53 New Yorker

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

10 Good

About 53 New Yorker

  • Rank
  • Birthday 07/13/1964

Profile Information

  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Northern Indiana County, Pennsylvania
  • Interests:
    1910 Diamond T Roadster Model D (unrestored)
    1914 American LaFrance Speedster (Lots of fun to drive)
    1925 Franklin Model 11A sedan
    1928 Franklin Convertible Coupe'
    1926 Chrysler "70" restoration project
    1948 Chrysler Windsor
    1953 Chrysler New Yorker Have owned it since college
    1967 Buick Electra 25

    Currently, President of the H.H. Franklin Car Club
    member of: AACA
    Horseless Carriage Club of America
    H.H. Franklin Club
    Walter P. Chrysler club

Recent Profile Visitors

347 profile views
  1. Hello Keithb7.... Thank you for posting the video of adjusting the valves! That was/is awesome! I was reading the shop manual today and was confused when it said to adjust the valves with the engine warm and while it is running! I thought they must have made a mistake in the manual... But, you just expertly showed how it is done! thank you. The manual for the 48 also mentions taking an inner panel out in the wheel well area. Cheers, Wm.
  2. Hello Everyone, You've given me some easy things to look for... And I will try to get through them, to see if it turns out being something easy and an "inexpensive fix" and will let you know how it goes. On the other hand, with regard to the #6 valve not closing... and perhaps a weak or broken spring, or perhaps, it just needs to be adjusted properly... I looked at the engine, and I can see there is a sort of "wing nut" hidden behind the manifolds that holds the cover in place... This looks like you have to be a very flexible contortionist to get in there and work on setting the valves behind the manifolds. Can you really get in there, with tools and a gauge without taking the manifolds off ? Cheers, and thank you for all your incredibly useful feedback
  3. Hello Fellow Chrysler friends, I've started having problems with my 1948 Windsor, and can't seem to track down the issues, and make the car reliable for driving and touring. When I start the car, it runs and idles beautifully. But as I get out of the driveway and things start to warm up,(not even a 1/4 mile down the road) it loses power, backfires through the carb, and generally can't get out of it's own way. If I let up on the gas, it will run and idle really well. Put my "foot in it" and it starts backfiring and seems to "bog down". I also know... I have either a burned intake valve or it needs to be adjusted in the number 6 cylinder... there is about 40 lbs of pressure in that cylinder... while the other 5 have anywhere from 95 to 100 lbs of pressure. And, when I'm accelerating, I can hear the tell tale "popping" sound through the carb, of the pressure in #6 going up through the intake manifold and carb. I'm thinking, I should do what the "old timers" used to call a "Ring and Valve Job" to deal with the weak #6 cylinder. But I still have the lose of power/ backfiring issue. I've put new tune up parts in, and cleaned the plugs. I also checked to see that fuel deliver isn't the issue. Has anyone in here had a similar problem? How difficult is it to do a "top end" rebuild? Can I order up gaskets, parts, and just take things apart and then put it back together again with new valves and rings... or is there more to it than that? If this is more than a "I can do my own maintenance" on my cars... oil changes, brake jobs, tune ups, type work... should I ask someone else to get into the engine? I'm afraid, if I take everything apart, and have a deeper problem, or the usual broken bolts in the head or the manifolds... I'll be sunk for trying to deal with them. General maintenance I'm good with... an engine rebuild I've never done before. Local people I've talked with, and my 90 year old godfather have said... the Spitfire 6 is "bullet proof" and easy to work on.... I'm not so sure.. :-) Anyone with any advice for me, would be greatly appreciated
  4. I have had a similar problem with my starter button on the dash of my 1948 Windsor. What I've discovered is: If it doesn't engage the starter when I try the first or second time pushing it... I jiggle the key in the ignition switch, while keeping the button pushed in. This is often works. Long story short... I think my ignition switch is the issue.
  5. 53 New Yorker

