Charlie G

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About Charlie G

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  1. Well, it's been 2 years but the engine has finally been rebuilt and with the attached transmission I am unable to fit the assembly into the space and line it up with the motor attachment points on the chassis. It appears the transmission is longer that space allows. When I obtained the transmission, I was told it was for 1925 Master. As mentioned earlier, the number in the casting is 37846-5. I would be willing to trade it for the correct tranny but need to confirm the correct number. Anyone know of a source for this?
  2. Anyone know of another source for window blinds?
  3. Thanks Larry and Brian for all your info. I was barely able to read the stamped number by the data plate but could see 268, verifying the 25 master identity. If there was a D preceding it I could not see it. My engine rebuilder was glad to hear the bushings were needed which confirmed his suspicion.
  4. I believe it was off of a 1925 Buick but I'm not certain Is there any way to tell from the data plate?
  5. Since my engine is being rebuilt by someone other than me, I have been asked why the 3 attachment holes have different sizes. The center opening is small and the other 2 are larger even though the holes in the block appear to be the same size. What is the purpose of the larger openings? Do these openings have some type of insulating or isolating rubber components or is there some other reason? It was not on the engine when I got the engine so I never saw how it was mounted.
  6. Thanks Larry Any suggestions as to where to find new plugs that would fit under the spark plug cover? Charlie G
  7. I found Champion Spark plugs in original boxes labelled w10 and others W18. Are these compatible for the 1925 Master series? Charlie G
  8. On my 1925 54C under restoration, I had to disassemble the handle in order for the plating to be done. It is the loop handle as pictured above. One of the handles was rejected by the plating company due to deterioration of the pot metal with a large crack in the handle. I would like to replace it, but wonder if a pot metal restorationist could repair it. If not, I am looking for a usable handle. Charlie
  9. Well, now that I have removed the washer, there was no spring inside. Instead there were washers or spacers that came out ok. The escutcheon is still not able to be removed. What it looks like to me is a cast piece of metal pressed on that has to be removed. I tried tapping it with a chisel and a chunk of it came off but did not move otherwise. But it has to come off before I can send it to the plating business. Any ideas before I chisel it off? Thanks. Charlie G
  10. I will have to remove the escutcheon ( the oval piece that spins freely on the handle) from the handle to be plated. The post is staked and I can remove it but not sure the best way. Has anyone had to plate one of these handles? Charlie G
  11. David You are correct. I removed it however if any solder was used, I saw no evidence of it. It came off with heat but it is obviously pressed on tightly and I expect the heat expansion allowed it to be removed. Thanks to all for the various bits of info and expertise. Charlie
  12. Hugh I tried to loosen the cover B by tapping lightly with a flat punch around the perimeter where a small gap exists. I didn't notice any movement so I will apply some penetrating spray before the next attempt. I also needed a key and will contact Jesser for that. You have been helpful and I think the stick will be removed the way you explained. The 2 covers will need plating as well so I will eventually get them off. Charlie
  13. I found casting numbers on the side of the transmission 37846-5 on both of the housings. The tower had a casting number 163490-1. However, Hugh listed 173414 for the transmission in 1925. Do these numbers confirm any year or model? If so, will this transmission still work with the master series engine? Thanks Charlie
  14. I have removed the tower and I see a shaft perpendicular to the stick that might be removable. I was hoping something easy would be the answer but it doesn't look that way. The parts diagram from 24 shows a longer stick than I thought it would be but it has to be attached inside the tower because it doesn't extend below the tower. In fact, it is not visible from inside the tower. I'm wondering if is just threaded but the parts diagram again doesn't appear that it would. I have a spare transmission that I could experiment with to see what could be done from the inside. They both look the same but since I bought them separate from the engine, now I'm wondering if there is a different transmission for the standard and master series. If so, how do I tell what series they are to be used with. As far as plating, I found traces of plating on a 26 master handbrake. I suspect the 25 should be also. It seems logical that both would be plated as they are next to each other anyway. Thanks for your replies so far. Charlie
  15. I am new to the forum. I am restoring a 1925 54C. I would like to remove the gear shift stick. I believe it should be nickel plated but it at least needs some kind of restoration if plating is not correct. I have tried removing the set screw and sleeve that is visible but cannot tell if that is necessary. What is the correct way to remove it? Thanks.