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jps

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About jps

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  1. Hi Marty, For 1929, this is the correct jack: Auto Specialties Mfg Co St Joseph, Michigan model = Dreadnaut Twin Lift SJ240 No 27 Patent date = July 20, 1926 All of that info appears on the jack itself I have 2, but only one handle - it is easy to find the jack on ebay but they almost never include the handle. I got lucky and found a set once. I do not think blue is an accurate color (the one in my photo), but the other one has remnants of red and that looks like it could be the original paint. I've used the blue o
  2. Thank you all for the advice and ideas. I will have to think about what I want to try next. I do have another distributor and another generator, so I could swap around some gears and check the automatic advance mechanism. A few weeks ago I took the spare distributor apart, so now I may clean it up and try it. I sent a few PMs
  3. I am having trouble starting. The last time I got it running, the timing mark was all over the place and the engine ran rough. When I put a self-powered timing light on plug #1 while cranking, lately I get 2flashes of the light together instead of just the one, or it may miss a fire. So the spark is erratic . I have replaced every electrical part in the system and the problem persists. I was thinking along the lines of what some of you said regarding the gear and the advance.
  4. What is the normal amount of slop on a distributor shaft? I haven't measured the amount of backlash on the rotor on my 1929, but I am sure there is at least 5-10 degrees, which seems like a lot to me. I have been fighting inconsistent spark for a long time, and am wondering if a worn gear is the problem.
  5. Thanks to all for the info. That is exactly what I wanted to know. John
  6. In the 1929 Detailed Specs booklet on page 33 there is a brief explanation of the Automatic Spark Advance mechanism. All the booklet really says is that the mechanism is located in the distributor cup, and that it automatically advances or retards the spark at different driving speeds. It cuts in at 11 mph and gradually advances the spark up to 15 - 19 degrees at 40 mph. This is in addition to the manual advance that the driver can perform via the steering wheel adjustment. Does anyone know how this works? What is the actual thing that makes this happen? John
  7. Steve, I just re-wired my 29-27 sedan and I bought a refurbished current relay from Old Schoolhouse Restorations (Tony Bult) in Whitewater, WI. He should have one available because I sent my old one back to him so that he could refurbish it for some future customer. My old one was functionally OK, it just was rusty. Tony has a lot of parts for 1927-1930 Buicks. It states in the 1929 Service Manual that the current at which the relay activates is between 30 and 35 Amps. Personally, I think the relay vibrating is better than using a fuse for a couple reasons. First,
  8. Hi Don, I don't have the info you need, but here are 2 good resources where you could get it: Web site www.29buick.ca has a lot of reference data for 1929 Buicks. This site is run by Bill McLaughlin, who also runs the Silver Anniversary Buick (1929) Club. There are a lot of reference pictures and documents under the "photo gallery" tab on the home page, and you can look through them even if you are not a member. Tony Bult is one of maybe two of the best experts in the USA on 1929 Buick automobiles. He restores 1927 - 1929 Buicks in his facility in Wiscons
  9. I am looking for a second wiper arm for my car (I have one and need two). The photos show the size needed - this is from a 1929 Standard, but if you have one from some other year that looks similar I will take it. Thanks. John
  10. Another guy who likely has what you need is Tony Bult. His email address is tonybuick272829@gmail.com. He has a lot of spare parts for 27 - 30 Buicks and specializes in 1929, which is the year carburetor body that you have (10-103). John
  11. Want to buy 1 door wedge (see photo) and several sets of rubber pieces that install in the mating assembly to the wedge (see photo) for 1929. Bob's no longer carries the rubber pieces nor the complete assembly into which they would install. Or if anyone knows the correct Shore durometer value of the rubber pieces, I can buy a flat sheet of material and make my own. Thank you. John
  12. Hi Dave, Thanks for the response. I have the dome light switch, but here is a photo of the wiring diagram in my service manual. It shows a "pillar lamp door switch" wired in parallel with the dome lamp switch. I don't see anything in my car that could be a "pillar lamp door switch", so I am wondering if this is only a feature on certain models (like maybe the Master limousine?) John
  13. The service manual has a wiring diagram that shows a door pillar switch wired in parallel with the dome switch. I have a dome switch but I don't have a door pillar switch - at least, I can't find anything that would fit that description. Is it located on only one door, or is it only installed on Master series cars? I have a standard sedan. Thanks.
  14. Yes, thank you I did. I should have just gone straight away to Tony Bult - he has helped me many times and again he is able to bail me out. John
  15. OK, thanks Tom. I am looking on ebay and see some of the ones you found but so far they are for older cars (1928 and older). Unfortunately the ignition switch design changed significantly from 1928 to 1929. I'll keep looking. John
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