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Century Eight

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  1. Ha ha, I always hated green cars too, but when I was raising three kids and needed a van for the fam, a Firebird for my daughter, or a pickup for myself, the green ones were always the ones a dealer or an individual would make a deal on. The only exception was my green 70 Chevelle 396 SS that I had decided to buy when the dealer had already committed it to a paint shop. I wanted it red but it had a green interior, so I decided to ignore the color. It was too good to pass up and now I get compliments on it because its so ‘’ retro”. As they used to say, no sale green and resale red. But today, if it’s not grey, white, or black, you’’re probably going to be walking.
  2. At one time, I owned four green cars at the same time. You could always get a deal on them and they were cheaper than red cars!
  3. If you find a fuel pump, would not be a bad idea to have it rebuilt before you go. They dry out on the shelf, and with today’s gas, you don’t know how an unknown pump will react to the ethanol. Over the years I have been stopped by several fuel pumps. I have used Terrill Machine in TX several times for rebuilds and would use them again, they can be found in the Buick Bugle or Hemmings.. I envy your trip.
  4. I was 26 when I bought my ‘50 Super and have enjoyed it ever since. That was 46 years ago and still liking it. Was my second car and simple for a non-mechanic to work on.
  5. Growing up in the fifties, that’s all we knew and had. I’ve used those hundreds of times but the removable part that fits between the bumper and the jack pictured looks a little more unsafe than most of them, with not much of a lip to go under the bumper. When my Dad got a three legged screw jack I thought that was great. If you have ever seen the jack supplied with a ‘40 Buick, now that’s a widow maker! Glad they make portable hydraulic jacks so affordable and user friendly these days
  6. Hi Steve, I just noticed your post and I have the identical car. For the parts, I would keep checking the BCA Bugle. You will probably find the gas gage is fine but your sending unit in the tank is shot. There are a lot of good discussions on the forum about remedying this. I had been putting off my transmission for years but finally wanted to get it taken care of last year. Before taking it off the car, we decided to service it and that’s all it needed. Of course it leaked but that’s because the 70 year old seals were bad so we changed those and we put in a new thrust pad. What I was surprised about, was how clogged the screen was and it still worked fine. That clog really got my attention. So I would start by servicing the trans while it’s still in the car instead of rebuilding it. At the same time you will have stopped most of the leaks. Then driving it may cure some more leaks. phil
  7. I had an 86 Dodge van with the dog dish hub caps and it threw two of them, one at a time. It wore radials, and on one occasion, i remember hitting a big bump.
  8. Thanks Matt. I know from lowering a coupe top it was pretty straight forward and I will try the phaeton, and not to steal ericmac’s thread but the top on this car had hardly been used before i got it.
  9. When you get done lowering the top, please wright a treatise on what you did! Matt has some very good suggestions and gave me the same advise last year when I asked the same question for my 40 Buick Century phaeton it although I haven’t tried it yet. It is probably as mindless as rolling down the window, but even though I am over 70, it have never seen it done. It is probably a two man job but one guy I met at a show several years ago had cut some small wooden pieces of a one by four to brace the frame as he lowered it into the boot so as not to pitch the material and was doing it by himself. Funny all those tops worked the same but if you look for Cad, Buick, Packard etc manuals on the same subject, you can not find anything. It’s just like knowing how to crank start a car without braking your arm. 100 years ago they assumed we know what we are doing! There should be a service bulletin called “first time top lowering for dummies.”
  10. While I pride myself on how fast I can change a tire, after two torn rotator cuffs, I splurged and got the AAA roadside assistance. I should get the longer distance towing, but one time i was sick as a dog, and another time i was in my suit, 1/2 mile from church and just picked up the phone and watched them changed my modern car tire. It was great! It was quick service, but there are times they cannot get right to you and you may have to use someone else. That happened to me for a tow, but then they reimbursed me to a certain extent after asking.
  11. All great points, try to put the slowest car in front, consider breaking into two sections if you have more than 12 cars and in the daylight, , consider keeping your headlights off in order to use them as a signal to the car in front of you, that you all need to pull over if someone has been separated behind you. Stay maybe about a telephone pole distance apart so you don’t get too stretched out. Again - a cellphone contact on your directions.
  12. The two sides have different diameter hoses and i am not near my car to tell you which is which. Years ago there used to be vendors around, such as at Buick nationals or Hershey etc that would have both sizes, though I cant tell you who that would be now. Maybe someone else on here knows. You can go to the metal duct in front of the radiator and measure each side. You will also notice one side has a rubber molding around it while the other side just has sharp metal edges. This is correct, you re not missing one of the moldings. The best answer I ever got for the difference was for some sort of noise reduction in one of the vents, but but couldn’t confirm this very well. More importantly, that hose you mentioned with the very heavy cloth material was correct. It kind of looked like a wide black duct tape. My original 1950 Super model 52 that I bought 46 years ago with less than 13 thousand miles still has that hose on one side. I have seen those hoses on other old original cars.
  13. Great car, Ive had a 50 super for 47 years. My radio died soon after I got it, and then I pulled the radio and got it fixed. It was the vibrator tube. Recently, after an 8 year sleep, it quit again, but I drove around when I got it back on the road, and inadvertently left the radio on. It started working again, and I suppose the vibrator tube needed to be nudged. The moral of this story is, now whenever I drive it, I run the radio for a bit, to exercise the tubes, even though the radio signal and station sucks. Now it is still working after a year and has that great old sound you can buy on a modern radio.
  14. My 1950 Super that I bought with under 13 thousand miles on it 46 years ago had no undercoating. Like Rocketraider said, its probably 71 years of grease. If you are not scraping grease or crud, it would probably be rust.. I’d opt for the grease and crud. You probably are benefitting from old oil leaks by the locations you mentioned.
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