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About Daves1940Buick56S

  • Rank
    Buick Team '40 Member
  • Birthday 06/10/1953

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Rockville, MD
  • Interests:
    Old cars (of course!)
    Engineering (retired after 30+ yrs)
    Horology (that's antique clocks to you)
    History and History of Technology

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  1. On mine no plate under the driver's seat, just a stamping in the floor. Interesting that mine had no factory heater as it was built at Linden. The underdash heater that was in the car is a Hupp aftermarket from the 1950s judging by the gold hammertone finish. I stripped it and redid in black crackle to look more authentic to 1940. I also painted the floor black gloss after 3 coats of rust converter. Am in process of putting down insulating material to be followed by the brown custom rubber mat. I should be done with this early next week. Cheers, Dave
  2. Oh, duh on me!! Of course! I just don't think about the factory heater on that car since I have an underdash unit. Why are the delete plates so rare? One thing that is odd about it - three of the screws are in keyed holes and one is at the edge. So to remove it all you have to do is loosen the screws a bit and slide the plate to the outside and out. No loose screws to fumble with. I guess this is to keep from the dealer having to pull the seat to add a factory heater? Cheers, Dave
  3. I am working on derusting and sealing the floor and when I pulled the seat out (oof!) I found that there is an access panel under there. It appears to be for an under floor battery. Did any C body in 1940 have the battery in that location? Currently it accesses nothing. Any ideas? Cheers, Dave
  4. Terry: If it's AC you are correct. We can calculate "skin depth" as a function of frequency. The higher the freq, the closer it all is to the surface. DC, though, does use the whole conductor. In a copper line the skin depth is about 8.5 mm at 60 Hz. In high power RF transmitters at fixed stations, the transmission line is sometimes just a hardline consisting of 2 concentric copper pipes with inner supports to maintain a constant impedance. No point in using expensive solid center conductor since the RF only rides the surface. Cheers, Dave
  5. Don't cut! There is a fairly large opening with the cover held on by 6 screws. Just lift up the carpet or mat and you will see it. Once open you can pull off the top of the trans.
  6. Well, I kinda doubt it, in my remaining lifetime anyhow. But I don't know what you mean by "numbered," if you are talking 30 or 40 years, maybe. The pollution from our lightly driven and low total number of cars is really miniscule in the larger scheme of things. As far as fuel availability, if I start talking serious Physics it will go political and that was not my intent as the OP. Collector cars have been consigned to the dustbin a few times in the past and yet we soldier on...
  7. Agree. This will be a process so will want to start with one running well. It will probably take a year or so to gather all of the parts so he will have the "hopped up" version for his Senior year. One thing I found out since I posted this is the Buick 350/350 THM is a pretty straight drop in. And easier to find than a 401/425. Cheers, Dave
  8. My young assistant has turned 15 and has turned his thoughts to getting "something fast" from the mid to late 60s up to about 1972. Of course all of his first choices are the same cars everybody else wants - GTO, SS Chevelle, Skylark GS, etc - and well out of his price range. He doesn't want a project car since he knows from working with me that his High School days would likely be long behind him before it's done. He will have about 15 grand to spend he thinks. We have been perusing the ads. One solution might be a 66 or 67 Riv if we can get one in good enough condition. But I was
  9. Even though I am *not* interested in getting another Buick (at this time!), I have been following Hemmings and Ebay pretty closely for the last 3 or 4 years to see "what is out there." In the last 3 weeks or so, it seems that a lot of cars are being put out there. For example, on Hemmings today, over a half dozen 53 Skylarks, and several 54s as well. And lots of pre-War cars, including 3 1936 Buick 3 window coupes. Is this a COVID effect? I figured that if the economic slowdown went on long enough that folks would need to dispose of cars to get some money. It could also be with mor
  10. I put the 8.20-15 DBs on my 1940 and, although a tight fit, no rubbing. They look good too with the widest WW. Don't know what the fit would be on the '54.
  11. The 1950 manual is also incredibly good. I should add that this one is the last to cover the 248 engine as in '51 it was the 263. Not much difference though.
  12. Hopefully you all will pardon a Buick guy over here! (Although I did grow up with a 23rd Series Eight as the family car...) I have always been fascinated with the instrument lights on these, with the fluorescent effect. This idea was adapted from the WW2 planes with the same setup on the instrument lights for night flying. This was accomplished, I know now, by using thin Wood's glass dome filters over the standard 55 bulbs. Apparently these filters were very fragile and most did not make it to the present day. Also, apparently the phosphorescence on the indicators and numbers could
  13. >> If run on 6v, will a LED lamp setup for 12v not work at all, be dimmer, or perform exactly the same as on 12v power? I can answer this. It will work, but when the brakes are used the brightness increases very little over the running lights. Also not that much brighter than the original bulbs. Get the 6V ones, you'll thank me later. (Sorry, watching Monk reruns). Cheers, Dave
  14. Thanks, Shane, but I did locate and buy one 2 years ago. Almost perfect but I had to pay. It was a private sale and never advertised anywhere. But maybe someone will want this! Cheers, Dave
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