FLYER15015

Members
  • Content Count

    1,997
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by FLYER15015

  1. X2 on what Marty said. Most welding supply houses have short bits of (00) or (000) cable they will give you, or charge very little for. You can buy the copper ends from them and solder them together yourself. Make an extra and run it from the bell housing to the frame. 6 volt systems like a good ground. Mike in Colorado
  2. There is a running "Big Boy" in the Cheyene, Wy. yard. It is a 4-8-8-4 and with it's tender, as long as a train, so to speak Mike in Colorado
  3. I saw 6 black fiberglass "sleds" that looked from a distance just like that car, in Salida Colorado just after they finished filming some of "The Fate of the Furious" up on Monarch pass (U.S. 50) a while back. Sorry, I did not think to take pictures, but I won't forget them. They looked quite forlorn on the trailer. Like old war horses. Mike in Colorado
  4. Try "Bob's Automobilia" in California for the packing if you want to do it yourself. OR, send the leaker to "The Flying Dutchman" for a rebuild, and it will work like new.!!!!! Now take a good look at your frost /freeze plugs. I did my '40 LTD and ended up replacing 3 plugs. That stuff does a good job............. Mike in Colorado
  5. Storage location (in the weeds) is criminal, and should be prosecuted ! Will someone please bail this car out................... Mike in Colorado
  6. Hey Nick, I have 4" on my series 90, and they are "Martin's". Good luck with that. Were I to replace them, I would choose the "Lester" 4" bias ply tire. Mike in Colorado
  7. Tom, Since your "can" looks like mine, here is your oil filter cross reference chart. You are welcome, Mike in Colorado
  8. When I replaced all the wheel cylinders, hoses and master cylinder on my '31 Chrysler, I used a harbor freight brake bleeding suction gun. Did it all by myself. Started at the farthest wheel RR, then LR then RF and then LF. Filled master cylinder twice per wheel 'cause it does not hold much. Went back and repeated the sequence a second time just to check for air = there was none. Rock solid pedal now. Mike in Colorado
  9. I told you Matt would know. And he mentioned the potential overheating concerns too. So, did you do the frost plug mod to your bypass valve ? PS; LOVE the heater hose shut off. I did the same thing to my '31 Chrysler. Mike in Colorado
  10. Valk, Looking at your second picture, and were it me, I would place them just a bit "outboard". Say centered on the outer edge of the grille. I think the style and size are perfect for a '41. 1941's are a bit too late for a big round Guide fog light. The expert here would be Matt Harwood, or Edinmass. I feel sorry for you guys with those "newer" cars with splash pans. HAHA............ Just my $ .02 and worth every penny. Mike in Colorado
  11. Here is how I did mine based on an old picture.
  12. I'm with Ben, and still use my circa 60's Craftsman beam type torque wrench. If I want 90 #, I pull on it till the little pointer says 90. Being up in years, I will some times put a cheater pipe on the handle. It still reads 90 # weather I use my hands or a 6' pipe. And I sleep like a baby at night, Unless I start thinking about my water pump bearings..................... But that's for another thread. Mike in Colorado
  13. 1. put key in switch. 2. Put selector in "Park". 3. Turn key clockwise, all the way. 4. Step on tall skinny pedal on the right. 5 Hear VROOOM VROOM
  14. Per our "friend" Mr. Google, the split cotter pin was invented by Mr. Ira J. Young in 1912 in St Louis. Not Harry Cotter. Wasn't he a kid magician ? Boy, we're really off track now................ Mike in Colorado
  15. That will work fine. Most of the time, I just use my "Leatherman". Never leave home without it. Mike in Colorado
  16. Ooops, I had better take the nail out of the Buick's right front axle nut. Been in there for about 4 years now. Mike in Colorado
  17. I'm with Maok on my '31. Lift the floor board. Slip an 8" piece of silicone tube over the nozzle. Plug it into the fill / check plug hole. Lay the bottle across the top of the TX. Go have a beer and watch motocross. Come back in an hour and discard the bottle. Save the tube for next time. PS; Put pan under TX to catch the overflow Mike in Colorado
  18. I set my '31 CG up with one spoke at twelve o'clock, based on advise from an old forum post. Don't know how they came off the assembly line. Mike in Colorado
  19. Considering what all the other makes of cars looked like in '36 (boxes on wheels and square grilles), this has to be considered the "original Batmobile". Has to be the first ever car with a drive shaft hump in the rear floor. Something people had to get used to. Yea, I know someone will prove me wrong, but it's the thought that counts. I love it !!!!! Mike in Colorado
  20. My '31 Imperial (CG) has a 145" wheel base. I think the '32's were the same. Body number is 69, so it was early in the run. Mike in Colorado
  21. If YOU are going to fix it, you need to drop the pan NOW. See what is in the bottom with a magnet, and you know you are going to have to pull the rod and main caps and start looking for scored surfaces. They will tell you where to go from there Best of luck........... Mike in Colorado
  22. I use a small sharp screw driver to knock off the crusty stuff on the cap contacts and Scotch Brite to LIGHTLY clean the rotor blade. I do not sand the center spring on the rotor, as that would wear down the carbon contact in the cap. just wipe it down with a bit of MEK on a paper towel. If you want to get real technical you could use a Dremmel with a buffing wheel and dip it in Brasso. just use a LOW speed on the Dremmel Mike in Colorado
  23. Marty, You are right in that the cross bows are sunk in, and you know that you can't just turn them over. HAHA ! On my '31 Chrysler the top bows don't have much of an arc, but it was redone back in 1980, so who knows. You can search the web and find pictures of the same year, make, and model an possibly see what others have done. If any, I don't suspect there was much of an arch in 1927 models. I believe that came later when wood / fabric tops were more of an "insert" and had a steel perimeter. Mike in Colorado
  24. Take lots of pictures of what you have now, especially what was used to attach the wood. Take the wood to your local lumber store and ask what it is, ash or oak would be my guess. Top covering material is available, or a close modern equivalent. Disassemble carefully, and tag each piece as to location and orientation. Make it a "fun project" and you will be telling stories of how you did it for years to come. Document your progress here, and those who have gone before will help you on your journey. We like pictures............ Mike in Colorado
  25. I went down the mountain once. It was hot, sticky, and they had bugs. Don't think I'll do that again ! But we will go ride our ATV's again this year on new years day. Last year we only did about 60 miles, and barely got the tires wet. But then we are in "banana valley" at only 8500 ft. Mike in colorfull Colorado