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Everything posted by Daves1940Buick56S

  1. Another thing, if you are worried about the starting fluid getting to the cylinders try taking out the plugs and shooting some (not a lot!) in there and replacing. It should at least fire. Cheers, Dave
  2. John, Most auto parts stores sell a neat gadget that enables you to get a rough idea of the spark voltage. It goes between the plug wire and ground (or the coil HV output and ground). You can quickly see what the spark quality is. Not as good as an oscope but much cheaper. Advice - adjust the screw when not cranking (or running) the engine or you will get gigged. https://www.amazon.com/OriGlam-Adjustable-Ignition-Circuit-Diagnostic/dp/B06X9RC3PF?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-ffhp-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B06X9RC3PF Cheers, Dave
  3. Do I see a rubber fuel line over the stove tube? Is that the way it was originally? Cheers, Dave
  4. Although this may not be the problem, to test the vac advance pick up one of the MityVac kits and do the following: 1. Disconnect the vac advance line at the distributor and remove the dist cap 2. The kit should have several tapered adapters. Find the one that fits tightly into the advance unit and hook it up to the pump, with the pump set to VAC 3. Holding the adapter into the advance unit with one hand, pump with the other and watch the vac gauge on the pump 4. The breaker plate should start to move when the vac reaches about 6 or 7 inches Hg. Maximum movement occurs at about 14 inches. 5. Check that the advance can hold vacuum without any or minimal leakdown. 6. If no plate movement occurs but vacuum can be obtained and held, unhook advance arm from plate and check for free breaker plate movement. If plate does not move freely solve the issue and retest. If vacuum cannot be obtained and/or held, unit is bad. If vacuum is good but arm does not move properly according to the above or sticks or is sluggish, unit is bad. There are still enough of these units floating around and vendors willing to rebuild that it's not worth it to put up with a bad one. Cheers, Dave
  5. Tried to fix it up, not easy due to crossed curves on the faded image
  6. Daytona! North turn going off the beach and onto the road portion. 1 lap was about 4 miles. Lots of wrecks at this location. My grandfather assisted Bill France cosponsoring a couple of the pre-war races there. I have a 16mm color film of the 1940 race.
  7. Peter you won 3rd prize in our group! I took 2nd and Bill (next to me) took 1st.
  8. Also I was researching the '38 dash to try to see if/how I can safely clean up the woodgraining. Like Matt said, the manual clearly states the dash woodgraining is a transfer decal that is put on before the dash is stamped with clear lacquer sprayed on after. I am wondering how the stamping did not stretch the decal in a way that would be visible but that is what they stated. If that is so, if decals were used on the 40/41 instrument and glovebox panels I would bet it would be done in the same manner, i.e. put on before stamping. Cheers, Dave
  9. Just to muddy things up more....on my 1940 56S the panel is definitely DyNoc. It has started to peel down on the bottom edge and you can clearly see that where it has peeled off it is just smooth metal. Bits of plastic are still hanging at the edges of the peeled area so it easy to see it's DyNoc or some other type of decal. Fortunately it cannot be easily seen by the driver or those outside the car! This is not to say anything about other cars but this is what mine has. Eventually I will send the panel and glovebox door to Doug.... Cheers, Dave
  10. And you could take it one step further by hooking the parking light switch output to the 2 front signal light normally closed terminals. Cheers, Dave
  11. Matt, you gave me an idea. I have an old aftermarket turn signal apparatus on the steering column left side. I could attach a pushbutton switch on the underside where it cannot be seen. This would lead to a small box behind the dash with a 555 timer and relay to the backup light. And I set the 555 so when you push the button the light stays on for 15 secs or so and goes out. No more forgetting to turn it off! Cheers, Dave
  12. I am getting all of the old stuff from Matt as well as the Torque Tubes. I am going to host on the buickprewar.org site, probably get it on there after OKC. Hopefully I can get Peter to relist the site on a sticky. Cheers, Dave
  13. I have an accessory back up light on my '38 66S that looks exactly like the one in Matt's post. When I first saw it I thought "50s junk" but on closer inspection discovered it is a Guide. Matt do you know the provenance on these - what years they were available? Cheers, Dave
  14. Matt, I can host the other docs on the Buick PreWar website. At this time I am paying the yearly charge and we have lots of space. Cheers, Dave
  15. There was a lot of other stuff on there as well such as copies of the Radio manuals and lots of other documentation. Did you bring that over as well? And is the Index for the Torque Tube there also? Cheers, Dave
  16. Yup, I had one too in High School. Piece of junk, and so were the wipers! At a stop light a cloud of smoke would envelop the car. Kept the mosquitoes away, though. Cheers, Dave
  17. While Peter is imbibing, perhaps I can shed a bit more light. Matt - the rear carb definitely has an idle circuit, including 2 needle valves and 2 low speed jets. His flapper assembly has no flapper. It is missing. I was afraid of this when I saw the counterweight was missing. He is working to get one from Greg Johnson. But your suggestion to plug the rear fuel line is good, and maybe an even better idea is to remove the rear carb completely and plug the manifold opening, like they did in WW2 to try to save on gas. Neil, we know they are in parallel, but are assuming that one of the carbs dumping fuel would likely affect the closer cylinders more. In theory anyhow lol! Cheers, Dave
  18. I think Peter is OK for now on the exhaust bypass. Both weights were in the correct 2 o'clock position. The 2 longer tubes in your pic are the low speed jets. They are spec'd to a 65 drill. This is at the lower pinched part. You also have the bypass and economizer ports to check in the carb body, the spec should be on the sheets I sent you. So what position is the damper valve in, does it move freely? Cheers, Dave
  19. I have an air flow meter that I use to balance the SU's on my TR3. I can make up an adapter for the larger carb. Good suggestion. After some mixture tuning, his vac gauge at idle shows readings close to 20 but periodically dropping 2 or 3 inches. Definitely missing or very weak combustion. Cylinder balance test showed very little RPM drop on rear 4 cylinders. This matches with what his plugs are showing. He is going to see what the damper position is. It looks right now like the rear carb is dumping in way too much fuel. Carbs are Carter WCDs by the way. Cheers, Dave
  20. You are welcome! One thing I noticed was the lack of the counterweight on the rear carb damper and according to the '42 shop manual it should be there. So that may be part of the problem. Cheers, Dave
  21. All good advice. I use 0.017 go, 0.018 no go on the valves, this is what the Shop Manual suggests when doing the old run-it-and-then-pull-off-the-valve-cover-real-quick-before-it-cools routine. On the vac gauge, the manifold connection should be tapped for 1/8 MIP unless someone has messed with it. It will probably have an elbow which goes to the vacuum steel line. If you run into problems PM me, I think you are only a few miles away. Cheers, Dave
  22. My 1938 66s has that. I replaced with the SS braided hose. As I recall (I did it last summer) the hose went from the master to a tee junction. One line went from the tee to the front and one to the back. Lying on my back it was an execrable job to remove/replace the master. I have to get it relined and I am paying someone to do the R/R on a lift! Cheers, Dave
  23. If you need any transmission parts Northwest Transmission is only about 30 miles from you. Go out 32 to US 62 near Winchester.