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About jps

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  1. Yes, thank you I did. I should have just gone straight away to Tony Bult - he has helped me many times and again he is able to bail me out. John
  2. OK, thanks Tom. I am looking on ebay and see some of the ones you found but so far they are for older cars (1928 and older). Unfortunately the ignition switch design changed significantly from 1928 to 1929. I'll keep looking. John
  3. I broke one stud off of the switch while re-wiring it (one of the studs to which the wires attach). Now I need a replacement switch assembly with 2 good studs to replace my broken one. This is for a 1929 Standard. Thanks. John
  4. Otto Cycle: It is my understanding that good and normal compression numbers for my engine, which is different than yours, should be 60 - 65 psi, and just as important, all cylinders should be within about 5% of one another. My #3 is too low at 40-45 psi, but I don't think that will really affect starting. It should negatively affect efficiency a little and probably make the engine run a little less smoothly. I plan to leave that cylinder "as is" for now. If you get 60 psi on your engine I think you are good. Tom: The spark color at the plugs is not consistent, although it is blue most of the time on most of the plugs. John
  5. Update: I bought a self-powered timing light and cranked the engine. The timing looks correct. However, the bulb in the timing light only flashes about 1/2 of the time that it should, so I think the voltage to the coil is weak. While checking voltages I found that I am losing almost 1 V right off the bat between the battery and the ignition coil with the ignition switch on and nothing else happening. A lot of the wire in the car looks original and has breaks in the insulation in several spots, so I am re-wiring the complete circuit from the starter to the ignition switch and back to the coil with new wire. I also will check the ignition switch resistance. It looks to me like there isn't enough voltage getting to the coils to reliably fire the plugs. Once the rest of my wire arrives I will finish and see if that takes care of the problem. I probably will rewire a few other circuits too. I am hoping that this has been the main problem all along - the car has been hard to start ever since I bought it in 2014.
  6. Hi Larry - I just verified that when I hand crank the engine I can see all 12 valves move in sequence, so I think the rocker arms must be OK. Very good suggestion to check them, though. I also agree with Morgan's idea to check for an intake manifold leak. That thought crossed my mind earlier but I don't yet have a method to tell if it is leaking.
  7. In my case, I needed to pull the hub off of a spare rear-end assy to get the axle shaft out and use it to replace one of mine that broke. Fortunately I found a 1930 40-series assy that has the same axle shafts as does my 20-series 1929.
  8. Thanks to all so far that have offered suggestions and insight. I did not originally list all of the things I have done recently, so here is a summary: 1) compression on all cylinders is 55-60 psi except #3, which is 40-45 psi 2) Battery is pretty new (2 years old) and I just charged it on Sunday before I tried starting again 3) Spark plus, wires, points, condenser, and distributor cap are all relatively new (3 years or less) with less than 1000 miles on any of them. 4) I checked spark on the main high voltage feeder to the distributor, and also to each individual plug and there was a spark in each case. I am not convinced the spark was great, but it was present. 5) A few times in the last few years when the car doesn't want to start I have checked the plugs after trying to crank for awhile and I have never seen them wet yet. 6) I have tried starting fluid 3 - 4 times lately and have not been successful any of those times. 7) In the last month I have timed the ignition per the service manual twice (fully advance spark control on steering wheel, watch #6 valve action as you crank engine until flywheel is at the 17 degree mark at the view port, ensure rotor is pointing at plug #1, adjust distributor contacts to just barely open) Also, last year I put in a new mechanical fuel pump (the one in the car when I bought it was not connected), switched over to a 1928 carburetor to avoid the problems with pot metal on the '29 bowl, and added in a hard line vibration loop between the pump and carburetor. I also re-wired and re-plumbed the electric fuel pump that the previous owner added so that it would not operate unless I switched it on - it previously was always on when the ignition was on. I try not to use it anymore but have it available as a backup if necessary. The idea about keeping the fuel in the bowl at the right height might be a good place to start - I did have that problem somewhat with the original carburetor a few years ago before replacing it. Fuel is certainly getting into the carb body (because it eventually drips out of the air cleaner after cranking awhile), but since the plugs always seem dry I am thinking that fuel isn't getting pulled up into the cylinders. That seems to agree with the starting fluid not helping because I spray a burst into the air cleaner, so it would still have to get pulled up into the cylinders. If that is the problem, I am not sure what the root cause is, although a few ideas were mentioned in your answers. Thanks to all for your ideas, thoughts, and suggestions. John
  9. For the past month or so I have had no luck starting my engine. I verified I have spark to all 6 cylinders, and just last year I put in a rebuilt 1928 carburetor that was set up and adjusted for me by a 27-28-29 Buick expert. Each time I try to start (probably about 10 times in the past 4-5 weeks) I crank for 6 or 7 times, each crank lasting a few seconds with pauses in between. I have also tried blasts of starting fluid. After 6 or 7 cranks I see fuel dripping out of the air cleaner. However, when I tried this again today (including use of starting fluid) and ended with the same no start, I immediately removed and checked 2 spark plugs and they both were completely dry. Shouldn't they have been at least a little wet after 6-7 cranks with fuel obviously getting to the carburetor? I sniffed each plug and could only get a faint fuel smell on each one - I expected to have more obvious of a fuel smell to them. Thanks John
  10. Yes. I ended up buying a really nice one, which was a shame only because I just needed it for 2 wheels and now I'll never need it again. It adjusts between 2 7/8 to 3 inches diameter, and has 16 teeth per inch.
  11. Pair of rear wheels plus brake drums from 1930 series 40 car. Includes 9 wheel clamps and both tire inserts, and one hub cap that has some dents and one small hole in front. $75 for all plus shipping. I am guessing shipping will be a lot since the wheels are heavy, so will ship to USA or Canada only. Also have a rear-end assy from the same car, minus the 2 axle shafts, that you can have for free if you pick up. Finally, if you also need the front wheels, I do not have them but know where they are, and you could buy them from the owner in Wisconsin. Thanks. John
  12. Thanks Dwight. I do have that manual and see the numbers on p52 - I guess I wasn't sure that the numbers were necessarily arranged in the proper order. Thanks for the clarification - that helps me out a lot. John
  13. I just would like to confirm that cylinder #1 on the engine is the one closest to the firewall (and not the one closest to the radiator) on a 1929 Standard, as referenced in the service manual. I think this has to be true but have not seen anywhere that specifically defines this in the limited literature that I have. Thank you. John
  14. French Lake Auto is in Minnesota, rather than in Wisconsin.
  15. I would like to replace my coil because I have tried everything else to improve the difficult starting on my car, and at this point I feel that the spark must be the culprit. The ignition coil on the car now is Standard model UC-14, and according to Standard's web site that is correct for a 1930 40-series but not for 1929 20-series (I might have thought they would be the same, but that is what the web site says and it doesn't give any real specs on the coil for me to determine that independently). That coil was put in new just before I bought the car by the previous owner's mechanic, but he was a Ford guy and I don't know if he really knew about Buicks or not. At any rate, here is my question: Bob's Automobilia has 2 coils available for 1929's. One appears to be equivalent to the original, but the other is made by Pertronoix and is their "Flame Thrower II" brand. It is advertised as a 45KV, 0.6-ohm coil, which I think is half or less than half of the original coil's impedance. Has anyone tried the Pertronix coil, and have they experienced any problems with it (for example, burning out distributor points or reducing the life of the condenser or other part)? I am desperate to get my car to start better, so I am tempted to try the Pertronix coil, but as a conservative electrical engineer I like to know the potential side effects of changing from the original design. Thank you