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Everything posted by Daves1940Buick56S

  1. Thanks for the replies! I do have StaLube 140 but it is GL-4. I have it in my 1940 with no issues, but that trans was completely overhauled with mostly new gears. I did find one example of 140 weight GL-1 that isn't only sold in 5 gal pails: https://www.amazon.com/Millers-Oils-Green-non-additive-bottle/dp/B06ZYGFXF4 So I will order this and try it out. On the not-so-good news front, I drove the 38 about 60 miles on Sat. It drove really well, but I do have an exhaust leak that got somewhat worse, as I expected. It almost sounds now like it may be under the hood, which woul
  2. I finally got the interior finished and have been driving it more. Now some of the more minor issues can be handled. 2 things I noticed: 1. After the trans is warm, I am getting "biting" on the 2nd and 3rd syncros as I shift in (especially on 3rd). Quiet when cold. Do I need heavier oil? I think I have 85W-90 in it now. 2. Sometimes when I let my foot off the gas I get soft popping out the exhaust. It did this on the old carb as well. Ideas? Cheers, Dave
  3. Very nice and welcome!
  4. I have taken apart 3 speedo heads from this era. It's a bit daunting but I also work on clocks, so some similarities. But I would look at the speed head *last.* If it were me doing this: 1. Inspect and lube inner cable. If any rough spots, replace. Sounds like you have done this. 2. Try and straighten out the kink. Using the unconnected trans end, put a variable electric drill on the cable and spin up and down in speed while "massaging" the kink and see if any difference. If so that is your issue and you may have to replace the outer cable housing if you can't stra
  5. Peter: First....BWAH-HAHAHA! You are in for some fun! Second. Neil is right on. And I can tell you that seat is *heavy,* I did it this summer with myself and one other person, but 3 people might be better. I did my panel without removing the seat, but probably will not do it that way if I have to go in there again. One additional suggestion: pull the steering wheel, it gets in the way. And cover up the steering column or it'll get marked up. And yes, that top left stud is a witch! Since I was repairing/rebuilding my wiring anyway I added extensions on all ap
  6. Cool. And with your open plan, you could easily add later if you want. Cheers, Dave
  7. Earl: Since the ceiling is open, how about a sprinkler system? That would answer the fire issue. Or did I miss that and you already put it in or are planning to? Cheers, Dave
  8. Well I just got a flag about political posts. Let me be clear: this is not political, I don't care about how this is implemented, or not. What I am talking about is physics and engineering. Period.
  9. Understand. First, I was talking about power required on fast charge. Spreading it out does mitigate that like I pointed out. And as far as the transpo of fuel, of course, but I was focusing on the increased load on the grid. Most of what you mentioned doesn't impact that. Shifting to EV will reduce the energy required but a lot of that is off-grid. At least some refineries generate their own power, for example.
  10. Good question. The issue is that suddenly you are adding a 1 MW load. And then in 20 min it goes away. The housing developments etc have the same energy requirement but spread out in time. It's the instantaneous power not the energy.
  11. All good points, but most people don't understand anything about electrical power generation beyond the sockets in their walls. For those that deal with these issues, some of the numbers you quoted should cause concern. A 250kW additional power load, even if for only 15 or 20 mins, will be noticed back at the gen plant directly on that branch. And plug in 4 vehicles at once and you will really create a bump! Consider that our nearest plant here in DC is at Dickerson and is currently totals a little over 300 MW when adding in the adjacent cogeneration facility. A sudden load of 1/300 of the tot
  12. Interesting. Lou Wildt, quoted in the article, was one of the owners of my '38! Perhaps he redid the dash woodgraining and got rid of the chevron. My interior was originally tan mohair and when the interior was redone it was changed to gray Bedford cord. Perhaps he redid the dash then although it was pretty difficult to get it out which made me think it had not been removed since the car was built.
