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Century Eight

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Everything posted by Century Eight

  1. If you find a fuel pump, would not be a bad idea to have it rebuilt before you go. They dry out on the shelf, and with today’s gas, you don’t know how an unknown pump will react to the ethanol. Over the years I have been stopped by several fuel pumps. I have used Terrill Machine in TX several times for rebuilds and would use them again, they can be found in the Buick Bugle or Hemmings.. I envy your trip.
  2. I was 26 when I bought my ‘50 Super and have enjoyed it ever since. That was 46 years ago and still liking it. Was my second car and simple for a non-mechanic to work on.
  3. Growing up in the fifties, that’s all we knew and had. I’ve used those hundreds of times but the removable part that fits between the bumper and the jack pictured looks a little more unsafe than most of them, with not much of a lip to go under the bumper. When my Dad got a three legged screw jack I thought that was great. If you have ever seen the jack supplied with a ‘40 Buick, now that’s a widow maker! Glad they make portable hydraulic jacks so affordable and user friendly these days
  4. Hi Steve, I just noticed your post and I have the identical car. For the parts, I would keep checking the BCA Bugle. You will probably find the gas gage is fine but your sending unit in the tank is shot. There are a lot of good discussions on the forum about remedying this. I had been putting off my transmission for years but finally wanted to get it taken care of last year. Before taking it off the car, we decided to service it and that’s all it needed. Of course it leaked but that’s because the 70 year old seals were bad so we changed those and we put in a new thrust pad. What I was surprised about, was how clogged the screen was and it still worked fine. That clog really got my attention. So I would start by servicing the trans while it’s still in the car instead of rebuilding it. At the same time you will have stopped most of the leaks. Then driving it may cure some more leaks. phil
  5. I had an 86 Dodge van with the dog dish hub caps and it threw two of them, one at a time. It wore radials, and on one occasion, i remember hitting a big bump.
  6. Thanks Matt. I know from lowering a coupe top it was pretty straight forward and I will try the phaeton, and not to steal ericmac’s thread but the top on this car had hardly been used before i got it.
  7. When you get done lowering the top, please wright a treatise on what you did! Matt has some very good suggestions and gave me the same advise last year when I asked the same question for my 40 Buick Century phaeton it although I haven’t tried it yet. It is probably as mindless as rolling down the window, but even though I am over 70, it have never seen it done. It is probably a two man job but one guy I met at a show several years ago had cut some small wooden pieces of a one by four to brace the frame as he lowered it into the boot so as not to pitch the material and was doing it by himself. Funny all those tops worked the same but if you look for Cad, Buick, Packard etc manuals on the same subject, you can not find anything. It’s just like knowing how to crank start a car without braking your arm. 100 years ago they assumed we know what we are doing! There should be a service bulletin called “first time top lowering for dummies.”
  8. While I pride myself on how fast I can change a tire, after two torn rotator cuffs, I splurged and got the AAA roadside assistance. I should get the longer distance towing, but one time i was sick as a dog, and another time i was in my suit, 1/2 mile from church and just picked up the phone and watched them changed my modern car tire. It was great! It was quick service, but there are times they cannot get right to you and you may have to use someone else. That happened to me for a tow, but then they reimbursed me to a certain extent after asking.
  9. All great points, try to put the slowest car in front, consider breaking into two sections if you have more than 12 cars and in the daylight, , consider keeping your headlights off in order to use them as a signal to the car in front of you, that you all need to pull over if someone has been separated behind you. Stay maybe about a telephone pole distance apart so you don’t get too stretched out. Again - a cellphone contact on your directions.
