53 New Yorker

Ah... Thank you for your insight. I did order new rubber seals from CARS and I can't get them to slide onto the inner bearing race, because they seem too tight or the hole in the middle isn't quite large enough. OR... ARE they supposed to be THAT tight?

I'm still into the brakes of my 1940 Buick, and found out I needed new front grease seals. The question I have is: Why is the old seal and the new seal so different? The old seal came out, and there is another piece of metal in there that looks like a "flange" of sorts. The seal fit into it. The new seal is ONLY the seal... and doesn't fit down into this "flange". Am I supposed to take this "flange" out of the hub and install the new seal into the hub like most wheels? Did Buick make different types of seals at this time? Did I order the wrong thing? Are there optional sizes of seals? I sure would appreciate some advice and shared knowledge about what I've got on my hands here.... The pictures L to R are the old seal, then the seal removed but the "flange" still in place, and then a picture of the side for a better idea of what I have here Cheers, Bill

Have you considered taking the top off the car, Washing it in HOT water, and putting it in the dryer on High Temp Tumble? This worked really well for the wool sweater I got caught in the rain with once... Shrank that sweater in no time flat!!! Seriously.... Like Paul said...Take it to the folks who installed it and see if they would do a service on it for you. Otherwise, you'll just have to drive below 25 mph to keep it from flapping.

Hello Paul, Thank you for stepping in and adding to this thread... AND for the correction about your Zenith Carbs. As I was writing my last post, I actually thought.." I hope I've got the correct kind of carb" in my thoughts... Cheers, Wm (Bill)

Good Morning Brooklyn Beer, The 28's were still running (thankfully) on a vacuum tank, and the one in my 1925 11A has been very dependable, and never given me any trouble (20 yrs. now). I will keep the vacuum tank set up in my '28' when I have it on the road again. Franklin went to a mechanical fuel pump in 29, and they are very difficult to rebuild, and they are very rare. The pictures I see on the Franklin Web site do not show the carb side of the engine... you'll have to ask the owners what this car has for a carb set up. Since you are asking this question, I'm thinking, you've already talked to someone about the original carbs on these cars and their problems, so I will not go into that. BUT, most of these cars that were regularly in "service", have had some other form of carb installed on them... there are plenty of options, AND, there is a Franklin member who is now offering a direct replacement set up of a carter carb... Ready to go in place.. if you happen to need it. He is on this forum and is respected in the Franklin Club. Will make sure you have contact with him when you need it. Perhaps you've already been speaking to him.... Brown tires? Hmmmm.... Well, any number of things... Perhaps they drove it on some dirt roads the last time it was out, before going into it's 9 year rest, or perhaps it is an optical illusion of the lighting and camera, or maybe just some sort of dusty anomaly, maybe what ever they used for tire "dressing" has turned brown over the time it was off the road. I don't think I would give it much thought... just be sure to scrub the tires really good the first time you give it a bath. Tee He He 😉 BTW... I'm pretty sure you can get a reprint of the 1928 Parts catalog and maybe even a reprint of the 1928 owner's manual. Most people are fearful of dealing with a car that is unusual, like Franklins and their Air Cooled engines, But it is a 1920's car, and relatively straight forward in it's design. Franklins were very well built cars and used high quality materials... There is a strong following in the club, and plenty of people who are very supportive when you need help or an elusive part. Keep in touch, and I hope I've been of some help. Do not hesitate to reach out to me with any other questions. Cheers, Wm.

Brooklyn Beer, I hear what you are saying, my friend. But, cleaning out the fuel lines and gas tank is easy breezy. The brake system shouldn't give you any more trouble than your late 1940's era Dodge, you show in your profile picture... and actually, a little less trouble, since the Franklin will not have double front wheel cylinders to deal with. Actually, I was able to buy new wheel cylinders, from NAPA for my 1928 Franklin 12A Conv't Coupe'. I think I also got a new Master Cylinder rebuild kit as well... I can get you the part numbers if you need them. Franklin built a very good car, and the 12A's have a more powerful engine than the 11A's... and with four wheel brakes, this would be a rather nice tour car, if you are out with other 1920's era cars. You've already discovered how helpful the Franklin Club members can be. I'm sure you'll do what you feel comfortable doing about purchasing a 1920's era car... Cheers, Wm.

Is it on a pallet and could you post a photo of it showing exactly what a person would be buying? Thank you Wm.

To answer your question about the engine rubbing against the firewall... I think you are probably seeing an optical illusion from the position of the camera angle. I have a 1925 Franklin 11A sedan with the typical frame sag, and a 1928 12A convertible Coupe' with frame sag... the engine in either of these cars has not started rubbing against the firewall. I've been driving the 11A for about 20 years now, and the sag never seems to get worse. I think the car you are looking at on the Franklin Web site is a very handsome car, that is from a family that has had it, and loved it for almost 50 years. That says a lot right there about the car. Probably gave them miles and miles of carefree touring over the years. The price is very VERY fair and you should consider joining The Franklin Club if you follow through with purchasing the car. attached a picture of my 1925 Franklin 11A sedan Good Luck and cheers, William

Thanks Guys... Ben, I'll try the wire trick... I saw a video post of a fellow who was starting up his 1940 for the first time, and the oil was pulsing out of those hole... this is why I thought my engine should be doing the same thing, and it isn't. I will have to follow up on this later... as I've just taken the fuel pump off for rebuilding... I do not want to run the engine with the fuel pump missing. BTW... where can I find the modern replacement number for a new oil filter?

Still NO oil squirting out of the little holes on the top of the rocker arms! Someone beat me to taking out the little screen in the front of the head... but I did have to clean a little gunk out of the passage. The restricter is clear... and I have really good oil pressure up in that fitting to the cam. Plenty of oil flowing down the valve lifter rods, but no oil spurting out of the ports on the top of the rockers.... Anyone have any idea what could be the problem? Am I thinking way too much into this...? I would think the oil that is supposed to squirt out of the top of the rocker arms is what should bounce of the inside of the valve cover, and fall on the valve springs/stems and lubricate them... yes?

I've also read in the shop manual a note about a small open ended screen where the oil lint to the rocker assembly arm is attached to the cylinder head. it says this screen can be removed by using a wood screw as a "puller" device. Is it wise to remove this screen? Where would I get a replacement?

Hello Buick friends, I'm wondering if I should see oil squirting out of the ports on the rocker arms when the 1940 straight 8 engine is running, but I have the valve cover off? I just started the car for the first time in 15 years of sitting... and I have oil pressure at the filter inlet line and the line leading to the side of the head, but I'm not getting oil squirting out of the valve train. I changed the oil, but haven't put a new filter in yet. Any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Cheers

Hello All, I've been learning even more from this post than expected. For instance... I didn't know I would have to remove the rear axles in order to grease the bearings. This sounds like a difficult task, AND, I'm reading, that is should be done every 10K miles! Isn't there a grease fitting for doing this? I also learned that I'll have to bleed the stop light switch. OK... that seems easy enough. No one turns brake drums anymore... because everyone has sold their equipment for doing this job... How do I go about finding a person to do this for me, if my drums need to be trued? (I had to have the drums turned on my 1953 Chrysler back in the 80's... went to the local parts house and they did it for me. They got out of doing this task many years ago too) Does anyone know if there is another shop manual that will give me better "step by step" information on how to service this Buick? I've been reading the manual I bought for 1940 Buicks... and no finding some of the information y'all are sharing with me. Cheers, Wm

Thank you 1940Super! That is very helpful.

This is great !!! And only a few hours drive from where I am, if I need to travel over there. Cheers, Wm