Jump to content

147 Franklin Airman

  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About 147 Franklin Airman

  • Birthday 02/14/1958

Recent Profile Visitors

892 profile views

147 Franklin Airman's Achievements

500+ Points

500+ Points (2/7)

  • Reacting Well Rare
  • Collaborator

Recent Badges



  1. Many thanks Hugh, That is the correct picture of my cyl head.
  2. Hi Does anyone know what the torque setting should be on the cylinder head bolts on a 1929-25 6 cylinder standard engine?
  3. Hi Brooklyn All is good with Jim. I had pulled away going downhill and as soon as I went into 2nd she let go and of course the clutch doesn't do anything as the wheels were still turning the transmission. Not the first time this has happened to me.
  4. Thanks Paul I wasn't sure if the Detroit would fit straight in, so I will keep looking for a 3 speed Warner. Martin
  5. Hi Does anyone have either the Eccentric gear (49500) and the Intermediate gear (49487) or a complete Warner T3A Hi-Flex transmission that they are willing to sell? This is from my 1930 Series 14. Of course I would not refuse a working Detroit 4 speed if there are any out there.
  6. Hugh, I meant that the higher octane fuel could be the reason that the timing needs to be less than 17 deg. I have used a vacuum gauge and she reads a reasonably steady 18 inches of mercury. I believe that a reading between 15 -20 indicates all is good. I'm going to change the ignition coil next. Martin
  7. Hugh I set the timing at 17 BTDC but she doesn't like it at all, I had to retard it a little to get her to run smoother although she is still lumpy. I assume this is due to the higher octane fuel.
  8. Thanks Hugh That is useful information regarding the setting of the timing with the steering wheel lever, thank you. I have had to do the timing by feel as could never see the 17 deg mark with my timing light. All the plugs were new as are the leads but I have just ordered new ones, I also removed the spark lead cover and separated all the leads in case I had cross firing. Compression since servicing the head is now 79-82 psi across all cylinders. Martin
  9. Thank you everyone for your suggestions. I thought I would update on what I have found/done. Since I couldn't solve my issues with my Marvel carb I purchased a Rochester B series carburetor (picture attached) Marvel bottle is the pony tank. Results: Using both the main fuel tank and a pony tank the runs but is lumpy at idle and low speeds, she climbs hills no problem but I still have to have the choke out a little. In doing so she is smoking indicating that she is running rich. When cruising at 30mph or slower she runs lumpy but will smooth out when pushing the choke in but only for a few seconds then I have to pull the choke out again as she spits through the carb. Has anyone else experienced this? I have done so much work on this engine but my original problem is still there. I don't have any hair left to pull out.
  10. I will give that a try. Running out of ideas now, although I have just noticed that the thickness of the gasket between the carb & the heat riser would effect the timing of the opening of the metering pin in relation to the main butterfly on the heat riser. Going to make a new thicker gasket to see if it improves.
  11. Thanks for your reply Mark. I only use the electric pump when priming the system prior to starting but its is a low pressure Solex pump.
  12. Thanks for the info on the carb Hugh although that model is slightly different to mine being on a 29-25 where mine has 3 jets (idle, intermediate & high speed) I have similar issues and its driving me crazy. My problem is that I can get the engine to idle nicely but when trying to pull off or drive up a hill she will either backfire through the carburetor or the exhaust. I have done almost everything possible except what is causing this and now I'm thinking that carb has run its life and need changing. I will list what I have done in the hope that someone has an answer. What I have noticed recently is that to pull off the choke is needed but to accelerate hard then the choke needs pushing back in, so clearly she is running lean but only when at cruising speed. ENGINE WORK DONE Valve seats ground Valves cut & lapped in Head skimmed New head gasket Timing adjusted both by timing light & trial & error CARBURETOR WORK DONE Carburetor stripped & cleaned Idle needle replaced Float level raised Metering Pin seat replaced (worn after years of use) All work on carb as listed on Hughs post done. HEAT RISER New stainless steel tube fitted (now 34mm ID diameter) Both exhaust ends sealed Heat riser tube pressure tested Electric fuel pump fitted near the tank in line with the mechanical one. Now considering fitting a Rochester single barrel carburetor. Any suggestions will be very welcome 🙂
  13. Thanks Ray, I forgot to mention that I have blanked off the heat riser but the back firing through the carb can be stopped by pulling the choke out a bit. I have been looking at a replacement carb but its the timing that's worrying me.
  • Create New...