27donb

Sometimes sharing pictures is one of the best ways we all have of learning and sharing information. I search and save as much Buick information (1923-1928) as I can, for future reference. I never mean any disrespect, in sharing someone else's pictures or content. This car is a wealth of detail. The are two videos I uploaded at the end of all the pictures that were on Youtube. I hope everyone can play them. I believe this car started for sale over 70k. Now, as Larry said, it is down in the 35k range. It is beautiful! But the market in my opinion for these cars is so low now because everyone wants muscle cars and driving slow is out of fashion. I wish I had the funds to buy it. I wish the seller the best of luck, it is an awersome car! http://topclassiccarsforsale.com/buick/206100-1924-buick-model-55-sports-touring-automobile.html 1924 Model 55 Sports Touring Features Version 4.mp4 How To Start a 1924 Buick Model 55 Sports Touring Version 3.mp4

Wow those pictures are keepers, thanks Hugh!

Although you are probably done with the heavy blasting, you might consider putting a fan next to the pump and motor, to keep air blowing on it to help keep it cool. That is the method I have been using for over 30 years to keep a single stage aluminum pump craftsman 30 gallon compressor alive, and I have a small sandblast booth. I usually sandblast for about 10-15 minutes at a time, and then work on another project for the same amount of time to let everything cool down. Being air cooled, the compressor pump benefits from another fan blowing air on it to aid in cooling, even when it is not running. Never had an issue!

I stopped using POR15. I used it on an autobody repair following all directions, topcoated it while it was tacky as instructed, and it never cured. I complete stripped and prepared the back of a truck bumper following all prep directions, and it pealed off in a sheet. There have been forums where Volkswagen Beetle enthusiasts prepared and treated the floor pans with POR, and it lifted off in a sheet the shape of the floor pan. For me, the performance did not match the price. Rustoleum paint seems to stand up better.

The model 24-55 had the large sun visor I believe. The model 24-45 did not.

Terry, I agree, once and a great while luck goes my way! As far as I know it was not from Fred, I'm sure he would have mentioned it when he saw my ship to address. Don

So true! After struggling to loosen my 27 Buick Steering wheel, I stumbled on this puller that looks like it was made for the job. 2 bids, $21.02 to my door, Thank you!

I had forgotten the drastic bend on the Standard Series cars, in comparison to the Master Series. That might be harder to achieve using my torch and socket method...

That is a great observation Hugh. And that is one reason I really like it when pictures are shared. So much detail can be revealed, and a lot can be learned. I agree with the plated steering tube as original. Additionally, on the dash it can be seen that the choke and carb heat control plate background, should match the gauge background, as shown by this original dash. This is another detail I have yet to correct on my 54CC as I have to take a gauge face plate to the painter and have the paint matched, to be able to paint the background on the choke/carb plate. My to-do list is never ending!

Thanks Hugh, I used Eastwoods Manifold Paint. It's lasted for years, I just touch it up from time to time.

This project is 60+ years in the making for my 27-45CC. Back in the 1950's a mechanic disabled and removed part of the carburetor heat control system. Later, I blocked the exhaust heat supply to the manifold, and I gutted the exhaust valve and plugged the tube holes but left the shaft in place to appear original from the outside. The carb heat control is now completely non functional, so I no longer have to worry about burning out the intake tube in the manifold, or damaging the manifold itself. There are no drivablitly problems as a result of this, but I drive in 50 degree + weather only. This past week, I was finally able to put it back to LOOK like original . I still have to add the linkage. Of course with those with sharp eyes, my carburetor is not original either... How do you think it looks? It was not difficult. I had some pipe with the correct OD. After sandblasting it, I cut it to length and left it just a little long. I mounted a long socket in a vise, that the pipe would slide over, to keep the end from kinking. I heated up the pipe with a torch, and used another socket with an extension in the other end to bend it. Then I flipped it over, heated it again, and bent it again using the same method so the ends were pointing in the same direction again, but now, offset. All by eye, and it fits fine in my opinion. Wire brush, paint, install.

20w-50 in my 27-25 and 27-54CC engines with no issues.