  13. Ok, I do remember seeing pics of this before. I am kinda, no actually very glad mine wasn't like that, I like the Butt Walnut in which I redid mine. Original panel was like Matt's, kind of straight grain. I also have an extra dash with a amateur-applied straight grain, not real good. I finished installing the clock today. All done but the rear view mirror. Cheers, Dave
  14. Do you have any pics of the chevron pattern? Thanks
  15. Thanks all! After installing the garnish moldings and the lock buttons I can see no room for any kind of grommet. Don't know what the material was that crumbled off the hole edges. After relooking at the mirror it is metal - magnets don't stick to plastic! The color looks to closely match the gauge panel color. The is no other paint underneath so it was either painted this color originally or the woodgrain was stripped off at some point. So I went ahead and filled the cracks with JB Weld and will sand and repaint. At some point I will call Dave T for the proper replacement.
  16. I am trying to wrap up putting the dash and garnish moldings back in my car. I am getting down to the last couple of items and I have 2 issues: 1. The small grommets on the lock button openings on the door garnish moldings need replacing as the old ones crumbled off before I sent out the moldings to be woodgrained. I took a look at standard sized grommets and no go - the diameter difference between the buttons and the opening is pretty small. Any ideas? 2. My interior rear view mirror is plastic bodied and has cracks. I can probably fill, sand, and paint but - is this t
  17. Thanks to you both! Gary I did look at your posts first since they are the "bible" of 37/38 rebuilds. But I was still unclear on how the how the sub-body worked with the adjusters. I will look at the Torque Tube article next. Probably won't get to this until after Xmas. I steel-wooled up the left door/window handles today, right side done and on. Putting the trim back on the garnish moldings tomorrow, hopefully reinstall by the weekend, reattach the rear view mirror and the clock, then the interior will be complete! UPDATE: Yes, the Torque Tube article is very helpful. Should be en
  18. Last Fall I found out that the vertical adjustment on the left headlight is non-functional. The beam just points up to signal the Space Station. So far no answer. I have been tied up getting the interior back together (dash and new glass) but that work is almost finished (about 6 months later than planned!). So I will be looking at this soon as weather here intermittently permits. I went back and looked at Gary's posts on his '37, and what I could glean out of the Shop Manual illustrations and the Parts Manuals that I have, but I think I need more info to do this. I think what I ne
  19. Matt: Yes, AMG. Brain fart and typo on my part. Wait, don't you call one of your kids Captain Pedantic lol? Anyhow, *I* am not buying this car. My 15-soon-to-be-16-year-old "assistant"/mentee is. But he is undoubtedly looking to me for help when it does break. I have been trying to tell him that working on a car like that is decidedly different and more difficult/expensive than working on pre-1970 iron. Surprisingly, his Dad seems to be ok with this car idea. If I were his father I would say "no way" since putting 500 HP in the hands of a 16 year old driver is like giving them a l
  20. I hope you all don't mind a Buick pre-war guy asking a question here. My young assistant is just getting his license and looking for a car. He was leaning towards some late '60s American iron, but lately has become enamored of the 2004-2005 MB E 55 AGM. Mainly due to 500 HP and that you can get them for under $14k (with over 150k miles!). Obviously I have concerns with a young driver and that much power, but besides that - MB used to be money pits when they got older. Is this still true? Can a "backyard mechanic" actually work on these or is it pretty much dealer only? I seem to recall that MB
  21. In the photo is Queen Elizabeth, George VI's wife, Princess Elizabeth's mother. She was the Queen until he died and then became the Queen Mother.
  22. Sorry for the delay. The structure from the top down is the pot metal shell with insert red lenses held by 2 brackets which is in turn held to the shell by screws. From the 2 brackets are 4 studs which are pressed into the bracket. This is a failure point as the studs can be twisted loose from the bracket. Another failure point is the castings with the threaded holes on the shell. And of course where the wings of the shell attach. Skill using JB Weld is useful here. So the shell assembly with the 4 studs pointing down is inserted thru a gasket into the corresponding hol
  23. Daytona Beach! And a nice 1949 56S looks about to run over 4 Sweet Young Things...
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