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About CatBird

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  • Birthday 10/31/1943

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    Car collecting and few others

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  1. Not that I care that much about judging points, but I have heard that you may not lose points for adding safety features. And if touring, might be a good idea. But I don't like the looks of disc brakes and for the most part (unless racing or mountains) don't see the need. If I were to add front brakes, they would be drums and would look like the rear.
  2. I completely agree. He offered to sell me the car, not a bargain anyway, but I didn't like it. I think he had the old drums. If he like his discs, I am not to dis his car or him. Disc brakes don't look good on any car that was not made for them. They also dirty up your whitewalls with brake dust. We have disc brakes that came on several of our modern cars. IF I wanted to add front brakes, I would add drums that look like the rear. But the older cars need to be driven respectfully and at the conditions at the time they were made. Our old cars have lived a very long time with the factory brakes. We are very fortunate that we live next to Stone Mountain Park. 25mph in the Park and has 15 miles of hard surface roads. We feel fine with our two wheel brakes.
  3. I especially agree to get the original brakes working properly. Perhaps with softer "grab-ability" with modern linings like Moose sells. I also know that others are adding "juice" hydraullic brakes inside the rear drums. The bottom line is that only stopping ability is the amount of rubber you put on the ground. On a Model T, the bands in the transmission can clamp and stop the car. I am in the thought that the brakes are a matter of prayer and hope! Obviously the handbrake operates the rear drums. These Brass cars were made when the speed limits could have been as low as 10-20pmh. To me that pushing a brass car at 60-70-80mph is dangerous. I consider it disrespectful to the car. Enjoy waht it was made to do. My 1908 Thomas Flyer has a 100mph speedometer. I think this is for "bragging rights." Obviously the wooden artillery wheels were not made for that speed! In my 50s cars, I have friends installing front disc brakes. Not me. I find that the original brakes are sufficient unless pushing the car beyond its original limits. I remember disc brakes became all the rage in the 1960s when they were popular on race cars. My original question was that since only one wheel drives the car, through the differential, how would a disk brake on the driveshaft would only stop that wheel? It seems logical that a differential must allow one wheel to freewheel when cornering. I seem to remember that the concept of a "limited slip" differential came about in the 1960s for the muscle cars. Though it were possible in Brass Era cars, I can find no research it was done. Even if that were true, I would assume that gearing down would still only slowing the driven wheel. To me it seems illogical to add a disc brake to a driveshaft and an unnecessary expense. Better to put better brakes all around would be the best idea, especially for touring. A local guy seems to have the most driven Duesenberg in the USA at10,000 miles a year. He has disc brakes on his front wheels.
  4. A friend is planning to increasing his braking ability by adding a disc brake on a driveshaft on a brass era car. He thinks it will stop both rear wheels. It would seem to me that it could only stop one rear wheel. Question?
  5. Have heard a substantial rumor that the original Thomas Flyer from the Great Race of 1908 will be there as well as Jeff Mahl (grandson of the TF driver George Schuster) We have entered the following cars. 1903 Columbus Electric Folding Top Runabout, 1908 Thomas Flyer, 1911 Napier Garden car, 1934 Brewster
  6. I am planning to be there. What are you bringing?
  7. I think I will refit the gravity feed system. Not sure why the previous owner had fitted an electric pump. The original carburetor and gas tank are in the same places. Should work as original.
  8. Recently acquired prewar car that has a gravity feed gas tank. It has an electric (12v) fuel pump with a cheap old fuel regulator that was leaking badly. I pulled the old regulator and replaced it with a piece of tubing. Now the carb (upflow) is overpowering the needle valve and leaking. I want to get a new regulator, but don't know the proper pressure for my system. I have looked at a few, but are made for much higher pressure. Probably for fuel injection. I need something that will work with my carburetor. I could go back to original and just remove the electric fuel pump, but may be better to stay with it and get the pressure properly. Any recommendations? What pressure should I need?
  9. Recently acquired a 1911 Napier that has Lucas Landolite self-generating acetylene headlights. It seems that carbide and acetylene are basically the same. Mix water and carbide = acetylene My headlights have a brass container built into each headlight. A valve and easy open headlight doors. Apparently I add a of water and then a push rod goes down the center inside a tube. Maybe this holds carbide? Not sure how to proceed with this?
