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Business_As_Usual

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  1. I drilled a 5/16 inch hole in the center of the plug. I’ve read that some drill a 1/4 “ hole. I really don’t think a 1/16th of an inch could make any noticeable difference. I cleaned the bolt holes in the block really good before mounting the pump and the thermostat housing. Also used tight fitting brass washers in place of lock washers. I also used thread seal on the bolts account they enter the water jacket.
  2. Put a frost plug in the thermostat housing today. While drilling the hole, the plug came loose. After drilling the hole, tapped it back in using a socket but was able to push it out with a pencil. Installed again with a few good blows with a hammer and socket, managed to twist it a little and now seems to be snugged in. I was wondering if I should try a few spots of JB Weld or something to make sure it doesn’t fall out. It is a 1 1/2 inch frost plug.
  3. Your replies came just in time. Doing the job tomorrow. Thanks!
  4. Thanks for the quick responses. The hose is a 1 7/8” bypass hose and it fits snugger on the pump than on the thermostat housing. I like the tape idea, I will look around for some. I know most say put the hoses on dry, but I cringe to think I would have to pull the thermostat housing to remove the bypass hose to seal up a leak later. I was planning to use permatex gasket sealer on the gaskets attaching both to the block.
  5. Installing water pump and thermostat housing soon. The bypass hose fits snug on the water pump but not snug on the thermostat housing. The connections are not badly pitted or anything like that, but I think I would like to put a sealer on them. Permatex aviation gasket maker, indianhead, or permatex RTV? I’m probably not going to use anything on the radiator connections. What is the best sealer to use and which one allows the best ease of removal when you want to take a hose off? Thanks for any input, Tom
  6. Thanks for your reply and the diagram. The nut isn’t even a lock nut. Another thing I will be keeping an eye on. Have a great day and thanks again.
  7. Hi everyone, I have a 40’ Buick Special model 46. I installed new rear shock links and connected the shock arm. My question is, should there be a washer between the nut and the shock arm? There wasn’t a washer when I disassembled it, but I’m probably not the first one to do so. There was not a washer included with the new shock links, but there were new nuts. Thanks for your input. Tom
  8. I centered the pitman arm on the sector shaft, measured its distance of travel in both directions and then torqued it to 100 lbs. My 1950 Buick shop manual made no mention of removing a washer when taking off the pitman arm, so I surmised there shouldn’t be one. My torque wrench only goes to 100 lbs., and the manual said 100 to 110 lbs, so that choice was easy to make. After equalizing the length of the tie rod end, the steering wheel is centered nicely. Job is done, and it went well.
  9. New to this forum, so thanks in advance for any help I may get. I have a 1940 Buick Special Business Coupe Mod 46. I am putting the pitman arm on tomorrow but realized when I took it off, there was not a washer under the lock washer and nut. Is there suppose to be? I was also wondering if there is a torque setting you guys use. I know torque settings are not in the manual, but how tight to make it as a rule of thumb. The manual refers to a reference mark on the sector shaft to determine center of travel. I cannot find it. I made a mark before taking the pitman arm off, and figure to put it back on in the same position. I sent the steering box out to Lares Corp and when I got it back found that they marked the middle of the movement. Their mark will be facing the drivers side of the vehicle when the pitman arm is pointing toward the front. The arm will be 45 degrees off from center. Should I turn the steering shaft until their mark faces the front of the vehicle and then put on the pitman arm? Either way the pitman arm will be facing a quarter turn from center travel. Thanks again, Tom
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