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27donb

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Everything posted by 27donb

  1. Why do you want to remove it? If it's similar to mine, the aluminum wheel spokes are held to the steering shaft on a taper, with a key. 27 Master shown below:
  2. Doesn't a 28 Master Series Radiator have a hole in the base for the crank, and the Standard Series doesn't?
  3. I would love to see this kind of detailed pictures for a 1920's Buick restoration which is more my vintage, but barring that, this is a great thread with excellent information. Thanks for posting the progress, it is fascinating and inspiring!
  4. Something similar to this is the solution. I am not familiar with 1931 Buicks. http://bobsautomobilia.com/cooling-system/1929-30-all-ser.-ball-bearing-fan-hub-replacement.-.-fh-290/ Or, make your own, based on something like this:
  5. I removed mine with a pair of lift straps around the motor mount ears, and 2 lift eyelets on bolts on the front timing cover, plus a load equalizer bar. I could not see a way around the steering box, so I pulled the steering wheel and removed the column and box before pulling the engine. The engine rested on concrete blocks and wood to keep it level and stable. I was not planning to do any engine disassembly, however. An engine stand is a must for disassembly, which I have not done. I had a Pontiac 400 engine on a stand once, and it was scary. It would definitely bounce and flex, and was hard to move with cheap caster wheels. Get an engine stand with a wide stance, and of high quality. I once stood back and calculated in my head that if the tubing or China welds decided to give up, not only would the engine fall and probably break my legs, but it would ruin the crank and most likely go right through the garage floor. With a heavy Buick 6 cylinder engine, be prepared to support the front end of the engine while working on it, even if it is on a proper engine stand.
  6. Do it right, do them all. If one is leaking, if one is paper thin, there might be more. Different animal, but on my 27 Master I removed the front push rod cover to change the gasket, and discovered the freeze plug under there had a green drop on it. I went through the same ideas in my head. How can I make this an easier, quicker job. On my car there is a plug in the back of the head, and below it in the back of the cylinder block, that face the firewall. After much floorboard disassembly, I could probably have replaced the cylinder block one, but the head was inaccessible. There was no way I was going to cut a hole to replace it. I pulled the engine. It gave me a chance to remove them all, put the engine outside and flush a lot of sediment and rust from the water jacket. I spent a lot of time afterward with a magnet, pulling out rust that couldn't be washed out. I blew it all dry. Reinstalled all new plugs, and painted the engine.
  7. I must say, I agree with the advice given. One of the best things that all my Buicks of that vintage do, is leak oil. And if it's not getting on the brakes...so much the better! I wish my rear brakes weren't dripping! I switch to Penrite Transoil 250w which I read is equivalent to 600w steam oil originally called for in the transmission and rear axle. So far, my leaks have s l o w e d but I don't expect them to ever be totally gone.
  8. Those all look great. I really like a clean well detailed engine.
  9. I've been using Eastwood Grey Manifold Paint and I like it. Original cast iron would be flat in color, although I like the idea of ceramic coated. The Eastwood paint is inexpensive and can be brushed on and touched up easily. I don't really worry about the curing, just brush it on and whenever the manifold gets used it will cure. http://www.eastwood.com/factory-gray-hi-temp-coating.html Can anyone post a picture of their ceramic coated manifold? I would like to see what it looks like.
  10. Those pictures, makes me sad, my original 24-25 honeycomb radiator is gone forever.... Repairs or not, you are lucky to have that! I'm not a fan of silver, I would leave natural or black. My radiator cores are painted black.
  11. Still a beautiful car! And pictures explain everything! That's why, we love pictures here! Thanks for posting them Gary. Sorry I can't help to answer your questions, but I am following the thread to see more and learn.
  12. My question exactly, why is such a nice car being restored? I WISH my car had beautiful paint like that!
  13. Automatic transmission?!?
  14. Wow that looks like a steal of a deal. The rear wheel looks crooked, but probably because the other side tire may be soft too. The top looks a little ill fitting, like it is shrunk. The rear window shape looks original. Wish I was closer, and had the money!
  15. Could you post a picture of the front and back?
  16. Good information there, thanks! Mine does the same thing.
  17. One of my favorite features. My Wife has driven my 27-54CC. Although she didn't like it much when I told her to do a "K" turn. Just kidding about that, but the most difficult part for her was getting used to the manual steering at slower speeds. It's hard to break the habit of years of power steering. But the clutch was never a problem for her.
  18. 1928 was the first year for the traditional 3 speed shift pattern.
  19. Beautiful car, and very inspiring to those that may have what they consider to be close to a "basket case" as well, and what the outcome can be!
  20. What year is a Model F Buick? Left hand drive? I don't know if some early Buicks were right hand drive like some other makes I thought were...
  21. Nah, when you start off in third, you will realize you are in third pretty quickly, and then you can just stay there once you s l o w l y get going.
  22. Sometimes over a longer period of non use, I would depress the clutch pedal to the floor with a stick of wood against the pedal and the back side of the steering tube support bracket to keep the clutch plates from sticking together. Not sure how many owners would endorse this, as it keeps the clutch spring compressed for a long period of time when it is only designed to be compressed for a few seconds at a time.
  23. My 27-54CC clutch was stuck. Starting it in gear was like it had no clutch, the pedal had no affect at all. Everything appeared normal externally. This is what I found on the inside. 80+ years of....yunk!
  24. John, Thank you for being the relay from us to Jon Henry! Email sent to you! Don 27-54CC 27-25 24-45
  25. Beautiful car! More pics, don't forget the engine compartment please, share!
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