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About Daves1940Buick56S

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    Buick Team '40 Member
  • Birthday 06/10/1953

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  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Rockville, MD
  • Interests:
    Old cars (of course!)
    Engineering (retired after 30+ yrs)
    Horology (that's antique clocks to you)
    History and History of Technology

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  1. >> If run on 6v, will a LED lamp setup for 12v not work at all, be dimmer, or perform exactly the same as on 12v power? I can answer this. It will work, but when the brakes are used the brightness increases very little over the running lights. Also not that much brighter than the original bulbs. Get the 6V ones, you'll thank me later. (Sorry, watching Monk reruns). Cheers, Dave
  2. Thanks, Shane, but I did locate and buy one 2 years ago. Almost perfect but I had to pay. It was a private sale and never advertised anywhere. But maybe someone will want this! Cheers, Dave
  3. There was a request for lube recommendations on one of these a while back, and rather than hijack that I thought I would make a separate thread for bookmark purposes. This is a quick set of instructions for bringing one of these back to life. This is for a heater fan, the defroster motors are similar but smaller. 1. Pull off fan blade (should be a setscrew) and remove fan motor from shroud. 2. Remove the 2 nuts and washers on the front (shaft) side. 3. Ease the front shell off by sliding over the shaft. If lots of corrosion is present on the shaft, lightly sand and put a bit of light oil on to facilitate removal. 4. Remove the 2 small nuts that are up against the phenolic brush board. 5. Remove the 2 screws and carefully remove the 2 brass spacers. 6. Remove the field coil/brush and rotor together from the back shell, feeding the wire through as necessary. 7. Using toothpicks or similar, work the brushes back and remove rotor out the rear of the field assy. 8. Remove all washers from the rotor. Clean the rotor/commutator and field assy with CRC QD cleaner or equivalent 9. Examine the commutator. The QD cleaner may be sufficient. If not, chuck the rotor into a drill and lightly sand with 1000 grit sandpaper (not emery). 10. Using a fine needle, carefully clean out the small gaps between the commutator segments. Go over with QD one more time. 11. Examine the brushes. The should easily move in the brass slots with spring action evident. If they are gummed up there should be enough brush lead wire to carefully remove from the slots along with the springs. Clean out the slots with a Q-tip soaked in QD. Reassemble and check for proper operation. Note the brush position on the photo below. This is about right with relaxed springs. 12. Clean up the remainder of the parts with Brakleen or similar. 13. Soak the felts in the bushings in the front and back shells with light machine oil. 14. Reassemble in reverse order, making sure that the brushes don't get dinged up when inserting the rotor into the field assy. See pix below Entire motor assy Rotor and washers, commutator on right Closeup of brushes on phenolic
  4. Neil: I had the same issue on my 1940 248 but have removed it 3 times now so I know the tricks: 1. Put the car up on ramps. Also jack up the frame a bit on ea side and put jack stands in. You want max amount of height under the car. Use plenty of chocks and be safe! It is best to use a creeper and go in head first. 2. Set the engine so that cyl 1 and 2 are about the half way point. This places the crank throws appx parallel to the ground. 3. Drain the oil and pull out the dipstick so you don't get poked in the eye! 4. Remove the pan bolts on the back side between the pan and lower clutch housing. If it's been a while since any cleaning has been done on the pan it will probably be a mess back there. 5. Remove the 4 front pan bolts. There will be 4 holes in the crossmember to accomplish this. 6. The tricky part. The next 2 bolts towards the rear on each side are tough to do because of the crossmember. I found it worked well using 1/4 inch drive socket and universal to get enough angle and purchase on it. Mag inserts help as well. 7. Remove the remainder of the bolts, pry the pan loose, and lower and pull to the rear to clear the crossmember and throws. You have to kind of thread it around the oil pump and screen as well. I found it best to have my head at the rear of the engine so I could wrestle it towards me and out on the left side. You will likely come out filthy so be prepared. 8. Pound out the pan dimples while it's out. 9. Reverse order to reinstall! Heh. You want to keep the pan gasket from moving around. I use Permatex #2. Use a torque wrench set to 10 lb ft in order not to re-dimple the pan. BTW I cannot raise the engine easily. I have rear motormounts on both of my cars so those would have to be undone as well. So the above was accomplished in normal configuration. Cheers Dave
  5. Maybe it's not correct, but the maple ball looks cool! You can tell people that the "gearshift" was made for folks with really, really long arms!
  6. So the window installs from the outside and not from the inside like the windshields? Do you have to use the string method to install? Cheers, Dave
  7. I am in the process of replacing the door windows and seals (windshield already done) and while I have all of the garnish moldings out for woodgraining I was wondering about the fixed quarter windows. The seals on the inside are good but on the outside they are hard and starting to crack. Glass is OK. How do you pop them out? I have looked but cannot see any more screws. BTW the rear seals and glass are good all around, thank goodness. Cheers, Dave
  8. Today I took a piece of the paint chip and put it in acetone. I though for sure that would dissolve it. Nope! I left it in for several hrs and nothing. Definitely urethane? One thing I have not done is to try and type of cleaner wax, I just used straight wax after I got it. I will try it on a hidden area and see if any color appears on the rag. If not - maybe it's clear coat?
  9. From the brochures I have managed to look at, this is correct. The plastic piece is on the Series 40.
  10. Sorry for the lousy pics, but is this door garnish molding correct for a 1938 66S? No plastic trim piece at the center.
  11. All: My 1938 66S has a spotlite. This was not original to the car and was added sometime after 1979. I would like to remove it if I can get the holes patched properly. The hole in the windshield garnish molding can be filles when I get it re-woodgrained next month. The body is another question. Pic attached. I am not sure what the paint is. I have a chip of it (it came from the white spot in the pic), it is 0.01" thick. It does not dissolve or deform in any way in lacquer thinner. Maybe urethane? It looks so good I thought it might be lacquer but no. Assuming I can nail down the paint, do you think I can get the holes filled and this small area painted and have it look good? It is difficult to get a good photo as the body color is black.
  12. 1953. Brakes failed and a GG-1 goes into the concourse and thru the floor at Union Station, DC.
  13. Way to go Dave! Can't wait to see it! Cheers, Dave
  14. There were a lot of cars painted in that scheme in the 80s/90s. Lots of Model A's. Larry D calls it "coffee 2 creams." My 1940 56S is painted just like that. Not original, sure, but it all depends on what you are going to do with the car. If you want it judged you will lose some points. My 1940 is strictly my fun car so I don't care about that. In any event, it's your car - keep it or change it, totally up to you. I guarantee you it will be appreciated by us and others either way. Cheers, Dave