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About CatBird

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  • Birthday 10/31/1943

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    Car collecting and few others

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  1. Thanks for your input. I am very pleased with the buildings. I wanted them to fit the landscape. My first building is a garage with four rollup doors with two four post lifts inside. 30x60 (1800 sf). This is where our cars will be maintained and repaired. I wanted two lifts because sometimes you have to wait and get parts when one car is up. The picture shows before the end trim was installed. Each bay is 15 feet wide and 30 feet long. Room for toolboxes and work benches. The second building is 100x80 (8,000sf) which will be to display and house some of our classics. 14 foot eaves and 18 feet at the peak of the roof. It has exceeded my expectations! I hope you can come visit sometime. I am still in the cleanup and slogging through mud around the big building. I have minimal electricity, and plan to clear the puddles after a light pressure washing tomorrow. A friend has some giant squirrel cage blowers and a 120k diesel torpedo heater. It is good to have friends. Apparently there is nothing I can do about the puddles. About anything would crack in a relatively short period of time.
  2. I have just finished two buildings with a floor space of about 10,000 sqft. 5,000psi concrete and power troweled finish. I am looking for a good floor coat that can seal, clear, and keep the concrete wet look, maybe with a stain, slightly mottled look would be good. The slabs have been cured for two months, but I just got the roofs up and there is quite a bit of puddles, maybe 1/2" deep. The concrete guy was in a hurry and did not get leveled as should have been done. I suspect there is deep moisture in the slabs and with all the humidity/rain it is not really drying out. All this, I think a water based sealer would be best allowing the moisture to come through. Does anyone have a product that could work?
  3. Bill.....looks very nice, and it should serve you well for many years. I would put two coats of EPOXY floor paint down, with some sand mixed in to prevent slipping. I would also paint the walls eggshell white floor to ceiling. <<<< Going to Home Depot and get the paint you suggest. On the wall where the driver door will open against many people put some very thin carpet to prevent the door handle or painted door edge from damaging paint.......all my cars only contact the door handle, so I just use a towel on the handle getting in and out. <<<< Excellent idea. But normally I don't open the car door. I winch into the trailer, but will have some thin carpet to pad if needed is a great idea. Awful sound when painted metal touches trailer metal! Lots of tie downs and tracks to strap things down to the floor and to the wall are a good idea. <<<< My trailer only came with only four D-Rings because I did not know where to add them for our cars. I am adding four more, welded to the frame. I have ordered eight sets of five foot 50,000 pound E-Tracks from Amazon and the most heavy duty E-Track connectors to my straps. I have my winch set up as a temporary situation, as I don’t often use it, so it “drops in place” when I need it with some special heavy wiring and connections to a battery. Works great, and I don’t trip over it like I did for years with my other trailer. <<<<< I have a spare tire compartment flush in the floor. It will easily hold a 12,000 Harbor Freight winch with a wireless remote. Both you and Traveler Jim like this winch, even though it is beyond overkill, but it is smooth and extra features. With handles, it can be moved as needed. I can also have a deep cycle battery in the floor compartment for the breakaway extra LED lights and tongue jack. A solar panel on the roof (well sealed from rain penetrations). Three way light switches so I can access interior lighting from the back door or from the walk through door. As tripping over a taut cable, I have often tripped -- have we all? But my greatest fear is that coming from the far side of the trailer, tripping over the cable and falling through the open walk through door! (Maybe it could be called a "fall through door." You need to inspect the trailer often for cracks in the frame, and loose bolts and screws. I carry lots of extras for the, break away switch, cable, and battery. Flares, triangles, flashing led’s, ect for safety. And two important things........I usually never buy cheap tools, but for my trailer I have a