27donb

Yes, plated brass. Although this car has been converted to mostly all chrome instead of nickel, which although incorrect, is my preference as well.

Kevin, Here's what I came up with. I hope it helps: 1 - 10" 2 - 28 7/8" measured across the floor board edge to edge, at the point right behind the transmission shift lever tower 3 - 30 1/4" 4 - 13 5/16" 5 - 2 3/4" 6 - 1 3/8" 7 - yes body to frame bolt hole (bolt in picture has been removed) 8 - 19" 9 - 3 5/8" TOTAL (3 1/8" with a 1/2" rabbit) 10 - 3" TOTAL (2 1/2" with a 1/2" rabbit) 11 - 5 3/8" measured across the board at the back edge of the metal band

Thanks Terry! All done for today, but I will check the housing with a magnet tomorrow. The snap ring is rusty, I'll probably paint it silver and just clean up the rest including the "switch" contact areas. I took approximately 3x as many pics as actually shown, in order to get some decent enough ones to post. Luckily I had plenty of film for my digital camera...

Kevin, here are some seat platform pictures. Do you need more? Let me know...

As it turns out, the switch knob goes up and down. Looks like it completes the ground to light up the bulb. Most of my car is rewired with modern wire...except this light. Time to rewire before a fire.

That is the other reason I want to remove it too, to see how it works and verify the switch operation and condition. Will report back later...

Oh yes, I see it now from your pictures and Terry's description. Thanks, and I will try to get some pics for you tomorrow.

I did try my hand at gently prying and twisting on it, but it seems pretty solid.

Yes the flap covers a storage compartment, but I reached in there and found a wood wall that separates the compartment from the light. I do see the snapring now, I should have removed my specs and gotten within an inch of it, then maybe I could have seen it! There is only one lamp, on the passenger side. I remember years ago when my Grandfather owned this car, he had a friend who owned a Pierce-Arrow of similar vintage, and that car had a lamp on both sides. The gentleman who owned it, in a competition and kidding fashion with my Grandfather, commented on how the Buick was the lesser car because it had only one light for rear passengers!

Can anyone help in describing, how to remove this light? If the bulb needed to be replaced, how would I get to it? I would like to remove the assembly and shine it up, as well as run a new wire to it.

Thank you Rod W and Hugh. Looks like the left side is one year only, the right side is 24-25 6 cylinder. Joy.

My 24-45 is missing the 2 curved engine splash drip pans on each side of the engine. Were these pans standard in 1924? What section would they be located in the Buick Master Parts book, so that I can find out what other years might fit? I am not having any luck...

It's a beautiful car, and my Buicks will never be as nice, but for that kind of money I would want the belt line trim between the hood and cowl to match up better than that as well.

A Buick with 1925 features is a 1925 Model, even if it was produced in 1924. For example, my 27-54CC came off the line in December 1926, but on the title the car is a 1927 Model. There were no Convertible Coupes offered in 1926.

Maybe something like this would work?

Thanks Terry, Was there no taillight used on the year of the Buick picture you posted? Where would be an accepted location to move my taillight, if I decided to? I have not seen the taillight in any other location on the mid 1920's Buicks, other than in the center of the spare... Also, do you feel the Duplex Spare Tire Carrier or the extension arms to fit my existing carrier, are still available?

For years my 1924-45 had a second spare tire "strapped" to the first spare tire, which was mounted to the spare tire carrier. The "Straps" have broken, were tossed, or have just plain vanished over time. I may just try to find new straps, to replace them. My 27-54CC has dual spares, but it has 3 brackets made to hold the second spare. I don't have these brackets for the 24-45, and I am interested in how you mount a second spare, or other ideas you might have to do so. How do you attach your second spare tire to your tire carrier?

I have isolated sounds before, by pulling the belt off and running the engine BRIEFLY without it (because of course there will be no coolant circulation without the water pump turning) Could you remove the belt and run it to see if the sound is gone?

Wow, that is tight in there. Just thinking out loud...How about making some mechanism above the floorboard? Is that possible? Take off the accelerator pedal and design something to mount to it, and extend over to the right, and have a mount with a pedal over there, all above the floor. It might be strange looking, but it might work.

When I removed mine recently, I was pleasently surprised to find that there was a ledge there too, to hold it. I was expecting and prepared for it to fly to the floor when I removed the 3rd bolt. I was ready for it, but it just sat there. Nice of Buick designers to make that little ledge for all of us!

Thanks Pete, but in my situation the concerns I am having is with the resistance "dim" low beam headlight setting, which is supposed to be dim. My only concern, was how hot the resistance coil was getting, and that the voltage was being cut by almost 2/3. I wasn't sure if that was typical of others with the same original setup. I already do use 6 volt relays for the headlights and driving lights in my 27-54CC, that does not use the resistance coil for the low beam circuit.

Of course, the 26 and newer models have the dual filament headlight bulbs, with a high beam and low beam circuit, and the steering column mounted dimmer switch. The circuit breaker coil is present on the earlier models also, to protect against short circuits. But my circuit breaker works and is not in question here. The earlier models had single filament headlight bulbs, with a resistance coil to "dim" the bulbs to act as low beam, as shown in the picture in my original post. Today I bought a ballast resistor from an auto parts store and did a bench test on my setup, and got a similar result. The ballast resistor was about 1.0 ohms, and gave me about 3.0 volts to the bulbs in the "dim" position. The coil heated up, but at least it is mounted in a porcelain holder and not out in the open on the back of the switch as the original one was. I feel a little safer using it. I will not be installing halogen bulbs. I have found driving at night that the original headlights do an adequate job. The most dangerous driving at night is at dusk or dawn, or where there are a lot of street lights. On dark roads and at the slower Buick speeds, the headlights are fine.

Hello generator14, Soon after I posted my reply I felt silly and stupid...I thought, his car is probably right hand drive! Oh well, sorry I couldn't help! I do look forward to seeing your pedal layout, i didn't realize they were that different.

Not sure what you mean by central accelerator pedal. Attached is a picture of my 1924, and it is similar to my 1927, the accelerator pedal is to the right of the brake pedal. Can you post a picture of what you have?

Thanks Leif, I was reading about diodes, I will look more into that.