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About jps

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  1. I have a '29 standard, which shares some of the same parts as a '30 series 40 and is otherwise of a similar style design. So far the items that have given me trouble are the pot metal carburetor (very easy to break/crack), the heat riser (most people block it off, but you have to block it off in at least 2 places), and the exhaust manifold - this last one was my fault, though - it is easy to crack the cast iron if you are not careful re-tightening the bolts when you take the manifold off to put in new gaskets, for example. I think the carburetor itself functions OK, but I had enough trouble with the pot metal bowl cracking or leaking that I replaced it with a 1928 brass bowl Buick carb. I have been happy ever since. You may also wish to replace the original venturi block with a new, non-pot metal version that is more durable. Some people like Tony Bult in Wisconsin have made new ones that he sells or installs in all carbs that he rebuilds. Two other things about the engine - when removing the bolts for the manifold, it is a good idea to drain or partially drain the coolant first, because you may find that removing one particular bolt will cause the coolant to flow out of that bolt hole. I asked Tony B. about this, and he says that he has seen this happen on other Buick engines ('26-'29); ie, sometimes the bolt holes were drilled too far and they penetrated the water jacket. The other area where some people have trouble is cold starting - it can take awhile for fuel to get pulled up to the carburetor, and you usually want full or heavy choke when you start. John
  2. Can somebody tell me the correct tpi thread size and overall diameter for a 1930 40-series hub? Also, if someone has a cost-effective hub puller to sell, I may be interested. I just need one to use twice - I know I could order a new custom-made one from George M. in Nebraska, but for this I would be happy with a more basic model. There are various sizes available on e-bay but I don't know the correct dimensions. Thank you. John
  3. Looking for 20" lock rings for wire wheels (5), brake drums - can be from wood wheels (4), and aluminum wheel cover/hub cap for wire wheel (1) for 1929 Buick. Will buy from you, or I have a set of rear 1930 40-series wood wheels w/ hub caps that I could trade to you. Thanks. John
  4. Sorry this took so long, but here are photos from my car of what might be shim stock as Larry suggested. Can you confirm from the pictures that the left side has shim stock (I show both sides for reference):
  5. It looks like the rear passenger-side axle is broken, but I need to do a few more things before I can be sure. I can't work on it this weekend but the following weekend should be when I know for sure. The hub key on the driver's side is mis-shaped also, and the wheel hub has burrs along the keyway, so I will at least need a new key for that side. I can spin the rear wheel by hand in one direction with it jacked up while in gear. And the axle shaft on the passenger side will slide out very easily (it shouldn't do that) but I can't get it all the way out to see where it broke until I can move the car away from the garage wall (tight garage). I also took off the differential cover, but could see no damage. In the process I noticed something odd on only one side of the axle housing, just inside of the brake drum. It looks like someone added an odd-shaped "patch" or cover (for lack of a better term) on the bottom half of the shaft. This probably is unrelated to my problem, and probably was added by the guy that restored the car before I bought it, but it looks weird and I wonder why it is there.
  6. Thank you to all who replied with suggestions. I will check this weekend and update this post with what I find. I appreciate the suggestions. John
  7. My car was running OK until 3 weeks ago when I stopped at a light and put it in neutral. When the light went green, I tried shifting into 1st, but heard a loud "pop" or "bang", and afterwards thr car would not move (it seemed to be stuck in neutral - it could be pushed). I could put the car into any gear but none of them worked. So it was towed home. Yesterday I opened up the transmission cover and could see nothing wrong. All the gears slide as they should and look to be in really nice condition, and I see nothing broken. The clutch feels the same as before, and when I removed the inspection cover on the top just above the transmission I could see the main or end plate moving in/out as I pushed in and released the clutch, but I can't actually see the multi-disk plates behind the end plate via the inspection hole. So I am guessing that the clutch is OK and the transmission is OK. That leaves the universal joint or the point where the engine connects to the clutch. I have a few of the basic manuals but they don't show much detail about how this is all connected or how to diagnose what is wrong. Is there any book or manual, or are there any service bulletins that might help me figure out what to do next? I don't have experience fixing this but would like to try regardless of the difficulty because I can't do anything with the car now except run the engine. I am OK with doing whatever is necessary as long as I know what that is and how to do it. Thanks John
  8. Another guy that can help is Tony Bult in Whitewater, WI. His e-mail is He has a lot of other parts for 1929 Buick's as well, should you need them. However, I just bought a 1928 carb from Tony and installed it in my 1929 116" sedan. I did that on his suggestion to eliminate the pot metal carb bowl that was 1st used in 1929. Pot metal is fragile, brittle, and subject to cracking. 1928 carbs still have a brass bowl and I feel much better about the durability of the carb bowl now. Tony will build one up and adjust it for you, then ship it to you if you would like to go that way. I bought a new fuel pump from his too, and it works well. But there are a few minor mechanical variations on the inlet and outlet ports on the fuel pump (which first was used in Buicks in 1929), so you might need to bend new tubes to connect if the new pump is different from what was originally in your car (that happened to me). John
  9. I am looking for 5 lock rings that would work with wire wheels on a 1929 Buick. I also need at least 24 wheel nuts for the same car. I believe the wheels are 20". Thanks. John
  10. Looking for 5 snap rings for 1929 Buick wire wheels, and at least 24 lock nuts. Even if you have just one or a few to sell, I may be interested. Thank you.
  11. I am hoping to get the fuel system back closer to what it originally was. Currently the mechanical fuel pump is not connected, but there is an electric pump that is wired on whenever the ignition switch is on. I want to re-connect the mechanical pump (I already bought a rebuilt one), add a parallel line to the electric pump with tees on both sides, and make the electric one switchable on/off as needed. It looks like the fuel line from tank to pump is 5/16". It also looks like new brass tubing comes in two common wall thicknesses - .014 and .029". I am thinking of using .029" brass with compression fittings. OK? Or should the line be copper instead of brass? Thank you
  12. We still have snow to melt away, but soon I will start driving once in awhile to work - about 25-30 miles round trip over mostly residential and country roads. I love driving this car and wish my dad was still alive to drive his with me.
  13. I have the normal wood wheels on my 1929 standard. I recently bought a set of 5 wire wheels to upgrade, but what else do I need - drums or hubs or ??? Does anyone have some of this to sell? Thanks.
  14. Last week I tried fitting up the new trunk I just finished. I found an article originally written in 1929 on how to build a trunk for your model A, and it was easy to adapt it for my '29 Buick sedan. I don't have the trunk mounting brackets finished yet, and that is why I did the test fit-up as shown in the attached pictures. So far I think it looks pretty good, and am adding places on the new trunk brackets to allow the original spare tire & holder to mount behind the trunk. I have seen a lot of similar trunks on model A's, so I guess this was a popular article in its day.
  15. I am looking for a decent plater in the Minneapolis-St. Paul area that someone else has used and recommends. I don't need a top-notch job done - my car is a driver and it is gar from perfect - but I bought a rear-seat footrest that should be re-plated to look better. This will probably need to be done in chrome, but in the future I might want to do some nickel plating on other parts, so I am looking for a plater that can do both and doesn't mind taking small jobs. Any recommendations? Thanks. John