  10. Thanks for your input. I am very pleased with the buildings. I wanted them to fit the landscape. My first building is a garage with four rollup doors with two four post lifts inside. 30x60 (1800 sf). This is where our cars will be maintained and repaired. I wanted two lifts because sometimes you have to wait and get parts when one car is up. The picture shows before the end trim was installed. Each bay is 15 feet wide and 30 feet long. Room for toolboxes and work benches. The second building is 100x80 (8,000sf) which will be to display and house some of our classics. 14 foot eaves and 18 feet at the peak of the roof. It has exceeded my expectations! I hope you can come visit sometime. I am still in the cleanup and slogging through mud around the big building. I have minimal electricity, and plan to clear the puddles after a light pressure washing tomorrow. A friend has some giant squirrel cage blowers and a 120k diesel torpedo heater. It is good to have friends. Apparently there is nothing I can do about the puddles. About anything would crack in a relatively short period of time.
  11. I have just finished two buildings with a floor space of about 10,000 sqft. 5,000psi concrete and power troweled finish. I am looking for a good floor coat that can seal, clear, and keep the concrete wet look, maybe with a stain, slightly mottled look would be good. The slabs have been cured for two months, but I just got the roofs up and there is quite a bit of puddles, maybe 1/2" deep. The concrete guy was in a hurry and did not get leveled as should have been done. I suspect there is deep moisture in the slabs and with all the humidity/rain it is not really drying out. All this, I think a water based sealer would be best allowing the moisture to come through. Does anyone have a product that could work?
  12. Bill.....looks very nice, and it should serve you well for many years. I would put two coats of EPOXY floor paint down, with some sand mixed in to prevent slipping. I would also paint the walls eggshell white floor to ceiling. <<<< Going to Home Depot and get the paint you suggest. On the wall where the driver door will open against many people put some very thin carpet to prevent the door handle or painted door edge from damaging paint.......all my cars only contact the door handle, so I just use a towel on the handle getting in and out. <<<< Excellent idea. But normally I don't open the car door. I winch into the trailer, but will have some thin carpet to pad if needed is a great idea. Awful sound when painted metal touches trailer metal! Lots of tie downs and tracks to strap things down to the floor and to the wall are a good idea. <<<< My trailer only came with only four D-Rings because I did not know where to add them for our cars. I am adding four more, welded to the frame. I have ordered eight sets of five foot 50,000 pound E-Tracks from Amazon and the most heavy duty E-Track connectors to my straps. I have my winch set up as a temporary situation, as I don’t often use it, so it “drops in place” when I need it with some special heavy wiring and connections to a battery. Works great, and I don’t trip over it like I did for years with my other trailer. <<<<< I have a spare tire compartment flush in the floor. It will easily hold a 12,000 Harbor Freight winch with a wireless remote. Both you and Traveler Jim like this winch, even though it is beyond overkill, but it is smooth and extra features. With handles, it can be moved as needed. I can also have a deep cycle battery in the floor compartment for the breakaway extra LED lights and tongue jack. A solar panel on the roof (well sealed from rain penetrations). Three way light switches so I can access interior lighting from the back door or from the walk through door. As tripping over a taut cable, I have often tripped -- have we all? But my greatest fear is that coming from the far side of the trailer, tripping over the cable and falling through the open walk through door! (Maybe it could be called a "fall through door." You need to inspect the trailer often for cracks in the frame, and loose bolts and screws. I carry lots of extras for the, break away switch, cable, and battery. Flares, triangles, flashing led’s, ect for safety. And two important things........I usually never buy cheap tools, but for my trailer I have a four ton Harbor Freight floor jack in a home made box, <<<< Love the idea! Floor jack in its own wood box, I think you suggested rope handles. These damn jacks can roll around inside a trailer. and a twenty ton bottle jack also, and don’t forget the cribbing........lots of 2x4;4x4,and 6x6 wooden blocks for jacking and wheel can never have enough of them. A solar battery charger for the winch, jack battery and break away are a good idea. I haven’t done it yet, but I think