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  1. OK, here are more details of what would be ideal: I am only interested in stock vehicles, or ones reasonably close to stock. I would not consider cars modified to have overdrive, period-incorrect brakes, nor a downdraft carburetor if the original was updraft, unless parts were included to go back to the original setup. Likewise, I will not modify any car that I buy, unless it would be to convert a 12V system back to an original 6V system, add a trunk, or something like that. My main interest is to drive it (a lot during the summer), and maybe occasionally bring it to a local car show. I have no desire to enter it in a judged competition. After recently selling a 1929 Standard, I want to upgrade to at least a Master (1927-29), 60-series (1930) or 80/90-series (1931 and up). I would also consider some 60-series models after 1930. Most desired models: sport coupe/country club coupe, convertible coupe, Victoria, close-coupled or brougham sedan, club sedan, or touring/phaeton. Rough price range: $18K - $35K My biggest restriction is that, at least for now, I am limited to considering cars located within roughly 400 miles of Minneapolis, MN. So that will likely limit my options the most. For that reason I am not pinpointing down to a specific year and model. Fortunately there are a lot of Buick models that I like in the 1927-33 year range. Unfortunately the cars currently available that I would be very interested in are located several states away. I can do basic work like general maintenance, electrical work, brakes, carburetor, light body work, etc but I don't have the skills for a big restoration (engine, transmission, etc). So I would prefer a car of at least #3 condition. John
  2. Looking for a good running & driving Buick, but not a restoration project, in the upper midwest (MN, WI, IA, ND, SD, IL, MI). Prefer 1928-1933 but will consider 1927-1938. Master or 60/80/90 series only. Please PM or e-mail me at jpf.saunders@gmail.com Thank you John
  3. I measure bar width at 2". There is a 1&3/4" space between the two bars - see photo John
  4. Bill, my car (29-27) has a 2-bar bumper. Let me know what dimensions you need and I'll go measure them. But I just sold my car, and it will likely leave my garage this week, so today would be best. Otherwise, here are pictures: John
  5. also - how does the heat riser system function as compared to a 1929 - from the 1933 shop manual it sounds a little more automated. But really I am wondering if it is a source of problems/headaches like it is on the 1929, or was that system improved by 1933?
  6. 80 or 90 series is preferred, but I might consider 60 series. And what about a 1933 model 96 and model 91 specifically? Thanks
  7. Looking for a car that is not a restoration project, but it does not have to be perfect either. Most interested in a coupe, Victoria or sport sedan, but will consider all. Only looking for cars currently in a midwestern state (MN, WI, IA, ND, SD, etc). Years of interest include: 1932 or 1933 Buick 60, 80 or 90 series 1928 or 1929 (Master series only) 1928 - 1933 Auburn cabriolet, sport sedan, or phaeton Only running cars in overall good condition without major problems will be considered. I can handle things like electrical work, some carburetor work, minor body or interior work, etc. Car must be mostly stock - not interested in significantly modified cars. PM or email at jpf.saunders@gmail.com Thank you John
  8. For someone who is unfamiliar with the design details of 1932 & 1933 Buicks, can those in-the-know recommend what to watch out for when considering the purchase of one? Is there a component that often fails or breaks easily, is often out of adjustment, or just doesn't perform well? How difficult is it to get replacement parts? I am interested in the 80-90 series cars specifically. As an example, the 1929 model year started using a pot metal fuel "bowl" on the carburetor. It is very easy to break the threaded fitting off of the bowl if you try to tighten the fuel line connecting into it. Also, the heat riser is often a source for leaks and poor engine performance if not blocked off. Finally, the fan hub requires adding oil at a regular rate and a lot of people forget or don't realize that. So these are some of the idiosyncrasies for 1929 Buicks; but what are the ones for 1932 & 1933? Thanks for your help. John
  9. Thanks to all of you for such nice comments and support - there are just a lot of really nice people on this forum! And you are correct - the car has been sold this morning, details pending. John
  10. <See full add with description & more photos in the GM - Buick For Sale forum> Offering for sale at $6800 for car w/o trunk or $7500 for car with trunk. Car is located in NW suburb of Minneapolis, MN John
  11. Wheel for a Metropolitan. $5, local pick up only - NW suburb of Minneapolis, MN (Brooklyn Park). Or I will deliver if less than 15 miles. John
  12. For sale, for a 1930 Buick 40-series car: 1) torque tube + rear wheel assy, minus the 2 axle shafts, $20 2) Two 10-spoke rear wood wheels, $25 each 3) Hub cap, $5 see photos for condition. Located in NW suburb of Minneapolis, MN John
  13. Car has been sold Runs and drives well. Not a show car but a very nice driver. Older restoration (80's?). Interior nice, paint is OK. Speedometer and gas gauge need repair, but parts to fix both are included. Recent additions & improvements (by me) include new oil filter cannister (from Bob's); crank-up front windshield restored; windshield wiper repaired; rear seat footrest added; electrical wiring updated with period-correct wire from Rhode Island Wire; new ammeter; new belt, hoses, spark plugs, distributor cap, coil and plug wires; heat riser re-sleeved and heat riser passages fully blocked off; upgraded to rebuilt 1928 Standard Marvel carburetor from Tony Bult (1928 has brass bowl which avoids problems with brittle 1929 pot metal bowl); rebuilt mechanical fuel pump installed; radiator removed, flushed out, & reinstalled; Buick radiator badge added; gaskets replaced on manifolds, carburetor, exhaust tee & heat riser; fan hub upgraded to the newer oil-less design from Tony Bult. This car also had an aftermarket electric fuel pump installed when I bought it 7 years ago. I replumbed and rewired it to work off a rocker switch when desired, but under normal conditions it is bypassed by a parallel fuel line and is not used. Offering for sale at $6800 for car w/o trunk or $7500 for car with trunk. I built the trunk based on plans from a 1929 magazine article describing how to build your own trunk to fit a model A (or any other car). Trunk deck is my own design. Will remove deck & trunk if not wanted, and put back to original condition with spare tire carrier. Please PM or email with questions. Car is located in NW suburb of Minneapolis, MN. Thanks for looking. John
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