Thank you for sharing these pictures, those are absolutely beautiful interiors. Great details. That snake skin or alligator interior is incredible, a truly high end car!

My 24-45 has a plated hand brake lever, and black painted shift lever. I believe that to be correct. As shown above, the 24-55 had a plated shift lever. That makes sense, the higher the model number, the more expensive, and more ornate and trimmed out the cars were. Kinda. My reprint 1927 shop manual actually lists the steering column tube diameter for Master and Standard, and that the Standard column was black and the Master column was plated. My 27-25 and 27-54CC shift levers are both plated, and I believe that to be correct. As the 20's went on, again, the more brightwork there seems to be. If a part is painted, it may have been painted only because the original plating failed over time and it was easier to paint it than to replate it. If you remove some of the paint on your gearshift lever, maybe you can confirm if there is plating under it or not.

Correct. The Carters are excellent replacement carbs, far less finicky than the original Marvel.

I have updraft Carter BB1's on both 27's.

So true! I enjoy the reliability of the electric fuel pump on my 27, however I found if the engine doesn't start right away, that pump just keeps pumping, and I end up with an air cleaner full of dripping gas as you did. So I added an under dash toggle switch for the pump. I prime the carb, and then shut it off and start it on the fuel in the bowl Once running, I turn the pump back on. Much better results this way. On my 27's, after priming the carb, I pump the throttle twice, press the starter to spin the engine, and after a couple of revolutions pull out the choke. As soon as it pops, I push in the choke and of course release the starter. To keep it running I find the happy place of the choke knob, depending on which car it is.

20w-50 For the amount of mileage I put on the Buick(s), synthetic doesn't make sense economically. Synthetic is made to go and last for so many more miles than conventional, if I changed it as often as I do conventional it would be a waste of money, and if I left it in for the recommended miles it would never get changed.

While I'm sorry you had such a trying experience, I love the story. It illustrates perfectly how the simplest of things can cause a setback, that can carry on for 25 years. Buicks are heavy. Brakes heat up, and springs can be weakened by this heat. If they are available, it's cheap insurance to replace old parts like that with modern new springs. The clutch in my 27-54CC stuck one day before going out for breakfast. That was July 2013. I am still working on it (it spawned a host of other projects on the car) and I am trying to avoid having it become a long hiatus as you describe also. .

Thanks for the help and response Larry! PM sent.

My 1924 Buick distributor gear is razor thin. I have another gear from a later distributor. I removed the distributor from the housing, but noticed, I have no adjustment cap, or adjustment bolt. A previous owner apparently pinned the worn out gear to the shaft. I would like to go back to the original style of the tapered adjusting bolt, so I can loosen it and adjust the rotor position. But it now appears I need another distributor, or at least another unmolested distributor shaft. Any ideas?

I am interested as well. Having received no response from my inquiry and my want list, I was assuming he had none of the parts I was looking for...

I really love how shiny the chassis is!

This thread has inspired me to get into my 24-45 starter generator. The generator commutator is very dark and worn, so I removed it to turn it and clean up the starter one as well with emery cloth. Before I began, the generator motored on the bench and the starter seemed to spin strong too. 1 - My question is about the ratcheting clutch. It seemed fine on the bench, but I had trouble getting it off the shaft and when it was off, it was stuck. I got it freed up, but my question is about the spring loaded plungers. I see two of them, but they seem to have a flat top with a hole in them? Am I missing some parts, or is that all that is supposed to be there. Is there supposed to be a check ball or something along with the plunger? I can get the clutch out of the gear, but I cannot disassemble the clutch itself. When I reinstalled the clutch and gear on a spare S/G shaft, it rotates freely and quietly in one direction, and locks up in the other, so that seems normal. Just don't want to get it all on the car, and then find out there should be check balls or something else in the clutch, that may have dropped out on the floor... 2 - In the wiring diagram, one wire goes from the ignition switch to one motoring terminal, the other motoring terminal gets it's 6 volts from the coil + terminal. During bench testing, I just gave 6 volts to both motoring terminals and it worked. Why does the second motoring terminal have to be connected to the coil +? Couldn't both motoring terminals just get their 6 volts from the ignition switch?

The motometer never lets me down.