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  1. Hi everyone, and thank you for the ideas and questions. My situation is more complex than for what I originally asked, but after about 2 years of working to get the car running again due to several repairs I think that I am back to my original problem that I have always experienced with this car; namely, that I can't get it to start in cool weather (roughly, below 65 degrees). I have been working through other problems, but I believe the one at present is still the original cold start issue. Temperatures here are changing a lot each day - I did get it to start on Saturday when th
  2. I have always had a very difficult time starting my 1929 when the temperature is below about 65 degrees F. Starting fluid has not helped (when sprayed into the air cleaner just before cranking). The car has an updraft carburetor. What suggestions does anyone have to help? Fuel flow to the carb and spark at the plugs are verified to be OK. I don't have as much trouble in warmer weather. Thanks John
  3. I am looking for a new or good condition original/used 16 gallon face plate for a 1929 Standard Buick gas gauge. It has a black background with white gradient markers for full, 3/4, 1/2, 1/4 and reserve levels plus other marks in between these. Thanks John
  4. More great information - thank you for the ideas and the details. I wanted to get started thinking about this beforehand, since I am pretty much set for the winter and will need to sell what I have first since I only have room for 1 car. So I have the opportunity to research my options a bit.
  5. Thanks to both of you for the great feedback - this is exactly the kind of advice I was hoping to get. I appreciate it very much. John
  6. I currently have a 1929 Buick and love the car, but would like to upgrade next summer. I may go for another Buick, but I also have a fascination about Auburn - and as I read more about Auburn & EL Cord, I have settled in on the mid-late 1920's as the target era for cars I might like. However, I don't know many technical details about Auburns of this era, so I am hoping someone could give me a little info to help me decide if buying an Auburn is feasible for me or not. I am thinking maybe an 8-88, 8-95, or 6-cylinder. Some questions I have: 1) How difficult is
  7. Hi Bill, I installed one this year in my 29-27. I had the wood backer board but nothing else. Tony Bult had a complete rebuilt mechanism that he sold me - Tony has a contact in California(?) that builds them up as needed. I am pretty sure that 1931 is similar to 1929 as far as this mechanism goes ... as Tinindian posted, this mechanism is described in the 1926-32 Fisher Body Service Manual. I also believe that at least some of the parts are common to Chevrolet. I took a lot of pictures as I went along, so if they would help, I could email them to you. Jo
  8. A few years ago I cut out the old sleeve out from my 1929 heat riser and my friend machined a new one for me down from a thick-wall oversized-OD pipe because the original pipe OD is of a non-standard size. He sized the sleeve OD so that it would form a thermal fit with the heat riser body. To install it, we put the new sleeve in the freezer to shrink its OD slightly, and the body in hot water to expand its ID slightly, allowing the two pieces to have just enough clearance to slide together. After about a half our, we took the pieces out of their thermal baths and quickly took them to his h
  9. I am looking at a 1932 Buick Reference Manual (pink with blue graphics on the cover) that a guy has for sale. It seems like a fair price ($25) since the condition looks very clean. However, I can't tell if it is a reprint or an original; and the seller isn't sure either. The main thing that worries me is that the first page inside the manual reads "First Edition" at the bottom, which seems like a really odd thing for an original manual to say because that implies Buick already knew they would print a second edition. Does anyone know how to be sure if this is an original or a reprint? Or i
  10. one last clarification: I see 3 or 3.5 inches mercury vacuum during cranking - the engine is not starting.
  11. Also, to possibly correct my earlier post/question: One other question: What cranking speed do I need to achieve to get the engine to start if everything else is OK? It seems like my starter motor is slow. I measured the speed about 2 months ago and now I can't find my results, but I am thinking I saw 150-180 rpm. I still have the same question, but I am thinking that I saw 300-360 cranking rpm earlier this year (forgot that there are 3 ignition pulses per engine rev, not 6. I think there were 50 milliseconds between ignition pulses to a spark plug).
  12. I re-sleeved the heat riser 3-4 years ago with a new tube, so that problem should not exist now.
  13. ok, I just finished getting new vacuum readings with throttle fully closed (I set the idle adjustment to fully closed also) and with the battery just fully charged. I get a peak reading of 3 or 3.5 inches mercury on the gauge. It was about 35 degrees F ambient temp. Is that normal, low, or high? I also tried applying some mastic (playdough-like pliable sealant) around the intake manifold ports where the gasket is located, but I could not get access to two ports on the bottom sides (I couldn't get my fingers in to apply the mastic). So I couldn't seal everything, but
  14. This past summer I have adjusted and checked the timing several times and it is correct now. I use the exact procedure described in the service manual and then use a self-powered timing light to verify that the timing is correct per the mark on the flywheel. I have also used my oscilloscope to look at the disitributor pulses going into the coil during cranking and they all look evenly-spaced and no pulse is missing (ie, 3 pulses per 1 revolution of the engine). As one last check, I place the clamp-on pickup coil from the timing light around the output wire from the ignition coil and see the
  15. Hugh, Yes, I am getting good spark now. I spent most of the summer getting that correct and adjusting the timing. John
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