dracenroc

Members
  • Content Count

    158
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

44 Excellent

About dracenroc

  • Rank
    Senior Member

Profile Information

  • Location:
    Zurich, Switzerland

Recent Profile Visitors

871 profile views
  1. Thank you Kevin! @ Grant: Would be great to see you your pics, thank you! Werner
  2. Thank you Brad! I didn't have this, only the parts book oft the 120"s & 128"s where all. Good to know they used the same models for the 115"s too...and that I can get it for 8$ 🤣! I don't have any figures but from pictures I have I would say the front arm is about a third longer than the rear arm. If you could measure the arm length I can check if they would fit. Enjoy your visit! Werner
  3. Don't know, the pressure for the '28 standard is given as 93 pounds
  4. I'm still looking for some front shocks for a '28 master 128" (Model 51) Can someone please post some pics how the front shocks and strap studs are attached (strap stud to the front or to the rear)? If possible I also would appreciate a measurement of the arm lengths of the front shocks. Thank you!
  5. Tom, book says 80 pounds for a 28' master, don't know the engine specs of a '26 master but with your 70-80 psi your compression should be ok.
  6. sagefinds, your shocks are most probably rears. I have the following numbers on mine: left: G2, 820997 right: R15, 820996 Shock itself might be the same, front and rear, but without the correct arms it doesn't help me.
  7. Thanks for your help! Its hard to say, depends on the condition. An other thing will be the postage to send them to Europe. Not sure what you mean with "shorter slightly curved arm". According the parts book for the '28 128"Series the fronts have longer arms and are straight. This should make sense since the distance between the mounting point and the strap stud is bigger than the distance in the rear. In the attached picture you can see the 1500G/H shocks, this ones are for the front for a model 54 (1500K/J are rear shocks for the 54). I don't no the difference to the model 51in connection with the shocks. Chassis dimensions are the same, and the model 54C uses the 1500A/B, like the model 51. There are no part numbers on the shocks before 1930 anyway, the figures given here are just to identify the item in the picture. If you could measure the arm and the distance between the attaching bolt holes it might help me to check if they would fit. Thank you.
  8. Need a pair of front shock absorbers for a '28 Master (Model 51) According the books the type is a Delco-Remy 1500-A and 1500-B for right and left front. It fits Models 47-47S-48-50-51-54C and 55 I also need the two shock absorber strap studs for the front axle. Any tips appreciated.
  9. After having a closer look to the front axle I realized that both front shocks are missing. The whole equipment is gone. Don't know how they drove like this and how the handling of the car will be... According the books the type is a Delco-Remy 1500-A and 1500-B for right and left front. It fits Models 47-47S-48-50-51-54C and 55 I also need the two shock absorber strap studs for the front axle.
  10. The engine is running! Thank you all for your hints and tips! Unfortunately the 17°ADV TDC doesn't fit to any cylinder position, don't know how and why but I couldn't time the ignition according the books and your hints. I finally did this: turning the #1 cylinder to TDC (thanks to the mark I made when the engine was on stand) and as good as I could check the position through the spark plug hole than I turned the engine slowly reverse so that the rotor moved 8.5° (as good as I could measure this on an attached distributor). That gives me roughly 17° ADV TDC on #1 cylinder. after that I knew the ignition was set as good as I can do with this method but the engine still didn't fire up, except spraying continuously starter aid into the carbs intake removing the carb again I found a cracked high speed jet pipe by filling the bowl with fuel. Fuel was spilling out of the crack as long as the fuel level in the bowl was higher than the lowest point of the crack. I soldered the pipe and checked if it keeps dry The engine than fired up. First time by using starter aid filled through a tube attached to the vacuum port. After that I adjusted the 17° ADV by a strobe light. It runs rather like a tractor than a 12 cylinder Rolls Royce engine but I'm happy and sure after a complete tune up (and an attached muffler) it will be much better😊
  11. My statement was probably not all clear. #1 is not at TDC with valves closed starting the admission stroke but at about BDC, #1 fully charged. Continued cranking about 180° towards TDC with closed exhaust and inlet valve (charge compressed and ready to ignite). Sorry for the confusion. Thats what I did now. As the flywheel has 6 bolts to attach it can only be attached by a multiple of 60 degrees. Positioning the 17 ° ADV mark in line showed that #4 is at compression stroke approaching TDC. I than aligned #4 terminal to the 17° mark. Hope it works, haven't had the time to fire it up. Thank you all for your help, will let you know about the progress ...or failure 🤨