four ton Harbor Freight floor jack in a home made box, <<<< Love the idea! Floor jack in its own wood box, I think you suggested rope handles. These damn jacks can roll around inside a trailer. and a twenty ton bottle jack also, and don’t forget the cribbing........lots of 2x4;4x4,and 6x6 wooden blocks for jacking and wheel can never have enough of them. A solar battery charger for the winch, jack battery and break away are a good idea. I haven’t done it yet, but I think I am going to install a rear view camera on the truck and trailer, for both safety and convenience while on the road and hooking up the trailer. <<<< Also being done I also had the trailer manufacturer add bright LED backup lights. I want to know where I am backing up, especially at night, and want other people around know the same. Too often foolish people think we can see better than we can. I am also adding a backup beeper wired into my backup lights. Looking for a good backup camera. So far, the wireless don't work so well with a long trailer and a long tow vehicle. Don’t forget the weight distributing hitch and bars.....a must. I have built in cabinets in my trailer, and an added tool box, along with all the regular extras like a compressor, ect. I carry spare diesel fuel......three special five gallon racing jugs from VP fuel, as in the past I have been very low on fuel in the boondocks on a weekend night without easy access to diesel fuel. Don’t forget the HAYLON fire extinguisher......two or thing in the world. My best, Ed <<<< Yep, Yep, Yep! PS- On the back door of my trailer I put a fair amount of additional reflector the red and white pattern. Too many people get rear ended today, so I have a very “clean look” on the trailer sides, but the rear door is very reflective for safety. <<<< I also had the manufacturer add turn indicators with bright LED lights on both sides of the trailer about where the axles. These come on when I am braking and blink when changing lanes when a "Four Wheeler" (big truck jargon) may be beside me when I need to change lanes. So I am off to Home Depot and buying epoxy floor paint, some sand, and some eggshell white for the walls. Maybe some 4x6 horse stall pads with home made frames to easily replace when oil soaked. A tidy appearance. Edited December 2 by edinmass (see edit history)
  4. You have focussed and inspired me to get our Thomas Flyer with the Acetylene lights working. Will check out our Prestolite tanke and see if Wolfgang Gawor made it to work, or with another (hidden) tank, BUT I want to see this grand old car chugging along with its original lights working!
  5. Just got our trailer. From Anvil trailers in Douglas Georgia. Excellent build quality and amazingly low price at about $11,000 Incorporating ideas from all of you, especially Jim and Ed. With an eight foot rear opening, I can haul everything I have with the top up and probably whatever else I may buy. 28 foot length with additional 27" with the slanted Vee nose No show beavertail. One piece aluminum roof. Premium 3/8 plywood sidewalls 24" Stoneguard on front Triple 7,000 pound torsion axles. Brakes on each axle. Aluminum wheels 7,000 pound rated ramp door with additional supports, built-in as needed. 14 ply tires 8.5 wide and 8 foot clearance. Overall inside 8'6" Brandywine .040 sheeting, matching screws 60 inch wide side door with ramp. Spare tire well in the floor MaxAir vents 84" clearance between the inner fenders. heavy duty "D" rings welded to the frame. All lights are LED Reverse lights when backing up Pull out RV Step at passenger door. GVW 21,000 pounds UPGRADES PLANNED Install rosewood engineered flooring (have in stock), interspersed with horse stable pads from Tractor Supply Harbor Freight 12,000 winch with wireless remote. (Have in stock) E-Tracks on walls and floor Additional "D" Rings Harbor Freight tool cabinets (Have in stock) GPS Tracking. Electric tongue jack. (Have in stock) "NOT FOR HIRE -Recreational Use" sign(s) Safety equip. Vest, hat, electric flares, DOT Handbook, First Aid Kit, 12v Air compressor 12v impact wrench Honda Inverter generator (have in stock) Additional interior lights with 3 way switches at door openings. Possibly stain and varnish the interior walls, mostly knot free BC plywood, installed Building a loft in the Vee nose. Thanks, Freighter Jim. Brought it home with pulling about 200 miles. Had a moderate panic stop and it pulled straight and true. Fuel mileage about 2mpg less than my lower trailers. No movement from wind nor passing semis. It is sitting too low with tongue weight. Will load it up, get on level ground and make it level.