    Gas tank

    You could also give Moyer's in Jeanette PA (just south of Greensburg) a call. speak with Jim. He just finished restoring the tank for my 28 Conv't Coupe' and has worked on other Franklin Club members tanks. They are very familiar with early and vintage gas tanks, and are easy to deal with. http://www.gas-tank.com/ Bill W.
  6. Will he be posting photos to go along with the ad?
  7. will you be posting photos of the car? It ran when you got it? When or how long ago was that? Do you know what transmission is in it? Thanks
  8. Personal experience.... When I was young (18 yrs old) and had just bought my 1953 New Yorker, It turned over rather slowly, as if it wasn't going to "get there". My father said I should put an 8V battery in it and it should be fine. Conversation went something like this.. Dad, "Those damn 6V systems were lousy, even back then, That is why they all went to 12V" Me, " But it is a 6V system" Dad, "It won't hurt anything, and your starter will turn it over like it is supposed to" I doubted Chrysler meant for an 8V battery to be in there... What about the lights and gauges, I wondered to myself. So, I asked my Grandfather's Brother, who was a Texaco service station owner after the war... He said, "Get your starter rebuilt" and gave me the name and number of an old fellow to take it to. I re-installed the starter after I got the call to come pick it up, and DANG, if it didn't turn over like the day the car was new! That was 35 years ago. The starter still turns the engine over with "gusto" ! BTW.. I still have the "modified" 5/8ths open end wrench rattling around in my tool box, just in case I ever have to get that almost hidden nut off and pull the starter. My advice: Find an old fellow who rebuilds starters and generators, and have a set of brushes installed and have it checked over. Keep with 6V!
  9. Thanks for the leads... Bernbaums has them listed in their catalog for 2.00 ea. But shipping is 13.00! Robert's shipping on 2 of them is 15.00! This is a part that can be put in an envelop and sent with a Forever Stamp on it!!!! What the heck!???
  10. Hello Keithb7. I'm thinking the same thing about re-sleeving the original unit, and that way, keeping the one that came with the car from the factory, with the car. I'm going to be looking for a place to do the re-sleeving. BTW... I used your 13/16ths open end wrench method of getting those "c" clips off. Do you know where I can get replacements for them? I must have done something "not quite right" because mine became bent and out of shape.
  11. Well... Today is a "Day off" for me, So I screwed up my courage and went out to the garage to address getting the M Cylinder out of the car. I had a little trouble with that huge return spring for the clutch pedal. I didn't realize the nut on that adjustment end of it is actually very "deep" and I un-screwed it to the point that I thought I could get the spring tension down far enough to deal with getting the "clip" off the pedal linkage. I used a crow-bar and huge screw driver to finally get the linkage apart... Don't even try to imagine what I was doing under the dash with a crow bar.... LOL Anyway... I now know better, and getting that spring back in place shouldn't be 1/2 as difficult now. Although, I'm already scratching my head, wondering how I'm going get all this stuff back together when the time comes. But, for now, I have the Critter (M/Cylinder) out of the car and I've cleaned off most of the 67 years of much and mire! Taken some pictures and starting to evaluate if it can be re-built, or re-sleeved, or if it just needs to be re-placed with new. BTW... please take note of the fitting for the line that goes back to the brake booster assist. I'll enter another update once I've taken the innards out of it and can tell what my next step should be.
  12. hey there Keithb7 & c49er These pictures and explanation are Terrific ! This is going to be a great help for me. THANK YOU!
  13. I agree... All that grease and grime didn't preserve them very well... It looks like they are compression fittings, and I should be able to have them made by just about anyone. Even myself... if pressed. Too bad I can't just call up to parts counter at my local Chrysler/DeSoto/Dodge/Plymouth dealership and order that line. Bwa Ha Ha
  14. Decided to take some picture of the 67 years of grime .. and of the master cylinder, and that extra line on the top of the MC that runs back to the booster canister. 1st picture is from the top ( please notice that huge return spring on the clutch pedal! How do you get that off, and on again? 2nd picture is from below the car 3rd picture is of the lines to the booster that is tucked up in the frame of the car, below the driver's seat area
  15. Yup, I figured the same thing as well.... Time for a new one. I highly doubt it wouldn't have pitting after all these years. I've replaced the wheel cylinders twice over the years... Now it is time for the Master Cylinder. I just got home from work, and will call Mobilparts.