  10. The two sides have different diameter hoses and i am not near my car to tell you which is which. Years ago there used to be vendors around, such as at Buick nationals or Hershey etc that would have both sizes, though I cant tell you who that would be now. Maybe someone else on here knows. You can go to the metal duct in front of the radiator and measure each side. You will also notice one side has a rubber molding around it while the other side just has sharp metal edges. This is correct, you re not missing one of the moldings. The best answer I ever got for the difference was for some sort of noise reduction in one of the vents, but but couldn’t confirm this very well. More importantly, that hose you mentioned with the very heavy cloth material was correct. It kind of looked like a wide black duct tape. My original 1950 Super model 52 that I bought 46 years ago with less than 13 thousand miles still has that hose on one side. I have seen those hoses on other old original cars.
  11. Great car, Ive had a 50 super for 47 years. My radio died soon after I got it, and then I pulled the radio and got it fixed. It was the vibrator tube. Recently, after an 8 year sleep, it quit again, but I drove around when I got it back on the road, and inadvertently left the radio on. It started working again, and I suppose the vibrator tube needed to be nudged. The moral of this story is, now whenever I drive it, I run the radio for a bit, to exercise the tubes, even though the radio signal and station sucks. Now it is still working after a year and has that great old sound you can buy on a modern radio.
  12. My 1950 Super that I bought with under 13 thousand miles on it 46 years ago had no undercoating. Like Rocketraider said, its probably 71 years of grease. If you are not scraping grease or crud, it would probably be rust.. I’d opt for the grease and crud. You probably are benefitting from old oil leaks by the locations you mentioned.
  13. I bought one from CARS last fall. I use both vendors, both good. Just depends on their inventory and your location.
  14. Like WMSUE said, use the old reliable trap. If you can remember where you left it, you just might find a dead mouse in it. Just dont put it back in the glovebox
  15. Sometimes these show up on eBay or elsewhere. I have bought the smaller size (263) for the shelf and later used it. Check some of the parts dealers such as CARS, Bobs and others. Someone was making new ones for the 320 engine but they are a bit pricey, as are those you find in a flea market, if the seller knows what he has. I would buy one as an insurance item until you sell the car. They crack.
  16. I’m just seeing your post now and you have a very nice car, just like the one that served me well back in the day. I just want to say after living in Northeast Ohio years ago, be glad your uncle ziebarted the car or you wouldn’t have it to talk about, as it would have seen the crusher long ago. With my cars, I just accept certain deductions and correct as many others as I can. The guy next to you will, and is, going to have some of his own deductions (maybe). Enjoy.
  17. They also look like my ‘50 gauges but I am not near the car at the moment
  18. Why cant you blow it? Looks like an Interurban (streetcar) whistle to me, which would be an air whistle. I have several and they blow easily on 50 psi or more. Steam, from a Steam engine probably takes over 125 to 150 psi . I have mine piped from my air compressor with a valve and blow it to release the air when i shut down the compressor. Finding the right kind of valve is not easy, but you could fashion another valve. The grandkids love it when I blow it. It would be a fun event at the museum once a month, or once a year, or every day when the museum closes!
  19. Good choice, you’re gonna like it. Very roadworthy.
  20. Maybe we agree, clear coat may not be the correct terminology. Anything to stop the active rust. Definitely not shiny. Some type of coating that will stop the rust, then you dont have a ton of money in it, you can sort out the mechanicals and have enjoyment if you have other garage queens.
  21. Not on the tour, but allow time for the Maritime museum about a half mile from the Motor Museum
  22. Have you considered one or more bad motor mounts? I was helping a friend wale up a 64 LeSabre a few years ago,(totally different) and it was making crazy noises, on acceleration. Exhaust was new, manifolds and everything tight, but the engine would move and pull the exhaust making a scrape sound as well as a leak noise under aggressive acceleration.
  23. Clear coat it in satin, then fix up the mechanicals and drive the s..t out of it. You will have tons of fun, and appreciate/preserve your other rides as well.
  24. When i got my twelve thousand mile all original 50 Buick Super, it had remnants of the grey insulation glued to the hood with something like furnace cement. At the time, there was no grey insulation available so I had to use the yellow furnace insulation. That was 46 years ago. Still have it, with 20,000 miles on it now. It was cut into rectangles and cemented between the frames but did not have any paper backing from the factory.
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