  6. Appreciate your help. A few other things getting ready. My trailer will be finished in about a month or more. *Tiedowns? What do you recommend? It comes with some "D Rings" (I think, four) welded to the frame. *TPMs? *A "Job Box" on the Tongue next to the Vee? I have one on my open trailer. I have spares, a winch, deep cycle battery (for the winch and electric jack). I am thinking about wiring the battery into the trailer harness to keep the battery charged, I run an opening in the box to run the cable from the winch. Might do similar in the new enclosed trailer. I don't want to be tripping over the winch. *Battery impact wrench Any other ideas?
  7. Jim and Ed, does it help that every car I haul belongs to me? Can you put a sign that says "Non-Commercial" help? My dually weighs 8k. Not sure how that classes me as GVWR? The "recreational vehicles" would not apply to my cars, I guess. Jim, why not taking your car to a swap meet, etc? Can I refuse to a search? As above? Is the question that the trailer may look too heavy?
  8. I have decided on a 28-foot vee, sloping nose, one-piece aluminum roof. Triple 7k torsion axles. 8' 6" inside height. 7,000-pound ramp door with extra springs to pull it up. 21k gross. As Ed says, we have a lot of cars. My 1958 Cadillac Flower Car weighs in at about 6600 pounds. A 28 foot will hold enough for me, maybe an engine. I have a triple axle power tilt flatbed and I like the way it handles and as Ed said, it stops very well. I use a 2016 GMC Diesel Dually (bought new) rated at 30,000 pounds pull. and 7500 pounds...... I have eclectic tastes. I have also ordered a 5'wide ramp door in the side for our ATV or Golf cart, or??? I am getting the tires Ed suggested, the winch he uses. Hey, I like overkill. Traveler Jim also has some good ideas as well as trulyvintage and some other people here. Thanks!
  9. I have a 1958 Cadillac. Does not run. does roll. Want enclosed transport. Any ideas? One company wants $1500. It is only 812 miles distance.
  10. Looking at having a trailer made, high enough to haul most brass cars. My tallest car is about 7'6" with the top up. I am thinking about a 28foot bumper haul with a rear opening about 8' high. 8'6" inside. I am pulling with a 3500 GMC Diesel Dually. Possibly adding straight, as not in 'drop' axles so easily clear the inner fender wells more easily. Right now my gooseneck Featherlight (6'6" height opening) has 14" high fender wells. I cannot open the doors on my more modern cars. However, this will give me a high profile and 28 foot long with a box that will be 8'6" and an additional 4" not having drop axles. I am wondering if wind will be a factor? Like passing a semi on the expressway?
  11. We have our 1908 Thomas Flyer "50 hp Brass" and out 1903 Columbus electric car in "One and two Cylinder Brass"
  12. I am picking up some steam oil tomorrow. I know about the wrong oil can attack bronze in a transmission or rear end. Here is a picture of our transmission. The Thomas Flyer seems to have one of the finest restorations I have ever seen. It would seem they made sure the transmission would not leak. However, I am about the first people to drive it, though the Auction House did drive it onto the block and on a trailer. I am wondering if I should clean this blue stuff out, or add in the steam oil, or is it ok as it is. The sump and drive chain oilers are properly filled with, as best I can tell, the proper oil. Wolfgang Gawor died before the restoration was finished. The Auction is refusing me to have contact information with Wolfgang's Estate, nor the restoration house that finished the restoration. I am in touch with Jeff Mahl, great-grandson of George Schuster, the original driver with the Thomas in the Great Race of 1908. I was able to open the transmission cover a little, and also showing a few pictures of the car.
  13. Don't know either question. Will take an image and post it. I think it was made to be driven.
  14. Recently acquired 1908 Thomas Flyer from the Wolfgang Gawor collection. It is in fantastic condition. Frame-off restoration and very well done. It has not bee toured, nor even driven very much since restored if any. So we are sorting it out. The transmission/Transaxle gears are very well-coated with a sticky blue grease. Much thicker than 600w, but thinner than wheel bearing grease. Most transmissions I know have 6oow in it. There seems to be any pooling in the pan. I am mystified and do not know if I should add 600w or what?