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Everything posted by jps

  1. I just bought a used Auto-lite manifold heater for my '29 model A, and it has light rust so I would like to blast it and paint it. What was the original color of these when new? I know it is an aftermarket accessory, and I have seen several for sale but every one I see is a different color; I would like to paint it the original color. Thank you John
  2. Hello John, I will call you on Saturday (9/25) John S.
  3. I have a used 1929 Buick generator for sale for $75 plus shipping in the "Buy/Sell" auto parts section of this web site (also see photo below). Otherwise you can contact Tony Bult at tonybuick272829@gmail.com and he may have one as well. John
  4. Here is a photo from the book "Auburn Automobiles 1900-1936 Photo Archive", page 33, that shows this model and mentions the visor that is unique to this model
  5. Helping a friend who is looking for a set of 21" x 6" tires for 1928 Buick wire wheels. Prefer new but will consider good used set. Thanks John
  6. 1931 is the first year for the straight 8 engine (1930 was straight 6) and Synchromesh transmission (improved transmission) on the larger-series cars. The 90-series cars are the top of the line for Buick in 1931. I believe they introduced the "Wizard control" that year as well, and from what I have heard, that feature is difficult to get working correctly and most people don't use it. I also believe the larger series 1931 cars had dual carburetors and they may be more difficult to adjust if they are not already working correctly. 1931 was the last year for external visors over the windshield, and either 1931 or 32 was the last year for wood spoked wheels. All 1930's Buicks are considered full classics by the CCCA. I would suggest that you check how the doors open and close - if they sag or bind at all, the wood may need replacing and that is both expensive and difficult to do. Also check anything made of pot metal (example - carburetor bowl) and verify that there aren't any cracks or leaks ... the pot metal used in these cars is brittle. There are several other Buick guys here that should be able to help a lot more if you need it. John
  7. Prices as listed, shipping extra (local pickup or <= 20 mile delivery is free). Will give discount for multi-part purchase. Only a few sample pictures shown - more available upon request. All parts located in suburban Minneapolis, MN
  8. Contact Tony Bult, at tonybuick272829@gmail.com. I guarantee he knows how much curve to put into the plates, and/or who can do it for you. He has restored dozens of 28-29 Buicks. John
  9. OK, finally I found something that answers the question clearly, and I was wrong. The driving plates are NOT flat and they DO have a wave to them - described here and shown pretty clearly in the photo below (notice the non-uniform gap between the driving and driven plates, and the text below the photo) from the 1929 Buick Detailed Specs book, page 12: John
  10. Here is a link to an older forum post for a 1926 Buick clutch, which in turn has another link to more clutch info. This old post shows the mid-late 20's Buick linings to be flat, and the outer edges to have a "wave" pattern. Otherwise I can get the definitive answer in about 10 days when I go to visit a guy that has a rebuilt Master 1929 clutch assy sitting in his basement - I can examine it and take photos to verify. John
  11. I've been watching that black club sedan ever since it first went on sale about 2 years ago. I like the brown color better, but either way I think the '33s (and '28s) have the best styling of any year Buick. If I could just convince my wife that we need a 2nd old car , and if my tiny garage was bigger ...