I am going to install a rear view camera on the truck and trailer, for both safety and convenience while on the road and hooking up the trailer. <<<< Also being done I also had the trailer manufacturer add bright LED backup lights. I want to know where I am backing up, especially at night, and want other people around know the same. Too often foolish people think we can see better than we can. I am also adding a backup beeper wired into my backup lights. Looking for a good backup camera. So far, the wireless don't work so well with a long trailer and a long tow vehicle. Don’t forget the weight distributing hitch and bars.....a must. I have built in cabinets in my trailer, and an added tool box, along with all the regular extras like a compressor, ect. I carry spare diesel fuel......three special five gallon racing jugs from VP fuel, as in the past I have been very low on fuel in the boondocks on a weekend night without easy access to diesel fuel. Don’t forget the HAYLON fire extinguisher......two or thing in the world. My best, Ed <<<< Yep, Yep, Yep! PS- On the back door of my trailer I put a fair amount of additional reflector the red and white pattern. Too many people get rear ended today, so I have a very “clean look” on the trailer sides, but the rear door is very reflective for safety. <<<< I also had the manufacturer add turn indicators with bright LED lights on both sides of the trailer about where the axles. These come on when I am braking and blink when changing lanes when a "Four Wheeler" (big truck jargon) may be beside me when I need to change lanes. So I am off to Home Depot and buying epoxy floor paint, some sand, and some eggshell white for the walls. Maybe some 4x6 horse stall pads with home made frames to easily replace when oil soaked. A tidy appearance. Edited December 2 by edinmass (see edit history)
  13. You have focussed and inspired me to get our Thomas Flyer with the Acetylene lights working. Will check out our Prestolite tanke and see if Wolfgang Gawor made it to work, or with another (hidden) tank, BUT I want to see this grand old car chugging along with its original lights working!
  14. Just got our trailer. From Anvil trailers in Douglas Georgia. Excellent build quality and amazingly low price at about $11,000 Incorporating ideas from all of you, especially Jim and Ed. With an eight foot rear opening, I can haul everything I have with the top up and probably whatever else I may buy. 28 foot length with additional 27" with the slanted Vee nose No show beavertail. One piece aluminum roof. Premium 3/8 plywood sidewalls 24" Stoneguard on front Triple 7,000 pound torsion axles. Brakes on each axle. Aluminum wheels 7,000 pound rated ramp door with additional supports, built-in as needed. 14 ply tires 8.5 wide and 8 foot clearance. Overall inside 8'6" Brandywine .040 sheeting, matching screws 60 inch wide side door with ramp. Spare tire well in the floor MaxAir vents 84" clearance between the inner fenders. heavy duty "D" rings welded to the frame. All lights are LED Reverse lights when backing up Pull out RV Step at passenger door. GVW 21,000 pounds UPGRADES PLANNED Install rosewood engineered flooring (have in stock), interspersed with horse stable pads from Tractor Supply Harbor Freight 12,000 winch with wireless remote. (Have in stock) E-Tracks on walls and floor Additional "D" Rings Harbor Freight tool cabinets (Have in stock) GPS Tracking. Electric tongue jack. (Have in stock) "NOT FOR HIRE -Recreational Use" sign(s) Safety equip. Vest, hat, electric flares, DOT Handbook, First Aid Kit, 12v Air compressor 12v impact wrench Honda Inverter generator (have in stock) Additional interior lights with 3 way switches at door openings. Possibly stain and varnish the interior walls, mostly knot free BC plywood, installed Building a loft in the Vee nose. Thanks, Freighter Jim. Brought it home with pulling about 200 miles. Had a moderate panic stop and it pulled straight and true. Fuel mileage about 2mpg less than my lower trailers. No movement from wind nor passing semis. It is sitting too low with tongue weight. Will load it up, get on level ground and make it level.
  15. Appreciate your help. A few other things getting ready. My trailer will be finished in about a month or more. *Tiedowns? What do you recommend? It comes with some "D Rings" (I think, four) welded to the frame. *TPMs? *A "Job Box" on the Tongue next to the Vee? I have one on my open trailer. I have spares, a winch, deep cycle battery (for the winch and electric jack). I am thinking about wiring the battery into the trailer harness to keep the battery charged, I run an opening in the box to run the cable from the winch. Might do similar in the new enclosed trailer. I don't want to be tripping over the winch. *Battery impact wrench Any other ideas?