Daves1940Buick56S

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About Daves1940Buick56S

  • Rank
    Buick Team '40 Member
  • Birthday 06/10/1953

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  • Website URL
    http://www.dbstovall.com

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Rockville, MD
  • Interests:
    Old cars (of course!)
    Engineering (retired after 30+ yrs)
    Horology (that's antique clocks to you)
    Photography
    History and History of Technology

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  1. There were a lot of cars painted in that scheme in the 80s/90s. Lots of Model A's. Larry D calls it "coffee 2 creams." My 1940 56S is painted just like that. Not original, sure, but it all depends on what you are going to do with the car. If you want it judged you will lose some points. My 1940 is strictly my fun car so I don't care about that. In any event, it's your car - keep it or change it, totally up to you. I guarantee you it will be appreciated by us and others either way. Cheers, Dave
  2. Matt: You are going to get a lot of responses and probably some debate. One of your questions - the valve, as designed anyhow, does not fully close. There will be a small area visible around the seat where a small amount of coolant can go thru. Someone on here calculated it to be about equivalent to a 1/4" hole. I took out the plunger part and replaced it with an appropriately sized freeze plug with a 1/4" hole thru the center of the plug. Cheers, Dave
  3. Yeah I know. The wire I referred to above that my friend has is like you described. On motorcycles the connection to the fuel injectors has to withstand constant movement. I think it is basically the same. Cheers Dave
  4. Aaaand...you all were correct 100%. Bad capacitor (condenser). My analog analyzer has a position that shunts in another one and when I switched it in everything smoothed out. Also point resistance up so it likely took the points with it. In 50 years of driving with about half of that on the standard ignition I have never had a capacitor fail. So maybe this is the Condenser of Shame? Anyhow, I know I have at least 2 or 3 unused point sets but I'll be damned if I can find them right now. I do have a NOS ACDelco condenser so I put that in and cleaned and burnished the old points. I also replaced the lead to the feedthru (the old one was pretty chewed up). I know standard wiring only lasts so long there but a friend has some of the hi-flex wire used on motorcycle fuel injector to wiring harness and I will replace when I put the new points in when the weather warms up more. It'll be fine for around town this winter. Cheers, Dave
  5. And the answer is...coming tomorrow! Weather today not conducive.
  6. Well, it finally happened. Breakdown on the road. I was returning home after having the front shocks, motor mounts and clutch replaced on my 1940 56S. About 60 miles from the mechanic's shop to my house. Everything was truly great at first. The car rode better than it ever has and was very smooooth. It just wanted to go 55 to 60 mph and the speed kept creeping up if I didn't pay attention. And I finally got a properly functioning clutch as well (I will do a separate thread on that later). A little more than halfway home, I started getting intermittant engine stuttering - what felt like either vapor lock or some kind of fuel starvation, although I wasn't getting the backfiring thru the carb. In fact, it seemed to be thru the exhaust, more like afterfire. It slowly got worse, and was especially bad trying to pull away from a traffic lite. It still was idling ok, but after a while even that was bad - intermittant 5+ inches vacuum drop. Finally, about 5 miles from home, it got so bad that I felt I could do other damage by proceeding further. So I stopped and called for the Tow of Shame. While I was waiting I tried a few things. Remove fuel tank cap - no change. Got elec boost pump working (it was not on the trip) - no change. Fuel pressure good. The clear gas filter before the carb was not conclusive regarding fuel flow, just confusing. I pulled the plug on the side of the bowl and fuel looked at proper level. I jiggled the floats and fuel appears to be flowing fine. I had no instruments with me to check ignition. The backfiring was not terrible but was definitely thru the exhaust. So Fri I am going to start with a fuel flow capacity test, but at this point I am thinking ignition capacitor. Thoughts? Cheers, Dave
  7. Depends on how you want to use it. If just for pre-start priming and use in vapor lock conditions like a long hill climb like I do, I would just mount a switch near the driver and just get the power from the B term of the horn relay on the firewall. Don't forget to fuse it as well, 10A should be plenty. If you want it to run continuously, you probably want some kind of auto shutoff to keep fuel from spewing out in case of a serious accident. Some have used an oil pressure switch and they can chime in here. Cheers, Dave
  8. Matt: I have been delinquent in getting to this but should start on it soon. My apologies. Cheers, Dave
  9. No pics, but this is from the parts manual. Springs are item D. Don't worry about the cups, I found 4 NOS ones on fleaBay. Cheers, Dave
  10. Title says it. Also would like to find bearing cups 1305264. Also, does anybody have the dimensions on this spring? Would like to compare to spring 1310219 which fits 1939/1940. Cheers, Dave
  11. Neil: I went thru this as well as few years ago. I did manage to get the plug out without removing the manifolds (not at all a pleasant job), and used the expanding rubber replacement. It is still on there several years later. In the end I did have to take off the manifold and head for a valve and ring job, but that was almost a year later. Cheers, Dave
  12. 114 First St Havre MT today. There is also another old dealer across the street. Automobile row!
  13. I looked at their website and some other sites. Just be aware that their marketing specs are extremely optimistic IMO. At this point they have yet to build a prototype. Production target for 2020 is 10 vehicles and for 2021 is 100 vehicles. According to their own info, they want to set up their own proprietary charging stations to achieve the 15 min rate. To achieve that rate on the 300 mi battery (125 kWh per their spec) requires almost a half megawatt input rate for an almost depleted battery, excluding inefficiencies. No specs on energy storage for the larger 400 and 500 mile batteries, but assuming straight scaling the rate would be almost a megawatt for the largest battery. This is a lot, pretty much requiring its own substation. An expensive approach to say the least, and not even considering if they can develop a battery to sustain that input rate. I would think that they will stick with the standard available 160 kW rate for quite a while, assuming they stay around. I imagine all of their near-term focus will be just on getting the first trucks built, let alone proprietary charging stations.