  12. I think that "radial wave" simply refers to the "lobes" or "teeth" that exist on the periphery of each disc plate. They are called "radial" because they are like rays originating from the center of each plate every few degrees. However, the disc plate facings themselves are flat, as it says here in the manual: The "wave" exists only at the edge where each of these spaced rays end - sort of like on a U.S. quarter coin that has small ridges on the edge - and not on the facings themselves. John
  13. Here is a photo of what I have - I've only had a model A for 1 month so am not sure on all the variations. Please let me know if your heater would fit: Thank you John
  14. The carb body is always cast iron but the carb bowl is pot metal in your picture. That is a 1928 master engine because it has a vacuum tank which was only used through 1928, and the carb bowl in 1928 was either brass (early models) or pot metal (later models). The water inlet pipe above the engine head was used on Master engines. John
  15. You may already have this info, but if not, here are the 2 pages from the 1929 shop manual on the clutch: John
  16. If you still have it for sale, does it simply bolt onto the exhaust manifold, and what would be the shipping cost to Minneapolis, MN, cheapest way? John
  17. OK, here are more details of what would be ideal: I am only interested in stock vehicles, or ones reasonably close to stock. I would not consider cars modified to have overdrive, period-incorrect brakes, nor a downdraft carburetor if the original was updraft, unless parts were included to go back to the original setup. Likewise, I will not modify any car that I buy, unless it would be to convert a 12V system back to an original 6V system, add a trunk, or something like that. My main interest is to drive it (a lot during the summer), and maybe occasionally bring it to a local car show. I have no desire to enter it in a judged competition. After recently selling a 1929 Standard, I want to upgrade to at least a Master (1927-29), 60-series (1930) or 80/90-series (1931 and up). I would also consider some 60-series models after 1930. Most desired models: sport coupe/country club coupe, convertible coupe, Victoria, close-coupled or brougham sedan, club sedan, or touring/phaeton. Rough price range: $18K - $35K My biggest restriction is that, at least for now, I am limited to considering cars located within roughly 400 miles of Minneapolis, MN. So that will likely limit my options the most. For that reason I am not pinpointing down to a specific year and model. Fortunately there are a lot of Buick models that I like in the 1927-33 year range. Unfortunately the cars currently available that I would be very interested in are located several states away. I can do basic work like general maintenance, electrical work, brakes, carburetor, light body work, etc but I don't have the skills for a big restoration (engine, transmission, etc). So I would prefer a car of at least #3 condition. John
  18. Looking for a good running & driving Buick, but not a restoration project, in the upper midwest (MN, WI, IA, ND, SD, IL, MI). Prefer 1928-1933 but will consider 1927-1938. Master or 60/80/90 series only. Please PM or e-mail me at jpf.saunders@gmail.com Thank you John
  19. I measure bar width at 2". There is a 1&3/4" space between the two bars - see photo John
  20. Bill, my car (29-27) has a 2-bar bumper. Let me know what dimensions you need and I'll go measure them. But I just sold my car, and it will likely leave my garage this week, so today would be best. Otherwise, here are pictures: John
  21. also - how does the heat riser system function as compared to a 1929 - from the 1933 shop manual it sounds a little more automated. But really I am wondering if it is a source of problems/headaches like it is on the 1929, or was that system improved by 1933?
  22. 80 or 90 series is preferred, but I might consider 60 series. And what about a 1933 model 96 and model 91 specifically? Thanks
  23. Looking for a car that is not a restoration project, but it does not have to be perfect either. Most interested in a coupe, Victoria or sport sedan, but will consider all. Only looking for cars currently in a midwestern state (MN, WI, IA, ND, SD, etc). Years of interest include: 1932 or 1933 Buick 60, 80 or 90 series 1928 or 1929 (Master series only) 1928 - 1933 Auburn cabriolet, sport sedan, or phaeton Only running cars in overall good condition without major problems will be considered. I can handle things like electrical work, some carburetor work, minor body or interior work, etc. Car must be mostly stock - not interested in significantly modified cars. PM or email at jpf.saunders@gmail.com Thank you John
  24. For someone who is unfamiliar with the design details of 1932 & 1933 Buicks, can those in-the-know recommend what to watch out for when considering the purchase of one? Is there a component that often fails or breaks easily, is often out of adjustment, or just doesn't perform well? How difficult is it to get replacement parts? I am interested in the 80-90 series cars specifically. As an example, the 1929 model year started using a pot metal fuel "bowl" on the carburetor. It is very easy to break the threaded fitting off of the bowl if you try to tighten the fuel line connecting into it. Also, the heat riser is often a source for leaks and poor engine performance if not blocked off. Finally, the fan hub requires adding oil at a regular rate and a lot of people forget or don't realize that. So these are some of the idiosyncrasies for 1929 Buicks; but what are the ones for 1932 & 1933? Thanks for your help. John
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