  12. I don't know if it is coming into the engine. Thats the other issue, the carburetor. Removing the spark plugs after a few start trials (after 5-8 start attempts the small batterie is down and I have to wait until it is fully charged again) they are all looking dry. I'm sure fuel is in the float bowl and fuel is also coming out of the low and/or high speed jet. Fuel is tripping out of the air inlet after a few revolutions. So I'm not sure if an air / fuel mixture is making it into the cylinders but in the carb is fuel for sure. After the engine once was "running" while continuously spraying starter aid into the air inlet I removed the carb again.I dismantled the carb and ultrasonic cleaned everything, reinstalled all the parts acc the "Overhaul a Marvel Carbureter" booklet. Checking the heat riser I found the cracked and fixed sleeve. I checked the exhaust in- and outlets of the heat riser to make sure they are firmly clogged and sealed. A vacuum test on the bench showed that there is no "wrong air" coming either through the exhaust in- nor the outlet. I'm not sure if the sleeve is "welded" firmly. The carb and heat riser is definitely not in a perfect state but the engine was once running exactly with this carb and its setup.
  13. I hope to get a hint here to get my '28 Master Engine running again. I tried everything I know but I never had such trouble starting an engine. History before I took the engine out of the car it was running, starting at the first time, running not too bad but don't know if it could have done better because I never drove the car on the street. I then decided to remove the engine in order to give it a better look, clean everything and paint it. tranmission, starter, water pump, generator, distributor, carburetor and everything else attached to the engine removed I did NOT remove the cylinder head nor anything of the valve train camshaft, pistons, rods, crankshaft, flywheel everything stayed untouched in place Having the engine on stand I marked the TDC of piston #1 as good as I could with the head still in place (did this by checking the TDC at the crankshaft) After reinstalling I first aligned the ignition. It turned out, that the position mark "17° ADV" must be at the wrong place. Having the mark exactly in the middle of the "spy hole" #1 piston is almost at BDC. Probably the flywheel was not installed correctly once before. Lucky me I marked the TDC when the engine was on stand, for what ever reason. But unfortunately don't help me to get the 17° ADV correctly, or at least I don't know how with the engine sitting in the car. To find a more accurate position of the 17° ADV I used the piston travel method (bright portion of the cylinder wall just covered with the top of the piston). Then I adjusted the rotor contact under #1 high tension terminal (spark lever fully advanced). The engine is still not running, not even misfiring. There might also be some trouble with the carburetor, but first I need to align the ignition. And the engine was running before with the same carburetor and its setting.... The following setup is given: assuming cylinder #1 is in front of the engine/car firing order is 1-4-2-6-3-5 distributor rotor is turning clockwise #1 tension terminal is slightly to the left of 12 o'cock position of the distributor (looking from passenger side of the car towards the engine) new 17° ATC marked at compression stroke, both valves closed or about to closing spark lever in half position I tried full advanced and full backward too, no difference Marvel 10/105 carb with heatriser heatriser has a cracked sleeve (fixed with JB weld or similar) heatriser port at exhaust manifold blocked with a sealed sheet metal heatriser tube to exhaust clogged fuel tank not installed yet but vacuum pump filled up with fuel spark plugs and breaker points adjusted spark visible on all cylinders vacuum port to windshield wiper connected vacuum port to fuel pump blocked/closed cylinder compression not yet tested (don't have such a big adapter for this kind of spark plug holes) only the exhaust pipe is installed, no muffler, no end pipe As the engine once runned before I guess it has something to do with the ignition. During dismantling of the engine I removed the the complete RH assembly (generator, distribute inclusive rotor shaft, water pump). I had several (newer) engines were the ignition was not set correctly initially, but they were all running even though rather bad of course. The engine once was running for a short while, setting the ignition one notch advance of the TDC position of the #1cylinder and using a can of starter spray injecting during cranking, Any tips appreciated, I'm sure I miss something obvious...
  14. Picture is from a ended eBay listing. Seller states original interior. My '28 is restored and they are gone, too.