referred to earlier? At the front the pipe back into the head is 10 mm i would be really grateful for your opinion here regards simon
  7. Gentlemen, As an update, I have now fitted a Stromberg 97, which was relatively straightforward. On top of that we have fixed a charging issue and replaced a faulty fan seems there is always a list of stuff that needs doing! Anyway, its early days, still shaking down the carb, and I've only done a handful of miles, but the results seem very good. Easy to set up, more power, no choke needed (except for starting) smooth acceleration, big decrease in smoke from the exhaust. I'm hopefully going to give it a longer run over the weekend an see where we are Regards
  8. But also mean I needed to run with a lot of choke to get a mixture that would burn... So I have a fix involving a stromberg. I'm going to try that and see how it runs. Then maybe I'll be able to put some proper miles on her and shake the rest down
  9. I think I may have found the problem......... I finally took i all to bits and found a chunk of the casting held on by sealant, which had been painted over! Do you think this would impair running? Looks like plan B simon
  10. New Champion D16's fitted today.. Breather pipe removed and inspected. This just has baffles in it and thats all do I find the other screen? It did start well and the choke was turned off pretty quick even though I was only running it in the garage...
  11. Bob, The heat riser is not connecting the carb to the exhaust. To my knowledge its never been present. I've done 35 miles in her today and I've been out on about five short trips over the last two weeks, trying stuff out. I do think she has improved. I drove today with no choke on!!! Still got smoke though. Had her up to neary 60 mph in one burst just to see if the carb spat etc but she was fine. I do have a low speed front wobble now, but I put some more air in the tyres to lighten the steering so it could be that. the plugs were all wet and black when I took them out on Friday, plenty of oil in the plug recesses also. I'll check them again tomorrow Regards Simon
  12. Thanks for all your replies. Bob, those last two are the kind of things I suspect are causing me a problem as everything else seems relativly ok.... What do you think to the compression test results? Simon
  13. Gentlemen, Its been a long time since I was on....other cars to play with! Meanwhile back on the Buick, I still have a lot of blue smoke. I have just checked the compression and I have 6 cylinders at 100psi (as close as we can read), number 2 at 90 and number 3 at 95. I'm not sure what they are supposed to be, but that seems fairly close. I still think I have carb issues, it seems to need a lot of choke for a fair few miles, and nearly always needs some choke on. We bought and fitted a repair kit, but have never worked on a Marvel before so we cant be sure of what we've done. can anyone shed and specific Buick light on this? we've tried/considered all the standard tyope issues that you might expect, but wondered if theres anything specific to this model Many thanks simon
  14. Thanks very much for your comments....In that case what would be the coerrect compression to have, and what sort of tolerance is acceptable? Thanks
  15. Gentlemen, my series 50 is puffing a deal of black smoke and I'm getting to the stage of having to face a pistons and rings type job. Can anyone help me with whats available in that area, also problems to expect, liners, dimensions etc Thanks Simon