Jack Worstell

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About Jack Worstell

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    Senior Member
  • Birthday 01/27/1938

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Charleston WV

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  1. Sandy.….thanks for the tips...….sounds promising, I'll give these ideas a try. A product I like is "Mastercoat"....which is also a moisture cured isocyanate type coating. (and It has the disadvantages of an isocyanate based coating.) It has a dull aluminum sort of appearance and it is "toothy" which means you can apply a top coat with no need for surface prep e.g. no scuffing with sandpaper. Jack Worstell
  2. One disadvantage with POR 15 ( and probably also KBS....I'm pretty sure that both are isocyanate type coatings ) is poor shelf life after the can is opened. When I use it I...……… Dip out of the can with a new plastic spoon or ladle whatever I need for the task at hand Promptly put some Saran wrap over the can opening...….I don't leave the can open any longer than I have to. Then put the lid back on And I store it in a refrigerator ( non-food storage ) after the can has been opened And even so it has poor shelf life after the can has been opened, This is because moisture catalyzes the curing of isocyanate type coatings.....and it doesn't take moisture to cause this But is promptly applied it is PERMANENT. Jack Worstell
  3. We have a 1937 Special 4dr sedan trunk style. We cannot find the data plate......I thought it would be on the firewall or on the cowl...…...but it isn't. Were should it be ? Jack Worstell
  4. Matt Yes it is a big job …..to be avoided if possible We removed the torque tube/dive shaft/"pig" so that Lloyd could made the modifications and then of course we have to assemble everything back once he was finished A few months later we took everything back out and opened up the BW OD unit so we could add back the governor function and the speedometer function. And put it all back together again. And a few months later we took everything back out again and opened the OD unit back up....we thought there was a problem with the unit. We were wrong....it was just fine. False alarm that costs us a fair amount of time and effort. At this time....everything is working as it should including the governor function and the speedometer function So we feel for you...it is a pain to take the unit out and then have to put it back in. Jack Worstell
  5. For our 1937 Special we changed to an eight volt alternator and an eight volt battery. No other changes to the electrical system of the car. Much faster starting. Brighter lights. So far no downsides but long term I wouldn't be surprised to see some problems with 8v applied to 6V components eg light bulbs burn out sooner. But so far so good. A little risky to make this change but we feel the pros out-weigh the cons. If you should decide to go this route and have a 6V radio....I suggest you get a "buck converter" to drop the 8V to 6V for the radio. About $25 on Amazon. ( we haven't made this change yet but will eventually...the radio plays OK on 8V but we don't want to risk long term damage to a difficult to repair item ). The alternator is a standard Delco Remy 10 SI unit converted to 8V. Several vendors provide this service Resistors only work well for dropping voltage when the item at issue draws a more or less constant current This leaves out things like radios. variable speed DC motors, gas gauges etc There are limitations to using resistors as voltage dropping devices. Jack Worstell
  6. Matt A perplexing issue you have with your OD. If Lloyd couldn't solve these problems it's very unlikely I can add anything useful. But I have a few thoughts. First....I don't understand the being stranded part. Even if the solenoid is inoperable and even if the one-way clutch is shot ….you should still be able to pull out the control cable and keep driving as if the OD didn't exist. Pulling out the control cable locks the planetary gears together so you would be back to "direct drive" At least this is the way ours works. I am puzzled that the OD problem would cause you to be stranded...…………………... Second.....if the operation of the relay is temperamental then correspondingly the solenoid operation would likely be temperamental Maybe you have a problem with the relay and it shows up as a solenoid problem. I would be tempted to replace the relay.....a long shot I know but the relay is inexpensive and easy to replace If the relay doesn't work then the solenoid doesn't work. Thirdly...I suppose you have already checked all of the wiring...….but an erratic ground or open in the power to the relay or erratic open in the ground wire from the relay or an erratic open in the wire from the relay to the solenoid would all likely cause erratic operation of the solenoid Fourth...the oil leak. We have a seal in the rear of our OD unit and I'm pretty sure you would have one too. This keeps the OD oil from working its way back into the differential So if this seal is not right then you could lose oil into the differential Because of the torque tube configuration a leak of this kind wouldn't be visible' BUT ……….you say there is a "wet" spot caused by oil on a spot on the exterior of the case...... so I guess this rules out the rear seal as being the problem ?? When the car is parked for some time......does an oil puddle appear on the floor ??? For a leak caused by a defect in the casing.....Bloo's suggested solution should work I think I'd be tempted to use two-part epoxy paint to paint te interior of the case but I agree that Loctite and/or glyptal will work Bloo's suggestion is a fair among of time and effort....but if I had this problem I would follow his advice, Jack Worstell
  7. Bloo Since we have added back the governor to our set-up the overdrive will de-activate below about 26mph. So we don't have to be concerned about damage in reverse. But at any rate we always try to remember to pull out the control cable before going into reverse. If we should try to reverse with the control cable pushed in and the solenoid not powered up there will be no damage but the vehicle will not go anywhere because of the one-way clutch. Jack Worstell
  8. Matt Just curious ………...what part of your BW OD breaks ? and ………...the casting defect that causes the oil leak can you see the defect or can you otherwise pin down the location of the defect ? Jack Worstell
  9. PS WE could have lived with the unit just as Lloyd had set it up...it worked fine. It's just that we like the unit with the governor function ( and the speedometer function) added back even better. Jack
  10. Jim We started out with a Lloyd Young OD installed in our 1937 Special using it as he had set it up. But we ended up adding back the governor per factory and we like this better. It ends up being a sort of semi-automatic transmission and easier to drive. We also added back the speedometer drive function so our speedometer is accurate once again. The hardest part was securing the governor and speedometer drive gears back onto the output shaft of the BW unit. We had to remove the unit from the car and then take it apart so we could use LockTight to secure the two drive gears to the OD output shaft. The LockTight was Lloyd;s suggestion. I was skeptical....but it works You might wonder why we used LockTight. The answer is that when Lloyd modified the BW unit for our Special he removed the large nut at the end of the output shaft.....this nut...... ...among other things….provided compression such that the two drive gears had to rotate with the output shaft Jack Worstell
  11. ??? Your electric wipers....are they 12V or 6V or ? Jack Worstell
  12. I recall reading somewhere that dual carbs were standard in 1941 except that they were optional on series 40 and that in 1942 dual carbs were standard on all series. Is this info correct ? Jack Worstell
  13. So when shifting in and out of fourth gear { OD } you have to use the clutch ?? Jack Worstell
  14. I recall reading somewhere that dual carbs were standard in 1941 except that they were optional on series 40 and that in 1942 dual carbs were standard on all series. Is this correct info ? Jack Worstell