27donb

And I think I will leave mine as well, they are secure and are not easily seen without removal of the floors.

As previously determined, the screws shown on mine are incorrect.

Thank you, that is very helpful and just what I was looking for!

My 24-45 is MISSING it's manual windshield wiper. Does anyone have a picture of their original manual wiper on their 1924 Buick that they could share, so I could know what style to search for?

The trim cross section looks like a "T" channel, and is fastened to the edges with screws. I will take some pictures to show and post them over the weekend, unless someone else beats me to it!

That is the information I needed, thanks Terry. I tried some acetone with a scotchbrite pad tonight and it took the paint off, and gave the trim a decent look and finish. Good idea with the scotch brite pad, it made quick work of it! I use some never dull to finish it off. Thanks Hugh!

Thank you for confirming it Hugh! Thanks, I have ordered from them before, they do have good stuff.

It's actually a 1927 model 54CC Convertible Coupe.

Should my 1924 Buick have ANY Phillips head screws? I've always thought all screw fasteners were slotted, but I really don't know when PHS were used on Buicks or other cars of the 1920's. For an authentic look, which is correct?

What finish should the aluminum trim pieces on the floor boards have? Mine appear to be....green? Also the shift lever / emergency brake lever trim plate...green? As mine appears to be? Or black? I seem to remember seeing pictures somewhere of a restored 24-45, and the floor trim was silver aluminum finish.

The engine is a 1925, and it is stuck. As the start of process of elimination, I want to remove and rule out the water pump as being the part that is seized. If I have to pull the gear along with the assembly, the starter generator has to come out first to make room I guess. I thought the front pin could be driven out and the shaft could be separated from the assembly that attaches to the timing cover in the front, leaving that in place. If not, I'm not sure why I had to drive out that front pin, it could be done on the bench later. It came right out anyway, still working on cleaning up the rear shaft area so the collar will slide out of the way. Is it any wonder why they discontinued this setup?

I am trying to remove the water pump from my 24-45 and am trying to follow this thread for instructions and advice. Just trying to understand...does the gear assembly have to be removed from the timing cover? If so, why is it necessary to remove the split pin from under the big nut on the shaft coming out of the timing cover? I have read that when removing or reinstalling the front gear, the fiber camshaft timing gear teeth can be shaved or stripped by the metal gear at the front of the water pump shaft, which is why I was hoping to drive out the spiral pin and pull the pump shaft out of the gear assembly at the timing cover, without actually pulling the gear out. Is this possible, or what am I missing? I already have the generator end shaft disconnected and free.

I don't know the answer to that question, but I would ask, if an original part can be restored, why would you consider replacing it with a reproduction? And I do understand the economics of buying a reproduction part over chrome plating an original part, the prices associated are probably very far apart (the chrome plating being much more expensive). Ford Model A and Volkswagen Beetles come to mind, where there are enough reproduction parts available that you can almost build the whole car from reproduction parts. But there are people out there that take cars like that, and start over with a restoration, to find, replace and use as many original parts as possible instead of relying on the reproduction market. In my opinion, I would definitely re-chrome the original parts you have!

Correct, I don't. My 1927 reference book does not have colors in the wiring diagram, I assumed none of them do. Judging from the picture you shared (Thank you), most of the wires are black, making it easy!

The car is a 1924 model 45, I was thinking of running the wires myself instead of trying to get a harness kit.

Does anyone have a chart that tells what color wires should go to what features for the old Buicks? Ammeter to battery, light switch to parking light, horn wire colors, etc. Red, black, yellow, yellow with tracer... I would like to rewire somewhat authentically, but not sure where to start as far as colors go.

I need to practice with the parts book, it's kind of confusing to me to find what I'm looking for. Thank you for the information! Did Buick generally have a different tank for Master and Standard series?

I am looking for a Vacuum Fuel pump that mounts to the firewall for a 1924 model 45. Are they all the same from 1924 through 1928?