27donb

Those fenders look like glass, beautiful! More pictures, please!

Kevin, I want to thank you for posting the story and pictures. When I put mine back together, I will pay close attention to the issue you were having to see if I have the same. Very interesting. And light oil, not grease, that makes sense, thanks Rod W.

Success! Good to hear!

Never had an issue with Trans oil 250, which is equivalent to 600W. However, I let my Buick warm up completely before venturing out. In winter storage at freezing temperatures, the shift lever will barely move, the oil is so thick.

With Buick not sharing any parts between Standard and Master Series models of the same year, and I mean literally not any, I would be surprised if another MAKE of car shared similar wood body parts as the Buick make. I think if there were kits compatible with Buick, people would be using them.

Thanks for all the replies and ideas! Fred Rawling has provided an original cover for me, thanks Fred! Don

How about a local exhaust shop? My Dad brought the 27-54CC to a local exhaust shop and they expertly bent up an original looking exhaust system using aluminumized pipe for a reasonable price. That was over 30 years ago. Still on there today and still looks great with no visible rust. The price a local place might charge today, might compete with a system you can order on the internet.

Transmission and rear axle oils are best checked and filled with the vehicle level. Ramps in the front only would give too much of an angle to get an accurate level reading or fill amount. When I use ramps for the front wheels, I simply jack up the rear axle also and use jackstands to position the whole car at an elevated level.

Are they silvered? Silver polish? That's all I used on my 24-45. They were discolored enough to actually look 2 different colors with the lenses installed. Silver polish cleaned them right up!

That story Matt was interesting, but somewhat sad that you and your family had such poor luck with Buicks. I wish that was not the case! The only thing I can add is that the two problems you describe as the culprits were major. In my opinion, chasing an intermittent problem, the worst thing that can happen is to take everything apart, adjust everything, and find nothing wrong. In some ways it would be a relief to say, hey the cam is worn out, or hey the distributor shaft is wobbly! It's actually good news when something is found to be wrong. Maybe these basic major things are playing a factor in Larry's problem. Let me also say that I love using original parts and original systems, but I draw the line when it makes the car undrivable or this much unenjoyable and unreliable. I use Carter BB1 updrafts, and electric fuel pumps, and have no issues. Others have gone even further, flipped the manifold and used a downdraft carb too.

That's great news! More enjoyment out of the car is always a plus!

Small price to pay for that kind of heavy labor. If you are happy with the result, that's all that is important. The proof is in the driving!

I was quoted $4000 in labor for this job on my 27-54CC, no parts. It takes time!

My 1924-45 is missing the sheet metal wiring cover that mounts on the dash side of the firewall. Does anyone have an extra for sale? Please message me here if you have one! Thank you, Don

Thanks Hugh! Yes, I knew Summit or Jegs would have it, I was looking at the right handed in / out version. I emailed Jegs and they replied that the Fram PH8A is the filter that works with it, which is what my current double filter has too.

The power of shock! Good advice Hugh! BTW, that's what the bottom of a good vacuum tank should look like? Looks like I have some work to do on mine...

I am going to "try" this screen on my 24-45. It is not soldered on or installed yet. The collared end has to be removed, and then soldered to the tube. http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-BUG-BUS-GHIA-FUEL-TANK-SCREEN-111209147A-MADE-IN-GERMANY-/251541156870?fits=Make%3AVolkswagen|Model%3ASuper+Beetle&hash=item3a91057406:g:0GAAAOSw3ydVxYgG&vxp=mtr

87...and I only WISH there was a place here that sold with no ethanol...

I am not in any way an engine builder. So it's difficult to give advice on that, I'm sure others would be able to share their experience. I can say that my 27-25 has a 207 engine with quite a few miles on it, and it runs like a watch with 35 psi. It is however a very noisy loose engine, which I would think would make it leaky and have less oil pressure. The previous owner told me he and a friend tried to re-shim the bearings to take up some wear and quiet it down, and the engine would not turn. So they reinstalled the original shims, and just drove it. That's my plan too is just to drive it and be good to it, keep the rpms and vehicle speed low. My measurements are only with the factory installed gauges as well. Sometimes I wish all I had was an idiot light that would go out when there was a pre-determined amount of oil pressure, that way I wouldn't have to worry about it.

Master Six 274 CID engine - 30 psi Standard Six 207 CID engine - 35 psi

Thank you Bob! I have to crawl under my modern vehicles to change the oil filter, why not the Buick? And that way I can bring the firewall a little closer to the way it was originally too. I will have to check my oil lines after a ride for their temperature, I never thought to do that.

Alex, Congratulations on buying such a beautifully restored Buick!

I was considering a magnetic drain plug too, good idea! I like the paint and details on your engine.

True I could, but my plan is to find and re-install the Stewart vacuum fuel tank in that original location on the firewall. I wonder if Buick mounted those original oil filters high on the firewall to help with supplying the upper end oil by partial gravity feed, or just for convenience of changing out the filter...?

Can I relocate the dual aftermarket oil filter setup I have on my 24-45, to a location out of site, on the frame? I notice original oil filters in 1926 and 1927 are high on the firewall, leading to somewhat of a gravity assisted feed of oil from the filter to the head and valve train area. If I relocate my aftermarket oil filter to a spot low on the frame, will the pump be able to push the oil through the filters and back "up" to the top of the engine? Assuming I have a good pump with 30 psi oil pressure.