CatBird

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About CatBird

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  • Birthday 10/31/1943

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Atlanta
  • Interests:
    Car collecting and few others

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  1. We are bringing some of our cars. Hope to see you there, https://atlantaconcours.org/
  2. Don't know yet. It is in transit. Should be here in a few days. Trying to reach a few people who worked on it. Have talked with a few people who have dtiven it at the Bonham Auction and said it was very fast.
  3. Just purchased October 7 (not yet delivered) but am interested in history about Marmmon Speedsters.
  4. I want to buy a 18" to 20" monocle for our brass car to mount on our recent 1913 Marmon Speedster.
  5. Not that I care that much about judging points, but I have heard that you may not lose points for adding safety features. And if touring, might be a good idea. But I don't like the looks of disc brakes and for the most part (unless racing or mountains) don't see the need. If I were to add front brakes, they would be drums and would look like the rear.
  6. I completely agree. He offered to sell me the car, not a bargain anyway, but I didn't like it. I think he had the old drums. If he like his discs, I am not to dis his car or him. Disc brakes don't look good on any car that was not made for them. They also dirty up your whitewalls with brake dust. We have disc brakes that came on several of our modern cars. IF I wanted to add front brakes, I would add drums that look like the rear. But the older cars need to be driven respectfully and at the conditions at the time they were made. Our old cars have lived a very long time with the factory brakes. We are very fortunate that we live next to Stone Mountain Park. 25mph in the Park and has 15 miles of hard surface roads. We feel fine with our two wheel brakes.
  7. I especially agree to get the original brakes working properly. Perhaps with softer "grab-ability" with modern linings like Moose sells. I also know that others are adding "juice" hydraullic brakes inside the rear drums. The bottom line is that only stopping ability is the amount of rubber you put on the ground. On a Model T, the bands in the transmission can clamp and stop the car. I am in the thought that the brakes are a matter of prayer and hope! Obviously the handbrake operates the rear drums. These Brass cars were made when the speed limits could have been as low as 10-20pmh. To me that pushing a brass car at 60-70-80mph is dangerous. I consider it disrespectful to the car. Enjoy waht it was made to do. My 1908 Thomas Flyer has a 100mph speedometer. I think this is for "bragging rights." Obviously the wooden artillery wheels were not made for that speed! In my 50s cars, I have friends installing front disc brakes. Not me. I find that the original brakes are sufficient unless pushing the car beyond its original limits. I remember disc brakes became all the rage in the 1960s when they were popular on race cars. My original question was that since only one wheel drives the car, through the differential, how would a disk brake on the driveshaft would only stop that wheel? It seems logical that a differential must allow one wheel to freewheel when cornering. I seem to remember that the concept of a "limited slip" differential came about in the 1960s for the muscle cars. Though it were possible in Brass Era cars, I can find no research it was done. Even if that were true, I would assume that gearing down would still only slowing the driven wheel. To me it seems illogical to add a disc brake to a driveshaft and an unnecessary expense. Better to put better brakes all around would be the best idea, especially for touring. A local guy seems to have the most driven Duesenberg in the USA at10,000 miles a year. He has disc brakes on his front wheels.
  8. A friend is planning to increasing his braking ability by adding a disc brake on a driveshaft on a brass era car. He thinks it will stop both rear wheels. It would seem to me that it could only stop one rear wheel. Question?
  9. Have heard a substantial rumor that the original Thomas Flyer from the Great Race of 1908 will be there as well as Jeff Mahl (grandson of the TF driver George Schuster) We have entered the following cars. 1903 Columbus Electric Folding Top Runabout, 1908 Thomas Flyer, 1911 Napier Garden car, 1934 Brewster
  10. I am planning to be there. What are you bringing? https://atlantaconcours.org/tyler-perry-studios-2/
  11. I think I will refit the gravity feed system. Not sure why the previous owner had fitted an electric pump. The original carburetor and gas tank are in the same places. Should work as original.
  12. Recently acquired prewar car that has a gravity feed gas tank. It has an electric (12v) fuel pump with a cheap old fuel regulator that was leaking badly. I pulled the old regulator and replaced it with a piece of tubing. Now the carb (upflow) is overpowering the needle valve and leaking. I want to get a new regulator, but don't know the proper pressure for my system. I have looked at a few, but are made for much higher pressure. Probably for fuel injection. I need something that will work with my carburetor. I could go back to original and just remove the electric fuel pump, but may be better to stay with it and get the pressure properly. Any recommendations? What pressure should I need?
  13. Recently acquired a 1911 Napier that has Lucas Landolite self-generating acetylene headlights. It seems that carbide and acetylene are basically the same. Mix water and carbide = acetylene My headlights have a brass container built into each headlight. A valve and easy open headlight doors. Apparently I add a of water and then a push rod goes down the center inside a tube. Maybe this holds carbide? Not sure how to proceed with this?