FLYER15015

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About FLYER15015

  • Rank
    '40 Buick Team Member
  • Birthday 12/17/1941

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  • Gender:
    Male
  • Location:
    Buena Vista, Colorado on the continental divide
  • Interests:
    Taking care if the "Baby", flying RC planes, and trail riding a ktm 525EXC.
    Now restoring a '31 Chrysler Imperial CG

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  • Biography
    ex engineer, now a casting sales rep

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  1. O.K. guys, here is a question for you. While installing my new drive shaft, I noticed a bit of diff oil dripping from the right side rear backing plate. The dreaded axle seal issue. So I ordered 2 new inner seals from "Hagens" @ about $12.00 each and plan to make my own felt outer seals. However, I noticed that the differential does not have a vent, and I am wondering if when things get hot the oil is expanding (like all hot things do ) and pushing thru the seals ? Oil level is "just" below the fill hole threads, when the car is on level ground, and under load. Therefore my question is, should I drill and tap the top of the diff and install a vent ? Sure would like to know if anyone else has done this and if so where is the best location ? For Spinny, certainly not right over the crown gear, but maybe off to the pinion gear side. I await your collective advice. Mike in Colorado
  2. X2 on Ron Kaarps in California !!! Had my "40 LTD done about 4 years ago in 304 stainless @ about 70 for the wheels and 80 for the master. Use regular brake fluid and she stops on a dime. I even drove out to visit w/ Ron (just west of Ontario, Ca.) and at that time his son was next door doing power brake rebuilding. Mike in Colorado
  3. Banjo Yup !!! Not only will you have to tear all the instruments out, you will need a complete wiring harness replacement. THAT is a major job............ From what I see and hear. Dave Kindig would not even think about this one. My opinion is that it looks cute, but it is just too far gone, and that is a real shame, but you have to be realistic. Mike in Colorado PS; if you are looking for a project, go to WWW.CARSONLINE.COM and find your MOST FAVORITE CAR EVER, in a condition you and handle and afford.
  4. Most of us pull that little filter at the front of the head, where the oil line goes in and never look back !!! The line comes from the bypass oil filter anyway so it is "clean" oil. Mike in Colorado
  5. Banjo, Are you sure you want this one ? You are going to have to start on the ground floor (wiring, brakes, motor, and body work) and that is going to take much more $$$$$$$ than she will be worth when you get done. She looks like a "donner" to me. If it was a Colorado or Wyoming car with a solid body, I would say yes, but if the bed is gone, then chances are the floor pan is also gone and that is a major issue, UNLESS you are getting the car as a gift. Just my opinion. 'course I'm old enough, that I don't buy green banana's. Mike in Colorado
  6. Banjo, You do not FILL the reservoir. There should be a raised bar molded in it, somewhere about half way up. That is your fill to line. It needs some expansion room when hot. You have a cap on the radiator, which you should use when you flush out the radiator and block, which should also have a drain "petcock" down on the side somewhere. The reservoir does have a screw on cap you can find at any Autozone or NAPA store. It is part of the pressurized system as Spinny explained above I so hate it when he is right and succinct. Mike in Colorado
  7. When I pulled the manifolds on my '40 LTD (single carb) the damper was so stuck open, there was no hope of freeing it up, so I fabricated a plate from 14 gage sheet metal and brazed it to what was left of the shaft in the closed position and never looked back. Pont35cpe is right in that pulling the gas tank is a must. Then put a BIG clear fuel filter back at the tank, so you can check for trash. Mike in Colorado
  8. That is a real good idea........ When I lifted the hood off my '31 Imperial, we slipped 2 2x4's sideways under the hood, about 3' apart, undid the front bolt for the hinge, and lifted and walked forward. Put her back the same way. but backwards. Mike in Colorado
  9. YUP ! With a bar, it's no big deal. With a rope, you had better check the brakes. Or use an OLD truck to tow with. You could jack her up and throw some plywood under her. But looking at the pictures, that looks like rattlesnake country to me. Keep the hounds close by................. Mike
  10. Pulling the pan is no big deal. Sure will kill a Saturday though. Just be careful of the seals at each end. On my big Buick strt 8 I have to have #1 at TDC to get the pan out of the car. Front cross member is kind of close. You may have to do something similar. Make sure the bolts are clean when you put them back in. I soak mine in a glass jar w/ gas for a day or so then wire brush them clean. Your 1st purchase (after the car) must be a "Mechanic's handbook" for her, Then a parts book ! You will thank us later for these............... Mike
  11. Congratulations Peter !!!! So glad she's found a good home. It's just too bad Colorado has lost another beautiful Buick. We don't have that many to spare. Mike in Colorado
  12. Remove and take to car wash............ Let dry in sun, or use a compressor to blow out then place in sun.
  13. You could pull the seats out and pull the inner door panels off to get at the latches. Re the motor, don't even think about turning it over, till you pull the pan and clean it out. Then FILL each cylinder with Marvel Mystery Oil thru the plug hole and let it sit for at least a day. Turn her over a half a rev and refill and let sit another day. Do your oil change when you put the pan back on, leave the plugs out, lay an old towel over the plug holes, and hit the starter. Turn her over a dozen revs and install the new plugs. Prime the carb with either and fire her up. You will know right away if she was sitting with the points open or closed. Open is better. That's how we freed up a 7 cylinder "Jake" on our Waco 7, after she hung in a museum for 25 years. Wasn't a mosquito to be seen for several miles upon start up. I would drain and re fill the Tx, transfer, and diff also. And the brakes all need to be bled, but you knew that. I had one of those with the big motor in it and boy did it sound good with a couple of cherry bombs hung under the doors and a 4" dump pipe. Mike in Colorado
  14. Were it mine, I would high pressure wash it, (at the car wash) and submerge it in EVAP-O- RUST. IT WILL NOT HARM SOFT METAL. And it is also biodegradable Worked wonders on my '40 Buick cooling system.. Mike in Colorado
  15. My '31 Imperial was quite a bit stiffer steering than my '40 buick LTD also. After tuning both suspensions per the books, and a good lube job on both they were a little better. Both have "Armstrong " steering, but I found adding about 5 more pounds of air in the fronts helped quite a bit. We don't do a lot of high speed driving though, but around town we do putt-putt (tour stately) quite a bit, and it helps. Mike in Colorado